Rockfax Description
A good route that dodges around the blank groove.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb steeply up to a belay below the black groove.
2) 6a, 18m. Move out right to the arete and up to the line of overhangs before traversing back left above the top of the groove. Finish steeply, belay further up on blocks. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Another superb route on good rock, attempting to climb the striking black groove line on the main pillar. Start beneath the groove an hour either side of low water.
1) 15m, 5b. Climb steeply on good holds to a small stance beneath the black groove.
2) 30m, 6a. Climb rightwards to the arête and move up to the band of overhangs. Traverse left beneath the overhang until above the blank section of the groove. Climb straight up steep ground to reach the broken crest of the buttress. Finish easily up this to block belays.

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