South Yorkshire > Wharncliffe Crags >
 
Grammarian's Progress** VS 4b

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Grammarianís Direct >>
14m. Starting at the through-tunnel climb the arete on its left before pulling round onto the front face. A poorly protected mantelshelf reaches better holds, then traverse right to a wide crack to finish. High in the grade, and once graded VD! © ROCKFAX
FA. R.A.Brown 1944

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 53 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/14

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 09/May/14 with Rob Middleton

colin milton - 2nd - 09/Apr/14 with shaun l

dangmtb - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with richnorgate

Oceanic - 02/Sep/12

Matt Cooke - 2nd β - 01/Sep/12 with Rosh

Tough for VS; requires some bold balancing moves. Because the gear is so slight and there is ground fall potential I'd give it HVS. I've certainly done lots of HVS' which have felt much safer and easier. Not a good lead for a VS novice.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with David Shelmerdine

David Shelmerdine - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Gavin Peach

kenneM - Lead - Apr/12 with Davey Luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11

Easier than it first appears but harder than 4b
thedatastream - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/11

Initial moves are pretty damn bold for VS.
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with JP

adi bryant - Solo - 26/Jun/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Mark D

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/11

MeMeMe - 2nd - 04/Sep/10 with Tim

OK once you've got the knee bar. Unprotected 4b like Sunset Slab: HVS???
JohnHutch - TR - 04/Sep/10 with L

Might as well have done the direct start at HVS as the VS variant has no gear till higher up. Not really suitable for someone's first VS.
tigertim - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Mike McEwen

nick ferro - 24/Apr/10

Much easier if you just man up and mantle the ledge on the left instead of pansying about with the right hand side of the arete. Scary with the dodgy gear though!
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/10 with crossdressingrodney

The mantleshelf can be avoided by a horribly wobbly and delicate move round the right of the arete. The gear is rubbish.
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10 with victim of mathematics

JulesV - Solo O/S - 28/Mar/10

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09

very serious route with poor gear till above the crux, still bold HVS in my book, being quite green didn't help either. This did give a good buzz on lead on a nice route.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Jools

djp1 - 2nd - 03/Jul/08 with Dom

Hidden - Lead - 17/Feb/08

Bailed!? Nd to go back...
stevo smith - Lead dnf - 07/Aug/07 with Pam

Used to be VDiff - bloody hell!
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 12/Oct/05 with Colin Binks

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Jul/04

PenJD - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/03 with Tony Heron

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 27/Jul/02 with Laurie Smith

Hidden - Solo - 06/Apr/02

called for top rope on the crux :(
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 2002 with Graeme

after failing on lead yet again
Simon Caldwell - TR rpt - 2002 with Carmen

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2002

Tim W - Lead - 29/Jul/01

tlr - Solo - 2000

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/98 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/98 with mik

Dave led.
Iain Thow - 2nd - 10/May/98 with Doug, Dave Walch

borderline - TR O/S - 1996 with James S

Roget - Solo O/S - 14/May/95 with jon

babymoac - 1995 with graham d

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Jul/93

leathers - 1990

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 01/Jul/87

Soled when graded VDiff, harrowing
Budge - Solo O/S - 1987

Pete Pozman - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/86

malc - Solo - 02/Jun/84

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 13/Feb/82

Tom V - 1980

mikej - Solo - 27/Sep/70 with E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jeffsheard, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 55
hard HVS0 of 19
HVS1 of 19
easy HVS7 of 19
hard VS8 of 19
VS2 of 19
easy VS1 of 19
hard HS0 of 19
HS0 of 19
easy HS0 of 19
hard 4c0 of 19
4c0 of 19
easy 4c12 of 19
hard 4b5 of 19
4b2 of 19
easy 4b0 of 19
hard 4a0 of 19
4a0 of 19
easy 4a0 of 19
3 Stars1 of 17
2 Stars13 of 17
1 Star3 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

Soloed14 of 53 (26.4%)
Lead20 of 53 (37.7%)
Followed11 of 53 (20.8%)
Toproped3 of 53 (5.7%)
Unknown5 of 53 (9.4%)

'Climbed'21 of 53 (39.6%)
clean O/S29 of 53 (54.7%)
clean β1 of 53 (1.9%)
clean rpt1 of 53 (1.9%)
dnf1 of 53 (1.9%)