beds74 14/May AltLd

Well...The Chasm...If you'd have asked me whilst I was climbing this I'd have said 2 out of 10...Loose, horrid, dangerous, awfulness, chossy, did I say loose...minimal E4 protection in parts....The saving grace was that we did it in the dry, bet it's a nightmare in the wet!! Few days was alright. What I would say is the description is a bit like the Bible...written yonks ago and lost in translation over years and years....Good old Gary Latters guide he's chopped (all the useful parts out of the SMC guide out) and condensed it into something that you could make any of the pitches fit into. If your doing it drop us a line and I'll fill bits in! Loads of pitches missing. We think we got to the top (making bits fit) but we headed up a gully cause a massive iceberg Blocked our way. Lovely top out on summit and down just in time for dinner at Kings House. 12 hours total. When you get to the 100foot pitch don't go left in to the small gully and bring the whole cliff face down like my colleague did... I wouldn't say it's the most adventurous route in the UK - I think Great Gully is a good contender for that! Keep an opened mind and kinda ignore the terrible route descriptions! Be careful.

with Peter Metcalfe
Hidden 28/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden 24/Aug/15 AltLd dnf
CaelanB 30/Jul/15 AltLd dnf

sadly the clouds came in at pitch 12 and we decided to bail. Proved to be a good decision as it started to rain. Good day though, should've started a bit earlier, tale here:

with ben gibson
Gibson27 ?/Jul/15 AltLd dnf

Such an amazing adventure day!! Shame we didn't get to finish it due to having a late start!

with Caelen Barnes
Big Rog ??/2015 -
Big Rog ??/2015 -
mattkemp70 ??/2015 -
mattkemp70 ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/14 AltLd
ColdAndWet 11/Sep/14 AltLd
with Jeremy Windsor
alice_loudon 04/Sep/14 2nd
with Niels
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Captain Solo 25/Jul/14 Solo rpt

Another excellent outing, the converging walls move still stops me in my tracks.

Dougbart 29/Jun/14 Lead
with Rob
MD 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

It took us about 12.5 hours car to car though we did more than 16 pitches. Several large icebergs in the gully one blocking most of the gully. It was dry until the devil's cauldron at which point it began to drizzle as we started the crux. We scrambled up to the ridge above, traversed left past the neighbouring gully and descended the ridge back to the road.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

A stonking gully route. More than 15 pitches and sparse gear (if any!) on most sections. Loose rock, slimy in places, adds to the experience as did navigating snow-bergs and the converging walls pitch (glad to be on second for that one!) Cauldron 4c pitch wet so took 4b route out but still a long chossy scramble to the summit ridge after that. Midgie hats essential once out. Walked down SE ridge scree and steep southern heather slope to make last food order at the Clachaig Inn!

with Mike D
Col Kingshott 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Some large snow formations and dodgy rock. Mostly dry. Top day out. 12hrs car to car. 16 pitches, maybe!

CallumSmith 17/Jun/14 AltLd

mind altering indeed.

Hidden 17/Jun/14 AltLd
Graham Westbrook 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Pretty wet and pretty epic! Escaping the Devil's cauldron was tough, the direct route looked insane! Still a lot of snow but we managed to just about avoid it all.

mjackson 14/Jun/14 -
foostu4 04/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Will be back, stopped by ice in the gully around pitch 8

Hidden ??/2014 -
jonnie3430 ??/2014 -

Did it again as a five, still awesome. 2 racks, 3 half ropes, first 2 seconds went exploring meant we started at 11 and were down by half 8. Have questioned direct finish as it was well 'ard. Only way someone said it goes is by belaying in the cave and forcing the chimney. This seemed nails; I may be weak. My suggestion is that it goes by the chimney about 5m left of the cave; which isn't very direct. "Photo book," here:

Hidden ??/2014 AltLd
picasso 20/Jul/13 AltLd


Roberttaylor 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

5 1/2 hours in very good dry conditions, climbing as a three. Amazing route, topped out to an inversion to the North and fantastic views all round.

with Jacob Davies, Jamie Sparkes
JamieSparkes 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

fantastic, bone dry conditions, we actually ran out of water! took the south chimney exit and then a rising traverse back into the gully above the direct at E1 4b (loose and gearless - not recommended!) then scrambled direct up the remainder of the gully - with a fine HS 4b pitch up a steep step in the middle of it - well worth seeking out. article here :

with Jacob Davies, Robert Taylor
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Hugh Macgregor 17/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
gjd 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Getting dark and threatening to rain so took the easy exit, but in the dark and cloud we couldn't find the descent terraces, so ended up at the summit. Long walk down and back to the car - an Epic!

Mapleleaf 12/Aug/12 AltLd

Very long climb with about 16 pitches. Started at 10 am & topped out at about 9:30 pm. Total hours, about 15 1/2hrs.

jack_eadie 04/Jun/12 AltLd dnf

Climbed as a three got half way then bailed due to lack of time. Climbed some nice pitches and some scary ones! May or may not return.

mikemartin 04/Jun/12 AltLd dnf
Graeme Hammond 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S

True epic! (starting at nearly midday didn't help) climbed through the night, should have made a better effort to bail after pitch 10 (scary for VS) at about 9.30 like the two students we where following. Once dark things slowed down. Started leading the left wall exit in in pitch black darkness just after midnight and toped out with no head torch after it fell to bits near the top of the pitch. Things got easier from there as the moon was very bright once out of the Chasm and not long after that it got light again. Went to the summit before heading down in total 21 hours. Felt like a proper punter and it was almost in perfect nick too being very dry. Climbed several pitches by harder variations though, and wasn't expecting it all to feel so hard or bold. Must be total nightmare when wet. Would have attempted the direct finish if it hadn't been so late. Maybe I'll be back....

with Becky E
Becky E 03/Jun/12 2nd O/S

See Graeme's commentary... we somehow missed out the 100 foot pitch and climbed the tottering choss to the left: not recommended! Being on the summit iof Buachaille Etive Mor at 5am was pretty good though.

cookacat 03/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Didn't lead either of the 4c pitches. The only route to date on which I have successfully smeared on wet moss.

with Dafydd
Dafydd Llywelyn 03/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led the crux pitches... good fun, a very different day out!

Hidden 02/Jun/12 2nd
65m moderate millington ?/Jun/12 AltLd dnf

Well, think you'll remember this one without a comprehensive note :)

with mehmet karatay
radioshed 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

about 9 hours en route as a 4, pretty dry, lovely apart from the loose bits. I led 1 pitch only.

with Reuben, dave s, andy t
David Stevens 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Matt Craig, Reuben Crook, Andy Thompson
Plungeman 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
crookachili 27/May/12 AltLd
Tim Hamlet 23/May/12 AltLd
beardy mike ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -

While it is nice to have done The Chasm, it was, in retrospect, a waste of a beautiful Easter Day that could have been spent climbing....

robertmichaeladams 13/Aug/11 AltLd dnf

Managed the first few pitches, quite wet, we wussed out ... a questionable wet day choice!

with Lawrence
wence 13/Aug/11 AltLd dnf


with Rob
tomdude 13/Aug/11 Lead dnf

not a great option in the wet!

with marie
sparbus 30/Jul/11 AltLd
with mike b
Tightsgirl 03/Jul/11 AltLd

Epic day out

with Alfie Tipler
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd
brianrunner ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
KeithAlexander 26/Jun/10 AltLd

fairly dryish. 9 hours.

with karinh
karinh 26/Jun/10 AltLd
Captain Solo 20/Jun/10 Solo

An amazing climb, very dry condition and wholeheartedly recommended. Finished via 4b option up left, direct finish was so tempting but didn't fancy it solo.

Lawrie Brand 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Ridiculous, but great fun. Finished via south wall option, direct looked almost do-able, but a bit wet. Converging wall pitch was a bit worrying.. Great day out

with Mina, John Chivall
jfmchivall 19/Jun/10 AltLd

Absolute classic day out.

with Mina Al Murani, Lawrie Brand
crazy pierre 18/Jun/10 AltLd dnf

Some amazing pitches, although scrambling up nothing but loose choss and grass on others. Had to escape at the 7th pitch. Amazing atmosphere.

frume 18/Jun/10 AltLd dnf

Did First 8 pitches on a fantastic day climbing with Andy. Found it quite dirty in places and some tricky pitches where the rock is very loose and vegitated. The good pitches were fantastic and the bad ones horrible. will come back and finish.

tumbling wizard ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd
Smelly Fox 17/Apr/10 AltLd dnf

Memorable!!! Especially the Converging Corners. Had to miss out the Devil's Cauldron as the gully was full of snow.

s kennedy 17/Apr/10 AltLd
with tris fox
R0bbie 09/Apr/10 AltLd dnf

After slithering up the first difficulties we decided not to try to climb under a waterfall.

with Taba
smcw ?/Apr/10 AltLd

four of us, long cray route, belaying in a waterfall pitch one!!

ZA ?/Apr/10 2nd
with kenny
Brendan 17/Oct/09 AltLd dnf

Esoteric madness! We managed to do pitches 1 to 8 before it got dark. It's a bit annoying that none of the first four pitches are in the guide, we had a nightmare trying to figure out where we were. P1 waterfall was... memorable. Will be back for the second half!

with Andy
burto 26/Sep/09 AltLd
with moleo
Andy Moles 26/Sep/09 AltLd

Oldschool! No guidebook, a small selection of nuts and hexes, managed it in about 5-6 hours moving together on a lot of the pitches. Maybe didn't choose the easiest line but parts felt a lot harder than VS in the conditions (i.e. waterfall)!

with Burton
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
jaggy bunnet 05/Jul/09 AltLd
with frazzy4
Neil Adams 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Proper old-fashioned adventure - an utterly ridiculous route but great fun!

with Dougal
Hidden 03/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 AltLd dnf
Hidden 11/Jun/09 AltLd
jimorothy 02/Jun/09 Lead

We climbed for 11 hours of unparalleled madness/brilliance/wetness - probably making things unnecessarily harder for ourselves in search of the authentic line. The converging walls pitch is bold to say the least... but incredible. Finished the Devil's Cauldron by Odell's original challenging South Chimney (supposedly the hardest finish), well hats off to anyone who can do that desperate looking direct finish.

with Rachel Crolla
Steve Perry ?/Jun/09 AltLd

Rockfall cut our rope so bailed out.

John Dale 31/May/09 AltLd

Fairly dry. Converging Walls pitch is a good one to second...

with Rob Maccallum
Justin Tracey 15/May/09 AltLd
with Steve Hall John Crotty C Wiggleswoth
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2009 -
with Clare
jaggy bunnet 07/Sep/08 AltLd
with frazzy4
Paz 10/Jun/08 AltLd dnf

Got about 2 pitchs in.

with SC
jaybob ?/Jun/08 AltLd
with gareth
vinders ?/Jun/08 AltLd

Hectic day, but 10 hours of cracking climbing. We were away to do the long climb on the ben but it was pissing down so we opted for this. had been raining all the previous day with some strong showers that day also so I got predictably freezing and wet on the first proper waterfall pitch. Nothing elso for it as I just had shorts on so I pulled my socks up, much better. All in all a brilliant climb, just need to get back and finish the last 3 pitches!! In the dry this time.

with Jamie
vinders ??/2008 -
with Jamie
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd dnf
Clucky 20/Sep/06 AltLd dog

An amazing experience in mountain boots! Decked out from a good few metres on Red Slab pitch, knocked a big-ass 'flatscreen TV' sized rock off, almost hitting Rob. Even ended up having to get pulled up the converging chimneys pitch. Second to none!!

with Rob Greenwood
jonnie3430 07/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

After dry spell, didn't get wet.

with Ewan
Hidden ??/2006 Solo O/S
Charlie wp Hill ??/2006 -
bandersnatch ??/2006 -
dangates ??/2005 AltLd
with Kirk / Mike B
Hidden 02/May/04 AltLd
steveP ?/May/04 AltLd O/S

World class choss!

joe king ?/May/04 AltLd
with steveP
joe king ?/Oct/03 -
with steve petit
Hidden ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Yourlead 22/Jun/01 AltLd

Epic climb and took South Wall finnish - Saw an egale

with Raymond Simpson
Hidden 08/Aug/99 AltLd
IanMcC 08/Aug/99 AltLd


with Jimbo
Ian Jones ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S

Started in bendy boots but changed to rockshoes straight away. Quite hard I thought and I was leading E4 at the time.

with Ali Reed
Hidden ?/Jun/91 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/91 AltLd
auld al ??/1991 AltLd O/S

1st 5 pitches only due to rain

Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
Nigel Bond 02/Jun/86 Lead
with Roger Skews
rogerskews 01/Jun/85 -

Start of a stunning week!!!!! Left the car at 6.30am and returned at 9.30pm!! so be prepared for a long and memorable day! Also a massive block of old snow (15ft cube) disappeared not long after we posed for photos standing on it - gulp! - definitely mind altering !. We finished up the south chimney as it looked the softest option at the end of a long and very wet day. One look at the direct finish, and anything else is a soft option ! Addicted, we did Clachaig Gully the following day - a stroll in comparison!

Richard Weller ?/Aug/84 AltLd
with john sanders
Lone Rider ??/1982 AltLd
Rob Davies ?/Sep/81 AltLd

Climbing as 2 pairs. Exit via South Wall. Very dry!

with Mike Papworth, Jack Brindle, Roy Lindsay
Chris Dickinson ??/1981 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1975 -

With Doug.

uphillnow ?/Apr/65 AltLd
with John Grieve
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Votes cast 31
Votes cast 33
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