Britomartis*** HVS 4c
[wonky helmet but oh well, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
An excellent route with two contrasting pitches: one steep and burly, the other more balancy and delicate. Start by abseiling from the far right-hand end of the promontory (looking out) to a square-cut ledge that is usually a good distance above the swell. Make a belay that overlooks the North Stack wall.
1) 4c, 35m. From the belay, move down and left to gain a steep but juggy flake/crack-line. Storm up this on ample holds to reach a small stance on rotten pegs and small wires.
2) 4c, 20m. Step up and right, pulling over a bulge to reach a ledge. Follow the good footholds round to the right to finish up an easy groove. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: wonky helmet but oh well © Nicole Almond
View all 15 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 523 logbooks, and on 97 wishlists.

Michael Morrell - AltLd - 30/Sep/15

First sea cliff climb! Brilliant route
Woodmouse - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Matthew chinner

Paul lead p1
Bryan M - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Paul Clarkson

papashango - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/15 with Nat

Gareth T - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/15 with Adrew Peterken

Lead P1 - absolutely brilliant pitch.
AndrewP - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/15 with Gareth Thomas

bridget143 - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/15 with Becca

belay bunny turned bad - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/15 with Bridget

I led the first pitch from the usual ledge not long after high tide, which meant a wet traverse. I did this years ago, but didn't remember it which meant I set up belay in the wrong place, before spotting the large ledge. Hint: there is an obvious niche in the crack, it's not that - look 4/5m above it! Will led through to the real P1 belay and the Paul led P2 (not much pro!) to a rope drag & wind blown (but cracking) finish. Brilliant. Easy for the grade.
ebf - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/15 with Will Poulter, Paul Stephenson

joermann - Lead - 15/Aug/15

jamesturnbull - 11/Aug/15 with John Crook

D.Russell - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/15 with Ally

Ally Baba - 2nd - 11/Aug/15 with dougie

P1. Crap rope work at the bottom.
Curly Rich - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/15 with gmc

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/15 with The Wald

Super awesome first Gogarth experience! second pitch with little gear but easy climbing :)
renetemple - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/15 with John Orr

MFB - AltLd - 14/Jun/15 with MB

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 07/Jun/15

kelly_426 - AltLd - 30/May/15 with Tom Nichols, Sasha Doyle

GStone - 2nd O/S - 24/May/15 with Steve Senior, Marcus Harvey

guy757 - 23/May/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/15

Second pitch.
RyanOsborne - AltLd - 16/May/15 with Matt Beals

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/May/15

First pitch. Took ages to commit to the start because the sea was so high. Sat on the dark, dank ledge for about an hour although it was cool to watch all the seals.
Matt77 - AltLd O/S - 16/May/15 with Ryan Osborne

Davesmith1981 - Lead - 01/May/15

Lead in one long pitch - horrendous rope drag but better than squeezing three on the belay. Fantastic route, lovely exposure and just enough gear.
ianstevens - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/15

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/15

Rpt, lead p2
jezb1 - AltLd - 14/Mar/15

Hidden - 2015

jacob shieldhouse hadley - 2015

Tim Sparrow - 2015

DubyaJamesDubya - 2015

dhdaveuk - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Leo

foostu4 - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/14

Duncan Campbell - 2nd - 06/Sep/14 with Bubbles

joeflan - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/14

Mike Hood - AltLd - 31/Aug/14 with Alex

Led first pitch
Alex Munnery - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Mike Hood

It rained, it was really wet - unfortunately not a lot of fun.
leeds_belle - AltLd dog - 23/Aug/14 with Will

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14

Tamsin Gay Leading, Me and Will Seconding.
Denry - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/14 with Tamsin Gay, Will lloyd

Awesome climb, jugfest on P1 and a little bolder and balencey on P2 (I led pitch P1)
Kate Edhouse - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Emily Bridger

Great first pitch - really juggy! Crap last pitch.
erbridger - AltLd - 23/Jul/14 with Kate Edhouse

Great climbing: an exciting initial traverse leading to steep jug pulling. P2 very different: balancy and quite bold.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/14 with Dale

JenRoberts - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Ollie

P2 Jug city
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Ben

Ben Briggs - AltLd O/S - Jul/14 with Abs

really nice climb, jugalicious ;)
Josiemc - Lead O/S - Jul/14 with Mo Barclay

climbtim - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14

Fantastic first pitch, Jug pulling in an amazing position.
David Stevens - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Keith

Keith Swainson - AltLd - 29/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jun/14

Justin T - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Nick B

Amazing. I got pitch one. Serious route. Sara FAB on second pitch
bantamdave - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Sara

duncandarnell - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14

misterb - AltLd O/S - Jun/14 with justin

mr mills - Lead rpt - 30/May/14 with alun hughes

Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 30/May/14 with Kyle Dumka, Tom Murrell

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 26/May/14 with Mark Grist

super intimidating when you have to go around that corner, but the actual climb is a breeze and amazing!
rbharries - AltLd O/S - 05/May/14 with owain williams

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14 with Ian

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/14

previously lead first pitch so nice to lead second. Ed's first gogarth route. would be vs anywhere else - jugs galore.
jmills94 - AltLd rpt - 19/Apr/14 with ed

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

I used the flake at the top of P1 to belay from. 2 cams and a sling.
eburki1 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14

Martin Haworth - AltLd - 18/Apr/14 with Chris Gooder

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/14

Ows - AltLd - Apr/14

fletch540 - AltLd O/S - Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/14

Lead 1st pitch, seconded 2nd pitch.
RosePearson - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/14 with Daniel Zaing

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Si - 2014

mike mo - 2014

IanGilbertJones - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

mileshill540 - AltLd - 2014

Led P1, damp at first but the holds are so good you won't care: a classic pitch. Belay pegs are pants, and should be removed. Belay on wires in the crack above the pegs, plus wires to either side of the ledge.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Megan Beaumont

duncandarnell - AltLd rpt - 13/Sep/13

Led P2. I made Richard started with the first part of Vend-t (whats that name about ?), then traveresing across for 3m into the mega Britomartis flake. At 5b this was not what I was looking for straight off the bat, but we had no option as the tide / sea state made the standard initial downclimb less then attractive. Actually this was fine and got us warmed up fast ! No problems after that. Good stuff.
Jules Lane - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/13 with Mynydd Richard W

led second pitch.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Tony Holdsworth

Lead the main pitch. Perfect weather, perfect place.
Tony Holdsworth - AltLd rpt - 05/Sep/13 with Andy Sloan

Brill. Led pitch 2
David_Gledson - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Alan

Brilliant 1st pitch. Led the (scary) 2nd pitch - where did all the holds and gear go?
erica - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with John

Low tide start - great route
John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Erica

Nearly joined the grey seals, waves were a little close to the belay for comfort!
thomaspomfrett - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Pat Brien

FFinished up toiler on the sea
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with EJ

Hidden - 03/Aug/13

Fantastic route on good rock and gear, with great views. Lead P1.
kyaizawa - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/13 with Luke Cullum

Led P2. Mantel above the belay is quite awkward, traverse is steady but could only find a single RP2 placement
lcullum7 - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/13 with Ky Aizawa

Mr Wild - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13

Lead P1. Excellent climbing!
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Jonny Hawkins

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/13

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Darren McMaster

Really fun. Start was greasy and had waves crashing at feet which made it much more exciting and then cool moves above that. I led P1 and Dougie finished up Toiler on the Sea.
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Tom Phillips - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/13 with leo

newtonmore - 25/Jun/13

Mini epic. Abseiled down to find the tide was completely in with waves crashing into the traverse. Had to wait an hour on the ledge for it to go down slightly, and it was still dodgy! Holds were all greasy for the first pitch.
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/13 with Phil

greglad - 09/Jun/13

Led second pitch this time.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Ben Thynne

pitch 2 lead
piersnewton - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Olly Roberts

Pitch 1
ollyroberts - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Piers Newton

As single pitch. 50m rope ok.
John Nuttall - Lead - 06/Jun/13 with Andy H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Johnmuff - AltLd - Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd - 21/May/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/May/13

Tim Rodgers - 2nd - 04/May/13 with Mike Lea

RD P1 Couldn't get no. 3 nut out at the belay ledge. Didn't have a hex or rock to use as a mallet. Hope someone else succeeds - wouldn't mind the nut back either!
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 03/May/13 with Fiona

Fiona McFarlane - AltLd O/S - May/13 with Robert Dufton

ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Jillybean - AltLd - 27/Apr/13 with Brad

alp79 - 2nd - 27/Apr/13 with Jonny Ashton

JonesJ - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/13

Second pitch traverse very little protection. Second belay desperate for gear with 2 rusty bolts and a couple of wires!
Johnywilks - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13

Jules 210681 - 2nd - 20/Mar/13 with glenn bloomer

Brilliant route, huge holds but got pumped fiddling gear in, rested and then cracked on. Belay pegs are nearly rusted through so linked up 5 little pieces.
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/13 with George Best, Julia Bloomer

Good route mega rock, good first pitch with a contrasting second pitch. Gogarth for me
herman0055 - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/13 with Glen bloomer

gingergeorge - AltLd - 20/Mar/13 with Glen Bloomer

Hidden - 11/Jan/13

Have done before but lead the quality P1 this time after backing off Spider Wall due to the traverse being v wet and slimey. Great route.
jezb1 - AltLd - 11/Jan/13

Nick Biven - 2013

jimxxx - 2013

tim20 - 2013

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Claire Tetley

captain - 2013

first time on gogarth, cant wait to go back. lead second pitch
HAJ Francis - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/12

awesome route. mike got swallowed by a wave i the belay ledge so I got first pitch. loads of gear on first pitch though the belay required some creativity
danimal88 - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Mike Met office

2nd pitch
Hardcore Pat - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Chris Vanderz

guy757 - AltLd - 18/Aug/12 with Vic

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12

Led P1. Juggy heaven! Jack led P2 of Toiler on the Sea
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Jack S

2 completely different pitches, climbed at low tide so could start at the base, it always feels an adventure at Gogarth!
Andrew Lodge - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Tony, Steve

Tony Ryland - AltLd - 18/Aug/12 with steveshaking

1st pitch only, followed Nik on 2nd pitch of Toiler
Rachel Somerville - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Nik

First pitch only.
Nik Jennings - 2nd - 10/Aug/12 with Rachel

HB1 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with LS

1st pitch
kdalzell - 2nd - 07/Aug/12 with Konrad Doyle, Liam Fleming

lead pitch 1, which was brilliant :) expoesed belay, shame about P2, which was dull.
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/12 with Liam Ingram

Using every last moment of daylight. 1st pitch is ludicrously awesome!
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/12 with Jamie Sparkes

bwestwood - Lead - 05/Aug/12 with Ben Smedley

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/12

Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Sam

Led P1 then Rich led P2 of toiler of the sea
mick1jones - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Rich Rogers

Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Ruth

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/12

mild dampness
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/12

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Chris James

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/12

duncandarnell - Lead O/S - Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12

Alex.M-M. - Lead rpt - 12/May/12 with dale 42

dale 42 - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12

Bit windy! Word of advice, belay at the rusty peg ledge not that enticing large ledge higher up...
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/12 with James Williamson

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Apr/12

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 26/Mar/12 with Sam

Jugtastic! Better climbing than Dream?
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12

Led P1, thought it looked less steep than it was but if I ignore the pump, seeing my quickdraw tumble into the sea and one crumbled handhold, then it was mighty joyous climbing. Andy led P2 of Toiler on the sea as an interesting exit route. Bit bold!
Sardien - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/12 with Andy Scott

The thought of going to Gogarth makes me nervous! Tide had just started to ebb and our landing pad was looking very dry. Ian led P1, which was good value as you skim across the sea before getting established on the rising crack. Lead P2. Top notch route!
Mountain Llama - AltLd - 12/Mar/12 with Ian M

Brilliant first pitch! Guidebook went for a swim unfortunately though.
markfairbank - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/12 with Paul Sheehan

steve_hoey - AltLd - 10/Mar/12 with Matt Guy

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Owen_P - 2012

Brilliant route. Lead p2, position on p1 is great.
tompilgrem - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with Dad

Led P1-found initial wet traverse the crux-lovely slanting crack that followed was fantastic.Worth 4 stars !
bobpilgrem - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with Bob/Tom

fizzychewitt - AltLd - 30/Sep/11 with Jayne

Nice. Not three stars though compared to those on the main slab.
Daniel Heath - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11

Lead first pitch
Matt Cooke - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Tom Jagger

Gogarth experience - wave splattered, traverse timed to be between the waves and just amazing!
Timo Austino - AltLd - 28/Aug/11 with Colon

Hidden - 28/Aug/11

hedgehog77 - 2nd - 09/Aug/11 with rob brown

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/11

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 02/Aug/11 with Dave

mary - 2nd - 01/Aug/11 with Dale Gautrey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11

Quite good repetative jug pulling, nowt special to warrant 3 stars I didn't think.
willoates - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Polish Nicky, Iona

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11

scary start with the water splashing at you, and the worry of being drowned! however was a good climb once we came onto dry rock! started to trust my feet again! it was a shame we were in the shade but was still a great view whilst climbing. :)
Nicole Almond - 2nd - 26/Jul/11 with Dad

hot and sunny
Dave Almond - Lead - 26/Jul/11 with Nicole Almond

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with NM

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 10/Jul/11 with Tanya Milner

great first pitch, only problem was working out which of the thousands of jugs to use!! so much so, we only put six bits of gear in the whole route!
chrisdavies - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with simon moore

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/11

Alex.M-M. - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with steve

Luis SD - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

led second (traverse) pitch. not that great, no stars, no nice moves, just big jugs and no useful footholds.
Steeve - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11

myoung - AltLd - 30/May/11

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 29/May/11

Started from the low ledge. Chris led P1, I led P2
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 29/May/11 with Chris Allan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/May/11

tomhull - AltLd O/S - 14/May/11 with matt harris

Led 2nd pitch. Nice location!
Jonas Paulsson - AltLd O/S - 12/May/11 with Andi Turner

International Meet. Awesome route, jug fest. A wild sea makes the route even more memorable. First twelve feet gopping wet, but holds were plenty big enough.
andi turner - AltLd - 12/May/11 with Jonas from Sweden

haydng - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Rob

massive jug fest although very steep first pitch, followed by a very easy second slightly broken, finishing pitch.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with John

scarletlaydy - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Richard Yorke

Started out on Vend-T due to high tide. Choughs, ravens, seals plus lots of spume made for an atmospheric Gogarth experience. Awesome :)
sophiecb - 2nd - 12/Apr/11 with Neil

adi bryant - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Lee

Second pitch. Hand so cold on first pitch could not feel anything.
chrism225 - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Sheffield Polly

Hanski - 2nd - 23/Mar/11 with Simon Kimber

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Hannah Hunt

Couldn't find Ollie Henson anywhere here either..?
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Not Ollie Henson, Max

Very Fun route. Mr Henson?
maxamusdecamus - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Exited left from top of first pitch, across spider wall, or toiler on the sea, good fun.
gd303uk - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11 with John Rogers

Rory Shaw - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

tuftynick - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Needs a new peg (Lost Arrow?) on the belay ledge top of pitch 1
zukator - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Ben Smedley

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/10

Chris M - Lead - 11/Sep/10 with Tommy B

Sankey - AltLd - 04/Sep/10 with Luke

Hidden - 31/Aug/10

clive-greenwood - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Anna

mr mills - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Gareth

Pitch 1
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10

Led P1, better than any pitch on Dream.
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10

Mark P1, Me P2, Stunning first pitch (inc. hanging belay 10ft above the rising tide), 2nd pitch strange line, awkward, but worth it for the first pitch
Sam1991 - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Mark

healeyduk - AltLd - 02/Aug/10

Dunx - AltLd O/S - Aug/10 with Joe M

Hidden - Aug/10

Mark led pitch 1, I led pitch 2.
Fat Tim - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Mark kauntz

Very atmospheric route due to angle & length of p1. Was a bit complacent at first. At around 50 feet up my foot slipped & I realized two things 1)I faced a 40 foot fall onto one small piece of gear that I was 100% happy with with. 2)The route was actually pretty steep & pump out could be an option. I paid a lot more attention after that!! I lead both pitches & we had a nighmare swapping over at the stance. P2 is crap.
leon - Lead - 21/Jul/10 with Andy Bell

3 Names - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/10 with Sumee Holloway

1st pitch.. jugfest
wolf.leeb - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10 with nic

Moondance - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Paul B

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Jack Turner

Led 2nd pitch. First pitch is brilliant jug pulling but second pitch is pretty poor.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Katy Vose

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10

HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Dave Gleave

London Luke - AltLd O/S - Jun/10 with Dan

Lead p2. P1 very meaty. P2 more delicate. Best route I've done in a long time.
jezb1 - AltLd - 30/May/10

wirralclimber1984 - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with danny, james

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/10

Lead P1. Epic jugfest, massively exciting!!!!
Hardonicus - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Chris Surfleet

Lead P2, wicked :)
willworkforfoodjnr - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Haydn Martin

Hidden - AltLd - 11/May/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

katyvose1 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2010 with Claire

Diggler - 2nd - 11/Oct/09 with stemill

stemill - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/09

Interesting...abbed to the ledge at high tide, found we had to wait at least 2 hours before we could make the traverse in to the start of the route. Al dropped my brand new guide in the sea and later we were unable to retrieve a jammed ab rope. Having said all that the route itself was real star quality, enjoyed every bit of it.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Alan Smith

Approx date, give or take a day or 2. Paul lead P1, I lead p2
eduardo - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Paul Hennelly

troutbeck - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/09 with A.M.

couldnt find spider wall
david morse - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/09 with mikey R

melonmike - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Dave Morse

Shoe testing
smallerrich - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Rich Ball

idmadden - 2nd - Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jul/09

P2. Thugfest lower down and a bit more delicate at the top.
Dave Foster - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/Jul/09

Awesome route made more exciting by the traverse being soaking wet and washed by waves every couple of minutes!
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Andy Hobson

JEP - Lead - 05/Jul/09 with Julie Cunningham

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/09

Andrew1 - Lead - 01/Jul/09 with Juliet Parker Smith

led 2nd pitch
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Roger Cruse - AltLd rpt - 20/Jun/09 with Kris

done before. Sean led first pitch.
Ed Booth - AltLd - 15/Jun/09 with Sean Grady

sanjeetm - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with pete87abs

pete87abs - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with Sanj

dj_brigham05 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with Rich Clarke

jugfest as described
rclarke - AltLd - 15/Jun/09 with Dave Brigham

Led 2nd pitch, scrappy in comparison to first.
John Roe - AltLd - 03/Jun/09 with Iain (Jocky) Marr

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/09

grady - Lead O/S - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/09

Em66 - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Mat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09

AJ007 - AltLd - 23/May/09 with Michael P

Hidden - Lead - May/09

Simon Holden (LCandCC) - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/09 with Pete Nugent

Led 2nd pitch.
Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/09 with Chunk

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/09

ilikemonkys - AltLd - 26/Apr/09 with Carrie

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with helen gibson

Helen Gibson - AltLd - 26/Apr/09 with dan

In one pitch!
Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/09

Paulww - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Ryan

hands in pockets stuff
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with paul

P1 only. Finished up Spider's Wall P2
Hjort - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Hilary Theaker

finishing up spiders wall, all in one pitch
hils theaker - 2nd - 22/Feb/09 with Toby

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

windy100 - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/08

Lead first pitch,pumpier than I remember it but cracking climb.
ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 13/Oct/08 with Steve Joynson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/08

RB1 - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/08 with carlene hill

Carly - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/08 with Richard

Had to miss out traverse at the start of P1 because it was dripping wet.
Calder - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/08

our escape route when we got trapped on the one side of the zawn tring to get to the dream. Good pumpy route.
Dale - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with dave

dicky79 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Nicola

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/08 with Clare

1st pitch, soaking for first 10m. Great.
danm - AltLd - Jun/08

First 30ft or so really uncomfortable and scary because, being tidal, it was damp and salty. But then come the jugs! Great, sharp, positive holds big enough to wrap your elbow round. Should have taken more quickdraws because the first pitch is pretty long and used loads of gear. Second pitch pleant and airy.
jimsim55 - AltLd O/S - 28/May/08 with Andy Kitchen

paddygoodwin - AltLd O/S - 25/May/08 with Steve

stevepotter - AltLd - 25/May/08 with paddygoodwin

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/May/08

Tom Eagle - AltLd - 19/May/08 with skygod78

duzinga - 2nd O/S - 08/May/08 with Guido and Chuck

Hidden - Lead - 08/May/08

RCrockford - 2nd - 05/May/08 with Andy G

Luke Brooks - AltLd - May/08

Matt Vigg - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Climbed after an open day at Bangor Uni.Followed the guide book advice and abseiled down to the ledge and left the rope hanging.Rob led off onto very wet rock and managed to get into the groove.He then got really pumped laybacking and fixing gear and seemed to take ages(we`d left it late in the afternoon and thought we could just about make it before dark) and I could see the sun setting rapidly! Ended up me leading the top pitch in the dark with head torch,and Rob following by touch alone as his torch was in his bag!!! Tougher climb than anticipated.
mike bridges - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Robert Bridges

Rampikino - AltLd - 25/Aug/07 with Mark Hills

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Paul Sambrooks

scary to get started.
Tobias at Home - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07 with Mun

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - AltLd - 29/Jul/07 with Adam Booth

givemetea - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/07 with Hannah Heywood

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/07

givemetea - AltLd O/S - 27/May/07 with Ann Chong

John Kettle - 29/Apr/07

ewen - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with the kettle

tumbling wizard - Lead - Apr/07

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Apr/07 with Kate Simmonds

timmy-ts - 2007

mux - 2007

ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 03/Sep/06 with Phil Taggart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/06

Bella - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with Chris

Stig - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

sammoore - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Richard Hirst

Will1 - Jul/06 with Mike

Very tense to start - awkward traverse, wet holds, some big rollers. But once onto the big holds - wahay!!!
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 25/Jun/06 with Simon Shaw

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/06

lead p2
colin milton - AltLd - 29/Apr/06 with ian dunbar

beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2006 with Miles Grout

jim robertson - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Mark Reeves - 2006

Hidden - 2006

mikelaing - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Ben Wolstenholme - 2006 with John Roberts (JR)

jamiev - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/05 with stephen pritchard

david morse - AltLd - Sep/05 with rampant

datoon - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/05 with RT

Dave Reeve - Lead - Aug/05 with Clare Pastorius

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - 20/Jun/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/05

did the brilliant first pitch. Date approx.
Topsy Turvy - AltLd O/S - Jun/05 with Rob Sykes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

Peter Smith - AltLd - 2005 with Mick Leather

marcoleptic - Lead - 2005 with Mel, Pete

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/04

leerybunny - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with Matt Thompson

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/04

Brilliant route.
Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/04 with Debbie Wilkinson

Laramadness - AltLd O/S - 15/May/04

Terry 1st pitch 5a, Me 2nd pitch 4c
Mark A Humphries - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/04 with Terry Robinson

MazElden - 07/Apr/04

dicky79 - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Mike Bottomley

Pete Graham - AltLd - 2004 with Rick Graham

red1200 - 2004

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2004 with john d

Hidden - 2004

VPJB - 2004

spidey - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/03 with irish si

ian caton - Lead O/S - Sep/03 with Matt

Urgles - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Dave

Found the first moves of the ledge hard
Robbie H - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/03 with Mark Harrison

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/03

Jon Pilling - 2nd O/S - Jun/03 with Ben Hardy

Hidden - Jun/03

davebrox - AltLd - Jun/03 with nikki and james

One of my first experiences on rock. Don't know what Jim was thinking taking two novices to Gogarth. Found it all very thrilling!
Owen W-G - 2nd - 31/May/03 with Dan & Jim

Trobbo - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/03 with mark humphries

nige - Lead - Apr/03 with jim hewson

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 03/Mar/03 with Steve Wells

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 2003 with Steve Hastings

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/02

Mark Riley - AltLd O/S - Jun/02 with Stuart Greenall

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Dan Bailey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2002

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/01

kato'sdad - AltLd - Jun/01 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - AltLd O/S - Jun/01 with Jon Berry

malc - AltLd - 19/May/01 with Adele

shoulders - Lead - 12/May/01 with dai

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - 2001

Stone Muppet - 2001

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/00 with Dan Bailey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/00

timreynolds - 2nd - 09/Jun/00 with Chris Lodge, Sean Corbett

ChrisJD - Lead - 2000 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2000

ArnaudG - 2000 with Jon

Hidden - Lead - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Very fingery starting traverse, very steep, easy and pumpy above. Scary stance with two rotten pegs and a bunch of half in nuts. Better than DOWH, done the same day. Wicklow sunset. October Magic.
alan moore - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/99

First Gogarth route
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 16/May/99 with Mike Pritchard, Dave Garry

Rock Fairy - 2nd - May/99 with Carl

jfmchivall - AltLd O/S - Apr/99

Darragh - Lead - Aug/98 with Colm

nickdonohue - AltLd - 23/May/98

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 1998

phardman - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/97 with Jon Bibby

cornishben - AltLd O/S - Jul/97 with Andy Connor

Duncan I - AltLd - Jul/97 with Simon Coles

michael burrows - 2nd - 03/May/97 with steve ward

frost - Lead - May/97

tlr - AltLd - 12/Apr/97 with Pete D

Cold and scary first visit to this region
andrew300169 - AltLd - Mar/97 with Pom

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Tim Bateman - AltLd - 18/Aug/96 with Paul McMahon

GuyM - AltLd - Aug/96 with will

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Mar/96

WB - AltLd O/S - 1996 with Guy

Julian Wedd - Lead - 1996 with I. Raynor

Colin Edwards - Lead - Jul/95 with Steve Cox

Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/95 with Tom Briggs

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

Hidden - AltLd - 1995

bullybones - 1995

NeilGriffiths - 25/Aug/94 with Simon Bennett

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/94

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/94

craig h - AltLd O/S - 22/May/94 with Shaun

michael burrows - Lead rpt - 01/May/94 with lola gunn

Colin Edwards - 1994 with Steve Cox

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/93

babymoac - Lead - 07/Aug/93 with graham d

Hidden - 1993

Andy Say - Lead - 05/Sep/92

whispering nic - AltLd - 25/Aug/92 with Ali W

Chris Ellis - AltLd - 24/May/92 with Ernie Horrocks

auld al - AltLd O/S - May/92

Hidden - AltLd - 1992

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Neil R - Lead - 20/Jun/91 with Sharon

nai - AltLd - 1991

rilem - AltLd - 1990 with Ian W

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990

Advisable to take a partner who knows nothing about this route; and talk non-stop to him (from the car to the top of the crag) about how good the second pitch is. Reluctantly, accept the first pitch, but make sure you get the teas in at the end of the day.
nigehughes - AltLd - Sep/89 with Malcolm Boater

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jul/88

Hidden - 1988

Bob the lucky s*d got the best pitch!
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Jun/86 with Bob Anderson

uphillnow - AltLd - 24/Oct/85 with Brian barker

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Sep/85

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - 1985

jcw - 1985 with Simon Donowho

Hidden - 2nd - 1985

Roy Stuart - AltLd O/S - 1984 with Billy Bones

Hammy - AltLd - 13/May/83 with Ian Barker, Penny Excel

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1983 with Phillippa Mathews

Wild November day with big wind and big sea. Amazing experience
AlanLittle - AltLd - 27/Nov/82 with Simon Catterall

Mike Owen - 27/Mar/82 with Elaine Owen

Robmwatt - 1982

Ian Jones - Solo O/S - 1980

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1980

Hidden - Apr/79

Hidden - 2nd - 1979

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/78

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Hidden - Lead - 1978

tapley - AltLd - 12/Oct/75 with John Sumner

mikej - AltLd - 13/Jul/75 with Bill Church

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 12/Apr/75 with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson

pneame - 1974

Didn't help when the sea decided to soak my feet on the first move, but what a stunning pitch !!
rogerskews - Lead - 1974 with Roger Beswick

Climbing with Rock and Ice legends!
Dave Musgrove - 11/Aug/73 with Morty Smith, Speedy Smith

bob@daysmill - Jun/72 with S.Worthington

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 14/May/72

greenbuoy - AltLd - 31/May/71 with Bob Lister

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Total votes cast 336
hard E10 of 118
E10 of 118
easy E11 of 118
hard HVS4 of 118
HVS76 of 118
easy HVS26 of 118
hard VS9 of 118
VS2 of 118
easy VS0 of 118
hard 5a0 of 112
5a3 of 112
easy 5a26 of 112
hard 4c19 of 112
4c55 of 112
easy 4c6 of 112
hard 4b2 of 112
4b1 of 112
easy 4b0 of 112
3 Stars90 of 106
2 Stars13 of 106
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat