Heart of Gold*** E5 6a
A great wall climb with a loose and committing first pitch but worth it for the brilliant second pitch. Start in the gully as for Left-hand Red Wall.
1) 5c, 15m. Climb the groove as for LHRW for a few metres, until it is possible to traverse out right across a steep bulging wall above the overlap. This leads to a rest in a niche, before you can follow the diagonal crack up rightwards to a hanging belay.
2) 6a, 40m. Above is a peg in an overlap, make your way up to this, large wire to back up the peg and carry on for a further 3m to a heart-in-mouth traverse right to a shallow groove. Follow this until it peters out, and make a move left to a good spike with relief. (Heart of Gold Direct goes direct from the peg in the overlap to the spike at a bolder E6). A rightwards-diagonal crack leads to a niche. A steep move to exit this joins the final pumpy crack of Left-hand Red Wall. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

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This climb is in 3 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Fantastic climbing on good rock. The direct is a better line but, with protection that is only OKish, if you fluffed it you would land on your belayer. And given that the hanging belay is only OKish that wouldn't be a great plan. And it no longer gets a separate E6 grade in the new Ground Up N Wales guide either. Will be interesting to see what they reckon in the new Gogarth guide when it comes out
morganator - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Stan Halstead

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 31/Aug/96

frank ramsay - Lead - 16/Aug/89 with crispin waddy

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom Livingstone, centurion05, datoon
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Total votes cast 6
hard E60 of 2
E60 of 2
easy E60 of 2
hard E50 of 2
E52 of 2
easy E50 of 2
hard E40 of 2
E40 of 2
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hard 6b0 of 2
6b0 of 2
easy 6b0 of 2
hard 6a0 of 2
6a2 of 2
easy 6a0 of 2
hard 5c0 of 2
5c0 of 2
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