The Chasm*** VS
[100 ft waterfall pitch. the chasm., 3 kb]450m, 16 pitches. Mind-altering!

Ticklists: Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Through Routes!, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2.

Photo: 100 ft waterfall pitch. the chasm. © drew52
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 105 logbooks, and on 128 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Sep/14

ColdAndWet - AltLd - 11/Sep/14 with Jeremy Windsor

alice_loudon - 2nd - 04/Sep/14 with Niels

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/14

Another excellent outing, the converging walls move still stops me in my tracks.
Captain Solo - Solo rpt - 25/Jul/14

Dougbart - Lead - 29/Jun/14 with Rob

It took us about 12.5 hours car to car though we did more than 16 pitches. Several large icebergs in the gully one blocking most of the gully. It was dry until the devil's cauldron at which point it began to drizzle as we started the crux. We scrambled up to the ridge above, traversed left past the neighbouring gully and descended the ridge back to the road.
MD - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Jo

A stonking gully route. More than 15 pitches and sparse gear (if any!) on most sections. Loose rock, slimy in places, adds to the experience as did navigating snow-bergs and the converging walls pitch (glad to be on second for that one!) Cauldron 4c pitch wet so took 4b route out but still a long chossy scramble to the summit ridge after that. Midgie hats essential once out. Walked down SE ridge scree and steep southern heather slope to make last food order at the Clachaig Inn!
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Mike D

Some large snow formations and dodgy rock. Mostly dry. Top day out. 12hrs car to car. 16 pitches, maybe!
Col Kingshott - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/14

mind altering indeed.
CallumSmith - AltLd - 17/Jun/14

Pretty wet and pretty epic! Escaping the Devil's cauldron was tough, the direct route looked insane! Still a lot of snow but we managed to just about avoid it all.
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14

mjackson - 14/Jun/14

Will be back, stopped by ice in the gully around pitch 8
foostu4 - AltLd dnf - 04/Jun/14

Hidden - 2014

Did it again as a five, still awesome. 2 racks, 3 half ropes, first 2 seconds went exploring meant we started at 11 and were down by half 8. Have questioned direct finish as it was well 'ard. Only way someone said it goes is by belaying in the cave and forcing the chimney. This seemed nails; I may be weak. My suggestion is that it goes by the chimney about 5m left of the cave; which isn't very direct. "Photo book," here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/2232511881/permalink/10152747423456882/
jonnie3430 - 2014

5 1/2 hours in very good dry conditions, climbing as a three. Amazing route, topped out to an inversion to the North and fantastic views all round.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Jacob Davies, Jamie Sparkes

fantastic, bone dry conditions, we actually ran out of water! took the south chimney exit and then a rising traverse back into the gully above the direct at E1 4b (loose and gearless - not recommended!) then scrambled direct up the remainder of the gully - with a fine HS 4b pitch up a steep step in the middle of it - well worth seeking out. article here : http://bit.ly/1c33PvZ
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Jacob Davies, Robert Taylor

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

Hidden - 2013

Getting dark and threatening to rain so took the easy exit, but in the dark and cloud we couldn't find the descent terraces, so ended up at the summit. Long walk down and back to the car - an Epic!
gjd - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Mapleleaf

Very long climb with about 16 pitches. Started at 10 am & topped out at about 9:30 pm. Total hours, about 15 1/2hrs.
Mapleleaf - AltLd - 12/Aug/12 with Geoff Der

Climbed as a three got half way then bailed due to lack of time. Climbed some nice pitches and some scary ones! May or may not return.
jack_eadie - AltLd dnf - 04/Jun/12

mikemartin - AltLd dnf - 04/Jun/12

True epic! (starting at nearly midday didn't help) climbed through the night, should have made a better effort to bail after pitch 10 (scary for VS) at about 9.30 like the two students we where following. Once dark things slowed down. Started leading the left wall exit in in pitch black darkness just after midnight and toped out with no head torch after it fell to bits near the top of the pitch. Things got easier from there as the moon was very bright once out of the Chasm and not long after that it got light again. Went to the summit before heading down in total 21 hours. Felt like a proper punter and it was almost in perfect nick too being very dry. Climbed several pitches by harder variations though, and wasn't expecting it all to feel so hard or bold. Must be total nightmare when wet. Would have attempted the direct finish if it hadn't been so late. Maybe I'll be back....
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Becky E

See Graeme's commentary... we somehow missed out the 100 foot pitch and climbed the tottering choss to the left: not recommended! Being on the summit iof Buachaille Etive Mor at 5am was pretty good though.
Becky E - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Graeme Hammond

Didn't lead either of the 4c pitches. The only route to date on which I have successfully smeared on wet moss.
cookacat - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Dafydd

Led the crux pitches... good fun, a very different day out!
Dafydd Llywelyn - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Alex Minshall

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/12

Well, think you'll remember this one without a comprehensive note :)
65m moderate millington - AltLd dnf - Jun/12 with mehmet karatay

about 9 hours en route as a 4, pretty dry, lovely apart from the loose bits. I led 1 pitch only.
radioshed - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Reuben, dave s, andy t

David Stevens - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Matt Craig, Reuben Crook, Andy Thompson

Thoms6974 - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Reuben, Dave S, Matt

crookachili - AltLd - 27/May/12 with Matt Craig, Dave Stevens, Andy Thomson

Tim Hamlet - AltLd - 23/May/12

beardy mike - 2012

TheAndyBarker - 2012

TheAndyBarker - 2012

alan moore - 2012

Managed the first few pitches, quite wet, we wussed out ... a questionable wet day choice!
robertmichaeladams - AltLd dnf - 13/Aug/11 with Lawrence

damp
wence - AltLd dnf - 13/Aug/11 with Rob

not a great option in the wet!
tomdude - Lead dnf - 13/Aug/11 with marie

sparbus - AltLd - 30/Jul/11 with mike b

Epic day out
Tightsgirl - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Alfie Tipler

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/11

brianrunner - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 28/Aug/10

fairly dryish. 9 hours.
KeithAlexander - AltLd - 26/Jun/10 with karinh

karinh - AltLd - 26/Jun/10 with KeithAlexander

An amazing climb, very dry condition and wholeheartedly recommended. Finished via 4b option up left, direct finish was so tempting but didn't fancy it solo.
Captain Solo - Solo - 20/Jun/10

Ridiculous, but great fun. Finished via south wall option, direct looked almost do-able, but a bit wet. Converging wall pitch was a bit worrying.. Great day out
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Mina, John Chivall

Absolute classic day out.
jfmchivall - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Mina Al Murani, Lawrie Brand

Some amazing pitches, although scrambling up nothing but loose choss and grass on others. Had to escape at the 7th pitch. Amazing atmosphere.
crazy pierre - AltLd dnf - 18/Jun/10 with Paul Ireland

Did First 8 pitches on a fantastic day climbing with Andy. Found it quite dirty in places and some tricky pitches where the rock is very loose and vegitated. The good pitches were fantastic and the bad ones horrible. will come back and finish.
frume - AltLd dnf - 18/Jun/10 with Andy Edwards

Hidden - AltLd - 22/May/10

Memorable!!! Especially the Converging Corners. Had to miss out the Devil's Cauldron as the gully was full of snow.
Smelly Fox - AltLd dnf - 17/Apr/10 with Stuart Kennedy

s kennedy - AltLd - 17/Apr/10 with tris fox

After slithering up the first difficulties we decided not to try to climb under a waterfall.
R0bbie - AltLd dnf - 09/Apr/10 with Taba

four of us, long cray route, belaying in a waterfall pitch one!!
smcw - AltLd - Apr/10

ZA - 2nd - Apr/10 with kenny

Esoteric madness! We managed to do pitches 1 to 8 before it got dark. It's a bit annoying that none of the first four pitches are in the guide, we had a nightmare trying to figure out where we were. P1 waterfall was... memorable. Will be back for the second half!
Brendan - AltLd dnf - 17/Oct/09 with Andy

burto - AltLd - 26/Sep/09 with moleo

Oldschool! No guidebook, a small selection of nuts and hexes, managed it in about 5-6 hours moving together on a lot of the pitches. Maybe didn't choose the easiest line but parts felt a lot harder than VS in the conditions (i.e. waterfall)!
Andy Moles - AltLd - 26/Sep/09 with Burton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

jaggy bunnet - AltLd - 05/Jul/09 with frazzy4

Proper old-fashioned adventure - an utterly ridiculous route but great fun!
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Dougal

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/09

We climbed for 11 hours of unparalleled madness/brilliance/wetness - probably making things unnecessarily harder for ourselves in search of the authentic line. The converging walls pitch is bold to say the least... but incredible. Finished the Devil's Cauldron by Odell's original challenging South Chimney (supposedly the hardest finish), well hats off to anyone who can do that desperate looking direct finish.
jimorothy - Lead - 02/Jun/09 with Rachel Crolla

Fairly dry. Converging Walls pitch is a good one to second...
John Dale - AltLd - 31/May/09 with Rob Maccallum

Justin Tracey - AltLd - 15/May/09 with Steve Hall John Crotty C Wiggleswoth

Steve Lenartowicz - 2009 with Clare

jaggy bunnet - AltLd - 07/Sep/08 with frazzy4

Got about 2 pitchs in.
Paz - AltLd dnf - 10/Jun/08 with SC

jaybob - AltLd - Jun/08 with gareth

Hectic day, but 10 hours of cracking climbing. We were away to do the long climb on the ben but it was pissing down so we opted for this. had been raining all the previous day with some strong showers that day also so I got predictably freezing and wet on the first proper waterfall pitch. Nothing elso for it as I just had shorts on so I pulled my socks up, much better. All in all a brilliant climb, just need to get back and finish the last 3 pitches!! In the dry this time.
vinders - AltLd - Jun/08 with Jamie

vinders - 2008 with Jamie

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 2007

An amazing experience in mountain boots! Decked out from a good few metres on Red Slab pitch, knocked a big-ass 'flatscreen TV' sized rock off, almost hitting Rob. Even ended up having to get pulled up the converging chimneys pitch. Second to none!!
Clucky - AltLd dog - 20/Sep/06 with Rob Greenwood

After dry spell, didn't get wet.
jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/06 with Ewan

westaway - Solo O/S - 2006

Charlie wp Hill - 2006

bandersnatch - 2006

dangates - AltLd - 2005 with Kirk / Mike B

Hidden - AltLd - 02/May/04

World class choss!
steveP - AltLd O/S - May/04 with Paul Rowlands

joe king - Oct/03 with steve petit

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/03

Epic climb and took South Wall finnish - Saw an egale
Yourlead - AltLd - 22/Jun/01 with Raymond Simpson

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/99

Started in bendy boots but changed to rockshoes straight away. Quite hard I thought and I was leading E4 at the time.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Jun/97 with Ali Reed

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/91

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/91

1st 5 pitches only due to rain
auld al - AltLd O/S - 1991

Nigel Bond - Lead - 02/Jun/86 with Roger Skews

Start of a stunning week!!!!! Left the car at 6.30am and returned at 9.30pm!! so be prepared for a long and memorable day! Also a massive block of old snow (15ft cube) disappeared not long after we posed for photos standing on it - gulp! - definitely mind altering !.
rogerskews - 01/Jun/85 with Nigel Bond

Richard Weller - AltLd - Aug/84 with john sanders

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1982

With Doug.
Chris Craggs - 1975

David Smith - AltLd - Apr/65 with John Grieve

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Voting
Total votes cast 58
hard HVS0 of 28
HVS0 of 28
easy HVS9 of 28
hard VS10 of 28
VS9 of 28
easy VS0 of 28
hard HS0 of 28
HS0 of 28
easy HS0 of 28
3 Stars27 of 30
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1 Star1 of 30
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