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Eastern Gully* III 3

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[Simon Jones,leading first pitch of Eastern Gully., 2 kb]The deep gully on the far left of the crag 1) 3, 45m. A steep icefall-start gives access to the gully proper. An easier start from the right is possible if the ice hasn't formed 2) 1, 65m. Follow the easy central gully 3) 2, 90m. Take the steeper right-hand finish. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: Simon Jones,leading first pitch of Eastern Gully. © Wyn Bach
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Nick Biven - 2014

khawk - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with JB, RT

45m perfect, plastic ice, 70m reasonable, step-kicking snow, 90m loose, soft wind-slab. Character-building.
Pete_Frost - Solo O/S - 31/Mar/13

First real taste of UK ice on the first pitch which Rob led, great fun. I led the second on easy mixed ground before moving together up the open gully and taking the right hand split. Lots of soft powder.
Ragingpossum - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/13 with R_W_M

Late start. went on the right hand ice ramp at the beginning. ice was a bit dubious in a couple of places, gully was soft snow most of the way up but reasonably sound, gear quite sparse, moved together once in main gully
R_W_M - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Will B

Direct start, good at the bottom turning quite serious at 20mtrs, went right up the steep bit ran out of ice screws ! felt pretty full on for the grade/conditions...
mr mills - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Simon van Damn, Chris

SimonvanDam - 29/Mar/13

First pitch only. Ice was really good.
thrutch - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/13 with Craig

Wished we had more screws!
scottidog - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/13 with Carl Peachey

First big winter route. Good ice on bottom half of 1st pitch, upper section was a bit sketch city so we traversed around to the right. Good fun in the gully, snow a bit soft & a couple of tricky moves near the top.
peachos - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/13 with Scott Stanley

Great varied route in todays conditions. Plenty of ice on the first pitch but poor quality. Two fairly difficult chockstones at three quarters height which would be more straight forward with more snow.
Ben Hollands - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Dan the man, Wendy Anderson

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jan/11

Wyn Bach - 2nd O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Ched, Simon Jones

mark_jc - AltLd - 09/Jan/11

Little B - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Simon

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

mike.moss - Solo O/S - 26/Dec/10

Ed F - AltLd O/S - 15/Dec/10 with Bubbles

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Dec/10

Very thin!!! Great ice pitch to start, then plenty of technical mixed sections along the route to overcome various short steps.
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/10 with Tim Evans

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/10

hepitt - Solo - 06/Dec/10

Direct start, easy snow to the top, felt easy for the grade.
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd - 13/Feb/10 with Jim Walton

Lead direct up icefall then moved together for rest
Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Alexandre Buisse

Difficult finding start in the cloud, traversed in from the left over easy mixed ground. Great route with a nice crux.
MikeLell - Solo O/S - 01/Feb/10

Hidden - 01/Feb/10

kenneM - AltLd O/S - Feb/10 with Steve Crosby-Jones, Moony

Direct start, which felt hard for grade III.
cjc2001 - 2nd - 31/Jan/10

Lovely weather and good conditions.
Gezzer - 30/Jan/10 with Andy Towne

alexrafferty1986 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/10 with Zoomer

Went direct on first pitch (III) the rest was a snow plod with one step near the top. Great day out but route a it of a let down.
Zoomer - AltLd - 03/Jan/10 with Alex Rafferty

rob k - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/10 with A Garcon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jan/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/10

Hidden - 01/Jan/10

Will Williams - AltLd O/S - Jan/10

lukewilliams - AltLd O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Good ice, powdery snow. Difficilt chockstone higher up in gully due to unconsolidated snow.
Cardi - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/09 with Pete D

tom_holdsworth - AltLd - 14/Feb/09 with Mike Kennedy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09

tumbling wizard - Feb/09

First pitch wasn't formed so traversed in from the right. Poor quality snow and ice for most of the route, needs a good freeze. Great fun though!
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/09 with lithos and Carmen

Sean Kelly - 2008

Very banked out, easier than the grade suggests.
nicholas Barrowclough - Solo O/S - 19/Mar/06

TGreen - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/06 with Martin G

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ander - AltLd - Jan/04 with Ollie

aged_ape - AltLd O/S - Mar/02 with Rob T

zero six - Solo - 2000

mark-abz - Solo - Feb/91 with Andy W

ChrisJD - Lead - 16/Dec/90

neilh - Solo O/S - 19/Jan/85

Ched - Solo - 1985 with Glyn

First time in crampons. Axe leashes were bootlaces. Led the iced slabs .....ssssccccary!
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - Nov/81 with Ian Owen

Hidden - Solo - 1980

pneame - 15/Feb/72

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
CM1992, Hidden, FrankBooth, DannyK, iksander, Tom Hecht, Hidden, Ewan Russell, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 45
hard IV0 of 15
IV0 of 15
easy IV0 of 15
hard III1 of 15
III10 of 15
easy III4 of 15
hard II/III0 of 15
II/III0 of 15
easy II/III0 of 15
hard 40 of 15
40 of 15
easy 40 of 15
hard 31 of 15
310 of 15
easy 34 of 15
hard 20 of 15
20 of 15
easy 20 of 15
3 Stars0 of 15
2 Stars12 of 15
1 Star1 of 15
0 Stars2 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Soloed11 of 60 (18.3%)
Lead6 of 60 (10.0%)
Followed4 of 60 (6.7%)
Alt Leads25 of 60 (41.7%)
Unknown14 of 60 (23.3%)

'Climbed'28 of 60 (46.7%)
clean O/S31 of 60 (51.7%)
clean rpt1 of 60 (1.7%)