Bloody Chimney** HVS 4c
55m, 3 pitches. A totally traditional experience, and the line on the topo indicates the position of the cleft rather than the position you'll be in deep inside this chimney. Start at the base of the bile-inducing cleft.
1) 4c, 22m. A pitch whose grade is very much affected by your ability to thrutch, and the number of pies you have eaten recently. Move up to the large block and follow the wide crack until it is possible, if not all that appealing, to enter and squirm your way upwards - holds eventually appear. Belay above the narrow section.
2) 4b, 18m. Work your way into the back of the widening chimney. Back-and-foot upwards past a flake-crack, moving rightwards under the chockstone to emerge mole-like from your caving experience.
3) 4c, 15m. Climb the crack behind the belay, before easier ground leads to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Classic Chimney - England and Wales.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 59 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Like being cuddled by Charlie Bronson.
Samuel Wainwright - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Rafe Osborne

UncleMephisto - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Sam Wainwright

K Dawg - AltLd O/S - 02/Nov/14 with Kit

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/14

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Phil .N

P2&3. From the sublime to the ridiculous. Finished Atlantis/etc and headed over to this "bloody chimney". Fully deserving of 3* just for how much me and my partner laughed at each other. NWR route description sums it up nicely - at least you know what you're letting yourself in for!
BTphonehome - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Tony

Led pitch 1. Fun route.
tmawer - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Bram

Underestimated the entry to the chimney. Otherwise a great solo.
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Will Hardy

Al Evans - 2014 with Jim Moran

Seymore Butt - 2014

Hardest route I did today
Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 29/May/13 with Calum Musket

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/13 with Tom Ripley

In the rain after figuring that UFO was definitely wet ;-) abbed off after 2nd pitch and rope got stuck so Helena climbed 1st pitch again. Bit epic and very wet...
sonnenstern - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/12 with Helena

CragDog - AltLd - 30/Jun/12

Lead P1,3. a bit of a fight at times, got genuinely stuck and had to squirm back down to re-rack at one point!
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 2012

Got to Gogarth in really high winds, and waves absolutely smashing into the bottom of Main Cliff. Led p1 and p3. Pitch 1 has some squirmy manoeuvres. Got totally pissed on, on p3 which got quite scary actually! Soft for HVS but probably not VS? Brilliant route...
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/11 with Matt "Beast", Pete, Bubbles

cherad - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with colin crockart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

Sgt. Vest - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/11 with Andy Davies

A fine addition to the Upper Tier HVS's. Low in the grade if you like squirming
david morse - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/11 with ripley

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

thecurlyone - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Alex

Hidden - 2010

sgl - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/09 with helena

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/09

appropriately named. A real stuggle. I clearly need practice at squeeze chimneys.
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with derick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/09

Rob Greenwood - UKC - 2009 with Holly Mumford

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/08

centurion05 - 24/Jul/08

tigertiger - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Fun 1st pitch!
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - 2008

the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/07 with james marjot

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 13/May/07 with Patrick Hutchison

Chesh - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/05 with ScotsPaul

a_radiohead_fan - 2004

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Dec/91

babymoac - 1981 with MTW & Paul R

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Oct/79

mikej - Lead - 24/Mar/78 with Mike Mason

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1978 with Chris Newton

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1976 with .?, Andy Dunhill, FMC

Mark Kemball - Lead - 06/Dec/75 with Naiomi Beckett

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 08/Feb/75

mikej - AltLd - 08/Nov/69 with Pete Kokolaar

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 11/Feb/68 with Dennis Gray

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
BareBears, humptydumpty, Simon Cahill, Ewan Russell

Voting
Total votes cast 61
hard E10 of 21
E10 of 21
easy E11 of 21
hard HVS1 of 21
HVS1 of 21
easy HVS14 of 21
hard VS3 of 21
VS1 of 21
easy VS0 of 21
hard 5a3 of 21
5a1 of 21
easy 5a1 of 21
hard 4c13 of 21
4c3 of 21
easy 4c0 of 21
hard 4b0 of 21
4b0 of 21
easy 4b0 of 21
3 Stars13 of 19
2 Stars5 of 19
1 Star1 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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