4 pitches. A major UK classic taking a rising traverse leftwards across Wen Slab to a sensational finale where the zawn drops away below your feet. The climbing itself is not hard but the grade is well justified due to the exposure and the consequences of either the leader or the second falling off the final pitch into empty space. Carrying prussics is highly recommended. Traditionally climbed in four pitches but the first is often bypassed in the common event of big seas.

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Very good routes in the UK, HVS Adventures, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ICAS Climbing Club, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, Must-do routes, Darrencabowabo,s hit list, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, My List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Get out on Rock, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, North wales road to ruins HVS.

dobby 200 02/Nov AltLd O/S

I led p2 and 4. Amazing route!

with Tom
Ed Booth 01/Nov Lead rpt

Beautiful day for November. Climbed whole thing in a t-shirt and had sun setting for last pitch.

with Anna Pugh
Will Mortimer 16/Oct AltLd O/S

What an adventure! Lead P2, Royd lead P1 & P3, we topped out in the dark. Best route in Britain?

DBoothroyd 16/Oct AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 4, skipped 1. Legit.

badgerjockey 11/Oct AltLd O/S

Perfect conditions for what is pretty much the most memorable climb of my life! Led P2 & P4. Cruxes for me were at beginning of P3 and nearing the exit groove of the miraculous P4. Surprisingly varied climbing and sustained 4c throughout. Eye popping place, it's a struggle to take in the full scale of the zawn... Even had a curious seal at the 1st stance.

with Pete
Michael Morrell 03/Oct AltLd
buxtoncoffeelover 01/Oct AltLd

Glorious sunshine, flat sea, no wind, only seals for company. Did all 4 pitches - Marcin lead 1,2 & 4; I lead 3rd. Excellent route - to be repeated.

MarcinGobczynski ?/Oct Lead O/S
martinbettridge06 19/Sep Lead
david harvey 19/Sep 2nd O/S
with martin
MD 19/Sep AltLd O/S

Led p1 from high tide ledge, p2 and p4. I've been wanting to do this climb for years, it was every bit as good as I hoped it would be.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 19/Sep AltLd O/S

Started from high water shelf on p1. Fab route. Led p3. One to do again!

with Mike D
papashango 16/Sep Lead O/S
with PMW
spidermonkey09 15/Sep AltLd rpt

Led the flake pitch again, slightly frustrating experience stuck behind a few teams but still fun.

Ella7 15/Sep AltLd O/S

Led p.2 and p.4, brilliant last pitch that just doesnt seem possible at the grade right up until you're on it!

Pete_Frost 11/Sep 2nd rpt

Fun day out following a candidate MIA. A real eye-opener to see the final pitch protected so well.

with Jeannie Sherwood
kirsten 08/Sep 2nd

Every bit as good as promised and more, especially as lead decided on a P1/P2 traverse (from high tide start) through ground that was more like 5b rather than the advertised 4c! Think we started across too high. Millpond turquoise sea and seals swimming below - just about perfect.

with John Kettle
John Kettle 08/Sep Lead


leethebee 06/Sep AltLd β

Absolutely amazing climbing. Lead second pitch. Things cant get much better than this. Exposed and atmospheric. Really enjoyed the route.

with Bob Tyn Y Coed
Paul Collins 06/Sep AltLd

A nice wee adventure

with Neil Byrne
Hidden 05/Sep AltLd rpt
Hidden 05/Sep AltLd O/S
Richardlake 03/Sep AltLd O/S

Started from the high tide ledge. Me pitch one and three, Will pitch two. First pitch is a little tricky for 4c and isnt that well protected, also has a large run-out into the wen crack belay but the climbing is ok on this part. The last two pitches are brilliant - well protected, straightforward climbing. The route finding on the final pitch is less a 'work of art' than it may have used to be, the chalk gave it all away on every hold! I would say it is definitely HVS as it is very committing ab-ing after looking at the route from the other side!

will_lake 03/Sep AltLd
Tom.Priestley 02/Sep AltLd dnf

Was halfway to concrete chimney on pitch 3 and a heavy shower came in and drenched everything. Had to reverse lead back to the belay in the soaking wet then ab off some tat to the lower ledges to go across and climb up our ab in rope. Bit of a epic but ended up memorable.

Ian craigie 01/Sep AltLd
with Rachael Crewsmith
Ows ?/Sep 2nd
RonnydeWeerd ?/Sep AltLd O/S

Start from high tide ledge

with Irene Wunnink
alexjz 31/Aug AltLd rpt

Lead last pitch, linked in from concrete chimney. Awesome

with George Ullrich
Hidden 30/Aug AltLd
john lynch 30/Aug Lead O/S

wanted to do this for ages, brilliant! great effort from Beth.

with Bethan D
wrapped in bacon 30/Aug AltLd O/S
with Chris, Daryl
Hidden 27/Aug AltLd O/S
quickdrawmcraw 17/Aug AltLd
with andrew
Hidden 16/Aug AltLd O/S
Compo 16/Aug AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1,2 & 4, linking 1 & 2 together.

with Will
john max 16/Aug AltLd
with Ron Buckley, Jen Maxfield
martinlevya82 15/Aug AltLd O/S


Helen Boothman 15/Aug AltLd O/S
with Martin A
Stopsy 12/Aug AltLd O/S

Mega! Pitches 2 & 4, felt some of the hardest moves deserve 5a. Top out to an amazing sunset!

with Henry
BigTone 07/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug AltLd O/S
Douglas 03/Aug Lead rpt
Federico Sher 03/Aug 2nd O/S
noemie5438 03/Aug AltLd O/S
with Liam
Curly Rich 01/Aug AltLd O/S

Started at pitch 2. Led P3. Last pitch was :)

with gmc
Rickrick 01/Aug -
Hidden ?/Aug AltLd O/S
Robin Brooke ?/Aug Lead

Started too late, combined with faffing trying to find wen zawn then abseil point. turned into recce, ended up climbing out to abseil point. Will be dreaming about returning and completing.

jsmcfarland 31/Jul Lead O/S

Did a high-tide variation somehow. I unintentionally did most of the 2nd pitch of Zeus (E2 5b) until it joined into Dream. Was thinking that the climbing was f*cking hard and really unprotected (my 3 smallest wires in 10m of climbing!) until I joined onto Dream and it all eased off. Will led the amazing rising Flakes pitch in really good style and didn't bother putting in much gear! The traverse pitch is mind-blowing and as cliché as it sounds, must be the best HVS in the world! lots of extenders and long slings help with rope drag, it was nice to climb this while operating a few grades harder as I could really relax and enjoy the atmosphere. *****

with Will
spalice 27/Jul AltLd β

Awesome adventure!

FreddieSmith 27/Jul AltLd rpt
Hidden 25/Jul 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 25/Jul Lead O/S

Brilliant climb. Climbed from high tide ledge as four pitches. Technically I think P3 was the crux. The traverse pitch was outstanding, there is lots of gear if you look for it so there is no need to worry about a massive swing into free space for the second if the leader places appropriate gear. http://mp-m.uk/1uqSt

jason smeeth 24/Jul AltLd
with hotfeet
hotfeet 24/Jul AltLd

A really enjoyable climb. I did pitches 1, 3 & 4.

davewsargent 12/Jul AltLd

Lead p1 &3

GStone 11/Jul AltLd O/S

I led P2 & 4 Awesome!

NickyC 11/Jul AltLd
with Zain Karim
Dawn_K_B 08/Jul AltLd O/S

Did it in the sun with no one else around with a high and choppy tide, all added to the great atmosphere! Very easy climbing for most of it with good but occasionally spaced gear. Great route but maybe too much hype about it.

mrteale 08/Jul AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 +4

Hidden 04/Jul AltLd O/S
08nbrierley 04/Jul AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with jamie
Little AndyH 04/Jul AltLd O/S
joe.91 03/Jul AltLd O/S

Awesome! Worth every bit of the hype! Pitches 1 and 3, 4th was awesome!

Hidden 03/Jul AltLd
jmills94 ?/Jul AltLd O/S

great to do this mega classic again and lead a different pitch. Best climbing is on the first pitch from the ledge into the wen belay but best situation is of course the final pitch. VS climbing in HVS positions.

with pip
steveprice.exmouth 27/Jun 2nd
with Chis Ebbutt
Jamiet297 27/Jun 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 27/Jun Lead O/S
with Jamie Trump
chris ebbutt 27/Jun Lead
Sam4242 26/Jun AltLd O/S

1 and 2

chris fox 26/Jun AltLd

started from sea level to the amusement of 3 seals ! blustery and low cloud made it more atmospheric. Led pitches 1 and 3 and topped out in glorious sunshine. then off to search for a decent pub (are there any) in Holyhead for a deserving beer.

BRoe 22/Jun Lead O/S

p2 and 4, good way to finish my time in Wales.

MarkRoe 22/Jun AltLd O/S

A classic that actually lives up to it's hype. The weather was forecast to be poorer than it was, so instead of using the extra clothes that we brought, we ended up just getting slightly dehydrated and sunburnt. I lost the rock-paper-scissors game to lead the fourth pitch, so ended up leading 1 and 3. We joined 'Wen' slightly above where we were meant to after the second pitch, and so put a high traverse in to join pitch three halfway up it's main flake rather than down climb or reverse. A cracking adventure!

with Ben Roe
newtonmore 22/Jun -
Hidden 19/Jun Lead O/S
M_Robinson 13/Jun AltLd O/S
thomas.veness 13/Jun AltLd O/S

Very committing, but superb, especially the final pitch!

matt1024 13/Jun AltLd O/S

Led p2 and p4 as above. Skipped p1.

Adam24B 13/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun AltLd
Hidden 10/Jun Lead rpt
Suzana 08/Jun AltLd dnf

Did P2. We started late and so had to leave P3 for some other day and escape up. The climb is a good route finding and planing lesson. :)

Ciderslider 08/Jun AltLd O/S

Fantastic !!! I lead from low tide ledge to belay in Wen. Charley lead the diagonal to the concrete chimney, then I lead the final pitch

with charley
charley 08/Jun AltLd O/S

Great day out on Wen :D After a couple of trips down to Swanage, actually found Wen Slab quite friendly. We did it in 3 pitches starting from the lower belay. I led pitch 2 and ended up traversing too high and had to down-climb the concrete chimney - all good fun though... P3 was brilliant fun, smiled all the way. P1 actually felt like the crux to me but that might be because we were freezing....

with Mark
Hidden 05/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/May Lead O/S
kelly_426 30/May AltLd
with Tom Nichols, Sasha Doyle
Tom Redmond 30/May Lead O/S
with luke dudhil
Pete Scott 26/May AltLd O/S

High tide ledge start, climbed p1/2+4. Amazing. Felt confident running out on positive holds. Plenty of hanging belay practice.

Pete Scott 26/May AltLd O/S

Amazing. Great weather. My kind of holds.High tide start. Led p1/2 + p4

dr_botnik 21/May AltLd O/S

Unbelievably good. I almost gave up on it at the hanging belay as the winds were thrashing all the gear about on my harness and, tbh, the climbing had been crap up until that point, however the last two pitches really made up for it. Technically not that hard, but very intimidating, I was off my nut on adrenaline from the minute we abbed down.

the power 21/May AltLd O/S

Haha what rob said

with rob
casey johns 16/May AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2&4. great route

with Andrew willie wilson
Steve Wakeford 12/May 2nd
with Dan Commander
Beshoveled 04/May Lead O/S

Big hold/lump of rock fell off for my second on the final pitch near the start (a hanging flake) could have added a new crux so be aware

joermann 01/May AltLd
Hidden ?/May 2nd
ReubenS1990 ?/May AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 and got into a ropey tangle on the final pitch. Still an epic morning with a seal in the cve and the weather closing in.

smokeyj ?/May AltLd O/S
with pete scott
Andrew will wilson ?/May AltLd

Still can't get enough of the route

mrginna 26/Apr AltLd

Pitches 2 and 4. Great route. Was a little high by end 2nd pitch but soon back on track

with johnny
bede.west 26/Apr Lead O/S

1st and 3rd. So please to of finally got this done! Amazing even if we did spend a while waiting at some belays. Rock solid at the grade and felt wild a true adventure route! Thanks for the Belay Louis!

with German loui
Hidden 26/Apr AltLd
Eagertom 18/Apr Lead O/S

Deserves its rank. Took us ages to find it, but in the end we got there and had an awesome four hours climbing in the evening sun, topping out at 8:15 to the sunset over the horizon. Brilliant day.

with Emily Hunt
j.buckley87 10/Apr AltLd O/S

Cold and windy but great fun

Chris Manasseh 09/Apr AltLd

Led 1 (from high tide ledge) and 3

Hidden 05/Apr AltLd O/S
Private Flounder ?/Apr AltLd
with chris manasseh
emilyjhunt ?/Apr 2nd
with Thomas Eldridge
ian d f 07/Feb AltLd O/S

Led P2 & 4. Mike only had one climbing shoe. Fun route.

pearson9596 07/Feb AltLd O/S

Forgot my right rock shoe! Better than forgetting the left though....

Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
southern_smit ??/2015 AltLd
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
kingholmesy ??/2015 AltLd O/S
with Colin
Scooter Young ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
suds_01 ??/2015 -
quarrtman1 14/Nov/14 2nd

Awesome day with Tom and Andy

with Tom and Andy
Teappleby 10/Nov/14 AltLd

Got back from a weekend in lakes/Yorkshire to sheff on sun night, and then Ben phoned and said gogarth. . . on the road an hour later, south stack layby 1:30am, quick bivi, route in the morning, finish 10 mins before the rain arrives and then drive back to Sheff for a quick foundry ses in the evening! Smashed it! (route was quite wet though, only pitch 3 was really dry, others all seeping a lot). Still a great route though!

amccann 10/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Led from high tide ledges to hanging belay, and last pitch. Quite a bit of water dripping down from the overhangs on the last pitch, but apart from that it was mostly dry with the occasional wet patch.

with Tom A
Hidden 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
chrismadar 11/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch, beautiful climb. Sun was out and a few seals. Little bit wet but nothing to bad!

OliverRoss 11/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead High tideP1, & final pitch. Last piece of gear popped when pulling ropes through so Chris was quite run out.

with Chris Madar
deejmonkey 09/Oct/14 AltLd

Awesome route! The exposure is spectacular and the climbing is a nice mix of styles. There was quite a lot of water seeping through the rock on pitch 3 which made for some delicate, slippy and very bold climbing - makes me laugh just thinking about it.

with Damian
Daymo 09/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Seepage at the chimney and at the beginning of the final pitch. Note to self; wear a waterproof next time.

with DJ
Hidden 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
Jaysquared69 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Very wet and scary

with Olly P
FreddieSmith 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
galpinos 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Took too high a line on P2 and set off wildly wrong on P3 but a helpful pointer from a team on Wen got us back on track. Awesome.

with Sam
JRennie 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. 3rd pitch, flake to lean back around, must remember to protect second next time!

budchawla 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

fantastic route!

EdGeall 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
MichaelGallimore 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Managed to get to the p1 starting ledge with 50m halves plus rope stretch. Was dreading the route finding, but you can walk round the promontory for a good look at the route before you ab in. Moved well, 4hrs. Brilliantly exposed. Crux pitch 2 IMO.

with MikeR
SPD224 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Rob Grafton, Andy Bunnage
rob.grafton 20/Sep/14 AltLd
with andy bunnage
Wayne S 18/Sep/14 2nd
Rachel Somerville 18/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

Paul took the dreaded whipper on the traverse when a massive jug came off in his hand. Thankfully no prussicking required.

Adam Hill 13/Sep/14 -


Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 09/Sep/14 AltLd
Julie Carroll 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Steve Gorton
steve_hoey 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route, huge exposure. Could have done with more nuts and long extenders on the massive 46m last pitch! Huge rope drag made the last bit pretty tiring.

with Matt Guy
dhdaveuk 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Leo
RyanOsborne 06/Sep/14 AltLd

Led pitches 1 and 3 of the high tide version. Excellent route, with engaging but not difficult climbing, in a great position.

Matt77 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Wanted to do this for so long. Well worth the wait; an unbelievable route.

Hidden 05/Sep/14 2nd
joeflan 04/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

lead opposite pitches to last time

jamestaylor92 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Josie McGee
JamesWilliams 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route! the last pitch lives up to all the hype and really gets you pretty excited for only HVS

adamre12 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I led P1 + P3. This route is fantastic. Some interesting moves on the last pitch, falling was not an option!

Mike Hood 31/Aug/14 AltLd
with Alex
Alex Munnery 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led the first and third pitches

staceyjg 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

This has been on my wish list for over 6 years, finally did it on our first wedding anniversary, fabulous way to spend the day. Ab'd into pitch 2, I led p2 & p4, Chris led p3. Hope to do it again as I felt quite scared from the end of p3...... 2 days on and my calves are still killing me! :-)

helin 28/Aug/14 AltLd
with Keith Bell
Hidden 26/Aug/14 AltLd
AndrewP 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Had the whole zawn to ourselves on August B/H weekend (except for the seals and kayakers)! Amazing route that definitely lives up to the hype. Did it from the Wen ledges. Felix lead P1 and 3, I lead P2 and 4.

FelixPeterken 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Beautiful Climb, well worth all the nerves before hand! Had a little bit of struggle deciding where to put the belay at the end of the first pitch, belayed on the big ledge over to the right. Constructed my first ever hanging belay in the concrete chimney, which was quite scary due to the crumbly nature of the "concrete". Amazing last pitch, cant think of a better climb. Not too bad for my third HVS lead!

Nevil 23/Aug/14 AltLd
with Vince
Vincej 23/Aug/14 2nd
with Nevil
markfromstoke 22/Aug/14 AltLd
with Pete H
Hidden 18/Aug/14 2nd
Louis Hume 18/Aug/14 Lead

Still grinning.

andycash 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Ash
Ash Sayers 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Laura Hamlet ?/Aug/14 2nd
ErikAndersen ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
dannyboy83 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Oli 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

High tide so couldn't get right to the base. Led most of P2 of Wen to the Dream belay then Dan led the flakes before I led P3. Outrageous exposure for HVS; sitting on the belay looking across to where you end up is great.

lena.drapella 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
RKirke 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Lena
Tim Hamlet 29/Jul/14 Lead

Absolutely fantastic. Seals watching us on the first few pitches and sunset on the walk out. Mind blown!

alexm198 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Reputation well deserved!

Matt Harle 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

from ledges. 1st and final pitches.

JamesLloyd 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Doesn't disappoint. Started at the high tide approach after the rather scary scramble and abseil. Lead all pitches. Managed to get plenty of gear in the last pitch.

Hidden 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
JenRoberts 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Utterly fantastic last pitch.

with Ollie
fishinwater 15/Jul/14 2nd
with Barry
ebf 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

What can I say? It's lovely, epic and has some beautiful positions. However (sorry), P4 is over-egged - I fail to see how either leader or second could "fall into space" unless the leader either didn't bother with pro, or was a total div in placement. It's a nice pitch though in a glorious position! Finally finished this route after backing off twice due to rain (once end of P2, once end of P3!) Anyway, it was a lovely birthday treat to lead P1 (from the very bottom) and P3 in a very long day from and to Leeds just to do this! Paul led P2 and P4. Will thirded and took photos. :)

JessWilliams 08/Jul/14 2nd
with Dad
poeter210 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
druss 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 diagonal flake to concrete chimney. Feet placement awkward under pressure!

Hidden 01/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
augustus trout 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hardcore Pat 30/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

P1 & 3. Loads of fun.

with Dr Julie
Shane Willis 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4. Awesome.

with Matt
MaccMark 29/Jun/14 AltLd

Led P3+4, started from corner at top of P1. Lovely!

Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Pippa 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Nightmare, started on last pitch in the dark, stuck behind a very slow party of three. Finished at midnight. At least the gear is good and you can feel for holds, and the lighthouse swings around every 30 seconds! Next time always carry the headtorch in your pack even if you start out with plenty of light.

mountain_jay 29/Jun/14 AltLd

Ummm.... Dud someone say epuc?! started on last pitch in the dark, stuck behind a very slow party of three. Finished at midnight. At least the gear is good and you can feel for holds, and the lighthouse swings around every 30 seconds! Next time always carry the headtorch in your pack even if you start out with plenty of light

Spence22 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Started in sunshine at 7:30 pm and topped out in the dark. Commit to the mission!!!

with Ed, Charlie, Jo
Mattlamb90 21/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Perfect dry conditions

with Luke
chris smith 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


with Malcolm watson
chris smith 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Malcolm watson
Jack93 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Started at the high tide ledge, lead pitches 2 and 4. Not a bad pitch on the route! The flake of the thrid is fantastic and the last one has such easy juggy climbing in a superb position; we had an audience of seals bobbing around below us!

spidermonkey09 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3. Third pitch is as good as the last I thought. Great route across seemingly impossible terrain from the promontory.

luke glaister 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

What an adventure. Took a wile to find it and when we did it was very blank looking. With the sea mist rolling in adding to the feel... but we committed to the abseil and was rewarded with the best route to date. V's climbing with hvs feel but I never felt exposed. The rock makes your hands sweat which is a worry on a hot day. To sum up. The hardest part is committing to ab in. 3***s brilliant.

Andrew will wilson 18/Jun/14 AltLd

Hardest part is finding the crag in the mist

Scotsken 16/Jun/14 AltLd

much faffing with the ropes but no dramas, a good lead from Idoia.

with Idoia
Hidden 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
andyjirvin 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Kept my expectations low due to several climbers saying it was over-hyped... but on walking down to the ledge opposite the slab and seeing the route for the first time, I was absolutely blown away! Awesome venue, amazing rock and exposure. The exposure continues on the scramble down the abseil and the abseil itself. Continual feeling of 'oh my go are we really doing this?'. Great positions on the rock. Only half the 1st pitch due to tide. 2nd pitch quite fun but easy, some delicate moves. 3rd pitch, which I led, was excellent, a juggy romp with cool moves and lots of free flowing climbing. Pitch 4 - just wow! Very improbably line but the holds just keep coming. Simply a case of routefinding to get yourself across. Probably has the best moves on the whole route. Excellent. Took a very long time - 6 hours ish??

Luxulyan 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
aerobiee 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Guy Ruyssevelt, John Crewe
rbharries 05/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

wow. HVS is totally fair, deffo has its moments!

with Danger olly
mes32 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

Missed out P1. Led P2 and final pitch, which was a waterfall and got soaked! Big holds though so easy. Amazing!

with Wilki
Mattlamb90 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

All but top pitch as it was a wasserfall

with Ryan
andy_e 21/May/14 AltLd dog

Lead second half of pitch 1, first half of pitch three, and split pitch 4 in two. First three pitchs provide excellent climbing that, barring a few moves, give easy climbing for the grade. Despite great sunny weather, the last pitch was a water fall. A combination of aiding and pulling on gear eventually saw us deposited at the end of the last pitch. I should go back and repeat it when it is dry, or I am stronger. Epic day!

with Ben Phillips
ben.phillips 21/May/14 AltLd
Leo Woodhead 17/May/14 Lead β
with Ian W
MischaHY 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Lead each pitch with the other two seconding on separate ropes. Incredible exposure and climbing. Epic rescue of a friend from the last belay, due to extremely high wind whipping out the gear his leader had placed. Scary times.

with Hague, Henry
Ianwesterby 17/May/14 2nd dnf

Did not complete as friends gear all popped on the last pitch due to high winds. Will go back and get the lead

with Leo
Hidden 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
will moy 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
with tom thorne
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14/Apr/14 Lead

Good effort Harry, age 14 yrs & 1 week

with Harry Turnbull
Hidden 11/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
carl_123 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Jelly ?/Apr/14 2nd O/S

started on pitch 2 as 1st pitch too damp. Mark traversed to 1st belay point too high - apparently on an E2. Shit myself of little holds with numb cold fingers! Last pitch is such good fun. Super exposed but easy jug traversing!

Hidden 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
David Kay 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
JJL 21/Mar/14 Lead

Wet patch on last pitch. A seal, a kayak, two jetskis, two RIBs and another climbing pair checked our progress. No worries. The last time I climbed it the parking was a disused quarry with rusting cars. It's now a visitor centre, cafe and most of Holyhead turns out, presumably for want of anything better to do.

Mackinclimb 18/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
arose 18/Mar/14 AltLd

Bit of rain and a huge sea below made it a wee bit more intimidating!

Alex Winter 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Lots of wind and sea mist about, but looked like it might have been brightening up as we abbed in. It didn't, and George ended up leading the third pitch in horizontal drizzle. Last pitch absolutely sopping. Still awesome though. Must never attempt to take a leak from a hanging belay in the wind again.

with George
georgeevans88 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Quite wet. Met office forecast for sun was not accurate. As a result we moved quite slowly on it checking foot placemets carefully. Loads of exposure. Deserves HVS due to the situation and exposure. Didn't think the fall potential was as bad as expected. Only 1 or 2 moves on the final pitch where it would have been bad to fall.

BenRyle 11/Mar/14 AltLd rpt

Did other pitches this time, bit wet in the morn, still frickin ace

with Dan
Dan724 11/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 4. Final pitch was soaking wet, I had to put my hood up;it was like being in a waterfall. The rock was so wet and slimy that it was like standing on black jellyfish splattered onto the rock.

Sam Watson 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S


JHC 01/Mar/14 AltLd
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
jon_gill1 13/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Chris p1 and p3 and i did p2 and p4. Words don't convey how awesome this route is! E X P O S U R E!!!

with chris Lyness
climbtim 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led final pitch, little bit damp and greasy in places but excellent route. One to keep doing.

Dan Vaj 11/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with James Machaffie
Nigel Bond 05/Oct/13 AltLd
with Joe Boyd
BenRyle 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lived up to the hype, possibly the best route I've ever done. Last pitch was superb!!

tim exley 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 28/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/13 AltLd β
markpollak 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with dave mowle
Anna Yorke 20/Sep/13 AltLd
Jules Lane 10/Sep/13 AltLd β

Started with the traverse from the notch below the normal abseil point, so missing true P1 due to tide. Led P1 and 3. Everything they say is true. Amazing. Beautiful. Last pitch VERY scary but not that hard (4b with 1 or maybe 2 moves of 4c). A full on 2 hours. I could go on. If you can happily lead 4c, just do it.

with Mynydd Richard W
ChrisBrooke 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

High start rather than sea-level. I did the middle 'up' pitch while Nadir took the two sideways ones. Mostly walking :)

davidalcock 01/Sep/13 2nd

P2 & 3, then up 3rd pitch of Rubble to escape the wind. Amazing crag. Will take a windproof next time, and long trousers!

with Blake
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd
erica 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led top of 1st pitch, 3rd pitch. Fantastic route, beautiful day and the place to ourselves!

with John
John Brayshaw 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 & 4 - a tremendous outing

with Erica
thomaspomfrett 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Probably the best route I've ever done. Lead p4

with Ed Poulter, Pat Brien
Ginger McGrath 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

best hvs amazeballs

with rob, pete abernethy
Big Lee 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Route lived up to expectation. Led pitches 2 and 4. Anna's first proper HVS alt lead - get in there!

annak 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing. I'm still grinning.

Sardien 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Rich let me do P2 and 4. P4 is overwhelming. Superb!

Julian Prieto 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Started halfway up P1. Led P1, 3.

cliffy 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
a13x 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with John Phethean, Jordan Phethean
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Tony Ryland 03/Aug/13 AltLd

Led 1st and 3rd A bit windy, Steve had to reset runners on last pitch which had blown off

with Steve Barby
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead
Andrew1 02/Aug/13 2nd
with Hulda
pete87abs ?/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
with Graham, rob
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Double Knee Bar 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p2+4. Finally done it! Amazing.

Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
jcasey2436 18/Jul/13 2nd

Awesome and airy!

cbeard 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

As good as the hype which surrounds it! Abseiled in to base of P1 with a 60m rope.

tmawer 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Maz
MazElden 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Richard P Coates 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p3, seconded p2 and p4

dswansonlow 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Cool route but quite greasy and then it rained quite heavily for the final pitch, which made it more interesting!

useful 30/Jun/13 2nd

Climbed in the middle of the three. Brilliant climbing all along, such variation. John and Steve led, I was happy to rest my sore left shoulder and still have some fun.

with John M, Steve E
shed_hed 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Cool route. Looks quite tricky viewed from afar but all becomes obvious when on it. Lead P1, 2 and 3, Dougie led final pitch. Was quite greasy and started raining on P3. Final pitch was soaked by the time I climbed it which spiced things up a bit!

Tom Phillips 27/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with leo
Jillybean 20/Jun/13 AltLd
with Ben
Bennykr 20/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Finally done, total classic.

with JB
R0bbie 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with leighn
leighncsontos 17/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

As the Greek Goddess Nike once said, 'Just do it'

with R0bbie
KRB 11/Jun/13 Lead rpt

33 since last doing this climb in fine evening sunshine. Not so this time, but the howling gale and constant drizzle did nothing to detract from the absolute class of this route. Made sure that I over-protected the last pitch due to the greasyness of some sections only to then pull all the runners out as I took in the ropes leaving Chris with a nervy un-protected traverse. Payback for Vector!

with Chris Bridges
Alex.M-M. 10/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led: p.1/2, 4. Missed part of p.1. due to the tide. Climbed p.1/2 as a single pitch. Lives up to the hype, p.4. is something special.

KeenClimber 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Ron p1, me p2,3,4.

with Ron
piersnewton 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 and 3 lead

ollyroberts 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2+4

herman0055 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

really good climb the 4c crux felt a little harder but best route done to date

with John
georgedunton 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

did pitch 2 and 3 as one, Led these ones

with Mike W
Mike W 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Matt crawford ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Stunningly calm sea and weather, raped in and hoped across boulders at low tide. I went a bit off route on first pitch and ended up doing pitch 1 & 2 together. Wicked route!

with Taba
robgixer ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/13 AltLd rpt
Grabtheslab 30/May/13 AltLd

last pitch

Hidden 28/May/13 AltLd O/S
Rollo 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

I did P2 (did it in three pitches)

with Mike
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
mike.moss 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
gavinpeach 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Led all 4 pitches. Started on the ledge half way up pitch 1. Went too high on the traverse on pitch 2 and this ended up being the trickiest pitch. As far as the rest of the climb goes there are positive holds right the way across. The final pitch is a fantastic position.

with Kasia
kiks 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Marq 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Managed to ab right down to the bottom at low tide. About 70m from the abseil block. Neil, Stuart, me then Neil.

with Stuart (Neil's mate), Neil Redgrave (LMC)
stuaart 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Neil P1+P4, me P2, Mark P3. Climbing as a three made for hilarious amounts of exposure on the second and tetchy / gloriously cramped belays.

with marq, Neil Redgrave
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd
guy757 21/May/13 -
TheAndyBarker 07/May/13 AltLd
with Jonny Herbert
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Matt Cooke 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
Lev 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Steve Perry 04/May/13 Lead O/S


with Gethin
beckycoles 02/May/13 AltLd
Johnmuff ?/May/13 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Dan Geh 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Living the dream! My favourite HVS, straightforward climbing, just enough gear and tones of exposure!

Hidden 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Tightsgirl 25/Apr/13 AltLd

Brilliant evening sunshine. Amazing route

arose 25/Apr/13 Lead

place deserted after raining all morning - dried very quickly

Hidden 18/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/13 Lead
fletch540 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with joe flannagan
joeflan 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
AMJ098 ?/Apr/13 2nd
with Dan Geh
dj_brigham05 31/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 16/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 16/Mar/13 Lead
Robin Woodward ?/Mar/13 Lead dnf
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
jimxxx ??/2013 -
clarky_two ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
Dan Lane 24/Oct/12 Lead O/S

What a grand day out! I led every pitch, which made swapping over on the belays a bit of a faff. We started on the ledges about half way up P1. From there I linked the top half of P1 into P2. Almost ended up being a bit of an epic as Ash seconded the last pitch in the dark, waiting for the lighthouse beam to come around again so he could spot the holds! I found the start of (Guidebook) pitch 3 to be the crux. Not P2 at all. PS, because we finished in the dark we had to leave a few wires behind, if anybody gets they out I'd be grateful for their return. Happy to pay postage/beer tokens.

ashmellor 24/Oct/12 2nd

Fell at base of the final groove, good fun route

Tadams 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

2nd and 4th pitches. Excellent!

with Mark Challoner
Hidden 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lodge 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Lived up to all expectations, led pitches 1 & 3. The whole route is great fun even with water dripping down our necks at the back of the zawn. Certainly felt worth HVS to me, not the hardest at the grade by a long way but certainly worth more than VS. Just the sort of route you expect at Gogarth

with Steve
shaunhumphreys 13/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with Jem
Nick1812P 13/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Started about half way up P1, I led P1, 2 and 4

with Anna
Hidden 09/Oct/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 06/Oct/12 AltLd
Jim Slater 29/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
with David Brown, Graeme Hammond
Graeme Hammond 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with David Brown, Jim
jvarmstrong 22/Sep/12 AltLd

led p1&3

with Chris
Chris Manasseh 22/Sep/12 AltLd

Led 2 + 4. Did all 4 pitches. Breathtaking.

with John Armstrong
danimal88 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

sweet. pitch 2 had the hard move the rest lived up to expectations

with Mike Met office
jimmyrua 09/Sep/12 AltLd

tyler836 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with James 'The Econolist' Connoly, Peter Abernethy, David Brigham
dj_brigham05 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Very windy, raining and the icing on the cake.....the wind blew somebody's urine into my mouth. A stark contrast from my last visit but none the less outstanding.

pete87abs 09/Sep/12 AltLd rpt

outstanding as remembered, made better with 3 best friends

with james
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
martrin 05/Sep/12 AltLd
with Sarah Kekus
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Bruce Houston ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 31/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Led opposite pitches this time. 2 + 4

with Mike Kearney
Goodstuff 30/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led last pitch, Rob led 1st and 2nd. Wonderful!

with robandian
Hardcore Pat 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Money pitch

with Chris Vanderz
Souljah 26/Aug/12 2nd

Last pitch was soaking wet and id forgotten my chalk bag, which rather spiced things up! Unforgettable

with Andi T
djking1983 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Cool Route, Started from ledge of wen as high tide. Climbed as a 3 so took a while.

philhilo 19/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Thirty years after the last time on this one and still a good one. Last pitch pretty wet - and blowing around and up the zawn onto Helen on the belay - brrrrr!

with Helen E
Alex Mason 10/Aug/12 Solo O/S

Amazing. Perfect orange sunset muted the exposure. Almost.

Stephen Shaw 08/Aug/12 AltLd
with Ed
JamieSparkes 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

great fun, but harder than 4c! left a rucksack at the top of the final pitch, if anyone picks it up I'd be happy to pay P&P to get it back!

The Big Sender 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Liam Ingram 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Worth the hype! Led P2 + 4.

Hidden 06/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
pie_eater_pete 05/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 04/Aug/12 AltLd

led flake pitch

with pete sargeant
Chriswallis2 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
Dunx 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Joe M
Tim Bateman 21/Jul/12 Lead
with Jamie, Alistair Crawford
ben360 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
C Mclean 15/Jul/12 AltLd
with ben williams
Ollie B 07/Jul/12 AltLd

P2, P4. Quick hit (1 hr 45mins car to car) with bubbles. was boiling so the seepage on P4 helped cool things down.

with T.Ripley
Fred_Richard 07/Jul/12 AltLd

Awsome route in great condition! final pitch was still wet due to seeppage adding some extra excitement. Not that hard but very exciting!

with Pete
Jevans ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Fatherof2 ?/Jul/12 AltLd
with Roger
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Rob84 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Chris James
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
ellmang 17/Jun/12 Lead

Did high tide start, I did all 3 pitches with chris doing a slight redirect of final belay. final pitch was soaked due to heavy rain the day before. Awesome climbing :)

Hidden 17/Jun/12 2nd
greglad 10/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/12 AltLd
ushi 02/Jun/12 AltLd

Led pitch 2 and 4

with Andy Marshall
Hidden 01/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jun/12 -
duncandarnell ?/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
duncandarnell ?/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
cheeky 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

Absailed into the wrong point so had to climb wen to gain pitch 3.

mark4344 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

unable to boulder hop at base even at low tide. did pitch 1 of Wen before joining dream higher up. amazing exposure on top pitch.

with Matt Payne
Hidden 28/May/12 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great weather, great climb! Only people on the route. Led P2 and 4

with SCC
Richard Kinsman 27/May/12 Lead rpt

What a day! We were the only people on the slab all day. Perfect conditions and what a route! Awesome!!

with Melinda Kinsman
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd
andybirtwistle 26/May/12 Lead

Almost 29 years after I did it the last time with Ernie:)

with Keith Lonsdale
gripped01 19/May/12 AltLd
mikehenesy 17/May/12 AltLd O/S

spent a while finding the old equine thing but lasooed it in the end!! Helps if you go to the right car park of course. Three pitches, didn't abb to the bottom, getting to the abb along the skinny precipetous grass path was kin scarey! First pitch has a delicate move, I did the second which is a fantastic monkey romp up the diagonal crack and Percy grabbed the glory on the last.

with Percy
Hidden 07/May/12 AltLd O/S
minaturechris 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Worth the wait to do it. A great adventure around the zawn.

with Barra
drysori ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
matt0759 08/Apr/12 AltLd
with JamesA
Hidden 08/Apr/12 AltLd β
Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd
Maken 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Amazing Climb and an amzing place! 5 stars

BillyRidal ?/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Quite the outing, couldn't have had better weather. Need to do more sea cliffs.

Hidden 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 26/Mar/12 AltLd
with Sam
Hidden 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Brannock 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led first and third pitches, everything its reputed to be and more.

Scotsken 19/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
Hidden 12/Feb/12 AltLd rpt
Carter 12/Feb/12 AltLd dog

An eventful day out to say the least! After a day of droped nuts, belay plates and interesting toilet arangements we finished the final pitch iluminated by headtorches from the other side of the zawn. Will have to go back and do the final pitch when I can actually see the holds, but what an experience.

with Celyn, Job A
Drew M 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Very wet...

Hidden 12/Feb/12 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
jezb1 14/Jan/12 AltLd

Skipped P1, lead P2 & P4. What a great route, it deserves the hype! P4 sublime. Loads of gear.

Nick Nitro ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Helen Gibson ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -

I think it's 5a.

JonG ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Owen_P ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Dave Hill ??/2012 -
cymjt ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Anna duckett ??/2012 AltLd
with Nick Preistly
wi11 17/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

P 2&4 started on ledges. Went way too high on P2 and had to reverse it, should have know when it was getting tricky and everything was dusty. Really windy, my runners were all lifted horizontal by the wind on the last pitch! Looks improbable from the other side of the zawn but it is all there.

with Gwen L
Liam FLeming 07/Nov/11 -
with stuart lade, karen dalzell, Dan Jackson
tlmarjot 25/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Dad (Chris Marjot), James Marjot
adi bryant 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
nadeem 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Cheers for the advice DLyonsewing! I went and did it and found it quite notorious!!! very excellent.

with DLE
alexjz 15/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Matt Burdekin
Duncan Campbell 15/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led top half of p1+2, and p4. tricky traverse on p2, felt 5a. 4th pitch is absolutely mega though big jugs and big exposure!! Got an absolute hawl of crag booty! 2 draws, 3 wires and 2 slings! Enjoy...

HeatherF 15/Sep/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 15/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
chripstine 01/Sep/11 -
with Mav
Woodiee 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Literally Awesome!! That is all that needs to be said- DO IT!!

Hidden 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Martin Davies 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Matt Harris
Hidden 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead
ben1987 21/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome, well exposed, easy climbing. Not for the feint hearted!!!

Dizz 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with peter h, Yvonne
Stoney Boy 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Nick Conway
chedder 09/Aug/11 Lead
with Lee Wales
Clay C 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Jay
Jay C 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Clay C
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simon kimber 05/Aug/11 AltLd

led p3, done p1 and 2 before

with Ben Hirst
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/11 2nd
mary 01/Aug/11 2nd
with Dale Gautrey
Graham Westbrook 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Outstanding, when we found it. Led pitches 2 and 4. Easy climbing and well protected. Can't fault it.

with Courty
M_W_Court 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3

Hidden 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Rampikino 24/Jul/11 Lead
with Cat
Jen Crook 22/Jul/11 AltLd
stephenhartley 20/Jul/11 2nd
nickmattia 20/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
CRiddiford 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

me p2,4 john p1,3. Atmospheric when the tide's coming in, lovely route and the 1st pitch is worth doing!

with John
Hidden 13/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
simeclimb68 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dylan Burgess
John Lewis 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

led 2nd and 4th pitches

with Barra
psychicbread 09/Jul/11 AltLd

High tide start

with Max
coombsy 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

simply awesome

with John B
Exodus 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Daniel Heath 07/Jul/11 2nd β

A lot of fun, and a lot more serious than I had expected.

Hidden 07/Jul/11 2nd
mackay780 07/Jul/11 2nd O/S
metal arms 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 01/Jul/11 AltLd rpt

Pitch 2 for me today,great route conbined with airy feel and good climbing.

with Vinny
vinspin 01/Jul/11 AltLd β

lead pitch 2 and 4 Amazing!

with ritchie
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
Archibald ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

amazing and easy climb. First britain trip for us, we where very happy to climb this goal.

Andy Chubb 30/Jun/11 AltLd

Started from the ledge about half way up the first pitch as tide was high. Did it in three pitches from there

with Nick Gregory
fizzychewitt 26/Jun/11 AltLd

Led P2 and 4. What a great line!

with Jayne
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Cake 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P2,3,4 only. Led 2 and 4. Apprehensive abseiling down. Just on top of the arch, the sea got rougher to add to the thrill. P4 is a romp

with Jon
Gustav 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Wow! Great Route. Skipped pitch 1, led pitch 3. Owen led 2 and 4.

with Owen
Hidden 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 16/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with steve
Hidden 15/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Glyn 15/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Very windy!

Lawrie Brand 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Great last pitch..

with Jo
Hidden 11/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Luis SD 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Simon Allcock 02/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

i lead 3rd pitch

with Wilki
Hidden 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
duncandarnell ?/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
HeatherF 30/May/11 Lead O/S

Finally!!!!!! Lead the 1st and 3rd pitches, last traverse was awesome. A bit easier than i expected

tomdude 30/May/11 AltLd O/S
with shamonster
Tom Livingstone 30/May/11 AltLd O/S
rikbattye 28/May/11 AltLd O/S

First Gogarth visit!! What a place!

terri mc 28/May/11 2nd β

What an experience...Amazing!

with Rik Battye, Eddy
garywong 28/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3 & 4. Went too high on the third so had to add a precarious down-climb to get back on route. Bit battered and buffeted, but what an amazing final pitch.

rd20 28/May/11 AltLd dog

RD P2. P4 fantastic fun

with Gary
Matthew Robinson 28/May/11 -
with David
3 Names 27/May/11 AltLd O/S
givemetea 27/May/11 AltLd O/S

led P1 and P3 in an absolute hoolie

with Patrick
David Sherratt 24/May/11 Lead O/S
chrisdavies 21/May/11 AltLd O/S

nice climb, great top pitch, just would have been less freaky if the wind hadn`t been blowing a hoolie!!

with simon moore
Hidden 19/May/11 AltLd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/May/11 Lead

In a 3. Quite cold but still good.

with ClimbWebNet
crag_hopper_Jay 17/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/May/11 AltLd O/S
ellmang 14/May/11 2nd

started in the rain and finished in the dark... one of the best climbs i've ever done!

whiting.jp 14/May/11 AltLd
with jamesca
andi turner 13/May/11 AltLd

International Meet. First time I've done the route from the bottom. Made exciting by my partner's obsession with only placing tri-cams...and not many of them. He said he would have soloed it, I felt like I was ;o)

with Ioan from Romania
belay bunny turned bad 11/May/11 AltLd O/S
bullethead 08/May/11 AltLd O/S

Started from the notch. Lead P2

with Sam, Richard Yorke
Jim Gaffney 01/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd O/S
clairepoppett 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

Been on the tick list for too long and absolutely worth waiting for! I have some photos of the guys infront if you email me

with Jim Gaffney
Hidden ?/May/11 AltLd
haydng 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Pete Nugent 28/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

JV had not done before, I think this was my third (or more!) ascent. I led p1 & 3. Excellent climbing, the top pitch is truly amazing!

with John Venier
Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Pete S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Lead Concrete Chimney pitch into dream of white horses finish. Simply stunning exposure. hello gogarth! the worlds easiest scariest climb

Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Dafydd Llywelyn 11/Apr/11 AltLd dnf

Went off route... then had to abseil down as it started to rain. Then needed to yard up the (dynamic) abseil rope as neither of us had prussiks. Still, going to back to complete!

al99 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd
andy dunn 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Utterly superb!! J started from the ledge, I got the second and 4th pitches. Some quite varied climbing throughout and some absolutely awesome positions on the last pitch which I led at sunset (This just made the climbing feel even more special). The least said about J's traverse of the 4th pitch in the dark the better! An absolute classic and well deserving of 3*

with J
JRae 26/Mar/11 AltLd
with A Saul
Reaver2k 26/Mar/11 AltLd
with JRae
dan ely 24/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with tony (army)
surfboybert 16/Mar/11 AltLd O/S


with ewan brown, liam flemming
benchwarmer 16/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Bertie, Liam
tom.e 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

P2 of concrete chimney, p4 of dream.

Mr Powly 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
HenryCowan 13/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with James MacHaffie
MarekM ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
JEP ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
paul79 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
ColinD ??/2011 -
Gareth H ??/2011 -
tuftynick ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 -
with Stephen
HenryCowan ??/2011 Lead

best climb ever!

with James MacHaffie
Nick Nitro ??/2011 AltLd O/S
alasdair19 ??/2011 -

with Dad and matt also with Perry, not sure I've ever abbed right to the lowest point...

hilty 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Easy climbing started at notch as tides v high, led first and last pitch. Last pitch had water running down it but holds all there. Pitch being wet added to it. Great route, one of my faves!!!

Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd
lukas richardo 10/Oct/10 AltLd β

finally got it done. lead p2&4. very nice. high tides meant a shorter first pitch. my bad gear placements and poor rope work meant a 'special' final pitch for dave. respect due to him. an accomplished performance by dave. i cant and wont say the same for myself. it only took us 5 and half hours so we must be competent right? apologies to those following due.

with dave
owain86 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Led all pitches, awesome!

with Chris
chriscarroll 08/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Owain
Hidden 04/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
RCrockford 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

High tide start, lead all pitches. Awesome.

with Charlie
Hidden 13/Sep/10 Lead O/S
alek 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Mark D 11/Sep/10 AltLd
Laurence Everitt 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

lead the last pitch just before the rain started, great adventure.

Justin T 08/Sep/10 2nd
with Cherry
jayrenegade 05/Sep/10 AltLd

What a mission. Tried to do this the weekend before and nearly got benighted on the thing. Such an awesome route though, intimidating, but brilliant. Led P2 and P4

with Prav
Sankey 04/Sep/10 AltLd

Started low enough to do half of P1 rather than at the notch. Lead the flake pitch. The route fully lived up to its reputation.

with Luke
steven 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Simon did 1st and third pitch.

with Simon Holden
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Swifty
clipskipper 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

A good solid route and worth the trip, but not that hard for HVS. Also not worth the hype.

with John Orr
rustaldo 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

awesome climb, with deserved reputation..

with Al
al123 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

awesome climb, awesome exposure but not in a nasty way, great climb!!

with matt
Hidden 31/Aug/10 -
Hidden 31/Aug/10 AltLd β
PeteH 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
NaomiHart 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
clive-greenwood 26/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Started half way up pitch one at about 4pm. Topped out as sun set. Awesome. A goal for years.

with Anna
Hidden 25/Aug/10 AltLd
mark20 16/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led short pitch from ledge and 3rd pitch.

Sam1991 16/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Mark P1 and 3, Me P2 and 4. Superb climbing on all pitches, great position, wild exposure, never very hard, Lives up to its reputation IMO

with Mark
Neil Adams 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Done as the sun was setting to try to avoid the crowds.

with Andy N
Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd
Adam1973 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 4.

with John Carlin, Ann S
Sandy Simpson 14/Aug/10 -
with Ross Hewitt
Ann S 14/Aug/10 2nd

Started from Wen ledge. All belays very cosy with 3 of us. Used the triangling method with 3 ropes on the final traverse. Very amenable climbing in a stunning place. I was back man till the final pitch then sensibly went in the middle as I have ruled out any more epics.

with Adam and John C
John Carlin 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with anne shaw
Hidden 09/Aug/10 AltLd
masa-alpin 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Looked impossible when looking from the promontory, but turned out to be much easier -- technically. Absolutely awesome glorious route! Almost gone off route, at P3 and P4 at one stage, but the partner Graeme guided me well, so the price was just a bit of climbing back.

gb83 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S

absolutely gripping adventure. brilliant climbing, nothing too technical but almost all in exposed situations. The only negative was that my head was not in the right place and I was genuinely scared on this climb, although ironically by the final pitch I had got a grip of myself and actually quite enjoyed this brilliant climb. will definitely go back to lead. :)

with masa
HIGHTOWER 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day. Started from ledge so did short first pitch. Led pitch 1 and 3.

with Nikki
healeyduk 02/Aug/10 AltLd
jcook1980 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Jenny
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Jennyvs 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Jon Cook
Homes 31/Jul/10 AltLd
with Dan W
bigbobbyking 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Most intimidated climb I've ever done! Especially as it started raining on the last pitch!

with Chris Bull
dan-8990 20/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with TP
Tomprusk 20/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Wet, but still quite an experience! rather unique in position but there are better climbs at gogarth that seem neglected

with Dan C
Craig Geddes 13/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Noodles30 11/Jul/10 Lead
bwestwood 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

beautiful day beautiful climb, technically easy, situation amazing, got last pitch!

bsmedz 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
twright180 ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 28/Jun/10 AltLd
with Sarah, Dad
Moondance 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Guy Wilson 21/Jun/10 AltLd
with Paulo
pabbage 21/Jun/10 Lead
Trisha Murphy 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with rich
victim of mathematics 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 (from the ledges) & 3. Great climbing, but there's not much 4c, let alone 5a. A totally incredible line in an incredible place.

crossdressingrodney 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

The difficulties are all in your mind - two VS traverse pitches away from your ab line just to reach the start of the most intimidating HS pitch of your life!

Hidden 20/Jun/10 AltLd
d_meacher 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
tatz45 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.

Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
tomhull 18/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

started at the ledge, i lead the 1st and 2nd together. was scared abbing down cos it was my first sea cliff climb but as soon as i was tied in i had a stupid grin on my face from start to finish. fantastic route!!!

with mike thomas, sally wheatley
Jess patel 18/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
tigertim 17/Jun/10 AltLd dnf

CLimbed off route and ended up climbing out on Wen

with Melenie
Hidden 04/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Byronius Maximus 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

Great route, last pitch is good fun. Pratting about at the second belay waiting for the next pitch to clear was great fun!

Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Chris M 31/May/10 Lead
with rach d
Cardi 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

Wow! Abbed in due to tide and did as 3 pitches. Led P1 and P3

with Sam S
karmaclimbing 30/May/10 AltLd

dropped chalk bag into the sea. sat around for 1.5 hours on first belay ledge waiting for others to crack on. stop started a few times sat in very cramped belay ledge above others on the main ledge on concrete chimney after five hours my feet hurt so much and my hands were so soapy that i had to get a top rope up concrete chimney. good climb but the ending spoilt by nerves and definate fall on last pitch. led pitch 2 which was cool.advice...try and wait for a clear run at it or you will get belay cramp.!!!

Barry Kerslake 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Luke F
Nick Rundall 28/May/10 Lead rpt
with Jon Taylor
Dr Toph 09/May/10 AltLd O/S

First Gogarth route. Led P2+4. Got a bit lost on the slab due to hypothermia, which made it extra spicy. Last pitch is amazing - "It cant possibly go through there?"

with Ed
Hidden 08/May/10 Lead O/S
vincentvega 03/May/10 AltLd

Climbed in 3 pitches from V notch.

with danny robb
ig248 03/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Philip, Kane
Hidden 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
decs 01/May/10 AltLd

Cheeky late evening ascent. Walls glowing in the sunset. Hazzah!

with Bart
carlh ?/May/10 AltLd rpt
tobydunford 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden 20/Apr/10 -
willson 16/Apr/10 AltLd

Started half way up first pitch.

with ben
Ewan Russell 15/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

abseiled in wrong place so did first pitch of wen to start. I then lead third pitch of dream.

with ed-v12
Hidden 15/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 03/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1 and 3

with DW2
Dale ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

The last pitch is brilliant, it was wet when I did it made it more fun

with Tim
evyasb ?/Apr/10 -
stuart34 27/Mar/10 2nd
with James Monypenny
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
mcgrathr ??/2010 AltLd
thebigeasy ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
sionjosh ??/2010 -
philw ??/2010 -
Microwired22 ??/2010 -
sionjosh ??/2010 AltLd
soph ??/2010 -
eugeneth 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

led 1st and 3rd pitch

with Seb
sebrider 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Living the dream ;) !

RachelP 25/Sep/09 2nd
with Jamie
theotherpetehill 18/Sep/09 AltLd

Led P3 (we didn't climb the first pitch up from the sea)

chrisallan 18/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
troutbeck 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with A.M.
surfbish 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

As the fourth pitch loomed I became more and more intimerdated but leading it was one of the greatest experiences of my climbing life. If you get the chance get on it.

with Tom
Dave Mason 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Trev Tatler
Lawrence Eccles 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with A. Crook
leon 22/Aug/09 AltLd

lead 2nd and 4th pitch. the rib on the 4th pitch was very wet and water was raining down onto it due to drainage. got cold from wen stance onwards.

with Chris Munton
Ken Applegate 17/Aug/09 AltLd

Led pitches 1 and 3. It took us 4 attempts to finally get on this route, but definitely worth it!

with Alex Wheldon
pebbles 13/Aug/09 2nd

:-D, :-D started from pitch 2

with guido
Hidden 09/Aug/09 -
david morse 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with mikey R
melonmike 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/09 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
godusty 02/Aug/09 2nd
davidwright 01/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

lead 2 and 4

with Simon B
KeenClimber ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Jim Nutall, Lee Healey
Dave Searle 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S


with ben
mulletcocktail2000 22/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

very excitable seas! sarted from a hanging belay below the chimney. traversed too high! much harder than hvs. good route all the same with fantasic final pitch.

with john
jored 22/Jul/09 AltLd
with Ryan
Dave Foster 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

P2 and P4. It's all about the last pitch!

with Andy
kevg 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Abbed in and then waited 2 and a half hours(!) on belay ledge before we could start climbing. Rained a bit but the climbing was good in a stunning position.

with Craw
lithos 18/Jul/09 AltLd

P2 + P4, got there just in time, sorry about that delay guys (hanging belay for me), Paul had a bit of route finding issues. P4 was dripping which made it interesting !

with cookie
Brendan 17/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Seconding a damp P4 in fading light and topping out to an orange sunset will be one of my abiding climbing memories.

with Paul
37degrees 12/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Super Good

with J.Baker
Hidden 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Andrew1 01/Jul/09 Lead
with Juliet Parker Smith
AdrianP ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Great adventure. Had difficulties finding the ab block, when all you have to do is follow the fairly exposed path at the top of the crag.

with Olli
Hidden 29/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Kirill 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

didnt climb the first pitch, started from the notch, paul led the final pitch

Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
pete87abs 15/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Do it! amazing!

dj_brigham05 15/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
AMarchant 08/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route

with Anthony Eccles
tommytuffa 04/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Awesome weather, superb route

with luketheape, Nick Smith
lukehunt 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
nic42 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom, Luke
John Roe 03/Jun/09 AltLd

led pitches 2 & 4, in the shade till 2pm

Hidden 03/Jun/09 AltLd
GScot38 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
mugglewump ?/Jun/09 AltLd

Brilliant route, just don't inspect it from the opposite head land if you are nervous about it as our Irish friends did and then bottled it. James did the awesome last pitch

with me and bro
steve prior ?/Jun/09 AltLd
with Andy C
Hidden 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
mustgetstronger 29/May/09 AltLd O/S
jibberingwreck 29/May/09 AltLd O/S

As three piches as we abseiled in to the top of Pitch 1. I led Pitch 2 and 4. Excellent adventure!

Hidden 29/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/09 AltLd O/S
cmsg 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
jelaby 24/May/09 AltLd O/S

As three pitches, starting from the ledge higher ledge. Led P2.

with cmsg
Em66 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Mat
Hidden 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
uncontrollable 24/May/09 AltLd O/S

topped out just before sunset, beautiful climb

with Viskii
AJM 23/May/09 AltLd O/S

A wild and windy day, very atmospheric. Toms runners on the last pitch were being blown horizontal by the updraft...

Hidden 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 21/May/09 AltLd rpt
with Vincent Canova
Hidden 19/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/09 Lead O/S
smudge 12/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Jim Slater 03/May/09 AltLd O/S

Missed out pitch 1, Led P2+P4. Fantastic experience, the final pitch is just out there!

Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead
CharlieMack 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Really good climb, tho arrived without guidebook or knowledge of where the route went, purely going off remembering photos seen on UKC! adventurous experience to say the least!

with Matt Watkins
maybe_si 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

over graded and over rated??

with jez
Hidden 24/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Si dH 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Got to the crag by 845 hoping to eb first on the route - and werent. Queuedbehind two parties who both got off-route, and ended up on the route, mostly in the cold shade, for 8 hours (9-5!). It was good though and we still got Concrete Chimney done afterwards. I led pitches 1 and 3.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Becky E 11/Apr/09 2nd

Fabulous climbing every step of the way.

Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
mic_b 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with James Blake
Hidden 10/Apr/09 2nd
vanderz 10/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve Fletcher
Tommy G 04/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Memorable lead that I have been saving for while. Good to do it as a father son team and definitely one of my top climbing highlights. Also enjoyed the glass of Innis and Gunn we had after. Check it out. : )

with Dad
Jez ?/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
matiyam 27/Mar/09 AltLd
AJ007 23/Mar/09 AltLd
ritchierich 20/Mar/09 AltLd rpt

Started from V groove and I did 3 pitch. Get there early because it gets busy.

Hidden 20/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
gripped01 ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Tomczynski
ste19 ??/2009 AltLd O/S

semi epic:i took 3rd pitch to realize i couldent set up the belay,so i had to climb back and let mark lead it instead.its a completely different experience in the zawn.mind blowingly beautifull,exposed,and superbly excellent.my most favourite route so far

with mark
antarcticfox ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Mark Lawton
Kenemo ??/2009 -
Kenemo ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Johnny Baker ??/2009 AltLd

Big windy day sea running like in Leos photo

with Matt Knapp
Hidden ??/2009 -
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
windy100 ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
plain kitten ??/2009 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Bristoldave 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S
CarolineH 15/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Dave
nigel pearson 02/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

We had waited for over a year before our visit coincided with good conditions. A fantastic adventure climbed in the November sun.

with Robin
leadmat ?/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Carly 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Richard
ritchierich 24/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lower section of pitch one very damp so started from small ledge just over halfway of pitch 1. Lead pitches 2 and 4. Fantastic climbing but gear placements poor on pitch 2 and a nice rusty peg on old tat as your best runner :(

with Bob Dickson
Hidden 16/Sep/08 AltLd
Hjort 14/Sep/08 AltLd dnf

Hit by falling rock, so bailed after first pitch.

with Gareth Buckley
Hidden 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
dts 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

“Wow...” That’s probably the only word that describes that super exposed final pitch!

with Andy Taylor, Sam Dixon
Sam1991 30/Aug/08 AltLd β

Abbed too far, started from wrong ledge system, ended up off route. Finished on P4 of dream though (best pitch and my lead :D First HVS, loved it.)

with Andy and Dan
jeffb 29/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

What a fantastic route and ste a great partner. Cheers dude.

with stemill
stemill 29/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Jeff
juza 23/Aug/08 2nd
with Garry Cooper
Stewart B 07/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Started at around half 6 or so in a break in the persistent drizzle. Got rained on after the first pitch till the end and ended up topping out in the dark. Brilliant! Superb atmosphere on the route.

with Chris Everett
James B 28/Jul/08 AltLd
with Nick
OffshoreAndy 25/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Jade
Hidden 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/08 AltLd
John Kettle 04/Jul/08 AltLd
tonanf ?/Jul/08 AltLd

got stuck, climbed down and round hard move. route running with water, wearing heavy ruck sack.on half gear as 2nd 2nd, excellent!!!

with bryan and john sun
jimsrankin ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with John
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Tim W 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd and 4th pitch

Hidden 09/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
gareth scott borthwick 06/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

missed low tide so couldn't climb first pitch, i led 2nd pitch and phil lead 3rd and 4th

with phil
porridgefan 06/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Missed the first pitch due to tides: Gaz: pitch 2 Me: pitch 3 and 4 The guidebook also ended up in the sea...

with Gareth Borthwick
Hidden 04/Jun/08 AltLd
sgl 02/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Susie
Alex Thompson 25/May/08 2nd O/S

Great Fun!! Final pitch not as intimidating a first appearences. Started off up Wen crack then back on route.

Hardonicus 25/May/08 Lead O/S
bfreeman 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Marjot
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd O/S
ingo 20/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jeremy
Tom Eagle 19/May/08 AltLd

Awesome - most bizarre and atmospheric climb ever! I'll be back to do this one again...

with skygod78
Abi Chard 19/May/08 AltLd O/S

So wanted this climb. Led the second and fourth pitches - must go back and lead the others.

with Ian
Hidden 15/May/08 AltLd
climbingpixie 11/May/08 Lead O/S

Tide too high to do first pitch. Led all other pitches.

with James
Hidden 11/May/08 AltLd O/S
Calder 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

with Gail in the middle. We missed out Pitch 1, I led the 3rd pitch and the exit up the groove.

@ndy 05/May/08 AltLd O/S
with calder
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
richardr ?/Apr/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd
tlmarjot ?/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Ben Freeman
nige 16/Feb/08 Lead
with sven rowan
Hidden ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
ian caton ??/2008 AltLd

Third time.

with Abi
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2008 -
peter myers ??/2008 AltLd
with Jaap Overtoom
Gibson27 ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Just pure brillant!

Hidden ??/2008 -
Andy Graham ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Started from notch. I lead pitches 1 and 3. Fantastic Route. I want to get on it in violent weather.

with Tony Liddy, Dan Liddy, Steve Anderson
Hidden 09/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Owen_P 05/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

awesome sunny day, climbed with Sam. Last pitch is fantastic! highly recommended however first few pitches are a bit indistinct.

with Sam Corcoran
Rachel Somerville 29/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

led 1st 2 pitches, Des led last 2.

with Des Chadderton
Hidden 29/Sep/07 AltLd
thomaspassmore 27/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Ben Pryke
Misha ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/07 AltLd
scorky345 ?/Sep/07 AltLd
with Owen Pearce
Rampikino 25/Aug/07 AltLd
with Mark Hills
Hidden 25/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 03/Aug/07 AltLd rpt
Rich Mayfield 03/Aug/07 AltLd

With Gaz Parry in high winds and heavy rain.

Brian Wilderspin 02/Aug/07 AltLd

Repeated after many years.

with Tony Clifford
Bella ?/Aug/07 Lead β
with Paula
toasted 30/Jul/07 AltLd
with Steve Thomas
Tobias at Home 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

went off-route on first pitch - left Mun with delightfuly unprotected downclimb. last pitch was dripping.

with Mun
Hidden 12/Jul/07 Lead O/S
featuresforfeet 29/Jun/07 AltLd rpt

Lead P1 & P3 this time.

SecretSquirrel 29/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Awesome route.

ChalkBall 04/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 04/Jun/07 AltLd
DuckingFesperate ?/Jun/07 AltLd
dan gibson 27/May/07 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
featuresforfeet 12/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Clive M
spum 05/May/07 AltLd
with gareth
beds74 05/May/07 AltLd

I did 1st/Last pitches. Tricky rope work practice to protect the last pitch round the zawn. Beautiful route.

with Karl Bromelow, Craig Hartley
seemore 28/Apr/07 AltLd

1st and last pitched lead. Missed out lower section of the climb

with Sam Cots
Mattyk 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches.. abbed into start of 2nd.. what can i say! Amazing route.. picks a line through the impossible, easy climbing amazing situation! 6*'s

with Mo
phil hay 12/Apr/07 AltLd β

Expossed,Sunny,Windy quite easy climbing for grade but absolutly fantastic cant wait to repeat.

with andy higginbottom
Nicos 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
barni ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Omar
jonnie3430 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Started spitting at end of 3rd pitch, looked at alternative of Concrete Chimney to escape, but did 4th pitch as it was easier. Stonking route.

with Nikki
matiyam ?/Mar/07 AltLd

Wonderful climb!!

with Dave
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
mux ??/2007 AltLd

twice now, both low level start and the traverse

with Adam
tumbling wizard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
jrace70 ??/2007 2nd O/S

just wow!!

Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Andrew Sloan 07/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Have waited years to do this...well worth it.Led 2nd and 4th pitches.

Martin Haworth 07/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S
JGW ?/Sep/06 -
shoulders 03/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
shoulders 03/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
spacey 28/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
simonbarrow 28/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Couldn't find a suitable (non fright inducing) belay in concrete chimney on pitch 2- carried on round the corner, and hung there. Excellent, relatively easy climbing, in an awesome place. A great birthday present!

with spacey
Hidden 26/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
George Ormerod 20/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. Led last pitch

with Roger and Kris
Stig 04/Jul/06 AltLd rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
kjbix 03/Jul/06 AltLd

Fantastic climb

with Richard Beech
Will1 ?/Jul/06 -
with Mike
Ed Booth 13/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 13/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Tom M Williams 07/Jun/06 AltLd

awesome, first big HVS! Took 2nd and 4th pitch

with Andy Hobson
Hidden 07/Jun/06 AltLd
reg_measures 06/May/06 AltLd O/S
with timmy elson
Hidden 28/Apr/06 AltLd
centurion05 ??/2006 Lead O/S


with Dan Carroll
beardy mike ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Frank Medina
King Rat ??/2006 AltLd
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Phil Abram
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Pete Graham ??/2006 AltLd
with Dave Morris
Hidden ??/2006 -
TimTaylor1980 ??/2006 Lead dog
Ben Wolstenholme ??/2006 -
jamiev 22/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
with stephen pritchard
Seb31 ?/Oct/05 2nd O/S
with Andrey
spidey 29/Aug/05 AltLd
Hidden 16/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
jimbonfire 11/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Got to be one of the best HVS in the Uk, amazing exposed climbing..

Nathan Kemp ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ?/Aug/05 -
with Dunc
Duncan I ?/Aug/05 -

Bank Holiday weekend and blowing a gale - we had the crag to ourselves

with ArnaudG
Dave Reeve ?/Aug/05 Lead
with Clare Pastorius
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 17/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Led the pitch before the final one.

with Jim
Hidden 17/Jul/05 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jul/05 AltLd rpt
nutty_didz ?/Jul/05 2nd
with Callum Hart
jamie ward 29/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Tom Skipworth
Howard J 18/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! We started at sea level and I led the second pitch (ie the first traversing pitch)

GPN ?/Jun/05 AltLd
Iggy_B ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Pete H
Pythonist ?/May/05 Lead O/S

Done years ago - terrific route. Even more exciting due to (1) having to make up the belays in the middle of pitches because of crowds and (2) my left shoe taking a suicide dive off the belay at the end of pitch two...

with Nick Shuttleworth
Christian Beck ?/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
John Kettle ??/2005 AltLd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Ian Andrews ??/2005 AltLd O/S


with Fran Gowling
Peter Smith ??/2005 AltLd
with Mick Leather
stuc ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Conan ??/2005 AltLd O/S

Best HVS I've done. The 1st pitch from the sea was certainly 5a and well worth getting the tides right to ab all the way down to do it. 4c for the rest

with Howard Jones
marcoleptic ??/2005 Lead
with Ben, Pete
Siderunner ??/2005 AltLd β

Led p2&4, omitted p1 as very very windy and wild seas. Amazing atmosphere with huge suds of foam flying up the cliff past us.

with Alex B
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Drew Withey
Mark Brightwell 15/Nov/04 2nd dnf

Crazy conds. Chris Warner attempted P1 but was getting blown off and retreated. We escaped via easier climbing next to ab

mikeyjbs 26/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with hans allnut, simon ball, farrow
Hidden 10/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Sep/04 Lead
with Tim Davies
Hidden 13/Aug/04 AltLd
Norman_P_W 13/Aug/04 AltLd
with Bob M
leerybunny ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Matt Thompson
johnboyrevel ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Faye
fayehughes ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden 17/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
Sandy P ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Guy Couper-Marsh
Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd
timreynolds 19/Jun/04 AltLd
with Martin Hoather
Ben1983 ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 AltLd
davebrox ?/Jun/04 AltLd

Summer rain storm as i led out the final pitches, water running down into the concrete chimney where they were belayed!!

with nikki and james
r0b 24/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

High-tide start, I did the 1st and 3rd pitches

with Mark Humphries
Mark A Humphries 02/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

High tide on-sight of 2nd and 4th pitches. Led the 3rd pitch clean with Rob Harper on 24/04/04

with Nick Barrowclough
Stig ?/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

My first real ambition in climbing fulfilled. Led P1 and 3.

with Jonathan Teale
Hidden 07/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
dicky79 ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Mike Bottomley
IanMulvany ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Donal Whooly
chris wyatt ??/2004 AltLd
red1200 ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
Gman ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Awesome position with reasonable climbing.

with James
lukea 27/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Al
Robbie H 26/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Not including pitch 1 (high tide!)

with Mark Harrison
Hidden 17/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Urgles ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Paul Winder
JulesV ?/Jul/03 AltLd
James B 29/Jun/03 AltLd
with Phil
Hidden 29/Jun/03 AltLd rpt
John Pickles 18/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Tim Blakemore
Marti999 ?/Jun/03 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd
kp64zl ?/Jun/03 AltLd
Brown ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden 22/Feb/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/03 AltLd O/S
Jon Pilling ?/Feb/03 2nd O/S

AMAZING CLIMB Benighted on Pitch 4

with steve prescott
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
akhughes ??/2003 AltLd
IanMulvany ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Conor Burns
andy wa ??/2003 AltLd
with matt dalby
Leo Woodhead ??/2003 2nd dog

What an awesome climb. It was one of the very first outdoor climbs I ever did! My brother took me on it and he lead it! Can't wait to go back now I am more experienced!

with Barney Woodhead
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 AltLd

as good as the hype

with Steve Hastings
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2003 -
Gus 15/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/02 2nd O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Sep/02 Lead

Did the high tide start.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 19/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
chrishedgehog ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Dan Bailey
Billg ??/2002 AltLd
with Megan Beaumont
Dave Bond ??/2002 Lead
with Adrian Whitehall
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
PaulTanton ?/Nov/01 AltLd O/S
Northen Vince 18/Oct/01 AltLd O/S
with James
Trobbo 15/Jul/01 AltLd
with martin bennett
CrashMat Rob 14/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Hidden ??/2001 -
rockofades ??/2001 Lead rpt
with DB
DavidR 25/Jul/00 -
with John Marston
Hidden 22/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
Mark Riley ?/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Greenall
Laramadness ?/May/00 AltLd O/S
with RF
Alastair Hudson 01/Jan/00 Lead O/S
with Ian McNicoll
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd O/S
RossG ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Phil T
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
VPJB ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -

Cold autumn morning, early start to beat the crowds.

alpinismo.uk ??/2000 -
Alastair Hudson ??/2000 AltLd O/S

Storm Approaching...

with Ian McNicoll
Normunds ??/2000 2nd
Phil West 31/Jul/99 AltLd O/S

Did high tide version by abbing to the notch. I led pitches 1 and 3 (crux).

with Steve Wild
cem 26/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
with Neville Bonham
RobSimmo 01/Jun/99 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Came back to do this after looking at it and running away about 3 months before!

kato'sdad 01/Jun/99 AltLd
A Crook 16/May/99 AltLd O/S

Brilliant, Fell off final pitch though

jfmchivall ?/Apr/99 AltLd O/S
dickypips ??/1999 AltLd O/S

john led last pitch

with john richards
Chad123 ??/1999 AltLd O/S


with Greg
Darragh ?/Aug/98 Lead

Colm enjoyed a satisfying view of the ferry he was supposed to travel home on.

with Colm
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Aug/98 AltLd O/S


with Richard Bower
Hidden ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/98 AltLd
IanGilbertJones 02/May/98 AltLd O/S
Rock Fairy ?/May/98 2nd

I started to lead after seconding this :)

with Carl
petekeron ?/May/98 2nd O/S


with Alex Binks
nickdonohue 14/Feb/98 AltLd

very windy, wet and cold. Classic! Superb!

with Mark McCarthy
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Brian Rodgers ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with Dave Oldacres
VisionSet ??/1998 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Dec/97 AltLd
Hidden 12/Jul/97 2nd
craig h 05/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
Chris Ellis 04/Jul/97 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
cornishben ?/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with Andy Connor
Paul Boardman ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
Phill Mitch ??/1997 Lead O/S
with gaz
datoon ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Richard Toon
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Sep/96 AltLd

In the middle of the night with headtorches - fun!

with Jamie Fisher, Muir Morton
Tim Bateman 17/Aug/96 AltLd
with Paul McMahon
Dave Rumney 07/Jul/96 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
alkira ??/1996 -
WB ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
GuyM ??/1996 AltLd
with will
robtrooper ??/1996 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/95 Lead
sdawson1 09/Aug/95 2nd rpt

Classic, including my luminous leggings and tea cosy clava !

with JB
Colin Edwards ?/Jul/95 Lead
with Steve Cox
colin milton 06/Jun/95 AltLd O/S

missed out p1 due to heavy seas.

with eric milton
Graham Booth ?/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 26/May/95 AltLd
with Julie Bond
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/95 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
ColdAndWet ??/1995 -
NeilGriffiths 27/Nov/94 -
with Paul Tucker
shark ?/Nov/94 AltLd
Mathias Willerup ?/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with Fred Willerup
andyblain ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Colin Edwards ??/1994 -
with Steve Cox
Mickdenali ??/1994 -
with Keith Biddle
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 AltLd
with Kat
Okecroak 31/Jul/93 AltLd
with M Mercy
Okecroak 31/Jul/93 AltLd
with M Mercy
Hidden 19/Jun/93 AltLd rpt
frost ?/May/93 AltLd
Hidden 04/Apr/93 AltLd
malc 10/Aug/92 AltLd
with N Boyd
kp64zl ?/Aug/92 AltLd
with Jason M
Hidden ?/Jul/92 AltLd
Grezza ?/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Mick RIP
mattnuttall ?/Jun/92 AltLd O/S


with Alan Holden
pingora 23/May/92 Lead O/S
with A Blair
auld al ?/May/92 AltLd O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/92 AltLd
with Paul Kallmes
Hidden 19/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 01/Mar/92 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
steve taylor ??/1992 AltLd O/S

Simply awesome climbing and positions for the grade.

with steve kerr
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
biggianthead 15/Sep/91 -
with HT
Hidden ?/Aug/91 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/91 AltLd O/S
with D Picker
Hidden 14/Jun/91 AltLd
Mick King 25/May/91 AltLd

Lead p2

with Pete Hankinson
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
nai ??/1991 AltLd
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
prcleary ??/1991 -
Gudge ??/1991 AltLd O/S
with MUMC
brianrunner ?/Sep/90 2nd

climbed after a hail shower. superb place and hope to return

with roger
Hidden 22/Aug/90 AltLd O/S
tlr 18/Aug/90 AltLd
with Fin
sadams ?/Jul/90 Lead
with Mark Bonham
Hidden 30/Jun/90 2nd O/S
Babika ?/May/90 2nd

From sea level belay

with Mark Jones
Hidden 24/Apr/90 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 10/Apr/90 AltLd
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 10/Apr/90 AltLd rpt
with David
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
philhilo ??/1990 -
philhilo ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 Lead
Pete_Frost ??/1990 AltLd O/S
with George Manley
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/89 -
BigHairyIan 20/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with Alan Lilley (Thug)
michael burrows 28/May/89 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
John HW ??/1989 Lead

Date lost in the mists of time but climbed before Ben born.

with Julie
richparry ??/1989 -
Gambit ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Barney
phardman 19/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with John Gratton
goi.ashmore 15/Jun/88 2nd O/S
with Dave Forster
Budge ?/Jun/88 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Hidden 19/Mar/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Tony Buckley ?/Nov/87 AltLd

Had it to ourselves on a grey November Saturday. Marvellous! Started from the notch as the tide was in. Nothing on the climb seemed as un-nerving as the scramble down the gully at the start.

with Richard Brockman
Hidden 24/Oct/87 -
Ched 17/Sep/87 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Phil Ingle 16/Aug/87 2nd
eroica64 11/Jun/86 Lead

Ah. A blissful excursion into paradise. Ed Ward-Drummond masterpiece.

with John Graeme
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/86 -

Alt leads but have repeated the climb twice since.

with Bob Anderson
John Marsland 09/Mar/86 AltLd
with Tony Rex and Mike Searle
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
keefe ??/1986 -
Hidden 29/Sep/85 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/85 AltLd
Richard Weller 11/Jul/85 AltLd
with john sanders
beaumap 06/Jun/85 Lead
with Bernie Green
Hidden 02/Mar/85 AltLd
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
Gezzer ??/1985 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
MikeYouCanClimb 27/May/84 Lead O/S
with Adam
Gezzer ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Derek Shaw
Gezzer ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Ron Inverarity
Gezzer ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Emily Cooper
Lone Rider ??/1984 AltLd
with John Christie
Roy Stuart ??/1984 AltLd O/S
with Billy Bones
Hammy 14/May/83 AltLd
with Ian Barker
nigehughes ?/Apr/83 AltLd
with Alec Pirrie
Hidden ?/Apr/83 -
Robmwatt ??/1983 -
Hidden ??/1983 2nd
Andy Fielding 26/Aug/82 AltLd
with Mike Gilbert
Nigel Coe 13/Jun/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
AlanLittle ?/Jun/82 AltLd
with Dave Hayward
Bob 30/May/82 AltLd O/S
with M. Lynch
steveboote ??/1982 Lead

With Liz Perriolet

charlesmfrench 07/Nov/81 AltLd O/S


with Ian Milne
babymoac 12/Jul/81 Lead
with Paul R
Andy Chubb 27/Jun/81 AltLd
with Geoff Barker
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 AltLd
Andy Fielding 31/Jul/80 AltLd
with Tom Benson
TonyF ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
with Tony Cox
mike bridges 19/Apr/80 AltLd O/S

Did in the afternoon after doing Cenotaph Corner in the morning.I led pitches 2&4. After abbing and pulling the ropes down,it suddenly hits you that this is the easiest route hereabouts and you`re going to need a cool head!Brilliant route and such a buzz to climb, got bad rope drag on final top out!

KRB 19/Apr/80 AltLd O/S

Absolute classic done in beautiful evening sunshine after doing Cenotaph Corner in the dull morning. One of the most memorable climbing days I've had. Brilliant.

with Mike Bridges
Nigel Coe 22/Mar/80 -
with Frank Farrell
Mike Owen 10/Feb/80 -
with Phil Ralph
Ian Jones ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
PaulHermes ??/1980 -
robinsi197 ??/1980 AltLd
with Barbara
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Nevil ?/Nov/79 Lead
with Steve
Hidden 11/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
Brian Wilderspin 03/Apr/79 AltLd

Starting from seal level

with Jim Gilchrist
Hidden ?/Nov/78 AltLd O/S
rogerskews 23/Oct/78 AltLd

Stolen from an incoming storm early Monday morning, and supposed to be at work!

with Keith Jenkins
mikej 15/Sep/78 AltLd
with Mike Byles
neilh ?/Aug/78 Lead
with unknown american
Brian Wilderspin ?/Jun/78 AltLd

Traversed in

with Chris Hindley
Hidden 13/May/78 AltLd
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Andy Say ??/1978 Lead
Chris Terrey 22/Oct/77 Lead
with Roger Wilson
Mark Kemball 17/Aug/77 Lead
with Sarah Bridge, George Mumford
Ken Taylor 10/Jul/77 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
jmr ?/Mar/77 AltLd
uphillnow ??/1977 AltLd

Had seconded the route on a very cold day just after it was put up with Nigel Helliwell (Feb 1969?)Nigel pulled a hold off whilst on the last pitch, just before the moves up - dropped some distance.

with Al Bennett
Hidden 02/Jul/76 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/76 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/76 AltLd
steve L 18/Apr/76 Lead
with Steve Bonus
GeoffG 16/Apr/76 Lead
with nigel goddard
Rob Davies 01/Apr/76 AltLd

Started from small ledge 50' above sea. At end of day Charlie ran out of fuel - had to help push car back to Holyhead!

with Charlie Heard (CUMC)
D Tempest ?/Jan/76 Lead

Uni' years

Marcus ??/1976 -
with Roger Stokes
tapley 12/Oct/75 AltLd
with John Sumner
RichardMc 18/Sep/75 Lead
with Betty Seifert
RichardMc 17/May/75 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Bolt Phobia 16/Apr/75 2nd
with Dave Williams
Hidden ?/Apr/75 AltLd
Falko 11/Sep/74 Lead O/S

We dispensed with three aid pegs which were then in current use. Roger did well.

with Roger Edwards
oyster1283 ?/Aug/74 2nd O/S

I did this climb early in my career on a warm summer Sunday after doing White Slab the day before. It lived up to its name. A fabulous climb.

johno072 ?/Jul/74 Lead
Hidden ??/1974 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 28/May/73 AltLd
with Mike Butler
pneame ?/May/73 AltLd O/S
with Bill Douglas
greenbuoy 08/Aug/70 2nd

An ascent on a beautiful sunny day;VERY impressed by the final pitch.

mikej 31/Mar/70 AltLd

On an earlier visit to Wen Zawn I had seen a leader pull a block out of the finishing chimney, which put me off this route for a while.

with Pete Boardman
mikej 28/Mar/70 AltLd dnf

Abseiled in but too stormy and had to retreat.

with Pete Boardman
Tony Holdsworth 01/Jan/70 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Chubbs, tim123487, mzk, ruthieie, OllyT, Hidden, Hidden, ssstrick, petersheppard, philmitch, Hidden, kingjam, mishabruml, Hidden, atom, lem, Hidden, GordonAinslie, Hidden, Hidden, bazthomas, EyebrowTom, Sciguy, BareBears, Hidden, sam@work, Hidden, darrenpp, Cendius, edhawk21, Hidden, NicShorty13, Hidden, CGDStewart, Hidden, mapperley samurai, Emma Reynolds, Robaduck, Meddins, Jeannie, Hidden, Stevie989, maddy92, Hidden, Sam Husband, khalidq, Hidden, pugilistswine, dapperdan, CaelanB, Hidden, Stickle Tarn, Hidden, Hidden, SamanthaRoach12, WeeLee, Doad13, beakerburgess, smollett, Burty21, Hidden, D Berry, Hidden, Matthew Martin Wsm, mesmiller, hodge192, Hooo, iainsanderson, Erynsmum, AdamPrzeslak, chrisclimber, Ana Broad, Hidden, Annabel Tall, hutchay, sara n, Hidden, drolex, adamraymondwhite, karlb, Hidden, erbridger, Stroppy, JRJones, malk, nickhayes007, anguskille, spenser, rockover, Keith Swainson, Hidden, callumbtaylor, darcan, monkeyman79, Hidden, Lucylou19, ItsHuwHaribo, climbEdclimb, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, islandlynx, Snorfalorpagus, Jam_sandwich, TB30, Hidden, Eoinparker, Hidden, Hidden, Retro Rowan, josh Bamsey, MatthewH, TommyMcG, Jack Whiteley, thom_jenkinson, Hidden, oscaig, dantheoptimist, Andy Campbell, Pete Sanger, Hidden, Richardlake, Paul Hy, dtalbot, HumphreyJ20, Valentino, CMCM, damob123, Julesthe1st, Motown, WhipperSnapper, afern, Steve Jones, andrewmcleod, JossGuyer, Hidden, Craigyboy13, Fraser hill-casey, johnkeith, StaffsAndy, Hidden, alp79, dhavenhand, roblanddrum, Hidden, DanChad, Hidden, Freshprintce, Hidden, Hidden, Nath93, lydiag, widdlestickmcpoos, BenFitzG, escostar, Dougbart, Turkey Stephenson, cjd91, Hidden, Munir Hassan, leeboy1985, Hidden, mussonlr, Hidden, gurumed, jsw1, Paul Collins, Hidden, samuel.stevens, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, humptydumpty, alexanderjwatts, B4tgirl, Joemanglerocks, knighty, BenedictIEP, Ronan O Keeffe, bendevonport, Beezy, Hidden, Swampi, rob16, Mad Hatter 1988, Hidden, climbing son, Hidden, Permia, Hidden, Dan Hostford, Col Kingshott, Hidden, kenneM, Spooner2709, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Rassapotimus, i.fish2000, BeckyS, merlyn_f, ChrisUK, alexmcmillan, GStone, bclifton, Hidden, Hidden, calumhd, Will Sheaff, Hidden, Hidden, Broom136, Hidden, dsgarner, suffolknick, sparkass, rocktigger, druss, cbeard, Red Rover, Chris Redding, Hidden, tonevert, Hidden, cdpuk, Hidden, ollyroberts, Alpenglow, Reds, bsparky, anthonyjc, Hidden, darrencabowabo, wealer, nb148, Oliver Smaje, Matt77, Hidden, Palmer, Hidden, Hidden, ianstevens, Skip, wurzelinzummerset, Hidden, JonnyHardman, Hidden, the power, Alex Munnery, bobpilgrem, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, CashaJones, kim.mulji, Hidden, Hidden, neilstubbs, Happy Haggis, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, flipthe buzzard, AndySL, Hidden, Bertbee, Binder, Kevin Robert Jones, mdg skidmore, Rob99, torsok, Matt250, Stuart_Burbidge, lambspread, Vikki Bassek, adamlevs, LardClimber, Thelongcon, samfayers, Hidden, Hidden, mag_to_grid, AB744, Hidden, bantamdave, Hidden, steve_hoey, Hidden, Alex the Alex, sleeplessjb, Hidden, NeilOMalley, ushi, Hidden, Dino Dave, 1979dil, amywarham, Sam_Marsland, cmarsden5, Hidden, hedgehog77, arandall, Didymus, innesmac, tompilgrem, Hidden, torsparkles, Lukeva, Aufton, rasilon, Chris Sansum, iccy, Katherine Ross, Dean177, Hidden, tommy, JamesRich, Hidden, Tom F Harding, CM1992, Alex90, timmyhobby, JacobSwift, Hidden, jonnybull, Owdham, Gaz22, Chris Ridgers, Sam Cooke, funsized, Hidden, WRCM, rustaldo, Hidden, Euan Strachan, Lumbering Oaf, Hidden, Susan Hatchell, Hidden, Private Flounder, mloskot, daniel_c_baron, mattwilk, Hidden, davetaylor, conorjclarke, Clarky10, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Mitch1990, cogg13, Hidden, Timo Austino, tobyk, Hidden, Hidden, cheesey959, Daniel, pjotrsk, Rhys_Alun, Hidden, UnkArl, Hoyes, a13x, hawkins321, JonmapDL, Jon Pilling, mullermn, DaveJ 11, justin burgoyne, j4kub, Hidden, lewiz, evilpea, Hidden, Kemics, tgeh, Manchi, brew_guru, philboy, Hidden, SianR, Hidden, gb05, katiep, Hidden, Hidden, Fred_Richard, Hidden, Hidden, Adam_42, Hidden, Hidden, sjblake, Hidden, Hidden, Alex.M-M., Hidden, Anthony Dixon, Hidden, Leelogs, sleavesley, rob7b, Hidden, Paul McCallum, pc1983, vix, Gareth Pritchard, psychomansam, Hidden, prinny, SamEveritt, mattrm, Shorty83, Hidden, colinwarden, Hidden, MAMdavem, Hidden, gidmord, Chrismoore94, LJC, Hidden, Hidden, Luke_Dickens, James Oakes, kayakingash, RyanC, Hidden, Wyn Bach, Hidden, clairepoppett, Katex, Mike_Bottom, JuneBob, andrea83, williamsd79, willotheward, danimal88, Hidden, davegs, Frank Blakeley, Hidden, Hexman, fozzybear, Dan_Carroll, Hidden, ElvisLeg, Hidden, Hidden, Richard Alderton, Hidden, Tonybhoy, Liluna, sims, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, erica, Chi Cheng, benvowles, richardhopton, Hidden, Hidden, simon geering, hcooper, daviesdan, dean.kruger, gary.barr, Hidden, ChrisRGX, davesb, gavin88, MJH, peaches69, Hidden, Tom_Harding, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Tightsgirl, Hidden, Peter Metcalfe, LozM, Hidden, gjd, Shonkhor, BeccaSnowden, Hidden, MaxR, JimBee, Hidden, catemuir, BB1, climbtim, Rich K, Hidden, Hidden, teh_mark, Hidden, Gazleah, Hidden, Conor1, towdman, Hidden, Hidden, David Bulley, fleapitfan, eirenutter, Jimbo79, Alan100, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, newvena, neilfish, James_86, Clucky, Hidden, Hidden, sweenyt, colesy, swaino777, d_evo20, mikehenesy, Hidden, Superchop75, alimckay, markalmack, bbangbala, Steve33, RFWilkie, sugy, Pete Randall, Hidden, Hidden, Sam1991, Robbie Massey, razzorbuzz, Hidden, mike_clayton, Hidden, frume, sjbutterworth, vincentvega, nick hawkins, woodenwealth, Hidden, chubbyclimber, dansmonkeytroubles, Steph Duits, ljones, howhard, hdog76, twright180, Hidden, nickevens, Ander, jandyd05, Mowglee, Richard Morgan, The Ivanator, da_cox, joeydurkin, pedro.silva, MazElden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, bavarianGaz, Tom Hutton, gd303uk, mjbeckett, Hidden, johnrc, chili-d, Hidden, simozzer, OwenF, Obi-Wan is lost..., jaspaw, andybuckley, Hidden, melmyo, SMc, The Bad Cough, Dan Lane, Ewan Richards, minaturechris, Leif Andrews, andyfeds, Siany, fried, Rustyshanks, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Danhan, Trefo, tbs105, geordiekev, chri55ie, EmmanuelF, inuklm, Hidden, tdudley, franny, Hidden, schultz, pldarch, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, edpd1b, b.hayley, A Downing, Mr Sparkle, JWB, Hidden, flytzen, Hidden, cayteye, climbingrev, Ybot Htulk, jacque, John Haxon, leopet, Hidden, oliverthomp, The Mountain Goat, dhdaveuk, Hidden, The_Boy_ODwyer, Hidden, Mr. K, Kate Edhouse, gareth r, Hidden, Glyn Davidson, Jeremy Wilton, Hidden, Hidden, Tom V, Hidden, mikekeswick, rayash, 184Dave, Hidden, SC, chucky, PeteH, andrew300169, Hidden, Bennykr, Hidden, Hidden, alexharv3y, mitch, betamonkey, Hidden, Hidden, danwaters, Hidden, bluerockman, Hidden, yomteoman, lazybones, Hidden, net, Hidden, wheelo, Hidden, dez, JayJay, bare_feet, grumsta, Hidden, wilchivs, Robfromcornwall, Hidden, kevkilroy, Hidden, skittles, tonymw, Hidden, Hidden, climbinmunkey, PanzerHanzler, Tommy G, ebastock, Hidden, Hidden, dja, Rampikino, crossdressingrodney, MikeLeeds, C@rwyn, Neil Mackenzie, @ndyM@rsh@ll, Hidden, angleseykayaker, Hidden, si_green99, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, rabid, alwyn101, Hidden, bomberharris, Hidden, Hidden, deanroberts, Hidden, climbingrick, Hidden, climber130887, Julia Chatterton, Hidden, Eccentric, Hidden, Hidden, whiting.jp, the real weeman, Hidden, gregarding, Hidden, SamStokes, Hidden, Alex Mason, Hidden, Hidden, Matty, groovy_nut, bluebrad, Matt Baddeley, Nigel R Lewis, Ali Bloxham, mike278, PenCox, Hidden, rob askew, Morgan Woods, Wilbur, lyneux, Hidden, sgl0jd, Mike Parker, Jason Kirk, HeatherF, mooseloose, kwickfit, Hidden, jl, Hidden, Mac Ghille Aindrais, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, simonbarrow, GeckoGeek, JDSwain, Paul Burgess, Hidden, Gabe, aled.sage, Hidden, andymoin, Hidden, Will Hunt, TheNorthernOne, Simon Fyfe, Hidden, Hidden, Simon Caldwell, Jon Wickham, Oliver Sherman, Hidden, Swirly, Hidden, Phil Lyon, Caralynh, 220bpm, Hidden, Hidden, trekkie, Chris the Tall, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 262
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 259
Votes cast 258
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set