Kafoozalem*** E3 6a
[abarro81, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Immaculate climbing on golden rock taking a thin crack up the middle of the central shield. Start at a small corner right of the main faultline of The Armchair.
Climb the small, technical corner to the bulges and hand traverse up right to beneath the crack-line. Enter the crack from the right with difficulty and make sustained moves up it until a weakness on the left runs up left to a grassy ledge. Climb the still tricky layback crack above the ledge to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Photo: abarro81 © Duncan Skelton
View all 9 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 150 logbooks, and on 26 wishlists.

Awesome route, my first 6a lead :) The initial hard moves felt quite bold, I did get gear but didn't really fancy actually testing it...
jonleighton - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/15

Felt well hard at the end of the day in 2013 - I gave up where the diagonal crack starts and ab'd for the gear, so stoked to find it ok today. Like everyone says - great climbing.
Ed Babs - Lead G/U - 01/Aug/15 with AlexD

Great moves! Balancy layback crack at the top quite fiendish lying in wait just when you think you've done all the hard work!
AlexD - 2nd - 01/Aug/15 with Ed

Andy Moles - 2nd - 01/Aug/15 with Ferdia

amazing. damn hard moves between plentiful rests. E4?
ferdia - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/15 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/15

tom s g - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/15 with Fred Graham

Feet slipped on crux, sliced chunk off finger, covered rest of route in blood.
pete johnson - Lead dog - 20/Jul/15 with Conor Shepherd

Techy move at top of groove, sustained until crux. Very greasy and didn't fancy hitting the slab when I ran out of power. Abbed for the gear in the rain.
benkelsey - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/15 with Shaun Humphreys

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2nd - 26/Jun/15 with Duncan Campbell

Tough in the sun! 3 hard sections which are all pretty well protected, though the start feels a bit necky? Potentially worth E4 but an absolutely classic bit of climbing. Effort to frank canning a freeing the first section on the FA.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/15 with Robbie

soph - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/15 with Michaela Tracy

It was rather greasy (the chalk was caking) and really pushed me. i was on the wall for ages (with a patient belayer) and really had to spend time working out several sections.
RosePearson - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/15 with Laurence Knowles

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/15

Second go with gear in. Classy.
Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 10/Jun/15 with Bryan Taylor, Hazel MacLean, Mark Chevasut

Lawrence lead, got beta from Mark. Possibly the best trad I've ever done??? So much fun, super pumpy, all three cruxes pushed me to my limits in different ways. ACE.
HazelMacLean - 2nd dog - 10/Jun/15 with UBMC

Mark Chevassut - 2nd dog - 10/Jun/15 with Laurence Everitt

Very nearly came a cropper.....
pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Ian Faulkner

Quite a tough one for the end of the day
ian d f - 2nd O/S - 23/May/15 with Michael P

Gregory - Lead - 16/May/15 with dom goodridge

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 2015

phil64 - 2015

Tough E3. Not sustained enough for E4. Climbs as well as it looks.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Colin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14

Hard all the way. E4
david morse - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Jimmy Markot, Gwen, KT, Andy Lole, helen, markalmack

on gay-morse's gear
markalmack - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/14 with gwen, james marjot

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 18/Aug/14

Just managed to squeeze in as the rain was coming in. Another superb pitch - good practice climbing fast as it was getting wetter by the min!
quiffhanger - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Peter Hill

Got up it clean just as it started raining.
theotherpetehill - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/14 with Ross McKerchar

Hidden - Lead - Aug/14

malx - Lead O/S - Aug/14

mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with sharpie

Fell off, couldn't get back on route. Came back down and Ali abbed down (several times) for gear :-(
tash - 2nd dnf - 26/Jul/14 with ali k

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14

Completely numbed the end of my finger in a black pocket at the start of the crack. Still numb two weeks later. Bastard!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Jemma Powell

What a great route! The climbing is as good as the line. Feels a lot steeper than it looks! The 3D section in the initial corner gave pause for thought but wasn't that hard with some jiggery pokery. Great rest at the base of the crack on the headwall (or should I say slab?!). With good footwork (for a change), getting onto the slab wasn't that hard. It's sustained up the crack for a while but nothing desperate. Pretty easy for the grade really, may be I just had a good day! In fact not entirely convinced that it's really 6a. Most people seem to have voted hard E3 or easy E4 - I beg to differ, Raven Wall the next day was harder! Done on the BMC SW Meet. Iain Peters and Frank Cannings watched me climb it and Frank took a few photos and pointed me in the right direction at the top when I wondered whether to keep following the black vein up the slab or take the easier ground to the left. That's pretty special!
Misha - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Sue

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Jul/14

a few showers as I was on it, but the rock was staying dry. Great climb
tim newton - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/14 with jon stewart

1 fall
Anusky - 2nd dog - 24/Apr/14

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Caroline

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

alice fuller - 2nd dog - Oct/13

Started off already boxed and expecting to fail - I wasn't disappointed! So done over unable to layback the final crack and had to aid it... Pleased to have read the crux moves correctly from the ground though. The bottom is no pushover either.
Justin T - Lead dog - 09/Jun/13 with John Mcshea

oakapple - Lead O/S - 13/May/13

Pieterjan De Roo - Lead O/S - 13/May/13

Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 11/May/13 with Benno Wagner, Rob Greenwood

andybirtwistle - 2013

What a spanking. Not as 'back on it' as i would like, it turns out! Ben led to the crux, fell off, and I had a go on his gear and couldn't do the crux, so he had another go and got well past the crux with a horrid runout, so opted to reverse right back down til he could safely fall rather than push on into the very wet section facing a nasty fall. Looked and felt E4 to me, for sure, though that may be my post-injury-weakness talking. Abbed for gear.
jacobjlloyd - Lead dnf - 27/Oct/12 with Ben Corbey

burto - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with hertha

spat me off the start of the crack, trying to follow guidebook suggestion of entering from the right. Ended up going in from the left. Then got sucked off route rightwards at the top! Bleah.
Dr Toph - Lead dog - 22/Aug/12 with Emily

Velo Orange - 2nd dnf - 22/Aug/12 with Toph

tuftynick - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12 with Aide Jebb

Pete Graham - Lead - Apr/12 with Rick Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

reached crux, placed gear and waited until too opumped to make the move-idiot!...probably good though as the rest was pretty tough.
CRiddiford - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/11 with Mike

knackered after my attempt just before sun went down.
CRiddiford - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead β - 23/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/11

JulesV - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

colesy - Lead β - 18/Jun/11

datoon - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with K

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 30/May/11 with rich cross

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/11

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 27/May/11 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 27/May/11

Previously led O/S 1996.
ellis - 2nd rpt - 26/Apr/11 with Tom Bridgeland

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11

Fell after entering crack then rested further up. Brought Nathan up for final layback crack. Made a mess of it but a quality route!
Jez - AltLd dog - 22/Apr/11 with NJSharp

oliver.ghill91 - Lead dnf - 2011

Marcus - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

pushed caroline on to this as her first E3, bad call commiting crux abover a slab leading to commiting laybacking moves with only one cam placement (of ther same size as the one just before the crux)
mwatson - 2011

fell off mantelling onto the top after having done all the hard climbing, I am such an idiot. Great climb though.
jacobjacob - Lead RP - 12/Jun/10

With Simon from France on BMC international meet. Several wet holds but not too bad. Top layback is a sting in the tale but all hard!
Bobby Gilbert - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Simon from France

Harald - Lead O/S - 12/May/10

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 10/May/10 with Becky McGovern

It was wet, which was pretty suprising since its been scorching for a week or so. The only dry part was the crux which incidentally felt like the easyest bit.
Rowansb - Lead dog - 11/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Richard Horn - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/09

I imposed myself on two extremely friendly locals who patiently belayed and even gave me a lunch! I weighted the gear before getting anywhere near the crux because I'm a tool with no sense of balance. Blind eye to that nonsense and it was on sight.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Tom

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09

Another pretty hopeless effort! Found getting on the slab hard and then ran out of steam on the top crack and had to resort to top rope. High in the grade for sure....though did manage to toprope it clean to get all my gear out!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 03/May/09 with Sam

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - 2009 with Kat Spinney

switch - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/08

bfreeman - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/08 with Tom Laurence

jfreeman - 2nd - 09/Jun/08 with Simon and Nick

wojt - Lead O/S - 2008

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07 with Ruth

climber sim - 2007

feilx - Lead β - 28/Aug/06 with Iain Hammond

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/06 with helen gibson

Dave Kerr - Lead - 02/Aug/06 with Jill Kerr

whispering nic - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/06 with The Wife

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/06

Kyuzo - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Hal Watts

The heaven's opened mid-crux!!
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Ash

hal - 2nd dnf - Jun/06 with Virgil Scott

feilx - 2nd - 13/May/06 with keith

Bern - 2006

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005

At the third time of asking.
pezzerrr - Lead RP - 21/Sep/04

Possibly the best I've done.
DubyaJamesDubya - Lead - 26/Aug/02

lx - Lead O/S - Jul/02

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 2002 with Shaun Derry

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/00

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2000 with Gary Thingy

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 2000

Tim M - 2000

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/99 with KM

It was soaking wet.
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/99 with Iain Fisher

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/97

Another stunner, beautiful climb
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 1997 with Wendy Sampson

phardman - 1997

Dave Musgrove - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/95 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/95 with Dad

mattnuttall - Lead - 24/Jul/94 with Alan Holden

Pumped out of my box then could not do the weird rockover thing
Nick Biven - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/93 with Rich Whitwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/92

Hidden - TR - 21/Aug/91

Chris Wright - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/91

keefe - 25/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 25/May/91 with keefe

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 26/May/90 with Andy Wingfield

Mark Kemball - Lead - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 12/Jul/89 with Keith Turton

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/87 with Elaine Owen

Billg - Lead - 09/Aug/87 with Keith Sharples

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/86

sadams - Lead - 29/Jul/86 with Kevin Edwards

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom McCabe, rurp, Graham Booth, ChrisBrooke, nickstephens, adam cooper*super*, monsteratt, willotheward, BWoodward, ian caton, lukea, pmot, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 110
hard E40 of 40
E42 of 40
easy E424 of 40
hard E310 of 40
E34 of 40
easy E30 of 40
hard E20 of 40
E20 of 40
easy E20 of 40
hard 6b0 of 37
6b0 of 37
easy 6b1 of 37
hard 6a1 of 37
6a34 of 37
easy 6a1 of 37
hard 5c0 of 37
5c0 of 37
easy 5c0 of 37
3 Stars32 of 33
2 Stars1 of 33
1 Star0 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP