Derbyshire > Bamford Edge >
 
Neb Buttress Direct*** HVS 5a

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[Neb Buttress direct, 3 kb]The direct start up the arete

Ticklists: Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: Neb Buttress direct © jim jones
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 129 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Matt250 - Lead dog - 30/Mar/14

Budge - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/14 with James from the Club, Ade

Found this really pumpy. The holds are all good and its not to technical but there's a lot o hanging on whilst placing gear. Really great climb though very sustained.
ralphio - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Dec/13

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Dr Julie

SPD224 - 2nd - 08/Sep/13 with Martin Smith

Great route , tough until the end with loads of gear
jack01 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Duncan

Wyrdstone - Lead dog - 10/Aug/13

Wayne S - 2nd - 08/Aug/13 with Deacon

Climbed up the direct start of this, then the crux of auricle followed by jumping jack longland. A nice way up the buttress
deacondeacon - Lead - 08/Aug/13

Brown - 2nd - 30/Jul/13 with James T

placed far too much (couldn't resist all the options) so a touch slow but lovely flow none the less
clairejane - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Fantastic Patrick

Steep climbing on good holds and good gear. Made tricky by a very sweaty evening
Deezel65 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Mark Bell, Cragtyke

gavinpeach - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/13 with Simon Piron

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Dave Clark

Roberttaylor - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Liam Ingram

Great HVS. Really sustained climbing all the way up. Brilliant route. Seconded the indirect version last year.
gavinpeach - Lead β - 16/Jun/13 with James Lawson

Harder than it looks. Difficult to find any rests.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Igor Gotlibovych

ig248 - 2nd - 16/Jun/13 with Kirill

Darron - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 19/May/13 with Will Ward

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/May/13

quickdrawmcraw - Lead dnf - 04/May/13

Mowglee - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Ali

Darron - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Good exciting climbing. Pumpy for a weedy guy like me, took a no hands leg bar rest :)
ColinD - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/12

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Coatesy

Richard P Coates - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with ianjfsutcliffe

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Sep/12

ipegg - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with Richard Apthorp

harold walmsley - 2nd rpt - 28/Aug/12 with Colin Struthers

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/12

Cool route, placed too much gear on the upper bit. Enjoyable
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Jon Stewart

jwpil - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with James Oswald

tomsmartacus - 2nd β - 18/Jul/12 with John Bramwell

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with andy gardner, deacon, ed morris

Very steady well protected climbing
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with haydn

Giles1 - Lead O/S - 28/May/12 with Lucy

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Ruth

Great direct line. Must lead this.
dangerousoldfool - 2nd O/S - May/12 with Matt

Managed to use a heelhook on the crux of this. Not sure what that is a sign of.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Neil Redgrave

So good that I came back for a repeat after only two days! Les had enjoyed the route two days earlier and Al couldn't remember if he'd done this in the 70s - so I offered my services . . .
Falko - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/12 with Les Deakin, Al W.

Les Deakin - 2nd - 15/Mar/12 with Falko Rech

Did the direct start because another team were doing Auricle ('Bubblewrap' and friends). Glad we did because it was delightful. I wish I could award four stars for the route as a whole and cannot understand why I haven't done it before!
Falko - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/12 with Les Deakin

melonmike - 2nd rpt - 06/Mar/12 with Josh

tom.e - Lead O/S - Mar/12 with Luke Porter

Hidden - 2nd - 2012

adie84 - 2012

sopaz - 2nd - 06/Nov/11

Arrrghhh. Not again, too much pump!
Hardonicus - Lead dnf - 16/Oct/11 with nick a, Luke Donaldson

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 04/Oct/11

Sebastien Gastaud - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Tim Selvage

tigertim - 2nd - 02/Oct/11 with Sebastien Gastaud

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with liv_the_div

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/11

Sustained
max_chan - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with John PCC

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Steve C

ben_250 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Tom

dprctr - Lead β - 26/Jun/11 with Tom Ireson

pumpy and sustained for the grade, especially when gear-fiddling. Luckily I got to second it instead!
tom.ireson - 2nd β - 26/Jun/11 with Paul Jones, David Proctor

Paul D Jones - Lead - 26/Jun/11 with Dave Proctor, Tom Ireson

Rosie Henstock - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/11 with Laurence

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/Jun/11

Daymo - 2nd dog - 15/May/11 with DJ

deejmonkey - Lead - 15/May/11 with Damian

1 rest, disappointing! Fantastic route though
Gustav - Lead dog - 17/Apr/11 with James H

Very strong line, and very strong pump. The most pumped I've ever been, was very tempted to dog but glad I didn't. I must do some more deadhangs.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Pete

Blummin heck Tony!
mary - 2nd dog - 27/Mar/11 with Tony

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2011

mwatson - 2011

thedoctorisin - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/10

Hidden - TR - 27/Nov/10

jaimer - Lead dog - 07/Nov/10 with Mikael Collin

hellboundblr - Lead - 31/Oct/10 with LCCC

d_meacher - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Simon White

irish paul - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Sarah Joyce

ojp - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Dave

tim newton - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with roger bennion

Had to rest before final moves. Very pumpy.
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 11/Sep/10

With direct start - had to rest on the rope too pumped.
dashitboarder - Lead dog - 01/Aug/10 with Dad and Jess

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/10

Peter Holder - Lead - 19/Mar/10 with Nick Valente

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/10

keith leonard - 2010

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 18/Oct/09 with Sarah Stirling, Mick Ryan

melonmike - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Emily Bond

MRichardson - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/09

Em66 - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Mike

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/09

spacey - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/09 with paul evans

davidwright - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Sam

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/09

hash - 2nd O/S - 25/May/09 with Chris Wyatt

Hidden - Lead - Apr/09

danoflynn - 2nd O/S - 02/Jan/09 with Andy Barker

Hidden - 2009

gillybon - Lead - 2009

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with luke, Duck

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with tommytwotone

Very nice route
mullermn - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/08 with Monkey

This is a fantastic route. Really nice moves in a lovely position.
Monk - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/08

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Rebecca Ellis

after attemtping the lead and falling off.
Becky E - 2nd - 11/May/08 with Matt Maynard

Hannah Moulton - TR - 2008 with Gav

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Sep/07

wolverine - Sep/07 with John Nightingale

mje1398 - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/07 with John M

Pythonist - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/07 with Adam Carless

adam carless - 2nd - 03/Aug/07 with pythonist

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Tim Gould

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Chris FitzHugh

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/07

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Apr/06

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/05

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Oct/04

Hidden - 2002

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/00 with Roy Thomas

Billg - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/99 with Phil McAllistair

Hidden - Lead - 10/Oct/93

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, The Norris, Hidden, hamishjoe, Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, b.hayley, Hidden, climbingrick, mullermn, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 68
hard E10 of 23
E10 of 23
easy E11 of 23
hard HVS10 of 23
HVS12 of 23
easy HVS0 of 23
hard VS0 of 23
VS0 of 23
easy VS0 of 23
hard 5b0 of 24
5b0 of 24
easy 5b0 of 24
hard 5a13 of 24
5a11 of 24
easy 5a0 of 24
hard 4c0 of 24
4c0 of 24
easy 4c0 of 24
3 Stars20 of 21
2 Stars1 of 21
1 Star0 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 129 (0.8%)
Lead68 of 129 (52.7%)
Followed49 of 129 (38.0%)
Toproped2 of 129 (1.6%)
Unknown9 of 129 (7.0%)

'Climbed'45 of 129 (34.9%)
clean O/S59 of 129 (45.7%)
clean β5 of 129 (3.9%)
clean rpt6 of 129 (4.7%)
dogged12 of 129 (9.3%)
dnf2 of 129 (1.6%)