Rockfax Description
Immaculate climbing on golden rock taking a thin crack up the middle of the central shield. Start at a small corner right of the main faultline of The Armchair.
Climb the small, technical corner to the bulges and hand traverse up right to beneath the crack-line. Enter the crack from the right with difficulty and make sustained moves up it until a weakness on the left runs up left to a grassy ledge. Climb the still tricky layback crack above the ledge to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Ramon Marin 29/Apr Lead O/S

Pumped as Popeye, my god what route. Not easy for E3

with viki harvey
harvie ??/2016 -
jonleighton 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Awesome route, my first 6a lead :) The initial hard moves felt quite bold, I did get gear but didn't really fancy actually testing it...

Ed Babs 01/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Felt well hard at the end of the day in 2013 - I gave up where the diagonal crack starts and ab'd for the gear, so stoked to find it ok today. Like everyone says - great climbing.

with AlexD
AlexD 01/Aug/15 2nd

Great moves! Balancy layback crack at the top quite fiendish lying in wait just when you think you've done all the hard work!

with Ed
Andy Moles 01/Aug/15 2nd
with Ferdia
ferdia 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

amazing. damn hard moves between plentiful rests. E4?

with Andy
Hidden ?/Aug/15 2nd O/S
tom s g 27/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Fred Graham
pete johnson 20/Jul/15 Lead dog

Feet slipped on crux, sliced chunk off finger, covered rest of route in blood.

benkelsey 07/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Techy move at top of groove, sustained until crux. Very greasy and didn't fancy hitting the slab when I ran out of power. Abbed for the gear in the rain.

with Shaun Humphreys
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 26/Jun/15 2nd
Duncan Campbell 26/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Tough in the sun! 3 hard sections which are all pretty well protected, though the start feels a bit necky? Potentially worth E4 but an absolutely classic bit of climbing. Effort to frank canning a freeing the first section on the FA. In addition to this Rich Tewson always regaled me with the tale of this, his hardest lead - a fine effort Rich!

with Robbie
soph 26/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Michaela Tracy
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/15 2nd
Laurence Everitt 10/Jun/15 Lead RP

Second go with gear in. Classy.

with Bryan Taylor, Hazel MacLean, Mark Chevasut
HazelMacLean 10/Jun/15 2nd dog

Lawrence lead, got beta from Mark. Possibly the best trad I've ever done??? So much fun, super pumpy, all three cruxes pushed me to my limits in different ways. ACE.

with UBMC
Mark Chevassut 10/Jun/15 2nd dog
pearson9596 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Very nearly came a cropper.....

ian d f 23/May/15 2nd O/S

Quite a tough one for the end of the day

Gregory 16/May/15 Lead
with dom goodridge
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Ed morris 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Tough E3. Not sustained enough for E4. Climbs as well as it looks.

with Colin
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
david morse 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hard all the way. E4

with Jimmy Markot, Gwen, KT, Andy Lole, helen, markalmack
markalmack 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S

on gay-morse's gear

with gwen, james marjot
Hidden 18/Aug/14 2nd dnf
quiffhanger 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Just managed to squeeze in as the rain was coming in. Another superb pitch - good practice climbing fast as it was getting wetter by the min!

theotherpetehill 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Got up it clean just as it started raining.

with Ross McKerchar
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead
malx ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mikeshewring 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with sharpie
tash 26/Jul/14 2nd dnf

Fell off, couldn't get back on route. Came back down and Ali abbed down (several times) for gear :-(

with ali k
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Completely numbed the end of my finger in a black pocket at the start of the crack. Still numb two weeks later. Bastard!

with Jemma Powell
Misha 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

What a great route! The climbing is as good as the line. Feels a lot steeper than it looks! The 3D section in the initial corner gave pause for thought but wasn't that hard with some jiggery pokery. Great rest at the base of the crack on the headwall (or should I say slab?!). With good footwork (for a change), getting onto the slab wasn't that hard. It's sustained up the crack for a while but nothing desperate. Pretty easy for the grade really, may be I just had a good day! In fact not entirely convinced that it's really 6a. Most people seem to have voted hard E3 or easy E4 - I beg to differ, Raven Wall the next day was harder! Done on the BMC SW Meet. Iain Peters and Frank Cannings watched me climb it and Frank took a few photos and pointed me in the right direction at the top when I wondered whether to keep following the black vein up the slab or take the easier ground to the left. That's pretty special!

with Sue
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd dog
tim newton 27/Jun/14 Lead O/S

a few showers as I was on it, but the rock was staying dry. Great climb

Anusky 24/Apr/14 2nd dog

1 fall

Bristoldave 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
alice fuller ?/Oct/13 2nd dog
Justin T 09/Jun/13 Lead dog

Started off already boxed and expecting to fail - I wasn't disappointed! So done over unable to layback the final crack and had to aid it... Pleased to have read the crux moves correctly from the ground though. The bottom is no pushover either.

oakapple 13/May/13 Lead O/S
Pieterjan De Roo 13/May/13 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 11/May/13 2nd rpt
with Benno Wagner, Rob Greenwood
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 11/May/13 2nd
jacobjlloyd 27/Oct/12 Lead dnf

What a spanking. Not as 'back on it' as i would like, it turns out! Ben led to the crux, fell off, and I had a go on his gear and couldn't do the crux, so he had another go and got well past the crux with a horrid runout, so opted to reverse right back down til he could safely fall rather than push on into the very wet section facing a nasty fall. Looked and felt E4 to me, for sure, though that may be my post-injury-weakness talking. Abbed for gear.

nimajneb 27/Oct/12 Lead dnf
burto 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
Dr Toph 22/Aug/12 Lead dog

spat me off the start of the crack, trying to follow guidebook suggestion of entering from the right. Ended up going in from the left. Then got sucked off route rightwards at the top! Bleah.

with Emily
Velo Orange 22/Aug/12 2nd dnf
with Toph
tuftynick 04/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Aide Jebb
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 Lead
with Rick Graham
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 01/Sep/11 Lead dnf

reached crux, placed gear and waited until too opumped to make the move-idiot!...probably good though as the rest was pretty tough.

with Mike
CRiddiford 01/Sep/11 2nd dog

knackered after my attempt just before sun went down.

with Mike
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead β
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd
JulesV 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
colesy 18/Jun/11 Lead β
datoon 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with K
tuftynick 30/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/11 2nd
Adam Booth 27/May/11 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 27/May/11 Lead O/S
ellis 26/Apr/11 2nd rpt

Previously led O/S 1996.

with Tom Bridgeland
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Jez 22/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Fell after entering crack then rested further up. Brought Nathan up for final layback crack. Made a mess of it but a quality route!

with NJSharp
oliver.ghill91 ??/2011 Lead dnf
Marcus ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -

pushed caroline on to this as her first E3, bad call commiting crux abover a slab leading to commiting laybacking moves with only one cam placement (of ther same size as the one just before the crux)

jacobjacob 12/Jun/10 Lead RP

fell off mantelling onto the top after having done all the hard climbing, I am such an idiot. Great climb though.

Bobby Gilbert 15/May/10 2nd O/S

With Simon from France on BMC international meet. Several wet holds but not too bad. Top layback is a sting in the tale but all hard!

with Simon from France
Harald 12/May/10 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 10/May/10 Lead rpt
with Becky McGovern
Rowansb 11/Apr/10 Lead dog

It was wet, which was pretty suprising since its been scorching for a week or so. The only dry part was the crux which incidentally felt like the easyest bit.

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Richard Horn 28/Aug/09 2nd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S

I imposed myself on two extremely friendly locals who patiently belayed and even gave me a lunch! I weighted the gear before getting anywhere near the crux because I'm a tool with no sense of balance. Blind eye to that nonsense and it was on sight.

with Tom
Marti999 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Chad123 03/May/09 AltLd dog

Another pretty hopeless effort! Found getting on the slab hard and then ran out of steam on the top crack and had to resort to top rope. High in the grade for sure....though did manage to toprope it clean to get all my gear out!

with Sam
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Kat Spinney
switch 17/Jul/08 Lead O/S
bfreeman 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Laurence
jfreeman 09/Jun/08 2nd
with Simon and Nick
wojt ??/2008 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
climber sim ??/2007 -
feilx 28/Aug/06 Lead β
with Iain Hammond
Hidden 28/Aug/06 2nd O/S
dan gibson 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Dave Kerr 02/Aug/06 Lead
with Jill Kerr
whispering nic 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with The Wife
Hidden 20/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/06 Lead
Kyuzo ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Hal Watts
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S

The heaven's opened mid-crux!!

with Ash
hal ?/Jun/06 2nd dnf
with Virgil Scott
feilx 13/May/06 2nd
with keith
Bern ??/2006 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
pezzerrr 21/Sep/04 Lead RP

At the third time of asking.

DubyaJamesDubya 26/Aug/02 Lead

Possibly the best I've done.

lx ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S


William Robertson ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Shaun Derry
jfletcher 27/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Gary Thingy
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 -
Steve Crowe 14/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with KM
goi.ashmore 13/Jun/99 Lead O/S

It was soaking wet.

with Iain Fisher
Derek Ryden ??/1998 Lead dog
with Reinhild
Hidden 19/Apr/97 2nd
ecowaller ??/1997 Lead O/S

Another stunner, beautiful climb

with Wendy Sampson
phardman ??/1997 -
lost.arrow 11/May/96 2nd
Dave Musgrove 06/Jul/95 2nd O/S
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Jul/95 Lead O/S


with Dad
mattnuttall 24/Jul/94 Lead
with Alan Holden
Nick Biven 04/Apr/93 Lead dnf

Pumped out of my box then could not do the weird rockover thing

with Rich Whitwell
Hidden 25/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/91 TR
Chris Wright 21/Aug/91 Lead O/S
keefe 25/May/91 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 25/May/91 -
with keefe
charlesmfrench 26/May/90 2nd O/S
with Andy Wingfield
Mark Kemball ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Bruce Kerr 12/Jul/89 Lead
with Keith Turton
Mike Owen 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Billg 09/Aug/87 Lead
with Keith Sharples
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 04/Oct/86 Lead O/S
sadams 29/Jul/86 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
andybirtwistle 12/Aug/85 2nd
with Andy Moss
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
steve L 04/Apr/81 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 40
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set