UKC Logbook - 'Paragon'

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Cornwall > Bosigran >

Paragon

HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Broadstairs

Paradise >>

A popular, intricate and sustained climb that visits some of the trickier sections of the crag bypassed by the well-trodden VSs. Start below a series of narrow corners just left of a huge flake at the base of the wall.. 1) 5a, 26m. Move up cracks to a ledge and make a committing move up right into another small corner. Climb this, and its continuation to a belay at the junction with the red band of rock that crosses the face.. 2) 4c, 23m. Traverse right for around 8m to a steep groove. Climb the groove past a black stained hole and an overlap just above to a flake that leads left under an overhang to a slabby bay and a belay at its left-hand side.. 3) 5a, 12m. Move back right to the bottom of a wide, rounded flake-crack. Climb the crack strenuously to where it eases and move right to a belay below a leaning corner.. 4) 5a, 15m. Climb the leaning corner which is hard but well-protected, to a welcome jug on the left. The top is not far above. © ROCKFAX
A lovely route following a series of corners and cracks up the guts of the crag. Start to the left of a hugh flake leaning against the bottom of the crag at an obvious line of cracks and corners to a belay level with the rake. Pitch 2 traverse right here to the shallow groove, up this via a couple of pulls to some welcome jugs. From here a flake leads back leftwards to a belay above the last. The third pitch climbs the obvious rounded crack to the right of the belay and the final pitch follows the short corner to the right having a sting in the tail!

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Paragon (HVS 5a) pitch two © Kafoozalem
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 210 logbooks, and on 25 wishlists.

First pitch then finished up nameless. Did it all in two pitches.
DaveFidler - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Maurice

coverdale - AltLd O/S - 17/May/13 with Craig Harwood

Ended up doing all 4 pitches - great route
evhall - Lead O/S - 10/May/13 with colin, Mike D

mikeydee135 - 2nd O/S - 10/May/13 with Evan Hall, Colin Knowles

Lead P2 and P4 - definitely felt 'out there', but loved it :)
SurferStan - AltLd - 12/Apr/13 with Nick Donahue

nickdonohue - AltLd - Apr/13 with Chris Stanyon

Led p1 & 3
cem - AltLd rpt - 30/Mar/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kirill - AltLd dog - 30/Mar/13 with Charles Moreton

first pitch than finished over Nameless to avoid imminent rain
uncontrollable - AltLd - 09/Mar/13 with Daj

Hidden - 2013

adie84 - 2013

Nice, but struggled with route finding
fraserbarrett - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/12

with Ben too. was wet.
gowla - AltLd rpt - 06/Oct/12 with Alex Burns

first 2 pitches done but route finding,bad and unsure on hard crack on third pitch made us finish on nameless il try again sometime soon!!
dready - AltLd dnf - 21/Sep/12 with surferstan

KittyG - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/12 with Chris

A hard, but very enjoyable climb! Crux slab of P1 is quite bold - very little in the way of gear and you are looking at a fall onto the ledge below. The layback crack on P3 is very pleasant and airy. This crack on P4 is tricky - requires a bit of thought! You'll be glad when you latch the (slightly hidden) jug! Voted 3 stars for this one - I think it deserves it.
BelayBunney - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Catherine

P2 & 4. All felt pretty much like 5a to me. Lovely exposure on P2
Batt - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Rachel B

Last 2 pitches following on from Autumn Flakes.
NancyJones - 2nd - 23/Aug/12 with Gareth

Pitch 3 and Pitch 4 coming in from Autumn Flakes
gg4419 - Lead rpt - Aug/12

wilkinscl - Aug/12

1906johns - Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jul/12

jcook1980 - AltLd - 08/Jul/12 with Leo

Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/12 with Chris Hindley

First two pitches only. Then heavy rain forced us to Nameless.
iceaxejuggler - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Adil

Finished by doing the last pitch of Nameless instead.
Adil - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/12

me p1 and p3,john p2 and mike p4.fantastic route with a very committing move at 3rd height on p1.pitch 3 has the most amazing flake to layback!awesome route!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/12 with mike walton, john ripley

Mr Powly - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Ian B, Chris Wall

burto - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with chris wall, tom powell

difficult first pitch, excellent second pitch, finished directly off 2nd stance up easy escape instead of doing wide crack which starts 20ft right of belay, very poorly positioned if you manage to fall off it.
Stewart Armstrong - AltLd dnf - 03/Jun/12 with Steve Westwood

Andyh83 - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Jim

All the trickier moves are satisfying, well-protected and followed by good holds on which to rest and feel happy.
DavidMetcalf - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12 with Frances Bensley

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Harry Martin

Frances Bensley - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Jon brown

Awesome memorable climb!
JonBrown - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Sophie Nunn

Brilliant sustained climbing, 3 stars. 4th pitch is hard though.
arandall - Lead O/S - 29/Feb/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd - 29/Feb/12 with arandall

Pete Graham - AltLd - 27/Feb/12 with Ben Silvestre

Davebryant - AltLd - 25/Feb/12 with Sam Hann

wojtt - Lead O/S - 2012

P1&2, finished up Nameless as getting rather dark!
Justin T - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Crispin

Finished up Nameless - poor route finding skillz!
Mowglee - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Ali

hardest HVS ive done, challenging but satisfing
kat-lyle - 2nd - 25/Sep/11 with fred

Fred_Richard - Lead - 24/Sep/11 with Kat

Country_Boy - 2nd dog - 10/Sep/11 with Stu Bradbury

Jim Malo - 2nd - 09/Sep/11 with Stu

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Mike

2nd and 4th pitches. Great route.
CJEFF - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with John Williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/11

lead the lot, great route
cornishmackem - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with zach lawlor

Dizz - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Richard S

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/11

highfivekrissy - 2nd - 31/May/11 with Pete Myers

Good to do this 4 years after my first attempt
middlemarker - AltLd - 28/May/11 with Joris

Dan for 1st and 3rd pitches, me 2nd and 4th
Joris.Roulleau - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11 with Dan Metcalfe

mat + i led it all. a fine route.
peter myers - AltLd - May/11 with Krissy Humble, Matthew Etheridge

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/11

Tim 1st / me 2nd / Roger 3rd & 4th. On the 3rd pitch, we went below the rounded flakes and ended onto suicide wall crux pitch. Therefore, Roger opened a new variation to the route "Paragon of suicide E1 5c" (fantastic link between two routes via scary ledge 5c).
sergio46 - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with roger benton, Tim Clark

Pitches 1 and 3
PanzerHanzler - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Steve Culverhouse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/11

Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 25/Apr/11 with Andy Hansler

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/10

I lead the second pitch. It is an awesome pitch, but it took me over an hour to get my head into starting the laybacking to the giant flake. The moves felt so exposed even though the gear was fantastic. Needless to say my belayers were very cold!
Legs - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Macca

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10

edpd1b - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/10 with Kelly Hillyer

crag_monster - AltLd - 02/Sep/10 with murphydave

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/10

sputnik - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Mrs Z

c00kie - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with Gavin

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Aug/10

Ended up on Suicide wall's last pitch
Brown - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/10 with Ben Lepesant

Me Pitch 2, Mark Pitch 1,3 and 4.
cheeky - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Mark Philipson

lead pitches1,3,4. all top quality and great pro. fell at start of last pitch, but doubt I could do clean as fist jam and placing cam required. fantastic route though, every pitch quality.
mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Matt Payne

Em66 - AltLd - 17/Jun/10 with Matt

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Sarah Joyce

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/10

Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 10/May/10 with Mick Walsh

Led all pitches. Loved it. Really good exposed climbing, though ultimately escapable from the top of 1st and 2nd pitches. Pitch 2 is incredible, jsut be sure to look down when you get up to the big flake as the exposure is something else. The move on the top pitch is quite 3D but not too hard once you realise what to do.
andybenham - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Ben

simonp - AltLd - May/10 with Lucy Ham

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/10

Led p 2 & 4
cem - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/10 with Graham Dolman

JerryD - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

katyvose1 - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2010

A little more tricky that I had expected although missing a few holds and jamming the rope whilst combining the second and third pitches probably didn't help :-)
nickstephens - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/09 with Nancy Jones

Hidden - AltLd β - 10/Oct/09

mbradberry2008 - AltLd dnf - 26/Sep/09 with Gareth Greeves

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/09

gg4419 - AltLd O/S - Sep/09

Swotson - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Tony Madden

JPGR - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Steve Ahern

petegruf - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with capn bob

Escaped pitch 4 due to rain. A pretty scary route, P1 and P3... neither are easy and P4 looked pretty hard too!
Jon_Warner - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Tom

lukehunt - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/09

nic42 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Jack

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/09

Bern - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 with Andy Mos

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 24/May/09

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with scott and annabell

Hidden - 2nd β - 10/Apr/09

Led second and fourth pitches.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Chalky Digits

dave657 - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/08 with paul b

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Dave Ripley

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/08 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/08

Marti999 - AltLd rpt - 10/Jul/08 with Mark Glaister

started on autumn and went totally off route onto Paragon. So did the last two pitches of Paragon including the crux pitch
givemetea - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Hannah Heywood

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/08

Led 1st and 3rd pitch
adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Oliver Mentz

31770 - AltLd - 28/Jun/08 with adamscottthomas

Led 3rd pitch
cornishben - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/08 with barnaby carver

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 13/Jun/08 with Quiet Ian

BicepAndrews - Lead - 08/Jun/08 with Tom Dudley

on start of last pitch used rope assistance to get over crux
tdudley - 2nd dog - 08/Jun/08 with James Andrews

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/May/08

I led first and third pitches
Kafoozalem - AltLd - 06/May/08 with Nolan

jonka - AltLd - May/08 with sean

Lev - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Luke Hodson

lovely 2nd pitch
lukehodson - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Lev

Hidden - 2008

Just my sort of HVS too.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/07 with Clare

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jul/07

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/07 with Kate

jfreeman - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with Steve Rigler

Sidekick - Lead O/S - Jun/07

I led pitch 1 - very nice, just my sort of HVS. Dom led 2 & 3, Masa 4. Nice varied climb with good moves. 2 Stars.
r@bag - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Masa Sakano & Dom Sellars

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Masa and Laurence

I lead pitch 2.
lyneux - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Chris Glasson

Lead 2nd & aided the last pitch. 5a?
featuresforfeet - AltLd dog - 07/Apr/07 with Ian R

maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/07 with jez

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - 2007

riddle - 2007 with Ollie

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Tim

rubben - 2nd O/S - 2007

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 2007 with Beckholland

Jane lead the first two pitches as one (I think these are fantastic, and worth 3-stars in their own right) and I lead the last two pitches in one, which is not recommended unless you're very confident as there are a few knarly last moves.
Neil Ireson - AltLd - 01/Sep/06 with Jane

A difficult climb, lobbed off on the second. Had to finish vis another route ~VS as there were two idiots farting around above us. Classic quote "lots of HS leaders have died on that pitch". MOst stupid thing I have ever heard another climber say.
Mark_RMC - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/06 with Rich Laid

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/06

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 28/May/06 with Chris Reid

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/06

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 21/Feb/06 with Nic Dill, Stu Bradbury

wojt - Lead - 2006

jade Edwards Leaney - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/05 with vaughan

Great route
timharrison - AltLd O/S - Sep/05 with Jo Willet

ewen - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

shoulders - Lead - 11/Aug/05 with dai

Andy2 - 2005

John Kettle - AltLd - 2005