This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
The deep chimney flake. The easy lower ground gets you into the recess. Follow the feature all the way to an upper capstone, which is passed with a little intuitive footwork. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin, C.Mortlock 06/May/1969.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kiddie68 | 11 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Vile route. Can’t believe it gets any stars and not just because it’s an awkward thrutch-fest, but it’s slimy and loose. One foothold block came out only just missing my belayer. Should have done the Curver instead. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Vile route. Can’t believe it gets any stars and not just because it’s an awkward thrutch-fest, but it’s slimy and loose. One foothold block came out only just missing my belayer. Should have done the Curver instead. |
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myrddinmuse | 7 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Couple loose ish blocks, take care what you pull. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Couple loose ish blocks, take care what you pull. |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Saddle Head)