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Central Buttress* VS 5a

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[Central Buttress - Stanage, 2 kb]Trend out right to pass the overhang then climb steeply to access the contrasting slab above - interesting. The obvious Direct Start is a gymnastic 6b. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide).

Photo: Central Buttress - Stanage © Ian Mateer
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 102 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/14

john max - 2nd - 31/May/14 with John Bayliss

did it properly this time staying left
john_ni - Lead rpt - 31/May/14 with John Maxfield (PCC)

RosieLynch - 2nd dog - 26/May/14 with Anthony King

aking12 - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Rosie Lynch

JasonK - 2nd - 15/May/14

GregBristol - Lead - 17/Apr/14 with Andy Spacie

shumidrives - 2nd - 17/Apr/14 with GregBristol

PeteWilson - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/14 with Andrew Graham

peteJ23 - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Scruffster

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14

went far right and up the line of Centerpiece at 4c
john_ni - Lead - 24/Sep/13 with David Brown (PCC)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/13

Nice and varied, unprotected start, power crux, delicate last slab.
Chris Craggs - Lead - 25/Aug/13 with Steve Cunnington

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

pog100 - 2nd - 21/Oct/12 with Reaver2k

30th route of the challenge done after 6 hours climbing
Alex@home - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Tony Moody

jshields - Lead - 05/Aug/12 with Mike Dowsett

davewsargent - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12

John Roberts (JR) - AltLd rpt - 15/Jul/12 with Ben Wolstenholme

Ben Wolstenholme - Jul/12

Failed on the lead - & fell once seconding!
JohnHutch - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/12 with Nik H

A Crook - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Neil Griffiths

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 10/Jun/12 with Adam

chrisbussell - 2nd - 22/May/12 with Tim O'Neill

adie84 - 2012

hailtryfan - Lead O/S - Oct/11 with AJ Bowley

Could reach the break over the bulge, so felt fairly steady. Really nice.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/11 with Doug, W. Morgan

Hidden - TR - 16/Aug/11

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/11

Good
LakesWinter - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Mark R

Nicely thoughtful
joemallia - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Fidel Sciamanna

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Chris Ashton

David Smith - 2011

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 27/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Oct/10

jaimer - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Phil, Dave Hall

Wee Helen - 2nd dog - 02/Oct/10 with John

max_chan - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Steve Carty

Russell Lovett - Lead O/S - 24/May/10 with Alan Taylor and Poppy the dog

mikej - Lead - 27/Apr/10 with Rick Naylor

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/10

got it all, chiminy slab and bulge!
Climber1806 - 2nd - 15/Apr/10 with Max Edwards

Maxim2023 - Lead - Apr/10 with Matt Smith

Took the line shown in Rockfax at the bottom (this is wrong, it's supposed to traverse immediately above the overhang). Wimped out of the crux due to damp rock and lack of bottle, went up on the right instead (4b ish). Did the top slab properly though :)
Simon Caldwell - Lead - 10/Oct/09 with Rob, Carmen

nice varied climbing, bold as brass if you traverse low down then up first slab (beware the damp) Great hard well protected move up the steep wall to bomber gear, then bold (no gear) padding top the top. Nice. Did every section indpedepdent of simons version.
lithos - 2nd - 10/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead - 19/Aug/09

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with stewart murray

edd rab - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Ben Harding

popebenedictus - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Edd Rab

PanzerHanzler - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with CarrieGold

carriegold - 2nd dog - 24/May/09 with Andy Hansler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/09

BorisVBlade - 2nd dog - 03/May/09 with Jonathan Phillips

Duz Walker - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Penny

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Alan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead - 2009

The crux is certainly no pushover. It looks and feels totally unfeasible from below, but once you commit to the move it's all there. Awesome.
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Simon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/08 with Lauren Foster/Keeler

Refused the pull over the overlap...low confidence day
Sankey - Lead dnf - 16/Jul/08 with Andy E

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/08

alek - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Phill Cunnington

Stig - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Jonathan Teale

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/08

Nicos - Solo O/S - 31/Mar/08 with solo

cem - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Graham Dolman

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Jamie

HVS 4c/5a. Bottom and top parts both bold adn not a path. Top slab especially is definitely not VS IMO. Similar to klots of HVS 4cs Ive done (and, I dare say it, a few over-graded E1 5a's, such as that thiing at Rivelin by Left Edge, or that well-known thing at Froggatt).
Si dH - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Neil Furniss

Treborent - 22/Sep/07 with Paul W, Simon G

Hidden - Solo - 15/Sep/07

D Berry - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Claire Berry

There is pro for the first bit (it may be small however). The crux is a real tester, I did it with a pull up on real slopers then a half mantle with super sloper slap. My 2nd suceeded with a heel hook.
howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Ruthy

Easy traverse and moves up to the crux all unprotected. Two bomber small friends in high left and then 10 minutes of head scratching before a strenuous pull to get the feet as high as possible and then slapping for the beginnings of the horizontal break above. Easy slab climbing to finish.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Ann Sanderson

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

spragglerocks - TR O/S - 2007 with Paddy

viking56 - Lead dog - 02/Jun/06 with JEH

Hidden - Lead - Jun/05

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jul/04

JohnHutch - 2nd - 24/May/04 with L

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/03

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 05/May/02 with A. Murray

Roget - Solo O/S - 19/Jun/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/98

Rog Wilko - Lead - Apr/95 with Debbie Wilkinson

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Jun/91 with Dave Gurney

Hidden - Solo - 06/Jul/90

mik1miller - Solo - 1989

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/88

Hidden - Solo - 31/May/87

babymoac - TR - 22/Apr/84

Tom V - 1984

Nigel Bond - Lead - 28/Jun/80 with Martin Crosby

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/77

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/77

Mark Kemball - Lead - Jun/76 with Steve Marriott

rogerskews - 1975

Via right hand variation
mikej - Lead - 22/Mar/70 with E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Chi Cheng, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 81
hard HVS0 of 27
HVS0 of 27
easy HVS9 of 27
hard VS11 of 27
VS6 of 27
easy VS1 of 27
hard HS0 of 27
HS0 of 27
easy HS0 of 27
hard 5b0 of 27
5b0 of 27
easy 5b1 of 27
hard 5a3 of 27
5a16 of 27
easy 5a4 of 27
hard 4c3 of 27
4c0 of 27
easy 4c0 of 27
3 Stars0 of 27
2 Stars23 of 27
1 Star4 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent

Soloed9 of 102 (8.8%)
Lead57 of 102 (55.9%)
Followed25 of 102 (24.5%)
Toproped3 of 102 (2.9%)
Alt Leads1 of 102 (1.0%)
Unknown7 of 102 (6.9%)

'Climbed'46 of 102 (45.1%)
clean O/S47 of 102 (46.1%)
clean rpt2 of 102 (2.0%)
dogged6 of 102 (5.9%)
dnf1 of 102 (1.0%)