Highland > Ben Nevis >
 
Orion Face Direct*** V 5

Adjacent Climbs
<< The Long Climb Finish
 
Orion Direct - Tower Variations >>
[Looking down Orion Direct after crux rising traverse, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Robin Smith Legacy.

Photo: Looking down Orion Direct after crux rising traverse © Captain Solo
View all 29 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 188 logbooks, and on 155 wishlists.

Brilliant.
colenn - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/14 with Liam Brophy, Rob Noone

rob87n - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/14 with Colm ennis, Liam Brophy

liamo333 - AltLd - 28/Mar/14

bandersnatch - 2014

Hidden - 2014

prcleary - 2014

My first May Scottish climb and the fantastic finale of this fantastic winter season! James lead P1 and then lead alternatively. Didn't expect we'd use 3 screws for both the upper & lower belay... 50m pitches with 3 screw runners only were not really good... We were continuously assaulted by spindrift from both above and below.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13 with James C

NickJH - AltLd - 27/Apr/13 with LiamG

Excellent. Sustained and interesting all the way. The popularity is justified. Storm winds hit on the way down. Well timed.
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 13/Apr/13 with Adrian Pedley

Mega route, done without incident apart from one dropped screw, won't mention names but it wasnt me!! great conditions topped out as the wind picked up
a pedley - AltLd - 13/Apr/13 with neil Griffeths

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/13

Great Climb but took us a while. Good sustained level of climbing all the way through the 8 pitches.
Joe Nunn - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/13

alan barnes - AltLd - 09/Apr/13 with cam fowler, luke

Hidden - 08/Apr/13

Scotsken - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Jonno

Led 1, 4, 7 9 pitches
abbeywall - AltLd - 06/Apr/13 with K, FM

AMAZING!
Harry Holmes - Solo O/S - 05/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Apr/13

dav_713 - AltLd - 02/Apr/13 with Davie Scott

Hidden - Lead - Apr/13

Conditions were thin lower down on the crux but Alex did a grand job! Awesome route, took a while but involved everything I enjoy about ice climbing on the Ben.
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Alex

With rob and Sean - short day
peter neden - Lead - 16/Mar/13

rob1 - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/13

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 13/Mar/13 with Rob

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Mar/13

gregor - 12/Mar/13

jon22 - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/13 with The Bad Cough

Fantastic conditions! Car to car 10 1/2 hours.
The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/13 with John Sealey

Great climb, crux was thin and exposed, a bit of mixed climbing. Chimney towards the end was good.
Andy Hewison - 2nd - 04/Mar/13 with Pete Jackson, Mark Chadwick

radioshed - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with dave s

David Stevens - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Matt Craig

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13

Uisdean hawthorn - 02/Mar/13

Excellent trip albeit very hacked out. Belays looked like gruyère.
Tubs - Solo O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Dave M

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/13

jamesturnbull - AltLd - Mar/13 with aiden

Guy Wilson - Mar/13 with Plum

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Feb/13

Fantastic!!
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/13 with helen gibson

.. not quite the direct route up the face..led the basin pitch only.. at downclimb and traverse, went too far right and continued up Slav route, which had rubbish belays and pro in upper section, quite scary in the dark, but an unforgettable adventure!!
Helen Gibson - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/13 with dan

the first 4 or 5 pitches of Orion then switched to Slav Route after the traverse and finished up the icy chimney to the back right of the tower. Good link up. Blue sky day.
stratandrew - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/13 with Gareth Williams

Linked to Slav route
gw3285 - AltLd - 27/Feb/13

Superb. Never desperately hard, but it's a huge route so fully worth the (V,5). We did it in 9 pitches.
Wee Davie - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/13 with Gary Gray

Perfect day.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/13 with Ally Rocke

In excellent condition - unforgettable day!
allyrocke - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/13 with Liam Ingram

Very stepped out but still a brilliant brilliant place to be! Bottom half to ourselves then caught up with others. Topped out with Orion rising over the crest...
tomdude - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/13 with Rich Abel

wheelsucker - AltLd - 26/Feb/13 with David Crawford

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead - 25/Feb/13

after hadrian's - had the face to ourselves (you just need to start at 2pm)
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 24/Feb/13 with Ben Wallace

Hidden - Lead - 24/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Helen Harrison

The Grist - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Nick Allsop

Just over 4 hrs, awesome route
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Murdo

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Feb/13

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/13 with jonah

http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/02/orion-face-direct
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/13 with Nick Russell, Alex Winter

Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/13 with Nick and Alastair

First on the face, moved efficiently as a 3. Excellent conditions, and the climb lived up to expectations!
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/13 with Alex Winter, Alastair Begley

Simon Allcock - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/13 with Wilki

Fantastic route
atch - 21/Feb/13 with James T

Alpine start. Amazing day. Amazing route. Amazing conditions. Climbed in less than 4 and half hours. Best day on the Ben ever.
alifin - 2nd - 19/Feb/13 with Mike Pescod, Aidan Roe

Tom Campbell - Lead O/S - Feb/13

greglad - Feb/13

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

captain - 2013

ashpreston - 2013

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Mar/11

Had a go. Found the first pitch to not be complete / in my ability.
joeydurkin - AltLd dnf - 25/Mar/11 with Mark P

Another working day. Traffic on the crux pitch is starting to take it's toll, as ice is becoming quite thin and detached.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 19/Mar/11 with Parminder

Fantastic route, lived up to expectations and then some! Not technically hard for a V as the ice conditions were pretty good but it just kept coming! The crux consisted of a few slightly tricky mixed moves on the traverse pitch (once I got on the right line - initially traversed along what seemed an obvious sloping snow ledge but that was too low and took me too near to Zero, so had to reverse and reconsider). The only disappointment was that we didn't have much visibility for most of the time. Su did very well, particularly considering that her foot was in increasing pain. The 4+ parties backing up behind us must have been cursing us but first come, first served! Soloed P1 (approach pitch), Phil led P2 (a short steep section on good hooks), I P3 through first snowfield and a steeper bit of ice, Phil P4 through continuation shownfield, I P5 crux traverse and up steepish ice, easy groudn and a tricky mixed groove, Phil P6 icy grooves, I P7 icy slab with steep exit into large icy chimney (everything was icy!), Phil P8 out of chimney and up easier ground, I P9 direct to the top through couple of tricky mixed sections (route meant to go diagonally right up easy ground). Up at 2am, started walk in 3.30, started route 7.30, topped out 6.20, headtorches out going down Red Burn, megabog slog across from the lochan, back in NF car park 10.20, 19 hour day!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Su, Phil

What a lot of route! 9 long pitches. Up at 2am, walking in from 3.30. Lots of snow all the way. On route 7.30. Topped out 18.30. Back to car 22.30 - long day. Climbing straight forward but always better than Point Five. Excellent neve meant gear a bit poor - 1 decent rock belay on whole route, rest a variety of good to poor screws. Su with bad foot so Misha and I alt lead. I got big ice on P2, Misha the traverse (thin to start but good hooks - 5), I the chimney, Misha straightened the top to take in some steep mixed steps on top pitch. Slow but not bad for a 3some and Su on 6th winter climb.
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with su, misha

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Mar/11

simondunf - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/11 with beau

Guiding day. Stunning day on the mountain, with very calm weather and amazing views all day. Route is in good condition, crux pitch is a bit thin, but fine.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 16/Mar/11 with Dominic

A wild day! Had to climb mainly blind due to spindrift.
Heike - 12/Mar/11 with Martin Fitzsimons

Simon K - 2nd - 07/Mar/11 with Mike Pescod

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11

lots of ice fall on lower pitches. fucking spicy, but amazing!
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11 with phil emerson, emily roo

machars - AltLd - 05/Mar/11 with Bjorn Verduijn

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/Mar/11

Scotsken - Mar/11

Pete Graham - AltLd - 27/Feb/11 with Malcolm Scott

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 21/Jan/11

Crucial traverse wasn't in condition so we bailed into Zero Gully
AMarchant - AltLd dnf - 21/Jan/11 with Ally Hurst

R2D2 - 2011

adie84 - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

alkira - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2011

Condition was marginal and misty, but still a great day out.
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/10 with Ben Taylor, Carlos

Dave Thompson - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Michael Stephenson

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/10

Wanted to do this for years!
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - Apr/10 with Ned

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/10

Lead even pitches including crux traverse. Beautiful day, amazing positions on the route.
niallk - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/10 with Willie

First on the route, felt like we had it all to ourselves through apparently many teams below. I lead all 10 pitches, mentally shattered by the top. I think we may have done a pitch of the directissima after the crux for a pitch. We also took the first variation right of the traditional finish that traverses back onto the original line at the final bend back right. Amazing day out.
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/10 with Jon Miles

First experience of Grade V. Brilliant Route.
The Mountain Goat - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/10 with Dom Sellers

Bloody amazing climb. The ice was awesome. Long day though.
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with R. Mcmurry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10

Great condition, 1st time placements the whole way. Pretty wild conditions!
bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Bart Shaw

Good conditions - plenty of folk enjoying them!
Jules C - 27/Mar/10

Hidden - 26/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Mar/10

R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Henning

http://graniteandice.blogspot.com/2010/03/orion-direct-to-end-it-all.html
hwackerhage - AltLd - 21/Mar/10 with Robbie Miller

Cracking route, great position, perect nic.
DuncanR - AltLd - 20/Mar/10

Traversed way too far on crux pitch into Slav route, followed this to a dead end 3m from the top then rapped into zero. Adventure!
david morse - AltLd - 13/Mar/10 with ben anderson

Awesome route. Climbing never too hard, but protection was poor. V,4.
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Andy

Ben1983 - AltLd - 13/Mar/10

Great day out but knackering. After traverse pitch above basin ended up following preceding parties up Slav route finish; unfortunately last 10ft was unclimbable slab(ice ran out!)so had to abseil into Zero gully to finish. Heinous conditions on top.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - AltLd - 12/Mar/10 with Pete Whillance

gregor - 12/Mar/10

Hidden - 12/Mar/10

Climbed in 9 pitches, had the route to ourselves, in fantastic condition. Crux pitch was fairly straight forward today.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 10/Mar/10 with Scott Kirkhope

sadams - AltLd - 08/Mar/10 with Eric Hildrew

A sublime route. Not huge amounts of gear and some suspect belays but there was plenty of good ice including on the crux. My favourite winter route so far, only a winter traverse of the Cullin could knock it into second place. We were pleased we got up early as we ended up in front of the masses who turned up after us!
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/10 with John Barker

With RK. Delays due to other parties. Last three pitched in dark. Mostly very good ice except a short section in the pitch above the crux pitch. Lead this by head torch light. A smashing day!
Limestone-Lad - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/10

Route in great condition with bomber neve throughout.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Peter Flanagan

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10

benclimbing - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Dave Latimer

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Mar/10

AB1965 - 2nd - 03/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/10

very lucky - probably as easy as its gets very fine
bob johnson - 02/Mar/10 with Mike Pescod, Al Borrett

jmaskill - 2nd - Mar/10

gripped01 - AltLd - Mar/10 with Mike Palmer

led with daz lemal, beut day out
spoony84 - AltLd O/S - Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 2010

luckyjim - AltLd - Mar/09 with D Helm

Captain Solo - AltLd - 19/Apr/08 with Ewan

Richard White - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/08 with Rimon Than

lberry - 2nd - 12/Apr/08

Hidden - 06/Apr/08

Brown - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Innes

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/08

centurion05 - AltLd - Mar/08

softish ice conditions
Grezza - Lead - 18/Feb/08

innes - 2008

Best winter day ever!
HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Tim

sgl - AltLd - 20/Mar/07 with gaz

gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/07 with sgl

akhughes - AltLd O/S - Mar/07 with Steptoe

Jamie B - Lead - Mar/07 with Ed Morrison

timmy-ts - 2007

keith leonard - Lead - 2007 with wife

Hidden - 2007

GuyM - AltLd - Apr/06 with si

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/03

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/02

Gudge - AltLd O/S - Mar/02 with Gareth Hughes

Think this is over-rated. A lot of uncharacterful pitches; a lot of climbing and nice scenery but in itself pretty uninteresting.
nickdonohue - AltLd - Mar/02 with Jon Aylward

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 24/Feb/02 with Steve Wells

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/May/01

bandersnatch - Lead - Feb/01 with Mairi B

frost - AltLd - Mar/00 with J Hubbard

As good as the hype, great exposed position, bettered only by Psychedelic Wall or Astral Highway for position.....
Chad123 - AltLd - Feb/00 with Jonny M

Hidden - 1999

mark mcgowan01 - 1993 with Alex Runciman

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Apr/89

Hidden - Solo - 06/Apr/88

Hidden - Solo - 25/Feb/87

scree - Feb/87 with Dave H

One of my first winter climbs. Never bettered.
Steve Crowe - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/86

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/86

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 08/Feb/86 with Perric Crellin

jcw - 1986 with Simon Richardson

Gezzer - AltLd - 1984 with Max Rock

Got best pitches.Very well covered, supurb conditions
David Smith - AltLd - 23/Feb/83 with Al Bennett

mark-abz - AltLd - 16/Feb/83 with Kev H

My first route on the Ben
Bob - AltLd O/S - 1981 with D. Geere

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
pugilistswine, chris p duck, Hidden, Hidden, The Ghost Rider, Hidden, alexanderjwatts, Stefan_Morris, Hidden, butteredfrog, Mr Christian, n.LiVE, Hidden, Andrew Holden, oscaig, Hidden, Hidden, JamesWilliams, Hidden, Hidden, kenneM, iksander, jfmchivall, mjsmith1973, Col Kingshott, Hidden, innesmac, MrRiley, Hidden, Nath93, Hidden, RM199, JonmapDL, Hidden, pwb1981, Hidden, Hidden, JRae, Hidden, Ri, Hidden, kim.mulji, Hidden, Hidden, runninginclouds, Hidden, JanBella, Hidden, MikeLell, Hidden, Hidden, Ander, andy dunn, Hidden, tompilgrem, Alex90, Mr Wild, jepotherepo, tlmarjot, jamesbrown1979, Hidden, Hidden, Sianny, geoff.comley, joeydurkin, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Stiffinger, Ian Jones, Hidden, franksnb, Hidden, PHILD, mattrm, martinazando, AWH, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, ChrisRGX, Rick Ashton, Gazlynn, ckmoffat, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Adam1973, Hidden, Hidden, craig.coid, Ally Gillies, Gibson, Hidden, Ice Spider, Superchop75, Hidden, mikemartin, vincentvega, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, MJH, towdman, Lawrie Brand, The Mountain Goat, John Carney, andybuckley, The Bad Cough, texuspete, the colonel, morsy, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Rob84, punj, Hidden, oliverthomp, WilliamBurnside, Will Smith, Hidden, Hidden, baynes, tommytuffa, Hidden, alifin, dthomson, Hidden, davidhw, stokesrees, Ann S, Hidden, blackcurrant, IanJackson, andymoin, Dave Searle, Mr Powly, Hidden, RobScotland, steveP, dan cowley, tom.e, mk76, dunx55, simonfife, George Ormerod, JDSwain, Spade, Hidden, French Erick, petehaz, nicholas Barrowclough, Tobias at Home

Voting
Total votes cast 158
hard VI0 of 54
VI0 of 54
easy VI0 of 54
hard V1 of 54
V44 of 54
easy V9 of 54
hard IV0 of 54
IV0 of 54
easy IV0 of 54
hard 60 of 54
60 of 54
easy 60 of 54
hard 51 of 54
524 of 54
easy 523 of 54
hard 45 of 54
41 of 54
easy 40 of 54
3 Stars49 of 50
2 Stars1 of 50
1 Star0 of 50
0 Stars0 of 50
Bag of .....0 of 50
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 188 (2.1%)
Lead19 of 188 (10.1%)
Followed14 of 188 (7.4%)
Alt Leads112 of 188 (59.6%)
Unknown39 of 188 (20.7%)

'Climbed'111 of 188 (59.0%)
clean O/S71 of 188 (37.8%)
clean rpt2 of 188 (1.1%)
dnf4 of 188 (2.1%)