Neb Buttress Direct*** HVS 5a
[Neb Buttress direct, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Starting up the lower arete is a popular way of doing this classic and only a little harder than the original version. It also causes fewer problems with the ropes. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
The direct start up the arete

Ticklists: Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: Neb Buttress direct © jim jones
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 178 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Georgie25 - 2nd - 30/Aug/15

Keith Swainson - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Georgie

TobyA - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/15 with Dave

Dave - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/15

Made a right mess of the end this time but managed to squirm on to the handlebar jug.
JHiley - Lead RP - 16/Aug/15 with Robin

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/15

Ian Saxton - 2nd - 06/Aug/15 with martin

David_Gledson - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/15 with Alan

martinbettridge06 - Lead - 05/Aug/15 with Ian Saxton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/15

migs493 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15 with Jim Borrington

Pumpy, but with some 'interesting' rests. Bit run out to finish to ensure clean accent. Came together, very rewarding. Gear generally pretty good if you can hang around. Awesome route!
Dexter JW - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/15 with Martin P

Pumpy but awesome
Deary65 - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/15 with Dexter

Argh frustrating! Managed the lower arÍte fine and then had to rest on the crux of the normal route which I'd done clean before. Had forgotten where all the holds are.
JHiley - Lead dog - 11/Jul/15 with Irena, PCC

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/15

First time I'd led the direct version although I'd done it before.
cem - Lead rpt - 05/Jul/15 with Mike Eldred

Too much for my weak arms. Very stiff all the way, once swung round left at the block.
eldre070 - 2nd dog - 05/Jul/15 with Cem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15

David Staples - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Glorious

Great climbing, shame I was too weedy to push on to the top section, but got as far as top of the crack on the left before resting, trying again and chickening out as the next section looked both tough and strenuous. Have to come back and bring more stamina...
Jules Lane - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/15 with Mynydd Paul Justin

Alan James - UKC and UKH - 2nd - 07/Jun/15 with Dominic Green

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/15

Bernie L - Lead - 19/Apr/15 with Julian Bridle

JulianB - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/15 with Bernhard Lozowski

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/15

Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/15

superb and pumpy
chris fox - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/15

lena.drapella - 2nd RP - 02/Nov/14 with Niels

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/14

Nick Wallis - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14 with James Hall

masonwoods101 - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14 with danjimwill

nick ferro - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Christine May

C May - 2nd - 27/Sep/14 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd β - 07/Sep/14

Thoroughly recommended. Another time I suppose I might try the original indirect start but hen again, the direct start is so much fun I might just repeat it.
djones66 - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Stve mc D

ColdAndWet - Lead - 27/Aug/14 with Glyn Carter

fuzzysheep01 - Lead dog - 03/Aug/14 with Graham Perry

hard for the grade, felt almost worth E1.
Teappleby - Lead - 03/Aug/14 with David Robinette

Went up this again to help some lads get their gear after not finishing.
treg - Lead - 20/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Jul/14

quickdrawmcraw - Lead β - 01/Jun/14 with hannah

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/14

mountaingoatgirl - 2nd - 17/May/14 with Alli Brazil, Nick Hawkins

Bummer to have rested on this before the hard looking bit up to the final break/traverse to the ledge. Spent too long placing gear and then anticipated the next bit being tough so took a rest, but actually found the finish straight forward with the crux probably being a balancy move on the initial arete a few metres up.
treg - Lead dog - 16/May/14 with Bird

Matt250 - Lead dog - 30/Mar/14

Budge - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/14 with James from the Club, Ade

Hidden - 2014

Found this really pumpy. The holds are all good and its not to technical but there's a lot o hanging on whilst placing gear. Really great climb though very sustained.
ralphio - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Dec/13

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Dr Julie

SPD224 - 2nd - 08/Sep/13 with Martin Smith

Great route , tough until the end with loads of gear
jack01 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Duncan

Wyrdstone - Lead dog - 10/Aug/13

Wayne S - 2nd - 08/Aug/13 with Deacon

Climbed up the direct start of this, then the crux of auricle followed by jumping jack longland. A nice way up the buttress
deacondeacon - Lead - 08/Aug/13

Brown - 2nd - 30/Jul/13 with James T

placed far too much (couldn't resist all the options) so a touch slow but lovely flow none the less
clairejane - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Fantastic Patrick

Steep climbing on good holds and good gear. Made tricky by a very sweaty evening
Deezel65 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Mark Bell, Cragtyke

gavinpeach - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/13 with Simon Piron

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Dave Clark

Roberttaylor - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Liam Ingram

Great HVS. Really sustained climbing all the way up. Brilliant route. Seconded the indirect version last year.
gavinpeach - Lead β - 16/Jun/13 with James Lawson

Harder than it looks. Difficult to find any rests.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Igor Gotlibovych

ig248 - 2nd - 16/Jun/13 with Kirill

Darron - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 19/May/13 with Will Ward

riff156 - Lead rpt - 04/May/13 with Jo Smith

quickdrawmcraw - Lead dnf - 04/May/13

Mowglee - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Ali

Darron - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Good exciting climbing. Pumpy for a weedy guy like me, took a no hands leg bar rest :)
ColinD - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/12

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Coatesy

Richard P Coates - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with ianjfsutcliffe

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Sep/12

ipegg - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with Richard Apthorp

harold walmsley - 2nd rpt - 28/Aug/12 with Colin Struthers

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/12

mtempest - 2nd - 08/Aug/12 with Richard Waltham

Jevans - Lead O/S - Aug/12

Cool route, placed too much gear on the upper bit. Enjoyable
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Jon Stewart

jwpil - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with James Oswald

tomsmartacus - 2nd β - 18/Jul/12 with John Bramwell

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with andy gardner, deacon, ed morris

Very steady well protected climbing
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with haydn jones

Giles1 - Lead O/S - 28/May/12 with Lucy

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Ruth

Great direct line. Must lead this.
dangerousoldfool - 2nd O/S - May/12 with Matt

Managed to use a heelhook on the crux of this. Not sure what that is a sign of.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Neil Redgrave

So good that I came back for a repeat after only two days! Les had enjoyed the route two days earlier and Al couldn't remember if he'd done this in the 70s - so I offered my services . . .
Falko - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/12 with Les Deakin, Al W.

Les Deakin - 2nd - 15/Mar/12 with Falko Rech

Did the direct start because another team were doing Auricle ('Bubblewrap' and friends). Glad we did because it was delightful. I wish I could award four stars for the route as a whole and cannot understand why I haven't done it before!
Falko - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/12 with Les Deakin

melonmike - 2nd rpt - 06/Mar/12 with Josh

tom.e - Lead O/S - Mar/12 with Luke Porter

Hidden - 2nd - 2012

adie84 - 2012

sopaz - 2nd - 06/Nov/11

Arrrghhh. Not again, too much pump!
Hardonicus - Lead dnf - 16/Oct/11 with nick a, Luke Donaldson

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 04/Oct/11

Sebastien Gastaud - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Tim Selvage

tigertim - 2nd - 02/Oct/11 with Sebastien Gastaud

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with liv_the_div

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/11

max_chan - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with John PCC

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Steve Carty

ben_250 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Tom

dprctr - Lead β - 26/Jun/11 with Tom Ireson

pumpy and sustained for the grade, especially when gear-fiddling. Luckily I got to second it instead!
tom.ireson - 2nd β - 26/Jun/11 with Paul Jones, David Proctor

Paul D Jones - Lead - 26/Jun/11 with Dave Proctor, Tom Ireson

Rosie Henstock - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/11 with Laurence

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/Jun/11

Daymo - 2nd dog - 15/May/11 with DJ

deejmonkey - Lead - 15/May/11 with Damian

1 rest, disappointing! Fantastic route though
Gustav - Lead dog - 17/Apr/11 with James H

Very strong line, and very strong pump. The most pumped I've ever been, was very tempted to dog but glad I didn't. I must do some more deadhangs.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Pete

Blummin heck Tony!
mary - 2nd dog - 27/Mar/11 with Tony

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2011

mwatson - 2011

ollie_e - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/10

Hidden - TR - 27/Nov/10

jaimer - Lead dog - 07/Nov/10 with Mikael Collin

hellboundblr - Lead - 31/Oct/10 with LCCC

d_meacher - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Simon White

irish paul - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Sarah Joyce

ojp - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Dave

tim newton - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with roger bennion

Had to rest before final moves. Very pumpy.
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 11/Sep/10

With direct start - had to rest on the rope too pumped.
dashitboarder - Lead dog - 01/Aug/10 with Dad and Jess

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

cem - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with Mark O'Neill

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/10

Peter Holder - Lead - 19/Mar/10 with Nick Valente

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/10

keith leonard - 2010

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 18/Oct/09 with Sarah Stirling, Mick Ryan

melonmike - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Emily Bond

MRichardson - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/09

Em66 - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Mike

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/09

spacey - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/09 with paul evans

davidwright - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Sam

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/09

hash - 2nd O/S - 25/May/09 with Chris Wyatt

Hidden - Lead - Apr/09

danoflynn - 2nd O/S - 02/Jan/09 with Andy Barker

Hidden - 2009

gillybon - Lead - 2009

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with luke, Duck

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with tommytwotone

Very nice route
mullermn - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/08 with Monkey

This is a fantastic route. Really nice moves in a lovely position.
Monk - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/08

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Rebecca Ellis

after attemtping the lead and falling off.
Becky E - 2nd - 11/May/08 with Matt Maynard

Hannah Moulton - TR - 2008 with Gav

drysori - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Sep/07

Hidden - Sep/07

mje1398 - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/07 with John M

Pythonist - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/07 with Adam Carless

adam carless - 2nd - 03/Aug/07 with pythonist

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Tim Gould

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Chris FitzHugh

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/07

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Apr/06

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/05

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Oct/04

Hidden - 2002

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/00 with Roy Thomas

Billg - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/99 with Phil McAllistair

Ropeboy - Lead - 09/Aug/98

Hidden - Lead - 10/Oct/93

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jules Lane, DanChad, disrail, SuperLee1985, The Norris, hamishjoe, Steve Waters, Mynydd, b.hayley, climbingrick, mullermn

Total votes cast 102
hard E10 of 36
E10 of 36
easy E11 of 36
hard HVS18 of 36
HVS16 of 36
easy HVS1 of 36
hard VS0 of 36
VS0 of 36
easy VS0 of 36
hard 5b0 of 35
5b0 of 35
easy 5b0 of 35
hard 5a20 of 35
5a14 of 35
easy 5a1 of 35
hard 4c0 of 35
4c0 of 35
easy 4c0 of 35
3 Stars30 of 31
2 Stars1 of 31
1 Star0 of 31
0 Stars0 of 31
Bag of .....0 of 31
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP