Rockfax Description
Pleasant climbing throughout. Begin just right of the arete and climb the wall to a deep horizontal break (good gear). A difficult pull on small holds reaches another break. Continue trending right up the interesting wall, with one last tricky move where things steepen. The arete is out-of-bounds really! © Rockfax

FA. Chris Craggs 1996

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

cf2g08 01/Nov Lead O/S

I intended to do the VS to the right, but think I may've ended up doing this judging by the other descriptions. Nice to accidentally do my first E1 (even if it's only a finger-nail's width away from being an HVS)

with Iain
xiangoh 03/Oct Lead O/S
NOG 03/Oct 2nd β
Andy Clarke 29/Sep Lead O/S

Didn't feel soft to me, doing the crux move using just crimps to break and no holds on/near arete. Quite a hard lock off & stretch. Had a few ups & downs & almost came off before fully committing. Harder for the short - no surprise there! Have certainly done easier E1s. Downgraded to HVS because most people use holds out left? Or was I just having a hi-grav day?

dr_botnik 13/Sep Lead

Escaped right first go, came back fir a second try and did it. Peak hvs.

with neil
nrhardy 13/Sep 2nd dog

Not concentrating and fell off!

with Rob
nrhardy 13/Sep 2nd rpt

Didn't make the same mistake 2nd time round.

with Rob
charley 05/Sep Lead O/S
with JackD
Jackwd 05/Sep 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Aug Lead
sopaz 02/Aug Lead dnf

Traversed in to avoid crux...

with Mackie
Ian Hylands 12/Jul 2nd

Nice conditions considering it had just rained. A bit pumper than it looked from below, and wasn't sure whether to use the arÍte or not. V windy at the top.

with Antonio Ferra
LakesWinter 09/Jul Lead O/S
Cake 09/Jul Lead

On Matt's gear.

kermit_uk 04/Jul Lead O/S
with Michelle
Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
Antonio Ferra ?/Jul Lead O/S
with Iain
caradoc 16/Jun Lead O/S

Not quite the soft touch I expected having read the comments on here. I suspect those climbers who think it is HVS were using holds around the arÍte which unfortunately is quite tempting.

with nick yapp
tatz45 26/May Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 09/Apr Lead
with John Nuttall
John Nuttall 09/Apr 2nd
with Coel
fuzzysheep01 22/Mar Lead O/S
MattKettle 22/Mar 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd
Derek Furze 05/Sep/14 Lead
with Paul Wheeler
Matt Harmon 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 05/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Quite soft for E1, though would be worth three stars if some of the holds didn't feel as snappy. Nice moves.

amccann 05/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Luke Jones 24/Aug/14 2nd dog
with Will, Graham
Freshprintce 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with AnnB, TimG
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Alex 74 04/Aug/14 TR O/S
with Ian Bunton
Marti999 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Gudge 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great holds & gear - what more could you ask for? Very soft for E1!

ned_85 17/Jul/14 2nd
OliverRoss 21/Jun/14 Lead dog

Everyone else had left the crag due to a sudden midge swarm. I wanted to have a first attempt at an E1 though, this was a mistake. It isn't ideal for a climber to be pushing their grade whilst both they, and their belayer are swatting midges. Took a fall on the first crux. Finished the rest of the climb using a hold on the arete for the 1st crux, and veering off to the left.

with Alkis
Nevil 12/Jun/14 Lead
with Mike
simon1965 11/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead dnf
harold walmsley 18/May/14 Lead O/S


with Colin Struthers
jogh 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Flic, Steve, Pete
pete_naylor 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with James
nick ferro 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Oli Birkill
jimbonfire 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
thetradlad 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
C May ?/Apr/14 2nd
with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder ?/Apr/14 Lead
with C May
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
chrisbussell 09/Jul/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
poeter210 06/Jul/13 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
kim.mulji 06/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Nick
Pete Wimbush 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Eric
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
deacondeacon 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
the power 29/Jun/13 Lead β

lead up to crux struggled to work out move down climbed give deacon a go then pulled ropes and lead on pre placed gear

with deacon
claregardiner 25/Jun/13 2nd
Jackwd 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Straightforward enough!

with Nigel Berry
mikealexpayne 09/Jun/13 Lead
ColinD 09/Jun/13 Lead

Lovely, enjoyable as a HVS. Used arete after some debate from description at crag.

with Keith
brownie mike 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
keith leonard ?/Jun/13 2nd
NickJH ?/Apr/13 Lead dnf
with Andy Cross
Ahab 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
jessyb 08/Sep/12 2nd

Lovely climb. Certainly easy in the grade, although having said I foolishly attempted the same reachy mid move through the thin holds to the arete like Matt & Charlie forgetting they have at least 1 foot on me height wise and came off. Just careless on my part. Great climb. Great rock. Fucking long walk in on a hot morning.

with Charlie
Mowglee 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Nichols
Jim Slater 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Simon_Letman 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with olly
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd rpt
gazfellows 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Lara, Miquel, Anna, Billy
madasten 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Gaz
treg 25/Jun/12 Lead dog

With a brief rest cos I was pumped by the time I got to the crimpy move. As with all my leads at the top of my grade, a good dose of just getting on with it would have probably done the trick. Although I want it to be E1, you're never far from a decent rest and bomber cams, so HVS seems fair.

with Rachel
Steven Andrews 27/May/12 Lead O/S

First E1 (Three Pebble Slab excepting) and yes a bit soft but good to get on the board. Nice route with good holds.

with Andrew Marshall
ushi 27/May/12 2nd
with Steven, Andy Marshall
max_chan 26/May/12 Lead rpt
with Phil PCC
claregardiner 26/May/12 Lead
richyg 26/May/12 Lead
Compo 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Gareth
markfairbank 24/Mar/12 Lead dog

Read it wrong in trying to go directly to the break from the crimps, should of used the arete. Alright when you know how!

with Ian Moore
cem 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Rob Truckle
PAJames ??/2012 -
cobweb 03/Sep/11 2nd

very nice

with martyn hopson
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Batt 21/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Height is an issue, and finger strength, too damn short! Gear was bomber for lobbing tho!!

Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Duck Egg 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Jon Stewart
andybirtwistle 28/Jul/11 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
Barry D 05/Jul/11 2nd
with Richard W
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead β
dprctr 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
joemallia 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Takacs 16/Apr/11 2nd

better for the tall but a good route otherwise, had to cheat a little bit as the crimps were a bit too much for me

with Laurence Everitt
Rosie Henstock 16/Apr/11 2nd
Graeme Hammond 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

a little disappointed, was expecting more, think i agree with the BMC guide about it being HVS

with Andrew
andrew549 10/Apr/11 2nd
with Greame
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd
mwatson ??/2011 -
Guy Wilson 13/Oct/10 Lead dnf
with Paulo
pabbage 13/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Jonathan Hall 05/Sep/10 Lead

Pretty reachy i thought, but good. Only HVS if you're a lanky bastard!

Dale ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Not to hard very plesent

with johny
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
burto 16/Aug/10 Lead β
with ben dorey, malc
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead β
mark20 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
tiga271 24/Jul/10 2nd

Failed on last move

with mark20
MD 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Heg
fatbuoybazza 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with deborah
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
tradguy 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ed Lamb
ed_1973 03/Jul/10 2nd
claregardiner ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
keefe 05/Jun/10 -
with Tansy
jshields 15/May/10 Lead
liamoloughlin 05/May/10 Lead O/S
moreno ?/May/10 Lead dog
with Rob Stone
ieverett ?/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
mattparratt 24/Apr/10 Lead

That's more like it.

Dogmusher 24/Apr/10 2nd
with Johan Piper
cem 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Jenny Andexer, Paul Bolton
ChrisBrooke 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead
disturbed_one51 10/Apr/10 Lead
MRichardson 10/Apr/10 TR
bigbobbyking 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First "E1", although felt no harder than several HVS climbs I've done...

with Chris Allan
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd
chrisallan 10/Apr/10 2nd β
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
simon1965 26/Sep/09 Lead β
with peakdj
stuckonarock 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Phil M
boulderholder 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

A very nice climb, although I thought it seemed quite easy for the grade. Liked the little but positive crimps.

with Helen R
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead
Ketu 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Byronius Maximus 30/Aug/09 2nd dog

Slipped off the small crux holds due to the rain. That's my excuse anyway.

Twisty 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good route but too escapable for E1

with Rayan Sammut, Byron Buck
Hidden 30/Aug/09 2nd dnf
Owen W-G 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

No harder than mid-HVS.

with Si & Andy
Clee 08/Aug/09 2nd
with Chris
Gustav 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Matt G
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd O/S
Reaver2k 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Really reachy! There's some good gear, but the floors looking rather close by the time the crux moves come. If you don't hit the ledge on the right, you'd probably be fine, which you probably wouldn't. It's got a really nice move on small crimps reaching up and right to a hold near the arete. Then up and right things ease.

with Michael Watson
colin milton 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with ibbo
mjeffery 19/Apr/09 2nd
mick1jones 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Dave Williams
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
danm 02/Sep/08 Lead

very escapable, only one move really - reachy

with Greg
Misha 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Louise Rodgers
metal arms 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Stig 11/Aug/08 2nd O/S

very soft!

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
cmsg 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Very nice, but HVS at best. To the six footer who says he could only just reach the holds, I am rather shorter, and had to do a bit more to get to the holds. Still not E1, by a good bit.

with Tom Cattermole
tobydunford 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Adam1973 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
Martin Haworth 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 11/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/07 2nd O/S
RocknRoll 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S

I'm 6' and I had to stretch to the max to reach the holds.

with Richard McElligot
RichardMc 15/Sep/07 2nd
with Graham Sheey
Hidden 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
RichardMc 27/Aug/07 Lead
with Ian ?
Joe Dove 26/Aug/07 2nd
with paul
rayash 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with neil
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead
max_chan 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Very nice route. BMC guide gives it HVS which seems right.

with Lou
ASchwirtz 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
bullwinkle 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with John, Paul
Roget 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

HVS 5b.

with Adam W
Sidekick 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Lukey B ?/Mar/07 TR O/S
JGW ??/2007 -
catt 06/Aug/06 2nd dog

in too much of a hurry and underestimated the pull! a really nice route which is unfortunately very escapable, otherwise it might be worth another star.

with Dan
GPN ?/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/05 2nd
sims 23/May/04 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 23/May/04 Lead
darren1 02/May/04 -
lithos 21/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 2nd O/S
chris sm 14/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ?/Apr/03 2nd
Hidden 31/Mar/03 Lead O/S
cem 31/Aug/02 2nd
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, JonmapDL, AsleepOnBelay, Fat Tim, aretherenoneleft, RalphC, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Chi Cheng, elbeanio, ChrisRGX, Hidden, alimckay, Hannah Moulton, Hidden, Hidden, Yanis Nayu, Hidden, climbingrick
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 56
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set