The Curtain*** IV 5
[The 'Curtain, Ben Nevis, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: The 'Curtain, Ben Nevis © johno072
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This climb is in 248 logbooks, and on 90 wishlists.

Caked in fresh snow from overnight storm. I managed to lose a crampon whilst seconding Katie up the first pitch. She lowered me back down to fetch it - eventually located c.150 vertical metres below. Soloed first pitch to join Katie in cave, who was suffering the worst hot aches ever. Pete did second pitch and I the last one. Traverse out from belay was a bit marginal, the ice above wasn't taking ice screws, so ended up effectively soloing that pitch too. A hard won tick but an awesome adventure in challenging conditions.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 01/Mar/15 with Katie Frances, Pete Glasper

K Mckay - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/15 with Pete Metcalfe, Pete Glasper

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/15

gergosantha - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/15

Led P.3. Pretty thin now off the belay and at points in the groove
LakesWinter - AltLd - 27/Feb/15 with Rob Mid

johnrich - 2nd - 25/Feb/15 with Luke, Mike Pescod

Lead P1 up to ice cave. How long will those pitons last? The second pitch has a possible belay on the left across a dry slab that involves a horrible traverse. Better with 60m ropes to carry on straight over the ice bulge to a better belay on easier ground at the finish. Down the Ledge Route. My first Scottish IV lead - excluding Tower Ridge (which is different). Oddly after my first Scottish V lead!
davidbird63 - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/15 with Zep Mouris, David Adcock

ten4dave - AltLd - 25/Feb/15 with David Bird

Stefan_Morris - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with AndrewJamesCherry

Was glad I got the 2nd pitch, as the 1st and 3rd were a little thin/ rotten in places! (I made Stefan do the rotten bits...) End of 2nd pitch (traverse to Belay) now quite thin, with lots if 'freshly departed' ice.
AndrewJamesCherry - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with stef morris

A late afternoon ascent, glad I didn't have the lead for the last 20ft, there wasn't much left. The rest of the route was great.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 21/Feb/15 with Loz

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Feb/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/15

sj87 - 2nd - 21/Feb/15

Abbed off from the second belay as we'd run out of time. First pitch had some rotten ice. I led the second which was solid apart from the traverse to the belay which was very sketchy (ice had melted off the slab).
Will Smith - AltLd dnf - 20/Feb/15 with Paul Davies, Rob

Finn Curry - 2nd - 17/Feb/15 with Paul Warnock

guy757 - 17/Feb/15 with Vic

planetmarshall - AltLd - 17/Feb/15 with Christopher Douglas

manmike - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/15 with mikecollins, moose ridd

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Feb/15

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Feb/15

In full ice, with a fresh dusting of snow to add to the frisson. Led in two pitches, using the second belay as a runner. Fabulous!
stevelismore - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/15 with Mike Pcc

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Feb/15

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Feb/15

Got up early to be the first on the route. The ice is in great conditions but it is very stepped out. Took a variation of the line at the end of the second pitch and went straight up unhooked steep ice rather than heading left along the line of hooks.
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Jo

Pretty stepped out. Good wee climb, taking the steeper option on the last pitch was definitely more fun.
J_Trottet - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Al

Another good route today, wish we went across to do one of the other shorter routes but too tired from yesterday!
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Thomas Reid

Misha - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Nic

peter neden - AltLd - 14/Feb/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15

freudy_love - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/15 with Dunc

jacobfinn - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/15 with Graham davies

Tom Livingstone - Solo O/S - 13/Feb/15

Tdavy01 - AltLd - 13/Feb/15

Rickrick - 13/Feb/15

Great route but stepped out, sociable too! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2015/02/west-is-best-classic-ice-on-ben-nevis/
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/15 with Debbie Lee

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Feb/15

flett53 - 2nd - 10/Feb/15

joese7en - 10/Feb/15

alan barnes - AltLd - 10/Feb/15 with tom sylvester, julie baum

Wanted to do point 5 that day, but that was too crowded so we did this instead. Super warm and wet, but still fat enough to be climbed (by us and about 8 other parties! - fairly crowded belays!). Led pitches 1 and 3. Really good fun!
MSchobitz - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/15 with Paul Nairn

As 3 in 3 pitches, one lead each. Nice.
olekemi - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Colin D, Andy B

Done in 3 pitches. Lead pitch 1.
andybroadway - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Colin Dyer, Ole Kemi

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Feb/15

Did rh variation up ice pillar from cave to another cave belay then then steep ice sheet above. Brilliant.
Fatherof2 - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Roger

Drew M - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Fred Lyon

Nice conditions, just starting to warm up though.
MTBAnimal - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Andy Crutchley

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with jonah

mattc - 2nd O/S - 07/Feb/15

Colwyn lead 1st pitch. I combined 2nd and 3rd to complete route.
gst - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Colwyn Jones

Led P1
abbeywall - AltLd - 05/Feb/15 with Rhys Macallister, FM

Nice, easy, lots of traffic and blue skies for some of it.
Steve Perry - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/15 with Dan Bailey

2nd-ed P1, all good but tough on the calves. Belayed out on the left to make next pitches shorts. Led P2 (joined with P3). Water running down steeper sections, but short lived, with excellent exposure. Lovely route, worthy of the stars.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/15 with Husky Tom

With guide
samohtdoowde - 2nd O/S - 03/Feb/15

Steep. Set off onto crux pitch in gathering darkness, with one bent axe and the other broken!
joeallen28 - 2nd O/S - 03/Feb/15

Lead First and Second
mzchambers - AltLd rpt - 02/Feb/15 with Ewan L

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Feb/15

fantastic climbing on a fantastic day, done the day after we had to bail from the route because of avalanches
CaelanB - 2nd O/S - 01/Feb/15 with Joe Barlow

catrin289 - 2nd O/S - 01/Feb/15 with Liam Ingram

As hard or harder than many classic grade V ice routes.
Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/15 with Catrin Nichols

SkylarLobdell - AltLd - 01/Feb/15 with Caelan, Joe

Neil Hamlet - 2nd - Feb/15

stephen ashworth - AltLd - Feb/15 with Mark booker

Think we must have been the 7th party up this today! Abbed off
arose - Lead - 24/Jan/15 with Clients

Busy!
Scott Rankin - AltLd - 24/Jan/15 with Gordon Lacey

alifin - 2nd - 24/Jan/15 with Niall Hed, Aidan Roe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/15

Gordon Lacey - 24/Jan/15 with Scott Rankin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/15

Stepped out, wet and melting - ropes froze. I lead 1st pitch. 2nd & 3rd pitch done in one.
jimmatthews - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/15 with Ally Hurst

Callum_Johnson - Solo O/S - 22/Jan/15

Hannah Evans - 2nd - 22/Jan/15 with Scott Kirkhope

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jan/15

Led the second pitch. Whole route was brilliant. Nice to finally have climbed it having walked past it (mostly out of condition) so many times.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 21/Jan/15 with Lou

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Jan/15

Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/15 with Mark Stevenson

Awesome. Quick morning blast then home for lunch.
arose - AltLd - 19/Jan/15 with Graham Dawson

MonkeyDawson - AltLd - 19/Jan/15 with Ali Rose

dav_713 - AltLd - 19/Jan/15 with Kev

chris smith - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/15

Timothy Miller - Solo O/S - 17/Jan/15

davkeo - Solo O/S - 13/Jan/15

Led 1st pitch which was hollow and fairly bold, got a couple of hexes to the RHS and a screw before the first cave (that I had to dig out to get at the insitu tat). Drew led 2nd pitch that was even bolder. Some better ice in places (a couple of screws placed), hollow with holes in other places). Over to ledge route (loads of snow on it) for descent.
Andy Hewison - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/14 with Drew Connelly

Did 1st pitch which was sketchy at best, got a couple of hexes to the RHS, 2nd on 2nd pitch ( better ice, though a little hollow in places ) which we did as another 45m ish pitch then a easy few meter plod over to ledge route for decent
Mr Christian - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/14 with Chris p

Pitch 2 2 short screws ran the rope out 15 mtrs and belayed on the snow slope
chris p duck - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/14 with Chris R

JackM92 - AltLd - 22/Feb/14

Lost two draws to another party on the route. Please get in touch.
wilkinscl - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Ned, Edward shelly

Very busy day with over a dozen people hacking their way up. Best ice on p2 - p1 was a bit mushy and p3 a bit hollow.
morpcat - 2nd - 22/Feb/14 with Ned, wilkinscl

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/14

nice easy nick
phil64 - Lead - 19/Feb/14

Good conditions except first pitch which was soft and wet.
sacdenouilles - AltLd - 19/Feb/14 with J F Philippe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/14

Tom Vivian - 2nd - 18/Feb/14 with Spike Sellers, Jonathan

alifin - 2nd - 17/Feb/14

Good and solid ice&snow. It's, never steep, so well worth doing in these conditions. take 60m rope, as 50 doesn;t quite stretch for the top 2 pitches together.
UndercoverElephant - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/14 with S

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Feb/14

Great route, Ice not great on first pitch, but much better on the top section.
georgec - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14 with John Holterman

karlc - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 13/Feb/14

The weather was full-on but the route was in good conditions. First pitch felt easy due to soft ice. Ice on the slab vibrated from our axes and crampons. The cave needed some excavation. Pitches 2 and 3 had proper ice and were awesome even if gusts nearly blew us off the face. It took some time to find protection for the top belay because there was so much snow. Great day!
Pohil - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/14 with Ed Watson

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/14

magik_bob - 2nd - 07/Feb/14

Tilt - 2nd - Feb/14 with Ben Pearce

Hidden - Lead - Feb/14

saintlade - 2014

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

Abbed onto the route from Ledge Route to lead the lastpitch
John Roe - 20/Mar/13 with James Atkinson, Nathan Maxwell

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Ralph

PYB intro final day, lead by Tim Neill
steveforgrieve - 2nd - 21/Feb/13

Glen Burrows - 2nd dog - 21/Feb/13 with Paddy Cave, Ed Luke

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Feb/13

At long last! A bit soggy on the day but all the ice was there, felt about IV,4.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 15/Feb/13 with Kenny

buzby78 - AltLd - 12/Feb/13 with Craig Smith

A quality day, The ben looking magnificent in its winter coat. The first pitch a little thin and run out but solid, superb climbing on the next two. A busy day out on the hill with many people enjoying the fine weather.
petegunn - AltLd - 12/Feb/13 with Ash

just easy hooking
simon kimber - AltLd - 12/Feb/13 with Phil Evans

Climbed pitch 2. First steep ice lead. Amazing climbing and mega exposure.
Jonny Nick - AltLd - 12/Feb/13

Charlie Zephyr Booth - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/13 with michael kirby

planetmarshall - 2nd O/S - 11/Feb/13 with Andy Owen, John Harrison

HendrikTBB - 2nd O/S - 11/Feb/13 with Andrew Marshall, AO

a13x - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13 with Jordan Phethean

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13

Last climb with Rimon
gripped01 - AltLd - 09/Feb/13 with Rob Patchett, Rimon Than

Very thin initial slab but not sure if it ever gets fat. No convincing screws on the route but the neve was solid. Very good belays. Great route.
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/13 with graham boistelle

Working. Pleasant and easy for the grade.
akhughes - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/13

gavinpeach - 2nd O/S - 07/Feb/13

mjsmith1973 - 2nd - 06/Feb/13 with Mike Pescod

tjmillen - AltLd - Feb/13 with Ian

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/13

jon59 - 2013

captain - 2013

ashpreston - 2013

Narked4fun - 2012

Hidden - 2012

thin on the slab until the overlap, take some stubby's, top pitch thick but also not taking screws well, may not last long...:]
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/11 with Ian W

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/11

wi11 - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/11 with Chris Gee

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/11 with Carl

Tim Sparrow - Lead - 21/Feb/11 with Pete Robinson

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Tenko - 2011

Climbed rather out of condition, so the first half of pitch 1 was scratchy, insecure climbing on rock: well done Tom. Next pitch was great, but much thinner than in the photos I've seen: stepping round on to the steep ice wall on poor axes was a bit hairy, but made up for by superb exposure to the (2 rusty pegs + a nut) belay. The final short wall rounded it off nicely: a great salvage of a day so claggy we couldn't find the Comb!
andybuckley - AltLd - 07/Mar/10 with Tom Whipple

luckyjim - Solo - Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2010

colinthrelfall - 2010

cragmanuk - 2009 with Andy Kipling

windy100 - 2009

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/08 with Malcolm

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 27/Mar/08

simon_D - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/08 with George McEwan, Andy Johno

sadams - 2nd - 24/Mar/08 with Eric Hildrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/08

Greg Boswell - Lead O/S - Mar/08 with Bommer Harris

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2007

innesmac - 2007

nakedave - 2nd - 2006

Hidden - 2006

jaggy bunnet - AltLd - 06/Apr/05

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/05 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Mar/05

Route I'd always dreamed of doing, bit of a let down but still a good day out
AndyH1710 - 2nd O/S - Mar/05 with Jason Day

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/05

Guided
Ann S - 2nd - Mar/05 with Guide -Dave Hollinger

sgl - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/05 with Konnie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/05

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/05 with Paul Beacall

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Feb/05

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/05

centurion05 - 2nd O/S - Feb/05 with Dan Carroll

seanyt - Lead - Feb/05

Nick Wallis - AltLd O/S - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Dec/04

Chris L Hill - 2nd - 22/Feb/04 with Di Gilbert, Stuart Shaw

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/01

vivid memory of watching the water under the ice and of water spurting over my axe head before starting the rising bulging traverse on the third pitch.
Dave Almond - Solo - Jan/01

Hidden - Jan/01

GMcE, my axe broke while leading crux pitch
plain kitten - 2001

220bpm - AltLd O/S - Mar/00 with Alan

NickJH - Lead O/S - Feb/00

Hidden - Lead - Feb/00

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/99

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 10/Mar/99

As part of course.
cem - 2nd - 24/Feb/99 with Phil ?, Simon P

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Feb/99

Dave Kerr - Lead - 10/Feb/99 with Craig Proctor

Hidden - Lead - Feb/99

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/99

Hidden - Lead - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

nickdonohue - Lead - 10/Mar/98

Hidden - 01/Mar/98

Hidden - Mar/98

AB1965 - AltLd - 19/Feb/98

phardman - Feb/96

Marti999 - Lead - Mar/95

tlr - AltLd - Jan/95 with Nick

alkira - 26/Apr/94

Mick King - Lead - 16/Apr/94 with Stu Hardacre

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Apr/94

TheAndyBarker - AltLd - Jan/94

frost - Lead - 1992

OMSKB - 2nd - 11/Feb/91

Had been well hacked, so mostly hooking.
craig h - AltLd - Jan/91 with Nick D

Hidden - Solo - 15/Mar/89

Hidden - Lead - Feb/89

Hidden - Solo - 06/Feb/88

Grezza - Lead - Feb/88 with JuJu

top half was steep
jlury - 2nd - Feb/88 with Nick Phillips

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - Solo - 21/Mar/87

Hidden - Lead - 24/Feb/87

scree - Solo - Feb/87

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jan/87

ChrisJD - Lead - 06/Jan/87 with PeteC

I soloed it after my friend Colin Gourlay had soloed it. He had forgotten his tools, so I lent him mine and we tossed a coin for who would go first. I lost.
GaryK - Solo - Apr/86

John Marsland - AltLd - 21/Feb/86 with Dave Soles

Hidden - Solo - 08/Feb/86

Hidden - Solo - 07/Feb/86

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Feb/86

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Feb/86

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/86

amcleish - 1986

jcw - 1986 with Roger Everett

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - Mar/84 with Dave Snowden

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 14/Feb/84 with Dave Bartle

Gezzer - AltLd - 1984 with Steve Burns

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1984

Mark Kemball - Lead - 25/Mar/83 with Aamir Butt

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/83

On course
Howard J - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/83 with Loch Eil Centre

mark-abz - AltLd - 14/Feb/83 with Walter P

Soloed in the Eighties with John Christie in wet conditions
Lone Rider - 1980 with John Christie

Good nick. John Page also on rope
David Smith - AltLd - 16/Feb/78 with Al Bennett

Climbed in full conditions! Desperate descent down No.5 gully and lost Bob on the walk out. Gavin & Dudley meanwhile retreated from high on Observatory Ridge and were helicoptered off the ridge on their next attempt, when Dudley fell and was left swinging in space!
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Jan/78 with Bob Milward

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 1978

Falko - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/77 with Andy Parkin

Paul Clarke - 1975 with FMC

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Voting
Total votes cast 151
hard V0 of 53
V1 of 53
easy V18 of 53
hard IV17 of 53
IV16 of 53
easy IV1 of 53
hard III0 of 53
III0 of 53
easy III0 of 53
hard 60 of 51
60 of 51
easy 60 of 51
hard 50 of 51
527 of 51
easy 512 of 51
hard 411 of 51
41 of 51
easy 40 of 51
3 Stars33 of 47
2 Stars12 of 47
1 Star2 of 47
0 Stars0 of 47
Bag of .....0 of 47
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Style of ascent
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