Rockfax Description
A direct line with intricate climbing that leads to an exposed finale. Sustained but never desperate with plenty of fiddly gear and helpful hidden holds. High in the grade. Start at the base of the alcove between Dream.. and Wen.
1) 5a, 25m. From the alcove, climb onto the blunt-topped pinnacle. Continue above to beneath the corner. Traverse left round the arete. Move up and continue on good holds to a belay.
2) 5b, 45m. Climb the thin crack behind the belay for 10m. A tricky sequence rightwards leads to Dream... and an ancient peg. Continue upwards, first left and then back right to a small roof. Pullover this at its widest point. A wide crack leads to a small stance.
3) 5a, 18m. Step right and climb the vague crack that fizzles out beneath the final wall. Plug in an extra runner and continue to the top on huge holds; jug pulling in the sky! © Rockfax

Ticklists: Gogarth Extreme Gems.

JenShelley 17/Apr AltLd O/S
with Mike H
Mike Hewitt 17/Apr AltLd O/S

I took the final pitch (5a) which felt much easier.

with JenShelley
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
davebrox 22/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Vanders
Martin Haworth 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Bennykr 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

A better climb then quartz icicle IMO.

with Bubbles
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton 04/May/13 2nd O/S

Nice route, 2 stars, but it was a cold windy day

with Stuart Lancaster
Rachel S 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Abbed in to start of 2nd pitch. Nik led, 5b, then I led to top pitch, 4b.

with Nik
Nik Jennings 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

with Rachel
Rory Shaw 19/Jun/12 -
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 14/Jun/11 Lead
with Dad and sarah
zukator 14/Jun/11 2nd
with Sarah, Owain
CharlieMack 18/May/11 Lead O/S
with David
Hidden 03/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

got horribly dehydrated waiting on the ledge but good climbing anyhow. was really not in the mood to finish up that horrendously loose chimney but still - classic gogarth experience. Great lead from Remus even though slighlty off route. felt hard for E2

Toby Dunn ??/2011 -
tuftynick ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
datoon 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with K
khawk 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with DT
stemill 28/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Meant to be doing dream. Abbed past the belay, Jeff says "It'll be reet, we'll just trot up this bit here and get back on route". It was, but only just!!

with Jeff
jeffb 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S

From the Wen ledge to the Wen niche only. We were a bit off route....

with stemill
Al Evans ??/2008 -
mux ??/2007 -
NeilGriffiths 05/Nov/06 -

Returning from elbows

with Dave Garry
Will1 ?/Jul/06 -
with Mike
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
cem 26/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Hidden 25/Jul/03 AltLd
nickdonohue ?/Jul/02 Lead

single pitch from the Wen ledges

with Joe Brown
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
Ched 19/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Geraint Evans
ArnaudG ??/2000 2nd
with Jon
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Dec/97 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/97 Lead O/S
michael burrows 21/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
with john roberts
frost ?/Jul/96 AltLd
with S Raw
Rich Kirby 09/May/95 Lead O/S
with Derek Miller
Campbell42 18/Sep/94 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wilson
D Tempest 16/Jul/94 AltLd

The main pitch

with Rick
Andy Say 26/Jun/94 Lead
AlanLittle ?/May/93 2nd
with John Whitham
Hidden 01/Apr/93 AltLd
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 01/Jun/92 AltLd

Split main pitch with belay on DoWH - running out of small gear. Omitted P1.

WB ??/1992 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 27/Aug/91 Lead
with Andy W
steveb2006 14/Jul/91 Lead

Tide in so cant do 1st pitch (done before)

with Simon Mee
steveb2006 19/May/90 AltLd

A good direct line up Wen slab. Led middle (5b) pitch

with Mervyn Dudley
Dave Musgrove Jnr 10/Apr/90 AltLd
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 10/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with David
Hidden 02/Jul/88 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1984 Lead
with Brendan Mcghee
steve L 15/Oct/77 AltLd
with sharpie
Hidden ??/1976 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
adamre12, ebf, DanOsb, Ian Jones, Alan100, gd303uk, Dr Fran (Vagabond MC)
High E3
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