The direct start up the arete

Ticklists: Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

mrteale 25/Oct 2nd
with DanOsb
jamesb101 17/Oct Lead O/S

Well worth the 3 stars.

with lucy
Stroppy 17/Oct 2nd O/S

Great route, moves flow really nicely

with Ben Corbey
jshields 04/Oct Lead
Neal Jobling 03/Oct Lead O/S

Fantastic climb!

with Aline
kleinej 13/Sep 2nd dog
with Vince
No? Yes! 12/Sep 2nd

Another Rob lead.Felt more like 5A this time following.

Georgie25 30/Aug 2nd
Keith Swainson 30/Aug Lead O/S
with Georgie
TobyA 29/Aug 2nd O/S
with Dave
Dave 29/Aug Lead O/S
JHiley 16/Aug Lead RP

Made a right mess of the end this time but managed to squirm on to the handlebar jug.

with Robin
Hidden 15/Aug Lead rpt
Ian Saxton 06/Aug 2nd
with martin
David_Gledson 05/Aug 2nd O/S
with Alan
martinbettridge06 05/Aug Lead
LakesWinter 31/Jul Lead O/S

Did the original start, then downclimbed and did this start too.

with Nigel
migs493 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Jim Borrington
Dexter JW 12/Jul Lead O/S

Pumpy, but with some 'interesting' rests. Bit run out to finish to ensure clean accent. Came together, very rewarding. Gear generally pretty good if you can hang around. Awesome route!

Deary65 12/Jul 2nd O/S

Pumpy but awesome

with Dexter
JHiley 11/Jul Lead dog

Argh frustrating! Managed the lower arÍte fine and then had to rest on the crux of the normal route which I'd done clean before. Had forgotten where all the holds are.

with Irena, PCC
Hidden 09/Jul 2nd O/S
cem 05/Jul Lead rpt

First time I'd led the direct version although I'd done it before.

eldre070 05/Jul 2nd dog

Too much for my weak arms. Very stiff all the way, once swung round left at the block.

with Cem
Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
David Staples 04/Jul 2nd O/S
Jules Lane 07/Jun Lead dnf

Great climbing, shame I was too weedy to push on to the top section, but got as far as top of the crack on the left before resting, trying again and chickening out as the next section looked both tough and strenuous. Have to come back and bring more stamina...

with Mynydd Paul Justin
Alan James - UKC and UKH 07/Jun 2nd
Hidden 23/May 2nd
Bernie L 19/Apr Lead
JulianB 19/Apr 2nd O/S
mjeffery 16/Apr Lead O/S
Mr Wild 05/Apr Lead O/S
chris fox 14/Mar Lead O/S

superb and pumpy

MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead O/S
lena.drapella 02/Nov/14 2nd RP
with Niels
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with James Hall
masonwoods101 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nick ferro 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S


C May 27/Sep/14 2nd
with Nick
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd β
djones66 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Thoroughly recommended. Another time I suppose I might try the original indirect start but hen again, the direct start is so much fun I might just repeat it.

with Stve mc D
ColdAndWet 27/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd
fuzzysheep01 03/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Graham Perry
Teappleby 03/Aug/14 Lead

hard for the grade, felt almost worth E1.

treg 20/Jul/14 Lead

Went up this again to help some lads get their gear after not finishing.

Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf
quickdrawmcraw 01/Jun/14 Lead β
with hannah
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd dog
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd dog
mountaingoatgirl 17/May/14 2nd
with Alli Brazil, Nick Hawkins
treg 16/May/14 Lead dog

Bummer to have rested on this before the hard looking bit up to the final break/traverse to the ledge. Spent too long placing gear and then anticipated the next bit being tough so took a rest, but actually found the finish straight forward with the crux probably being a balancy move on the initial arete a few metres up.

with Bird
Matt250 30/Mar/14 Lead dog
Budge 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with James from the Club, Ade
Hidden ??/2014 -
ralphio 02/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Found this really pumpy. The holds are all good and its not to technical but there's a lot o hanging on whilst placing gear. Really great climb though very sustained.

Hidden 02/Dec/13 2nd O/S
Hardcore Pat 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
SPD224 08/Sep/13 2nd
with Martin Smith
jack01 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great route , tough until the end with loads of gear

with Duncan
Wyrdstone 10/Aug/13 Lead dog
Wayne S 08/Aug/13 2nd
with Deacon
deacondeacon 08/Aug/13 Lead

Climbed up the direct start of this, then the crux of auricle followed by jumping jack longland. A nice way up the buttress

Brown 30/Jul/13 2nd
with James T
clairejane 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

placed far too much (couldn't resist all the options) so a touch slow but lovely flow none the less

Deezel65 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Steep climbing on good holds and good gear. Made tricky by a very sweaty evening

gavinpeach 29/Jun/13 2nd rpt
MikeLeeds 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Clark
Roberttaylor 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
gavinpeach 16/Jun/13 Lead β

Great HVS. Really sustained climbing all the way up. Brilliant route. Seconded the indirect version last year.

with James Lawson
Kirill 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Harder than it looks. Difficult to find any rests.

ig248 16/Jun/13 2nd
with Kirill
Darron 09/Jun/13 -
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 19/May/13 2nd
with Will Ward
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead rpt
quickdrawmcraw 04/May/13 Lead dnf
Mowglee 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Ali
Darron ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
ColinD 15/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Good exciting climbing. Pumpy for a weedy guy like me, took a no hands leg bar rest :)

ianjfsutcliffe 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 16/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead dog
ipegg 15/Sep/12 2nd
harold walmsley 28/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Colin Struthers
Hidden 16/Aug/12 2nd
mtempest 08/Aug/12 2nd
with Richard Waltham
Jevans ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Cool route, placed too much gear on the upper bit. Enjoyable

jwpil 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
tomsmartacus 18/Jul/12 2nd β
with John Bramwell
Haydn Jones 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Ed morris 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Very steady well protected climbing

Giles1 28/May/12 Lead O/S
with Lucy
Rich Kirby 12/May/12 2nd
with Ruth
dangerousoldfool ?/May/12 2nd O/S

Great direct line. Must lead this.

with Matt
stuaart 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Managed to use a heelhook on the crux of this. Not sure what that is a sign of.

with Neil Redgrave
Falko 15/Mar/12 Lead rpt

So good that I came back for a repeat after only two days! Les had enjoyed the route two days earlier and Al couldn't remember if he'd done this in the 70s - so I offered my services . . .

with Les Deakin, Al W.
Les Deakin 15/Mar/12 2nd
with Falko Rech
Falko 13/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Did the direct start because another team were doing Auricle ('Bubblewrap' and friends). Glad we did because it was delightful. I wish I could award four stars for the route as a whole and cannot understand why I haven't done it before!

with Les Deakin
melonmike 06/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Josh
tom.e ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 2nd
adie84 ??/2012 -
sopaz 06/Nov/11 2nd
Hardonicus 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Arrrghhh. Not again, too much pump!

with nick a, Luke Donaldson
buxtoncoffeelover 04/Oct/11 Lead
Sebastien Gastaud 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
tigertim 02/Oct/11 2nd
fatbuoybazza 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead
max_chan 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with John PCC
Jim Slater 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
ben_250 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
dprctr 26/Jun/11 Lead β
tom.ireson 26/Jun/11 2nd β

pumpy and sustained for the grade, especially when gear-fiddling. Luckily I got to second it instead!

with Paul Jones, David Proctor
Paul D Jones 26/Jun/11 Lead
with Dave Proctor, Tom Ireson
Rosie Henstock 11/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd β
Daymo 15/May/11 2nd dog
with DJ
deejmonkey 15/May/11 Lead
with Damian
Gustav 17/Apr/11 Lead dog

1 rest, disappointing! Fantastic route though

with James H
Jimbo C 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Very strong line, and very strong pump. The most pumped I've ever been, was very tempted to dog but glad I didn't. I must do some more deadhangs.

with Pete
mary 27/Mar/11 2nd dog

Blummin heck Tony!

with Tony
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
ollie_e ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Nov/10 TR
jaimer 07/Nov/10 Lead dog
hellboundblr 31/Oct/10 Lead
with LCCC
d_meacher 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Simon White
irish paul 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
ojp 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
tim newton 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with roger bennion
RFWilkie 11/Sep/10 Lead dog

Had to rest before final moves. Very pumpy.

dashitboarder 01/Aug/10 Lead dog

With direct start - had to rest on the rope too pumped.

Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
cem 18/Apr/10 2nd
with Mark O'Neill
Hidden 09/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Peter Holder 19/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/10 2nd O/S
keith leonard ??/2010 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/Oct/09 Lead
melonmike 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
MRichardson 12/Sep/09 2nd dog
Em66 12/Sep/09 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 13/Aug/09 Lead
spacey 11/Jul/09 2nd O/S
davidwright 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd
hash 25/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead
danoflynn 02/Jan/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
gillybon ??/2009 Lead
Graeme Hammond 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with luke, Duck
Shauna 23/Aug/08 2nd O/S
mullermn 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Very nice route

with Monkey
Monk 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S

This is a fantastic route. Really nice moves in a lovely position.

Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd
mattyork2 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Becky E 11/May/08 2nd

after attemtping the lead and falling off.

Hannah Moulton ??/2008 TR
with Gav
drysori ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/07 -
mje1398 05/Aug/07 2nd dog
with John M
Pythonist 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S
adam carless 03/Aug/07 2nd
Stoney Boy ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Gould
howlingbaboon 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Roget 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/05 2nd
nickcanute ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 -
goi.ashmore 24/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Billg 24/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
Ropeboy 09/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden 10/Oct/93 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kleinej, Jules Lane, DanChad, disrail, Hidden, Hidden, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, The Norris, Hidden, hamishjoe, Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, b.hayley, Hidden, climbingrick, mullermn, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 38
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set