Rockfax Description
An excellent route with two contrasting pitches: one steep and burly, the other more balancy and delicate. Start by abseiling from the far right-hand end of the promontory (looking out) to a square-cut ledge that is usually a good distance above the swell. Make a belay that overlooks the North Stack wall.
1) 4c, 35m. From the belay, move down and left to gain a steep but juggy flake/crack-line. Storm up this on ample holds to reach a small stance on rotten pegs and small wires.
2) 4c, 20m. Step up and right, pulling over a bulge to reach a ledge. Follow the good footholds round to the right to finish up an easy groove. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Wayne S 29/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May AltLd O/S
pingora 28/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/May Lead O/S
bryce.dorin 14/May AltLd O/S

Took 2nd pitch

with dunnyg
codenamel 30/Apr 2nd O/S
with Jared
Alex_Derbyshire 21/Apr 2nd

Led by John Orr on University trip. First time on a sea cliff thrilling experience and awesome route!

spragglerocks 16/Apr AltLd O/S

Led p1

with John
giuly 16/Apr 2nd
with Darren
Clama 16/Apr 2nd O/S
with Dougie
Hidden 16/Apr AltLd
shed_hed 16/Apr Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

with Julia
the power 14/Apr AltLd
Hannes B 06/Apr Lead O/S

variation, in from 5m above shortly after a shower

with JenM
JenShelley 25/Mar AltLd O/S

I led p2 - found the right line as it matched the description but seemed to traverse much further right than the topo looked like.

with Alan
alanblyth 25/Mar AltLd O/S

Led p1.

James Beaumont 14/Mar AltLd O/S

Pitch 1, nice exposure for HVS

with Max
max_dickens 14/Mar AltLd O/S

P2, very enjoyable route

with Bow
dom94 12/Mar AltLd O/S

Lead P2. First pitch was pretty wet and cold. Pitch 2 is bold and exposed but there are only a few challenging moves.

amccann 12/Mar AltLd O/S

Led P1. Legs got wet in the waves on the initial traverse and the first half of the pitch was soaked, but good fun hauling up the jugs once my fingers got some feeling back above that.

with Dom
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
saintlade ??/2016 -
John Bunney ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
rich_hw 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Michael Morrell 30/Sep/15 AltLd

Climbed with Simon, great route. Bomber hand holds, little bit over hanging and a little bit pumpy.

Woodmouse 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S

First sea cliff climb! Brilliant route

Bryan M 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Paul lead p1

with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Gareth T 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with AndrewP
AndrewP 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 - absolutely brilliant pitch.

bridget143 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Becca
belay bunny turned bad 29/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Bridget
ebf 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S

I led the first pitch from the usual ledge not long after high tide, which meant a wet traverse. I did this years ago, but didn't remember it which meant I set up belay in the wrong place, before spotting the large ledge. Hint: there is an obvious niche in the crack, it's not that - look 4/5m above it! Will led through to the real P1 belay and the Paul led P2 (not much pro!) to a rope drag & wind blown (but cracking) finish. Brilliant. Easy for the grade.

pastep 28/Aug/15 2nd
with ebf
joermann 15/Aug/15 Lead
The old James turnbull 11/Aug/15 -
with John Crook
D.Russell 11/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Ally
Ally Baba 11/Aug/15 2nd
with dougie
Hidden 01/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Jake Young 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
renetemple 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Super awesome first Gogarth experience! second pitch with little gear but easy climbing :)

with John Orr
MFB 14/Jun/15 AltLd
with MB
Hidden 07/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
kelly_426 30/May/15 AltLd
with Tom Nichols, Sasha Doyle
GStone 24/May/15 2nd O/S
with Steve Senior, Marcus Harvey
guy757 23/May/15 -
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
RyanOsborne 16/May/15 AltLd

Second pitch.

RM199 16/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

Matt77 16/May/15 AltLd O/S

First pitch. Took ages to commit to the start because the sea was so high. Sat on the dark, dank ledge for about an hour although it was cool to watch all the seals.

Davesmith1981 01/May/15 Lead
ianstevens 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Lead in one long pitch - horrendous rope drag but better than squeezing three on the belay. Fantastic route, lovely exposure and just enough gear.

Hidden 10/Apr/15 2nd
steveb2006 06/Apr/15 Lead

Very greasy start - good after. No one else around on bank hol mon - atmospheric misty conditions.

with Ian Cartwright
jezb1 14/Mar/15 AltLd

Rpt, lead p2

Hidden ??/2015 -
jacob shieldhouse hadley ??/2015 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
dhdaveuk 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Leo
foostu4 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 06/Sep/14 2nd


with Bubbles
joeflan 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Mike Hood 31/Aug/14 AltLd
with Alex
Alex Munnery 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

leeds_belle 23/Aug/14 AltLd dog

It rained, it was really wet - unfortunately not a lot of fun.

with Will
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Denry 06/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Tamsin Gay Leading, Me and Will Seconding.

with Tamsin Gay, Will lloyd
Kate Edhouse 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome climb, jugfest on P1 and a little bolder and balencey on P2 (I led pitch P1)

erbridger 23/Jul/14 AltLd

Great first pitch - really juggy! Crap last pitch.

Andy Clarke 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great climbing: an exciting initial traverse leading to steep jug pulling. P2 very different: balancy and quite bold.

with Dale
JenRoberts 06/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Ollie
wi11 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

P2 Jug city

with Ben
Ben Briggs ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Abs
Josiemc ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S

really nice climb, jugalicious ;)

with Mo Barclay
climbtim 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
David Stevens 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic first pitch, Jug pulling in an amazing position.

with Keith
Keith Swainson 29/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Justin T 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Nick B
bantamdave 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing. I got pitch one. Serious route. Sara FAB on second pitch

with Sara
duncandarnell 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
misterb ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with justin
mr mills 30/May/14 Lead rpt
with alun hughes
Luxulyan 30/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Kyle Dumka, Tom Murrell
PaulTanton 26/May/14 AltLd O/S
Mark Grist 26/May/14 AltLd
rbharries 05/May/14 AltLd O/S

super intimidating when you have to go around that corner, but the actual climb is a breeze and amazing!

with owain williams
Abi Chard 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 28/Apr/14 Lead
jmills94 19/Apr/14 AltLd rpt

previously lead first pitch so nice to lead second. Ed's first gogarth route. would be vs anywhere else - jugs galore.

with ed
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
eburki1 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

I used the flake at the top of P1 to belay from. 2 cams and a sling.

Martin Haworth 18/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 11/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Ows ?/Apr/14 AltLd
fletch540 ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/14 Lead O/S
DHHZ 25/Mar/14 2nd
with Rose
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 AltLd
Pete_Frost 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, damp at first but the holds are so good you won't care: a classic pitch. Belay pegs are pants, and should be removed. Belay on wires in the crack above the pegs, plus wires to either side of the ledge.

with Megan Beaumont
duncandarnell 13/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
Jules Lane 10/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. I made Richard started with the first part of Vend-t (whats that name about ?), then traveresing across for 3m into the mega Britomartis flake. At 5b this was not what I was looking for straight off the bat, but we had no option as the tide / sea state made the standard initial downclimb less then attractive. Actually this was fine and got us warmed up fast ! No problems after that. Good stuff.

with Mynydd Richard W
Andrew Sloan 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

led second pitch.

with Tony Holdsworth
Tony Holdsworth 05/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Lead the main pitch. Perfect weather, perfect place.

with Andy Sloan
David_Gledson 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Brill. Led pitch 2

with Alan
erica 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant 1st pitch. Led the (scary) 2nd pitch - where did all the holds and gear go?

with John
John Brayshaw 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Low tide start - great route

with Erica
thomaspomfrett 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Nearly joined the grey seals, waves were a little close to the belay for comfort!

with Pat Brien
Dizz 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

FFinished up toiler on the sea

with EJ
Hidden 03/Aug/13 -
kyaizawa 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route on good rock and gear, with great views. Lead P1.

lcullum7 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Mantel above the belay is quite awkward, traverse is steady but could only find a single RP2 placement

Mr Wild 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
cbeard 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Excellent climbing!

Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
dswansonlow 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
shed_hed 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Really fun. Start was greasy and had waves crashing at feet which made it much more exciting and then cool moves above that. I led P1 and Dougie finished up Toiler on the Sea.

Tom Phillips 27/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with leo
Hidden 25/Jun/13 -
Dan Geh 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Mini epic. Abseiled down to find the tide was completely in with waves crashing into the traverse. Had to wait an hour on the ledge for it to go down slightly, and it was still dodgy! Holds were all greasy for the first pitch.

with Phil
greglad 09/Jun/13 -
HIGHTOWER 08/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

Led second pitch this time.

with Ben Thynne
piersnewton 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

pitch 2 lead

ollyroberts 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1

John Nuttall 06/Jun/13 Lead

As single pitch. 50m rope ok.

with Andy H
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Johnmuff ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 21/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 21/May/13 AltLd O/S
Tim Rodgers 04/May/13 2nd
rd20 03/May/13 AltLd O/S

RD P1 Couldn't get no. 3 nut out at the belay ledge. Didn't have a hex or rock to use as a mallet. Hope someone else succeeds - wouldn't mind the nut back either!

with Fiona
Fiona McFarlane ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Robert Dufton
ashtond6 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Jillybean 27/Apr/13 AltLd
with Brad
alp79 27/Apr/13 2nd
JonesJ 23/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Johnywilks 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Second pitch traverse very little protection. Second belay desperate for gear with 2 rusty bolts and a couple of wires!

Jules 210681 20/Mar/13 2nd
Zoomer 20/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, huge holds but got pumped fiddling gear in, rested and then cracked on. Belay pegs are nearly rusted through so linked up 5 little pieces.

herman0055 20/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Good route mega rock, good first pitch with a contrasting second pitch. Gogarth for me

with Glen bloomer
gingergeorge 20/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jan/13 -
jezb1 11/Jan/13 AltLd

Have done before but lead the quality P1 this time after backing off Spider Wall due to the traverse being v wet and slimey. Great route.

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
jimxxx ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 AltLd O/S
with Claire Tetley
captain ??/2013 -
HAJ Francis 24/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

first time on gogarth, cant wait to go back. lead second pitch

danimal88 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

awesome route. mike got swallowed by a wave i the belay ledge so I got first pitch. loads of gear on first pitch though the belay required some creativity

with Mike Met office
Hardcore Pat 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with Chris Vanderz
guy757 18/Aug/12 AltLd
with Vic
Hidden 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Cardi 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Juggy heaven! Jack led P2 of Toiler on the Sea

with Jack S
Andrew Lodge 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

2 completely different pitches, climbed at low tide so could start at the base, it always feels an adventure at Gogarth!

with Tony, Steve
Tony Ryland 18/Aug/12 AltLd
Rachel S 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S

1st pitch only, followed Nik on 2nd pitch of Toiler

with Nik
Nik Jennings 10/Aug/12 2nd

First pitch only.

with Rachel
HB1 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with LS
kdalzell 07/Aug/12 2nd

1st pitch

with Konrad Doyle, Liam Fleming
JamieSparkes 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1, which was brilliant :) expoesed belay, shame about P2, which was dull.

Liam Ingram 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Using every last moment of daylight. 1st pitch is ludicrously awesome!

bwestwood 05/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
Alex Mason 27/Jul/12 Solo O/S


with Sam
mick1jones 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Led P1 then Rich led P2 of toiler of the sea

with Rich Rogers
Rich Kirby 19/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Ruth
Hidden 19/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 08/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
BenRyle 03/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

mild dampness

Rob84 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Chris James
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
duncandarnell ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
Alex.M-M. 12/May/12 Lead rpt
with dale 42
dale 42 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
Alex Thompson 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Bit windy! Word of advice, belay at the rusty peg ledge not that enticing large ledge higher up...

with James Williamson
Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd
Ched 01/Apr/12 AltLd
with gali
Ched 01/Apr/12 AltLd
with gali
Owain Llewelyn 26/Mar/12 AltLd
with Sam
Brannock 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Jugtastic! Better climbing than Dream?

Hidden 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Sardien 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Led P1, thought it looked less steep than it was but if I ignore the pump, seeing my quickdraw tumble into the sea and one crumbled handhold, then it was mighty joyous climbing. Andy led P2 of Toiler on the sea as an interesting exit route. Bit bold!

with Andy Scott
Mountain Llama 12/Mar/12 AltLd

The thought of going to Gogarth makes me nervous! Tide had just started to ebb and our landing pad was looking very dry. Ian led P1, which was good value as you skim across the sea before getting established on the rising crack. Lead P2. Top notch route!

with Ian M
markfairbank 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant first pitch! Guidebook went for a swim unfortunately though.

with Paul Sheehan
steve_hoey 10/Mar/12 AltLd
with Matt Guy
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Owen_P ??/2012 -
tompilgrem 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route. Lead p2, position on p1 is great.

with Dad
bobpilgrem 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1-found initial wet traverse the crux-lovely slanting crack that followed was fantastic.Worth 4 stars !

with Bob/Tom
fizzychewitt 30/Sep/11 AltLd
with Jayne
Daniel Heath 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Nice. Not three stars though compared to those on the main slab.

Matt Cooke 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

Timo Austino 28/Aug/11 AltLd

Gogarth experience - wave splattered, traverse timed to be between the waves and just amazing!

with Colon
Hidden 28/Aug/11 -
hedgehog77 09/Aug/11 2nd
with rob brown
Hidden 04/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/11 AltLd
mary 01/Aug/11 2nd
with Dale Gautrey
Hidden 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
willoates 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Quite good repetative jug pulling, nowt special to warrant 3 stars I didn't think.

with Polish Nicky, Iona
Hidden 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Nicole Almond 26/Jul/11 2nd

scary start with the water splashing at you, and the worry of being drowned! however was a good climb once we came onto dry rock! started to trust my feet again! it was a shame we were in the shade but was still a great view whilst climbing. :)

with Dad
Dave Almond 26/Jul/11 Lead

hot and sunny

dan-8990 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with NM
Dave Rumney 10/Jul/11 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
chrisdavies 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

great first pitch, only problem was working out which of the thousands of jugs to use!! so much so, we only put six bits of gear in the whole route!

with simon moore
Hidden 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
Alex.M-M. 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
dan ely 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with steve
Luis SD 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Steeve 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

led second (traverse) pitch. not that great, no stars, no nice moves, just big jugs and no useful footholds.

Mark Young 30/May/11 AltLd
chrisallan 29/May/11 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 29/May/11 AltLd O/S

Started from the low ledge. Chris led P1, I led P2

Hidden 14/May/11 AltLd O/S
tomhull 14/May/11 AltLd O/S
with matt harris
Jonas Paulsson 12/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Nice location!

with Andi Turner
andi turner 12/May/11 AltLd

International Meet. Awesome route, jug fest. A wild sea makes the route even more memorable. First twelve feet gopping wet, but holds were plenty big enough.

with Jonas from Sweden
haydng 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Rob
benkelsey 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

massive jug fest although very steep first pitch, followed by a very easy second slightly broken, finishing pitch.

Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Lenny 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with John
scarletlaydy 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Richard Yorke
sophiecb 12/Apr/11 2nd

Started out on Vend-T due to high tide. Choughs, ravens, seals plus lots of spume made for an atmospheric Gogarth experience. Awesome :)

with Neil
adi bryant 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Lee
chrism225 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Second pitch. Hand so cold on first pitch could not feel anything.

with Sheffield Polly
Hanski 23/Mar/11 2nd
simon kimber 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
owain86 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Couldn't find Ollie Henson anywhere here either..?

with Not Ollie Henson, Max
maxamusdecamus 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Very Fun route. Mr Henson?

gd303uk 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Exited left from top of first pitch, across spider wall, or toiler on the sea, good fun.

with John Rogers
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
tuftynick ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
zukator 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Needs a new peg (Lost Arrow?) on the belay ledge top of pitch 1

with Ben Smedley
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Chris M 11/Sep/10 Lead
with Tommy B
Sankey 04/Sep/10 AltLd
with Luke
Hidden 31/Aug/10 -
clive-greenwood 26/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Anna
mr mills 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Gareth
metal arms 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1

mark20 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1, better than any pitch on Dream.

Sam1991 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Mark P1, Me P2, Stunning first pitch (inc. hanging belay 10ft above the rising tide), 2nd pitch strange line, awkward, but worth it for the first pitch

with Mark
healeyduk 02/Aug/10 AltLd
Dunx ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Joe M
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Fat Tim 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Mark led pitch 1, I led pitch 2.

with Mark kauntz
leon 21/Jul/10 Lead

Very atmospheric route due to angle & length of p1. Was a bit complacent at first. At around 50 feet up my foot slipped & I realized two things 1)I faced a 40 foot fall onto one small piece of gear that I was 100% happy with with. 2)The route was actually pretty steep & pump out could be an option. I paid a lot more attention after that!! I lead both pitches & we had a nighmare swapping over at the stance. P2 is crap.

3 Names 13/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
wolf.leeb 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

1st pitch.. jugfest

with nic
Moondance 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Paul B
d_meacher 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
tatz45 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. First pitch is brilliant jug pulling but second pitch is pretty poor.

Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Dave Gleave
Martin Bennett 01/Jun/10 -
with NickH
London Luke ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Dan
jezb1 30/May/10 AltLd

Lead p2. P1 very meaty. P2 more delicate. Best route I've done in a long time.

wirralclimber1984 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with danny, james
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd
Hardonicus 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Epic jugfest, massively exciting!!!!

with Chris Surfleet
willworkforfoodjnr 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, wicked :)

Hidden 11/May/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
tom.e ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Claire
Diggler 11/Oct/09 2nd
with stemill
stemill 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 04/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 04/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Interesting...abbed to the ledge at high tide, found we had to wait at least 2 hours before we could make the traverse in to the start of the route. Al dropped my brand new guide in the sea and later we were unable to retrieve a jammed ab rope. Having said all that the route itself was real star quality, enjoyed every bit of it.

eduardo 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Approx date, give or take a day or 2. Paul lead P1, I lead p2

with Paul Hennelly
troutbeck 17/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with A.M.
Hidden 16/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
david morse 07/Aug/09 Lead rpt

couldnt find spider wall

with mikey R
melonmike 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
smallerrich 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Shoe testing

with Rich Ball
idmadden ?/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/09 2nd
Dave Foster 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

P2. Thugfest lower down and a bit more delicate at the top.

with Andy
Hidden 12/Jul/09 AltLd rpt
climbingpixie 12/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Awesome route made more exciting by the traverse being soaking wet and washed by waves every couple of minutes!

with Andy Hobson
JEP 05/Jul/09 Lead
with Julie Cunningham
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd
Andrew1 01/Jul/09 Lead
with Juliet Parker Smith
Kirill 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch

Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Roger Cruse 20/Jun/09 AltLd rpt
with Kris
Ed Booth 15/Jun/09 AltLd

done before. Sean led first pitch.

sanjeetm 15/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
pete87abs 15/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Sanj
dj_brigham05 15/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
rclarke 15/Jun/09 AltLd

jugfest as described

John Roe 03/Jun/09 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch, scrappy in comparison to first.

Hidden 03/Jun/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/09 AltLd
grady ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead
Em66 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Mat
Hidden 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
AJ007 23/May/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 28/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Pete Nugent
Andrew Barker 27/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

with Chunk
Speeddemonsi 27/Apr/09 Lead O/S
ilikemonkys 26/Apr/09 AltLd
with Carrie
dan gibson 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 26/Apr/09 AltLd
with dan
Ben1983 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S

In one pitch!

Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Paulww 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Ryan
mulletcocktail2000 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

hands in pockets stuff

with paul
Hjort 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S

P1 only. Finished up Spider's Wall P2

with Hilary Theaker
hils theaker 22/Feb/09 2nd

finishing up spiders wall, all in one pitch

with Toby
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
windy100 ??/2009 -
Hidden 13/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 13/Oct/08 AltLd rpt

Lead first pitch,pumpier than I remember it but cracking climb.

Hidden 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Carly 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Richard
Calder 28/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Had to miss out traverse at the start of P1 because it was dripping wet.

with Dave
Hidden 19/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Dale ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

our escape route when we got trapped on the one side of the zawn tring to get to the dream. Good pumpy route.

with dave
dicky79 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S


with Nicola
Different Steve 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
danm ?/Jun/08 AltLd

1st pitch, soaking for first 10m. Great.

jimsim55 28/May/08 AltLd O/S

First 30ft or so really uncomfortable and scary because, being tidal, it was damp and salty. But then come the jugs! Great, sharp, positive holds big enough to wrap your elbow round. Should have taken more quickdraws because the first pitch is pretty long and used loads of gear. Second pitch pleant and airy.

with Andy Kitchen
paddygoodwin 25/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve
stevepotter 25/May/08 AltLd
Hidden 20/May/08 AltLd rpt
Tom Eagle 19/May/08 AltLd
with skygod78
duzinga 08/May/08 2nd O/S
with Guido and Chuck
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead
RCrockford 05/May/08 2nd
with Andy G
Luke Brooks ?/May/08 AltLd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
mike bridges 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

Climbed after an open day at Bangor Uni.Followed the guide book advice and abseiled down to the ledge and left the rope hanging.Rob led off onto very wet rock and managed to get into the groove.He then got really pumped laybacking and fixing gear and seemed to take ages(we`d left it late in the afternoon and thought we could just about make it before dark) and I could see the sun setting rapidly! Ended up me leading the top pitch in the dark with head torch,and Rob following by touch alone as his torch was in his bag!!! Tougher climb than anticipated.

Rampikino 25/Aug/07 AltLd
with Mark Hills
The Bad Cough 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Paul Sambrooks
Tobias at Home 29/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

scary to get started.

with Mun
Adam Booth 29/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 29/Jul/07 AltLd
givemetea 11/Jun/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/07 2nd
givemetea 27/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Ann Chong
John Kettle 29/Apr/07 -
ewen 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/07 Lead
gripped01 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Kate Simmonds
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
mux ??/2007 -
ritchierich 03/Sep/06 AltLd rpt
Hidden 13/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Bella ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris
Stig 04/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
sammoore ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Richard Hirst
Will1 ?/Jul/06 -
with Mike
Chris the Tall 25/Jun/06 AltLd

Very tense to start - awkward traverse, wet holds, some big rollers. But once onto the big holds - wahay!!!

Hidden 08/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
colin milton 29/Apr/06 AltLd

lead p2

with ian dunbar
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Miles Grout
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ben Wolstenholme ??/2006 -
jamiev 22/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
with stephen pritchard
david morse ?/Sep/05 AltLd
with rampant
datoon 13/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with RT
Dave Reeve ?/Aug/05 Lead
with Clare Pastorius
nicholas Barrowclough 20/Jun/05 Lead
Hidden 06/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/05 2nd O/S
duncana 06/Jun/05 2nd
with Tom Challands
Topsy Turvy ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

did the brilliant first pitch. Date approx.

with Rob Sykes
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Peter Smith ??/2005 AltLd
with Mick Leather
marcoleptic ??/2005 Lead
with Mel, Pete
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
ColinD ??/2005 -
Hidden 04/Sep/04 2nd O/S
leerybunny ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Matt Thompson
Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/04 Lead

Brilliant route.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Laramadness 15/May/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 16/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

Terry 1st pitch 5a, Me 2nd pitch 4c

with Terry Robinson
MazElden 07/Apr/04 -
dicky79 ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Mike Bottomley
Pete Graham ??/2004 AltLd
with Rick Graham
red1200 ??/2004 -
Phill Mitch ??/2004 Lead O/S
with john d
brockers ??/2004 -
with CarlZ
VPJB ??/2004 -
spidey 15/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with irish si
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Urgles ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Robbie H 27/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Found the first moves of the ledge hard

with Mark Harrison
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
Jon Pilling ?/Jun/03 2nd O/S


with Ben Hardy
Hidden ?/Jun/03 -
davebrox ?/Jun/03 AltLd
with nikki and james
Owen W-G 31/May/03 2nd

One of my first experiences on rock. Don't know what Jim was thinking taking two novices to Gogarth. Found it all very thrilling!

with Dan & Jim
Trobbo 16/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
with mark humphries
nige ?/Apr/03 Lead
with jim hewson
Dave Kerr 03/Mar/03 AltLd
with Steve Wells
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 AltLd
with Steve Hastings
Hidden ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Mark Riley ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Greenall
chrishedgehog ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Dan Bailey
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/01 AltLd
kato'sdad ?/Jun/01 AltLd
RobSimmo ?/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
malc 19/May/01 AltLd
with Adele
shoulders 12/May/01 Lead
with dai
Hidden 06/May/01 AltLd rpt
Hidden 15/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
chrishedgehog 03/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with Dan Bailey
Hidden 22/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
timreynolds 09/Jun/00 2nd
with Chris Lodge, Sean Corbett
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 2nd O/S
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
with Jon
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -

Very fingery starting traverse, very steep, easy and pumpy above. Scary stance with two rotten pegs and a bunch of half in nuts. Better than DOWH, done the same day. Wicklow sunset. October Magic.

Hidden 11/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
A Crook 16/May/99 AltLd O/S

First Gogarth route

with Mike Pritchard, Dave Garry
Rock Fairy ?/May/99 2nd
with Carl
jfmchivall ?/Apr/99 AltLd O/S
Darragh ?/Aug/98 Lead
with Colm
nickdonohue 23/May/98 AltLd
Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
phardman 24/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Jon Bibby
cornishben ?/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with Andy Connor
Duncan I ?/Jul/97 AltLd
with Simon Coles
michael burrows 03/May/97 2nd
with steve ward
frost ?/May/97 Lead
tlr 12/Apr/97 AltLd
with Pete D
andrew300169 ?/Mar/97 AltLd

Cold and scary first visit to this region

with Pom
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Tim Bateman 18/Aug/96 AltLd
with Paul McMahon
GuyM ?/Aug/96 AltLd
with will
Hidden 10/Mar/96 2nd
WB ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Julian Wedd ??/1996 Lead
with I. Raynor
Colin Edwards ?/Jul/95 Lead
with Steve Cox
Rob Davies 02/May/95 2nd

Wave washed start. Some guy dropped a rope into the sea and had to swim for it.

Rich Kirby 16/Apr/95 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/95 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
bullybones ??/1995 -
NeilGriffiths 25/Aug/94 -
with Simon Bennett
Hidden 14/Aug/94 Lead
John Southworth 06/Aug/94 Lead O/S
craig h 22/May/94 AltLd O/S
with Shaun
michael burrows 01/May/94 Lead rpt
with lola gunn
crossleysm ?/May/94 Solo O/S
Colin Edwards ??/1994 -
with Steve Cox
Hidden 27/Aug/93 AltLd
babymoac 07/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 -
Andy Say 05/Sep/92 Lead
whispering nic 25/Aug/92 AltLd
with Ali W
Chris Ellis 24/May/92 AltLd
with Ernie Horrocks
auld al ?/May/92 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S

Route fine, belay scary.

with Sandy Wilkey
Neil R 20/Jun/91 Lead
with Sharon
nai ??/1991 AltLd
rilem ??/1990 AltLd
with Ian W
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
nigehughes ?/Sep/89 AltLd

Advisable to take a partner who knows nothing about this route; and talk non-stop to him (from the car to the top of the crag) about how good the second pitch is. Reluctantly, accept the first pitch, but make sure you get the teas in at the end of the day.

with Malcolm Boater
Hidden 02/Jul/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 -
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/86 AltLd

Bob the lucky s*d got the best pitch!

with Bob Anderson
uphillnow 24/Oct/85 AltLd
with Brian barker
Hidden 29/Sep/85 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Nevil ??/1985 -

Do not know year

jcw ??/1985 -
with Simon Donowho
Hidden ??/1985 2nd
Roy Stuart ??/1984 AltLd O/S
with Billy Bones
Hammy 13/May/83 AltLd
with Ian Barker, Penny Excel
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1983 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
AlanLittle 27/Nov/82 AltLd

Wild November day with big wind and big sea. Amazing experience

with Simon Catterall
Mike Owen 27/Mar/82 -
with Elaine Owen
Robmwatt ??/1982 -
Martin Bennett 12/Apr/80 -
with Stella Adams
Ian Jones ??/1980 Solo O/S
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/79 -
Hidden ??/1979 2nd
Hidden 20/Jun/78 Lead
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Hidden ??/1978 Lead
tapley 12/Oct/75 AltLd
with John Sumner
mikej 13/Jul/75 AltLd
with Bill Church
Mark Kemball 12/Apr/75 2nd
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
pneame ??/1974 -
rogerskews ??/1974 Lead

Didn't help when the sea decided to soak my feet on the first move, but what a stunning pitch !!

with Roger Beswick
Dave Musgrove 11/Aug/73 -

Climbing with Rock and Ice legends!

with Morty Smith, Speedy Smith
bob@daysmill ?/Jun/72 -
with S.Worthington
Dave Musgrove 14/May/72 AltLd
greenbuoy 31/May/71 AltLd
with Bob Lister
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High E1
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Votes cast 121
High 5a
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High 4c
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High 4b
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Votes cast 115
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