Just Fits HVS 4c
[Meaty New Years Day Climb. , 4 kb]

Rockfax Description
The wide crack in the third of the corners is the wrong size for most folks. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, AMC Uni Ticklist, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch.

Photo: Meaty New Years Day Climb. © Jonathan Spooner
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 33 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Scary lead. Chicken winged the whole way up and couldn't feel my arm by the top.
ReubenS1990 - Lead O/S - Jul/15 with Whipinator

Tim Sparrow - 2015

Got my number 6 cam in right at the bottom! Far better on lead.
Dan Geh - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/14 with Paddy, Will

Dean177 - TR O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Alan Dibben

Dibdawg - TR O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Dean Merchant

Got to the big crack, then got into crack, and couldn't move. Tried the other way round (facing cliff), but even worse. Prompted to put some gear in, then climbed up edge a metre, then got into crack. Used various "thrutching"-related techniques, and traversed across crack to reach ledge and back wall. Hard work, but safe once you are in the crack!
kim.mulji - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Loic

kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Ben Selby

lcullum7 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Joe Rudin, Mike Mason, Ky Aizawa

Nice introduction to Off widthing. . . painful but enjoyable experience!
RUDIN.J.D.H - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/13 with Kyoichi Aizawa

Utterly awesome, book yourself in for a skin graft before you undertake the monster! An utter must do, and once you're in the crack its pretty much impossible to fall, just to wedge yourself deeper in. If you're debating it, go and do it! Also (beta alert) you won't fit any cam ever made into it, sorry! Also, NOT an offwidth - it's a squeeze chimney.
ianstevens - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13

Backed off this one as getting into the chimney wasn't going to be trivial!
cbeard - Solo dnf - 13/Oct/12

Brilliant fun, caving experience and a svelte stature are useful prerequisits!
mcglenr25 - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Francis Charlesworth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/12

Found this pretty easy due to my wide experience of caving. Little tricky getting into the crack but once established very straightforward thrutching which eases towards the top
pembrokeshirecaver - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/12

First off-width, rested on rope a couple of times but completed it "off-width" style
Ross.Cooper - TR dog - 07/Jun/12 with Dan Geh

lovely off-width fun, should of lead it really.
Dan Geh - TR O/S - 07/Jun/12

Filthy fun.
yarrow - TR dog - 07/Jun/12 with Dan Geh

A great struggle. My first off-width. Had a soggy but fun time in there!
AMJ098 - TR O/S - 06/Jun/12

Didn't really think through what I was (literally) getting into, until it was far too late. Credit to Chris for holding back the laughter as long as possible whilst I was thrutching around with groundfall potential. Probably one of my favourite HVS's yet.
funsized - Lead O/S - Apr/12

climbingchica - TR - 17/Sep/10

Michelle laybacked it up and had a nightmare. i just managed to get in the crack but also had a night mare. it is sooo tight that you can't do anything once you are in.
Rob Hirst - TR O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Michelle Hordern

dont bother bring a big cam, its too wide. Proably 5.9 squeeze, slightly narrower than Monolith Crack.
david morse - Lead dnf - 07/Sep/10 with siobhan

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/May/10

no gear where it matters unless you have giant cams so top roped. squeezed into the crack and thrutched up it. Nasty and slow.
Ed morris - TR O/S - 23/Oct/09 with mark dwyer

bloody horrible crack...got up the start no problems, but actually getting into the crack?! Not one of us could do it...and there were 4 attempts...in retrospect, probably laybacking the moves at the lower part of the crack (big balls required) and then squeezing in further up may have worked better.
liamlonsdale - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/09 with Ben Robinson

Hidden - TR O/S - 03/Jan/08

max_chan - TR O/S - May/04

jamie ward - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/03 with Chris Comrie

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/00

belay bunny turned bad - 2000

Nigel Coe - Lead - 1997 with Dick Hanson

iskra2000 - 2nd - 12/Nov/95 with Mark Leach

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
vix, charlielow, Happeuss, damob123, JonmapDL

Total votes cast 37
hard E10 of 14
E14 of 14
easy E10 of 14
hard HVS0 of 14
HVS6 of 14
easy HVS2 of 14
hard VS0 of 14
VS2 of 14
easy VS0 of 14
hard 5a1 of 9
5a1 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
hard 4c0 of 9
4c7 of 9
easy 4c0 of 9
hard 4b0 of 9
4b0 of 9
easy 4b0 of 9
3 Stars11 of 14
2 Stars0 of 14
1 Star3 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean repeat