Lancaster Flyby** E1 5b
[Softest of the soft touch grit extremes?, 2 kb]14m. Pleasant climbing and low in the grade. Begin just right of the arete and climb the wall to a deep horizontal break (good gear). A difficult pull on small holds reaches another break then continue trending rightwards up the interesting wall, with one last tricky move where things steepen. © ROCKFAX
FA. Chris Craggs 1996

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Photo: Softest of the soft touch grit extremes? © Owen W-G

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 169 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/14

Derek Furze - Lead - 05/Sep/14 with Paul Wheeler

Matt Harmon - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Alex McCann

Quite soft for E1, though would be worth three stars if some of the holds didn't feel as snappy. Nice moves.
Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 05/Sep/14

amccann - Solo O/S - 05/Sep/14

Luke Jones - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/14 with Will, Graham

Running_Board - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14

fatbuoybazza - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/14 with AnnB, TimG

alex thackway - TR O/S - 04/Aug/14 with Ian Bunton

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Debbie

Great holds & gear - what more could you ask for? Very soft for E1!
Gudge - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/14 with Neil Davies

nedly - 2nd - 17/Jul/14 with Chris Gudgeon

Everyone else had left the crag due to a sudden midge swarm. I wanted to have a first attempt at an E1 though, this was a mistake. It isn't ideal for a climber to be pushing their grade whilst both they, and their belayer are swatting midges. Took a fall on the first crux. Finished the rest of the climb using a hold on the arete for the 1st crux, and veering off to the left.
OliverRoss - Lead dog - 21/Jun/14 with Alkis

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/14

simon1965 - 2nd - 11/Jun/14 with Mark Westerman

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/14

Neat
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Colin Struthers

jogh - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Flic, Steve, Pete

pete_naylor - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14 with James

nick ferro - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Oli Birkill

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

thetradlad - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Harry Thorpe

Harry Thorpe - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Jake Lodge

C May - 2nd - Apr/14 with Tim

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/13

chrisbussell - 2nd - 09/Jul/13 with Tim O'Neill

poeter210 - 2nd dog - 06/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/13

kim.mulji - Lead dog - 06/Jul/13 with Nick

apw - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Eric

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/13

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

lead up to crux struggled to work out move down climbed give deacon a go then pulled ropes and lead on pre placed gear
the power - Lead β - 29/Jun/13 with deacon

claregardiner - 2nd - 25/Jun/13

Straightforward enough!
Jackwd - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Nigel Berry

mikealexpayne - Lead - 09/Jun/13

Lovely, enjoyable as a HVS. Used arete after some debate from description at crag.
ColinD - Lead - 09/Jun/13 with Keith

brownie mike - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

keith leonard - 2nd - Jun/13

NickJH - Lead dnf - Apr/13 with Andy Cross

Ahab - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Lovely climb. Certainly easy in the grade, although having said I foolishly attempted the same reachy mid move through the thin holds to the arete like Matt & Charlie forgetting they have at least 1 foot on me height wise and came off. Just careless on my part. Great climb. Great rock. Fucking long walk in on a hot morning.
jessyb - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Charlie

Mowglee - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Tom Nichols

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Alan

Simon_Letman - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with olly

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Jul/12

gazfellows - Lead - 22/Jul/12 with Lara, Miquel, Anna, Billy

madasten - 2nd - 22/Jul/12 with Gaz

With a brief rest cos I was pumped by the time I got to the crimpy move. As with all my leads at the top of my grade, a good dose of just getting on with it would have probably done the trick. Although I want it to be E1, you're never far from a decent rest and bomber cams, so HVS seems fair.
treg - Lead dog - 25/Jun/12 with Rachel

First E1 (Three Pebble Slab excepting) and yes a bit soft but good to get on the board. Nice route with good holds.
Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Andrew Marshall

ushi - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Steven, Andy Marshall

max_chan - Lead rpt - 26/May/12 with Phil PCC

claregardiner - Lead - 26/May/12

richyg - Lead - 26/May/12

Compo - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Gareth

Read it wrong in trying to go directly to the break from the crimps, should of used the arete. Alright when you know how!
markfairbank - Lead dog - 24/Mar/12 with Ian Moore

cem - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Rob Truckle

PAJames - 2012

very nice
cobweb - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with martyn hopson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

Height is an issue, and finger strength, too damn short! Gear was bomber for lobbing tho!!
Batt - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/11 with James Hoyes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/11

Duck Egg - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/11 with Jon Stewart

andybirtwistle - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Keith Lonsdale

Barry D - 2nd - 05/Jul/11 with Richard W

Hidden - Lead β - 01/May/11

dprctr - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Paul Jones

joemallia - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Jill Whittaker, Fidel Sciamanna

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Rachel Takacs, Rosie Henstock

better for the tall but a good route otherwise, had to cheat a little bit as the crimps were a bit too much for me
Takacs - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with Laurence Everitt

Rosie Henstock - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with Laurence

a little disappointed, was expecting more, think i agree with the BMC guide about it being HVS
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Andrew

andrew549 - 2nd - 10/Apr/11 with Greame

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/11

mwatson - 2011

Guy Wilson - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/10 with Paulo

pabbage - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/10

Pretty reachy i thought, but good. Only HVS if you're a lanky bastard!
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with Rob Middleton

Not to hard very plesent
Dale - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with johny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

burto - Lead β - 16/Aug/10 with ben dorey, malc

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Aug/10

mark20 - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10

Failed on last move
tiga271 - 2nd - 24/Jul/10 with mark20

MD - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Heg

fatbuoybazza - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with deborah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

tradguy - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Ed Lamb

ed_1973 - 2nd - 03/Jul/10 with paul highams

claregardiner - Lead - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10

keefe - 05/Jun/10 with Tansy

jshields - Lead - 15/May/10 with Ed James

liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 05/May/10

moreno - Lead dog - May/10 with Rob Stone

ieverett - Lead dog - May/10 with Rob Stone

Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with Jenny Andexer, Charles Moreton

That's more like it.
mattparratt - Lead - 24/Apr/10

Dogmusher - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with Johan Piper

cem - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/10 with Jenny Andexer, Paul Bolton

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with John Inkpen

Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/10

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 10/Apr/10 with Ed O'Connell, Max Richardson

MRichardson - TR - 10/Apr/10

First "E1", although felt no harder than several HVS climbs I've done...
bigbobbyking - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris Allan

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/10

chrisallan - 2nd β - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

simon1965 - Lead β - 26/Sep/09 with peakdj

stuckonarock - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Phil M

A very nice climb, although I thought it seemed quite easy for the grade. Liked the little but positive crimps.
boulderholder - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Helen R

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 12/Sep/09

Ketu - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Nigel

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Slipped off the small crux holds due to the rain. That's my excuse anyway.
Byronius Maximus - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/09 with Alex Twist

Good route but too escapable for E1
Twisty - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Rayan Sammut, Byron Buck

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 30/Aug/09

No harder than mid-HVS.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Si & Andy

Clee - 2nd - 08/Aug/09 with Chris

Gustav - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Matt G

slacky - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Owen

Really reachy! There's some good gear, but the floors looking rather close by the time the crux moves come. If you don't hit the ledge on the right, you'd probably be fine, which you probably wouldn't. It's got a really nice move on small crimps reaching up and right to a hold near the arete. Then up and right things ease.
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Michael Watson

colin milton - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with ibbo

mjeffery - 2nd - 19/Apr/09

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Dave Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

very escapable, only one move really - reachy
danm - Lead - 02/Sep/08 with Greg

Misha - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/08

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Louise Rodgers

metal arms - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08

very soft!
Stig - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Very nice, but HVS at best. To the six footer who says he could only just reach the holds, I am rather shorter, and had to do a bit more to get to the holds. Still not E1, by a good bit.
cmsg - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Tom Cattermole

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Harry Martin

Adam1973 - 2nd O/S - 31/May/08 with Big Ian

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 11/May/08 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Oct/07

I'm 6' and I had to stretch to the max to reach the holds.
RocknRoll - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Richard McElligot

RichardMc - 2nd - 15/Sep/07 with Graham Sheey

RichardMc - Lead - 27/Aug/07 with Ian ?

Joe Dove - 2nd - 26/Aug/07 with paul

rayash - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/07 with neil

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/07

Very nice route. BMC guide gives it HVS which seems right.
max_chan - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Lou

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/07 with Mike Todd

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with John, Paul

Roget - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/07

Lukey B - TR O/S - Mar/07

JGW - 2007

in too much of a hurry and underestimated the pull! a really nice route which is unfortunately very escapable, otherwise it might be worth another star.
catt - 2nd dog - 06/Aug/06 with Dan

GPN - 2nd - Apr/06 with Paul James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Oct/05

sims - 2nd O/S - 23/May/04 with Nick

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/04

darren1 - 02/May/04

lithos - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/03

chris sm - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/03 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/03

cem - 2nd - 31/Aug/02 with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JonmapDL, jeffsheard, Fat Tim, aretherenoneleft, RalphC, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Chi Cheng, elbeanio, ChrisRGX, alimckay, Hannah Moulton, Malcolm Tucker's Sweary Aunt, climbingrick

Voting
Total votes cast 147
hard E20 of 49
E20 of 49
easy E20 of 49
hard E10 of 49
E113 of 49
easy E114 of 49
hard HVS19 of 49
HVS3 of 49
easy HVS0 of 49
hard 5c0 of 50
5c0 of 50
easy 5c0 of 50
hard 5b1 of 50
5b36 of 50
easy 5b9 of 50
hard 5a4 of 50
5a0 of 50
easy 5a0 of 50
3 Stars2 of 48
2 Stars35 of 48
1 Star8 of 48
0 Stars3 of 48
Bag of .....0 of 48
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Style of ascent

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dnf