Rockfax Description
The wide crack in the third of the corners is the wrong size for most folks. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, AMC Uni Ticklist, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
ReubenS1990 ?/Jul Lead O/S

Scary lead. Chicken winged the whole way up and couldn't feel my arm by the top.

Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
Dan Geh 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Got my number 6 cam in right at the bottom! Far better on lead.

Dean177 21/Apr/14 TR O/S
Dibdawg 21/Apr/14 TR O/S
kim.mulji 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Got to the big crack, then got into crack, and couldn't move. Tried the other way round (facing cliff), but even worse. Prompted to put some gear in, then climbed up edge a metre, then got into crack. Used various "thrutching"-related techniques, and traversed across crack to reach ledge and back wall. Hard work, but safe once you are in the crack!

kyaizawa 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
lcullum7 13/Jun/13 2nd O/S
RUDIN.J.D.H 12/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Nice introduction to Off widthing. . . painful but enjoyable experience!

ianstevens 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Utterly awesome, book yourself in for a skin graft before you undertake the monster! An utter must do, and once you're in the crack its pretty much impossible to fall, just to wedge yourself deeper in. If you're debating it, go and do it! Also (beta alert) you won't fit any cam ever made into it, sorry! Also, NOT an offwidth - it's a squeeze chimney.

Samuel Wainwright 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S

3 star classic VS..More blood donated here than to the NHS. HVS if you forget your car jack.

Ian Stevens
cbeard 13/Oct/12 Solo dnf

Backed off this one as getting into the chimney wasn't going to be trivial!

mcglenr25 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant fun, caving experience and a svelte stature are useful prerequisits!

Hidden 13/Aug/12 2nd O/S
pembrokeshirecaver 27/Jun/12 Solo O/S

Found this pretty easy due to my wide experience of caving. Little tricky getting into the crack but once established very straightforward thrutching which eases towards the top

Ross.Cooper 07/Jun/12 TR dog

First off-width, rested on rope a couple of times but completed it "off-width" style

Dan Geh 07/Jun/12 TR O/S

lovely off-width fun, should of lead it really.

yarrow 07/Jun/12 TR dog

Filthy fun.

AMJ098 06/Jun/12 TR O/S

A great struggle. My first off-width. Had a soggy but fun time in there!

funsized ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Didn't really think through what I was (literally) getting into, until it was far too late. Credit to Chris for holding back the laughter as long as possible whilst I was thrutching around with groundfall potential. Probably one of my favourite HVS's yet.

climbingchica 17/Sep/10 TR
Rob Hirst 17/Sep/10 TR O/S

Michelle laybacked it up and had a nightmare. i just managed to get in the crack but also had a night mare. it is sooo tight that you can't do anything once you are in.

david morse 07/Sep/10 Lead dnf

dont bother bring a big cam, its too wide. Proably 5.9 squeeze, slightly narrower than Monolith Crack.

Hidden 02/May/10 Solo O/S
Ed morris 23/Oct/09 TR O/S

no gear where it matters unless you have giant cams so top roped. squeezed into the crack and thrutched up it. Nasty and slow.

mark dwyer
liamlonsdale 25/Jun/09 Lead dnf

bloody horrible up the start no problems, but actually getting into the crack?! Not one of us could do it...and there were 4 retrospect, probably laybacking the moves at the lower part of the crack (big balls required) and then squeezing in further up may have worked better.

Ben Robinson
Hidden 03/Jan/08 TR O/S
max_chan ?/May/04 TR O/S
jamie ward 27/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Chris Comrie
Hidden ?/Aug/00 2nd
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 -
Nigel Coe ??/1997 Lead
Dick Hanson
iskra2000 12/Nov/95 2nd
Mark Leach
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 14
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set