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Kafoozalem*** E3 6a

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[Dave Turnbull on Kafoozalem at the BMC International Meet, 3 kb]Immaculate climbing on golden rock taking a thin crack up the middle of the central shield. Start at a small corner right of the main faultline of The Armchair. 38m. Climb the small, technical corner to the bulges and hand traverse up right to beneath the crack-line. Enter the crack from the right with difficulty and make sustained moves up it until a weakness on the left runs up left to a grassy ledge. Climb the still tricky layback crack above the ledge to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50.

Photo: Dave Turnbull on Kafoozalem at the BMC International Meet © Kafoozalem
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 104 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Caroline

Started off already boxed and expecting to fail - I wasn't disappointed! So done over unable to layback the final crack and had to aid it... Pleased to have read the crux moves correctly from the ground though. The bottom is no pushover either.
Justin T - Lead dog - 09/Jun/13 with John Mcshea

oakapple - Lead O/S - 13/May/13

Pieterjan De Roo - Lead O/S - 13/May/13

Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 11/May/13 with Benno Wagner, Rob Greenwood

andybirtwistle - 2013

What a spanking. Not as 'back on it' as i would like, it turns out! Ben led to the crux, fell off, and I had a go on his gear and couldn't do the crux, so he had another go and got well past the crux with a horrid runout, so opted to reverse right back down til he could safely fall rather than push on into the very wet section facing a nasty fall. Looked and felt E4 to me, for sure, though that may be my post-injury-weakness talking. Abbed for gear.
jacobjlloyd - Lead dnf - 27/Oct/12 with Ben Corbey

burto - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with hertha

spat me off the start of the crack, trying to follow guidebook suggestion of entering from the right. Ended up going in from the left. Then got sucked off route rightwards at the top! Bleah.
Dr Toph - Lead dog - 22/Aug/12 with Emily

Velo Orange - 2nd dnf - 22/Aug/12 with Toph

tuftynick - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12 with Aide Jebb

Pete Graham - Lead - Apr/12 with Rick Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12

wojtt - Lead O/S - 2012

reached crux, placed gear and waited until too opumped to make the move-idiot!...probably good though as the rest was pretty tough.
CRiddiford - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/11 with Mike

knackered after my attempt just before sun went down.
CRiddiford - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/11 with Mike

Lead on Tom's gear with one added cam to protect the two 'crap' pieces of gear. Brilliant just keeps coming at you.
CJEFF - Lead β - 23/Aug/11 with Thomas Ramsdon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/11

JulesV - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

colesy - Lead β - 18/Jun/11

datoon - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with K

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 30/May/11 with rich cross

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/11

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 27/May/11 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 27/May/11

Previously led O/S 1996.
ellis - 2nd rpt - 26/Apr/11 with Tom Bridgeland

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11

Fell after entering crack then rested further up. Brought Nathan up for final layback crack. Made a mess of it but a quality route!
Jez - AltLd dog - 22/Apr/11 with NJSharp

olly12344 - Lead dnf - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

pushed caroline on to this as her first E3, bad call commiting crux abover a slab leading to commiting laybacking moves with only one cam placement (of ther same size as the one just before the crux)
mwatson - 2011

fell off mantelling onto the top after having done all the hard climbing, I am such an idiot. Great climb though.
jacobjacob - Lead RP - 12/Jun/10

With Simon from France on BMC international meet. Several wet holds but not too bad. Top layback is a sting in the tale but all hard!
Bobby Gilbert - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Simon from France

Harald - Lead O/S - 12/May/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/May/10

It was wet, which was pretty suprising since its been scorching for a week or so. The only dry part was the crux which incidentally felt like the easyest bit.
Rowansb - Lead dog - 11/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Richard Horn - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/09

I imposed myself on two extremely friendly locals who patiently belayed and even gave me a lunch! I weighted the gear before getting anywhere near the crux because I'm a tool with no sense of balance. Blind eye to that nonsense and it was on sight.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Tom

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09

Another pretty hopeless effort! Found getting on the slab hard and then ran out of steam on the top crack and had to resort to top rope. High in the grade for sure....though did manage to toprope it clean to get all my gear out!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 03/May/09 with Sam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

switch - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/08

bfreeman - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/08 with Tom Laurence

jfreeman - 2nd - 09/Jun/08 with Simon and Nick

wojt - Lead O/S - 2008

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07 with Ruth

climber sim - 2007

feilx - Lead β - 28/Aug/06 with Iain Hammond

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/06 with helen gibson

Dave Kerr - Lead - 02/Aug/06 with Jill Kerr

whispering nic - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/06 with The Wife

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/06

Kyuzo - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Hal Watts

The heaven's opened mid-crux!!
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Ash

hal - 2nd dnf - Jun/06 with Virgil Scott

feilx - 2nd - 13/May/06 with keith

Bern - 2006

Andy2 - 2005

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005

At the third time of asking.
pezzerrr - Lead RP - 21/Sep/04

Possibly the best I've done.
DubyaJamesDubya - Lead - 26/Aug/02

lx - Lead O/S - Jul/02

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 2002 with Shaun Derry

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/00

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2000 with Gary Thingy

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 2000

Tim M - 2000

It was soaking wet.
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/99 with Iain Fisher

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/97

Another stunner, beautiful climb
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 1997 with Wendy Sampson

phardman - 1997

Dave Musgrove - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/95 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/95 with Dad

mattnuttall - Lead - 24/Jul/94 with Alan Holden

Pumped out of my box then could not do the weird rockover thing
Nick Biven - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/93 with Rich Whitwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/92

Hidden - TR - 21/Aug/91

keefe - 25/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 25/May/91 with keefe

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 26/May/90 with Andy Wingfield

Mark Kemball - Lead - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 12/Jul/89 with Keith Turton

Mike Owen - 18/Aug/87 with Elaine Owen

Billg - 2nd - 09/Aug/87 with Keith Sharples

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/86

sadams - Lead - 29/Jul/86 with Kevin Edwards

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Ed morris, nickstephens, adam cooper*super*, monsteratt, willotheward, Hidden, BWoodward, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, ian caton, Hidden, lukea, pmot, a_radiohead_fan, Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 70
hard E40 of 26
E40 of 26
easy E417 of 26
hard E38 of 26
E31 of 26
easy E30 of 26
hard E20 of 26
E20 of 26
easy E20 of 26
hard 6b0 of 23
6b0 of 23
easy 6b0 of 23
hard 6a0 of 23
6a23 of 23
easy 6a0 of 23
hard 5c0 of 23
5c0 of 23
easy 5c0 of 23
3 Stars20 of 21
2 Stars1 of 21
1 Star0 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead59 of 104 (56.7%)
Followed19 of 104 (18.3%)
Toproped1 of 104 (1.0%)
Alt Leads3 of 104 (2.9%)
Unknown22 of 104 (21.2%)

'Climbed'41 of 104 (39.4%)
clean O/S42 of 104 (40.4%)
clean β3 of 104 (2.9%)
clean rpt4 of 104 (3.8%)
clean RP2 of 104 (1.9%)
dogged6 of 104 (5.8%)
dnf6 of 104 (5.8%)