Zeus** E2 5b
[Zeus - Wen Zawn, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A direct line with intricate climbing that leads to an exposed finale. Sustained but never desperate with plenty of fiddly gear and helpful hidden holds. High in the grade. Start at the base of the alcove between Dream.. and Wen.
1) 5a, 25m. From the alcove, climb onto the blunt-topped pinnacle. Continue above to beneath the corner. Traverse left round the arete. Move up and continue on good holds to a belay.
2) 5b, 45m. Climb the thin crack behind the belay for 10m. A tricky sequence rightwards leads to Dream... and an ancient peg. Continue upwards, first left and then back right to a small roof. Pullover this at its widest point. A wide crack leads to a small stance.
3) 5a, 18m. Step right and climb the vague crack that fizzles out beneath the final wall. Plug in an extra runner and continue to the top on huge holds; jug pulling in the sky! © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Gogarth Extreme Gems.

Photo: Zeus - Wen Zawn © pauls911
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 65 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/15

davebrox - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/15 with Vanders

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Chris Gooder

Seymore Butt - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13

A better climb then quartz icicle IMO.
Bennykr - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Bubbles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13

Nice route, 2 stars, but it was a cold windy day
PaulTanton - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13 with Stuart Lancaster

Abbed in to start of 2nd pitch. Nik led, 5b, then I led to top pitch, 4b.
Rachel Somerville - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Nik

Led 2nd pitch.
Nik Jennings - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Rachel

Rory Shaw - 19/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 14/Jun/11 with Dad and sarah

zukator - 2nd - 14/Jun/11 with Sarah, Owain

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 18/May/11 with David

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11

got horribly dehydrated waiting on the ledge but good climbing anyhow. was really not in the mood to finish up that horrendously loose chimney but still - classic gogarth experience. Great lead from Remus even though slighlty off route. felt hard for E2
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Remus Knowles

Toby Dunn - 2011

tuftynick - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/10

datoon - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with K

khawk - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with DT

Meant to be doing dream. Abbed past the belay, Jeff says "It'll be reet, we'll just trot up this bit here and get back on route". It was, but only just!!
stemill - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Jeff

From the Wen ledge to the Wen niche only. We were a bit off route....
jeffb - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08 with stemill

Al Evans - 2008

mux - 2007

Returning from elbows
NeilGriffiths - 05/Nov/06 with Dave Garry

Will1 - Jul/06 with Mike

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Boy - 2006

Led main pitch
cem - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/05 with Graham Dolman

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/03

single pitch from the Wen ledges
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/02 with Joe Brown

ian caton - Lead O/S - Jul/01 with Matt

Hidden - 2001

Ched - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/00 with Geraint Evans

ArnaudG - 2nd - 2000 with Jon

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1999

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Dec/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/97

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/96 with john roberts

frost - AltLd - Jul/96 with S Raw

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 09/May/95 with Derek Miller

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/94 with Chris Wilson

The main pitch
D Tempest - AltLd - 16/Jul/94 with Rick

Andy Say - Lead - 26/Jun/94

AlanLittle - 2nd - May/93 with John Whitham

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Apr/93

WB - AltLd O/S - 1992

mark-abz - Lead - 27/Aug/91 with Andy W

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jul/91

Hidden - AltLd - 19/May/90

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 10/Apr/90 with Dad

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/90 with David

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jul/88

andy gittins - 1985

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1984 with Brendan Mcghee

steve L - AltLd - 15/Oct/77 with sharpie

Hidden - AltLd - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ebf, Ian Jones, Alan100, gd303uk, Dr Fran (Vagabond MC)

Total votes cast 32
hard E30 of 12
E30 of 12
easy E30 of 12
hard E20 of 12
E25 of 12
easy E26 of 12
hard E10 of 12
E11 of 12
easy E10 of 12
hard 5c0 of 11
5c0 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 11
5b5 of 11
easy 5b5 of 11
hard 5a0 of 11
5a1 of 11
easy 5a0 of 11
3 Stars0 of 9
2 Stars6 of 9
1 Star3 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S