Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
The blocky arete on the right edge of the wall. Make difficult moves past the first bolt to reach the second, then a series of pulls on big holds to the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
About 10m to the right of The Hand of Morlock there is a blocky looking arete. Follow the line of two bolts to a two bolt lower off. Difficult moves past the first bolt enables one to reach the second bolt, then a series of pulls on big holds will allow one to reach the lower off.
Tony Hughes, Greg Oldridge 05/Sep/2007.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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resurrection/erection
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Llechog (Cwm Clogwyn))