Rockfax Description
Fine climbing that has a teasing crux. Start as for Up the Junction, then break right over a bulge before tackling the slim groove. © Rockfax

Tim Dunsby 1993

Ticklists: Portland.

adrianj 24/Aug Lead dog
Hidden 31/Jul 2nd dog
guy127917 31/Jul Lead O/S
with Jen
Dandan82 10/Jul Lead dog

Indecipherable crux move

harty92 09/Jul Lead dog
td72 09/Jul Lead O/S

one move wonder route, crux made me think for a second but it's not to hard once you work it out.

with katie93
Hidden 09/Jul Lead dog
bryan61 09/Jul Lead RP
with jp3
Fraser hill-casey 04/Jun Lead
with james m
sideburnz 02/May TR dnf
with HannahT, Martin
HannahT 02/May TR RP I found this route quite easy apart from the crux. At the crux I found a small crimp off to the side which made it slightly easier to get past.

with Martin
Hidden 01/May Lead RP
ThomasB 30/Apr Lead O/S
simonhammond1966 28/Apr Lead

Had to think about the crux move for a bit but finally worked it out.

with Paul Hurrell
Nick Russell 18/Apr Lead O/S

Comments on here suggest I was missing something but the crux move on this has no place on a 6b, even if the rest is easier.

tsyrett 28/Mar Lead RP

Tough crux move to on sight but a nice little problem. The upper section is also a treat after the crux.

hfotheri 26/Mar Lead
with arjun
Hidden 25/Mar Lead dnf
Luke Kirby 19/Mar TR

Where's the hidden hold??

Hidden ??/2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 Lead O/S
tobydunford 22/Nov/15 Lead rpt
with Oli
climbingrev 01/Sep/15 Lead RP

Brilliant! Just one 6b move really, but what a brilliant move, in just the right place 2/3rds of the way up the crag. Tricky to read; but very satisfying. Rewarded at the top by some great flowstone jugs!

simonsnake77 17/Jun/15 Lead dog

Tricky mid section otherwise fairly easy 6b

garda006 08/Jun/15 Lead dog

nice route with a horrible layback on a crap sloper

MrJoshua 08/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Andy Gardiner
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead dnf
afrosam 24/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Apr/15 Lead dog
robajob 14/Mar/15 Lead RP
with Kt
Philoosh 07/Mar/15 Lead dog
BDC 02/Jan/15 Lead
with Jay
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 08/Dec/14 Lead β

Tough for the onsight!

Pete Scott 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
nath_casper 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Montse Shelbourne 01/Nov/14 Lead β
with Nathan
Hidden 19/Oct/14 2nd rpt
martin one 19/Oct/14 TR dog
with Markus
RKirke 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Phil
Hidden 28/Aug/14 -
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead dog
rd20 23/Mar/14 Lead dnf
with Patrick
Hidden 17/Mar/14 Lead dog
Wildstyle 16/Feb/14 TR
madguernseyboy 16/Feb/14 Lead dnf
Trippinjester 28/Dec/13 TR dog
drewish 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S
dereke12000 24/Nov/13 Lead RP

At last! Easier when you know how...

with Rich
dereke12000 16/Nov/13 TR

Missed the hidden hold so blew the onsight, top-roped clean after it was pointed out

Hidden 22/Sep/13 TR dog
jwpil 22/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Ben
rustyfishhook 18/May/13 TR dnf
Trippinjester 18/May/13 TR dog
with Jennie Fowler, Jamie Knight
minstrel nips,sean 18/May/13 TR β

nice route verry crimpie

UnkArl 31/Mar/13 Lead dog

Got suckered into trying Tim's drop-knee beta after watching him and Stef try it - didn't work for me and I fell off. Faffed about a little bit before spotting a high step and layback to the good hold - felt reasonably straightforward then. Bit of a one-move wonder but a good route anyway. The crux move is probably a tad harder than any move on Up The Junction, but nowhere near as sustained.

with Stef, Tim
Binder 17/Feb/13 2nd dog
with Ian L, JT, Naomi B, Harri K
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead dog
Harri777 17/Feb/13 TR
with Ian Lau
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
AlexD 06/Feb/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Feb/13 Lead O/S
joshchalke 05/Jan/13 Lead dnf
with bradfry
The Ivanator 18/Nov/12 TR

Steady except the crux which is nails for the grade, had to rest.

with Ric, Alan
bonelessivar 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Alan
Sami Mandeel 15/Nov/12 Lead RP
el_monty 15/Nov/12 Lead RP
with Sami
Hidden 10/Nov/12 Lead RP
richy85 29/Sep/12 TR dog

The crux was much much harder than 6b. I think someone shed a vital hold on it.

with Paul
Jonnie Watkins 14/Sep/12 Lead
Trippinjester 09/Sep/12 TR dog
with polly, paul southgate
mOg#1 09/Sep/12 TR
popov86 17/Jul/12 Lead
Sami Mandeel 05/Jul/12 Lead dog

Don't think I found the hidden hold as the sequence I ended up using was certainly not 6b. Onsight thwarted!

with Si
Hidden 13/May/12 2nd dog
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead RP
Viks 08/Apr/12 2nd dog
with Paul
3 Names 17/Mar/12 Lead rpt
3 Names 25/Feb/12 Lead dog
with Nick
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead β
Hidden 05/Feb/12 TR rpt
Monkey_Alan 07/Jan/12 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead RP
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead
tommytom ??/2012 -
HAJ Francis ??/2012 Lead O/S
Alex More 25/Sep/11 Lead
with Joel
Linc 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 15/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with tomski
Jonathan Emett 13/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with mike pinney
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 26/Aug/10 Lead RP

4th attempt. foothold came off on 3rd attempt, after I had done the crux. Gah!

Steve Woollard 26/Aug/10 2nd
tobydunford 24/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Jon Emmett
Jonathan Emett 24/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Emma-Louise Anderson 22/May/10 Lead dog

What a big move... even from beneath the clip!

Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
mattparratt 06/Apr/10 TR dog

Grrrrrr (II)

Ed Babs 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Mar/10 Lead dog
benwhit 31/Jan/10 Lead
Pete Sanger 31/Jan/10 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Jan/10 Lead O/S
brian watson 24/Jan/10 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jan/10 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jan/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
nealh ??/2010 -
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Richard Horn 06/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 10/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead RP
Luke d 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
AlexD 31/May/09 Lead RP

hidden hold will thwart many an onsight...

Hidden 15/Apr/09 Lead
MarkRyder 04/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Rich
jl 15/Mar/09 Lead dog
with Penny
trev_f 13/Mar/09 Lead β
with Rob
Rob Kennard ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
vertigo 11/Nov/08 Lead β
Marti999 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Mick Cooke
steve taylor 03/May/08 Lead RP
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead
Nigel Coe 02/Nov/91 2nd

FA, trad

with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
Hidden 02/Nov/91 Lead
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Votes cast 39
Votes cast 32
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