Immaculate climbing on golden rock taking a thin crack up the middle of the central shield. Start at a small corner right of the main faultline of The Armchair.Climb the small, technical corner to the bulges and hand traverse up right to beneath the crack-line. Enter the crack from the right with difficulty and make sustained moves up it until a weakness on the left runs up left to a grassy ledge. Climb the still tricky layback crack above the ledge to the top. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Awesome route, my first 6a lead :) The initial hard moves felt quite bold, I did get gear but didn't really fancy actually testing it...
|Ed Babs||01/Aug||Lead G/U||
Felt well hard at the end of the day in 2013 - I gave up where the diagonal crack starts and ab'd for the gear, so stoked to find it ok today. Like everyone says - great climbing.
Great moves! Balancy layback crack at the top quite fiendish lying in wait just when you think you've done all the hard work!
amazing. damn hard moves between plentiful rests. E4?
|tom s g||27/Jul||Lead O/S||
|pete johnson||20/Jul||Lead dog||
Feet slipped on crux, sliced chunk off finger, covered rest of route in blood.
Techy move at top of groove, sustained until crux. Very greasy and didn't fancy hitting the slab when I ran out of power. Abbed for the gear in the rain.
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||26/Jun||2nd|
|Duncan Campbell||26/Jun||Lead O/S||
Tough in the sun! 3 hard sections which are all pretty well protected, though the start feels a bit necky? Potentially worth E4 but an absolutely classic bit of climbing. Effort to frank canning a freeing the first section on the FA.
It was rather greasy (the chalk was caking) and really pushed me. i was on the wall for ages (with a patient belayer) and really had to spend time working out several sections.
|Laurence Everitt||10/Jun||Lead RP||
Second go with gear in. Classy.
Bryan Taylor, Hazel MacLean, Mark Chevasut
Lawrence lead, got beta from Mark. Possibly the best trad I've ever done??? So much fun, super pumpy, all three cruxes pushed me to my limits in different ways. ACE.
|Mark Chevassut||10/Jun||2nd dog|
Very nearly came a cropper.....
|ian d f||23/May||2nd O/S||
Quite a tough one for the end of the day
|Ed morris||05/Oct/14||Lead O/S||
Tough E3. Not sustained enough for E4. Climbs as well as it looks.
|david morse||18/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Hard all the way. E4
on gay-morse's gear
gwen, james marjot
Just managed to squeeze in as the rain was coming in. Another superb pitch - good practice climbing fast as it was getting wetter by the min!
Got up it clean just as it started raining.
Fell off, couldn't get back on route. Came back down and Ali abbed down (several times) for gear :-(
|Alex Mason||21/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
Completely numbed the end of my finger in a black pocket at the start of the crack. Still numb two weeks later. Bastard!
What a great route! The climbing is as good as the line. Feels a lot steeper than it looks! The 3D section in the initial corner gave pause for thought but wasn't that hard with some jiggery pokery. Great rest at the base of the crack on the headwall (or should I say slab?!). With good footwork (for a change), getting onto the slab wasn't that hard. It's sustained up the crack for a while but nothing desperate. Pretty easy for the grade really, may be I just had a good day! In fact not entirely convinced that it's really 6a. Most people seem to have voted hard E3 or easy E4 - I beg to differ, Raven Wall the next day was harder! Done on the BMC SW Meet. Iain Peters and Frank Cannings watched me climb it and Frank took a few photos and pointed me in the right direction at the top when I wondered whether to keep following the black vein up the slab or take the easier ground to the left. That's pretty special!
|tim newton||27/Jun/14||Lead O/S||
a few showers as I was on it, but the rock was staying dry. Great climb
|Justin T||09/Jun/13||Lead dog||
Started off already boxed and expecting to fail - I wasn't disappointed! So done over unable to layback the final crack and had to aid it... Pleased to have read the crux moves correctly from the ground though. The bottom is no pushover either.
|Pieterjan De Roo||13/May/13||Lead O/S|
|Ed Booth||11/May/13||2nd rpt||
Benno Wagner, Rob Greenwood
What a spanking. Not as 'back on it' as i would like, it turns out! Ben led to the crux, fell off, and I had a go on his gear and couldn't do the crux, so he had another go and got well past the crux with a horrid runout, so opted to reverse right back down til he could safely fall rather than push on into the very wet section facing a nasty fall. Looked and felt E4 to me, for sure, though that may be my post-injury-weakness talking. Abbed for gear.
|Dr Toph||22/Aug/12||Lead dog||
spat me off the start of the crack, trying to follow guidebook suggestion of entering from the right. Ended up going in from the left. Then got sucked off route rightwards at the top! Bleah.
|Velo Orange||22/Aug/12||2nd dnf|
reached crux, placed gear and waited until too opumped to make the move-idiot!...probably good though as the rest was pretty tough.
knackered after my attempt just before sun went down.
|Adam Booth||27/May/11||2nd O/S|
|Ed Booth||27/May/11||Lead O/S|
Previously led O/S 1996.
Fell after entering crack then rested further up. Brought Nathan up for final layback crack. Made a mess of it but a quality route!
|Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor||??/2011||-|
pushed caroline on to this as her first E3, bad call commiting crux abover a slab leading to commiting laybacking moves with only one cam placement (of ther same size as the one just before the crux)
fell off mantelling onto the top after having done all the hard climbing, I am such an idiot. Great climb though.
|Bobby Gilbert||15/May/10||2nd O/S||
With Simon from France on BMC international meet. Several wet holds but not too bad. Top layback is a sting in the tale but all hard!
Simon from France
|Dave Turnbull, BMC||10/May/10||Lead rpt||
It was wet, which was pretty suprising since its been scorching for a week or so. The only dry part was the crux which incidentally felt like the easyest bit.
|Richard Horn||28/Aug/09||2nd O/S|
I imposed myself on two extremely friendly locals who patiently belayed and even gave me a lunch! I weighted the gear before getting anywhere near the crux because I'm a tool with no sense of balance. Blind eye to that nonsense and it was on sight.
Another pretty hopeless effort! Found getting on the slab hard and then ran out of steam on the top crack and had to resort to top rope. High in the grade for sure....though did manage to toprope it clean to get all my gear out!
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||??/2009||Lead O/S||
Simon and Nick
|Toby Dunn||08/Jun/07||Lead O/S||
|dan gibson||28/Aug/06||Lead O/S||
|whispering nic||30/Jul/06||Lead O/S||
|Rich Kirby||?/Jun/06||Lead O/S||
The heaven's opened mid-crux!!
At the third time of asking.
Possibly the best I've done.
|William Robertson||??/2002||Lead O/S||
|Ian Jones||??/2000||Lead O/S||
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2000||Lead|
|Steve Crowe||14/Jun/99||Lead O/S||
It was soaking wet.
Another stunner, beautiful climb
|Dave Musgrove||06/Jul/95||2nd O/S|
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||06/Jul/95||Lead O/S||
|Nick Biven||04/Apr/93||Lead dnf||
Pumped out of my box then could not do the weird rockover thing
|Chris Wright||21/Aug/91||Lead O/S|
|Mike Owen||18/Aug/87||Lead O/S||
|William Robertson||??/1987||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc