The Vice** E1 5b
[Toby Foord Kelcey off The Vice (E1 5b) at Stanage End, 2 kb]10m. The leaning widening crack is climbed by strenuous jamming to a gruesome shelving exit where the crack flares. Gritstone brutality at its best, it can be a hideous affair, unless you are a proficient jammer with big leathery hands! © ROCKFAX
FA. Clive Rowland 1962. (Pete Crew according to some).

Ticklists: BMC On-Peak Rock: Jamming tests, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, 50 cracks to Squamish, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Photo: Toby Foord Kelcey off The Vice (E1 5b) at Stanage End © Alan James, ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 109 logbooks, and on 40 wishlists.

Even fist jamming wasn't big enough.
Rachel Slater - Lead dog - 13/Jul/14 with Olli Crudge

Tried to lead, didnt see the pocket, seconded.
Olli-C - 2nd - 13/Jul/14 with Rachel Slater

nick ferro - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Andrew Edwards

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Jun/14

Rested on gear, knackering!
Ewano - Lead dog - 22/Jun/14

A bot of a story here. Pete led with rests and then I led clean on his gear. A great day and good weather.
Tony Holdsworth - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/14 with Peter Harris

awesome
phil64 - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

1 rest. Should go next time with less faff now I know which cams to take and where to place them. Decent battle though...
Calum Wadsworth - Lead dog - 14/May/14 with Nick P, Tom A

Nick1812P - Lead β - 14/May/14 with Tom A, Calum

Really fun, the jams are all pretty bomber, it's just quite steep. Definitely no harder than E1.
Teappleby - Lead - 14/May/14 with Nick Priestly, Calum Wadsworth

slacky - 2nd - 03/May/14 with Chris Saunders

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2014

Dan Arkle - 2014

Tophe - Lead RP - 05/Oct/13 with Ben Ochner, Jonny P

Beast!
funsized - Lead RP - 05/Oct/13 with Chris

beneole - Lead dog - Oct/13

What a struggle!
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead RP - 08/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/13

JulesV - 25/May/13

took a couple of goes to reach the offwidth, I found this the crux and gave up. it was easy to retreve the gear from the block on the right
dr_botnik - Lead dnf - 19/May/13

Really pleased to onsight this. I've been dreading it for ages but didn't find it too bad in the end, although I did do a little Ondra power scream at the top. Oh and no tape too.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

Not as hard this time
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 19/May/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/May/13

steve_yo - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/13 with jojo

5 falls, 3 stars
Hannes B - Lead - 02/Mar/13 with Emmsi

andi turner - 2013

slipped near top, straight back on and up.
john lynch - Lead dog - 05/Oct/12 with ed luke, adam harrison

Felt hard, but it was the 64th route of the day!
Boy - Lead - 09/Sep/12

With a anti-midge head net. Took a near ground fall from the crux, and didn't try again. Tough!
masa-alpin - Lead dnf - 19/Aug/12 with Andy Rich

I did not start
sshandy - 2nd - 19/Aug/12 with Masa

Lives up to its reputation and then some, butch, burly, sequency, relentless jamming, actually the top out is probably the worst bit, took its pound of flesh from my hands, even after tapping up.
Brannock - Lead dog - 22/Jul/12

Dead arrd
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 15/Jul/12 with random

spragglerocks - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12 with Andy

Taping up isn't cheating.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dog - 26/May/12 with Courty

M_W_Court - 2nd - 26/May/12 with ian sutcliffe

Brown - Lead - 16/May/12 with Ryan

seccond go ground up.. put a bloody cam were i needed to jam. brill route though! 3 stars
efrance24234 - Lead RP - 14/May/12

Obi-Wan is lost... - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Calum

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

hard, end of day syndrome. come back and get slightly further off the ground this time
benkelsey - Lead dnf - 22/Oct/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - Lead RP - 22/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/11

So much blood. Got up to the good fists and had to back off, hands were still ruined from the unprintable + a month of climbing, this finished them! I'll be back.
JRae - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/11 with P Latham

Got spanked at the end on the jams at the top as my hands just couldnt stay in the beast. Great fun but brutal.
disturbed_one51 - Lead dnf - 21/May/11 with Wee man

Tough, awesome. I can (just about!) jam! Seconded clean afterwards for the fun of it :)
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 01/Apr/11 with Mike

ACE!!!! A much easier top out than I was expecting, large fists and good apprenticeship in gritstone jamming helped. Planned my gear placements from the ground, the sprinted for glory, abseiling for the gear took more time. Well chuffed, only a couple of minor cuts to the back of the hands too, tapping up would be cheating!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Becky E

On first attempt I rested about three quarters the way up. Came back a few weeks later when hands recovered. With the experience gained of shreding my hands I taped up - first time - but still managed to take skin off. Done since but with rest.
David Smith - Lead - 2011 with Al Bennett

hands knackered.need friend 4
alasdair19 - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

keith leonard - Lead dnf - 2011

mwatson - 2011

walts4 - 2011

A great introduction to what has now become my new favourite climbing style! Fell off a couple of times low down as I didn't get the right sequence but it really didn't matter, I haven't been so excited about topping out a route in a long time.
Andrew Barker - Lead - 22/Aug/10 with Tom Lyons

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Jun/10

Utterly dogged - rested after almost evey move. But still felt like an achievement to have got up it!
max_chan - 2nd dog - 17/Jun/10 with Phil PCC

Desperate, especially with the rope blocking the crack!
Tez29 - 2nd dog - 28/May/10 with Todd, Tom, Ivan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

ground up on 5th attempt... one of my favourites.
dav - Lead - 18/Oct/09 with Gill B

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Oct/09

Too much pain, couldn't push through. Almost quit completely. It has teeth! My hands were fairly bloody. Perfect introduction to grit jamming for a crimping limestone junkie!
jacobjlloyd - 2nd dog - 11/Oct/09 with Felix

feilx - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Jake, john

craig d - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with penny and simon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09

Brown - 2nd dog - 05/Jul/09 with John

wolverine - 25/Jun/09 with John Nightingale

Sigh...and *ow*...
alicia - Lead dnf - 07/May/09 with Bridget

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Dan

keith leonard - Lead dnf - 2009

Ian Hamer - 2nd dog - 2009 with Steve

al99 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with James Whitlock

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Jul/08

Crikey!
alaan - Lead dnf - 12/Jul/08 with James and Jim

Pete Graham - Lead - 13/Feb/08 with Tom Everett

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 2008

Hardest 5b in the world!??
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead dog - 25/Aug/07 with Liam O'Loughlin

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/07

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/06

dan gibson - 2006

Nicos - Lead RP - 13/Nov/05 with rich howels

reg_measures - Lead dog - 05/Jun/05

Tim Steward - Lead - 05/Jun/05 with Torran Elson

Scottish78 - 01/Apr/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Sep/04

Really proud of my onsight of this one. Needed alot of gumption. Almscliff apprentiship helps, as will skin sacrifices
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/04

Nicos - Lead dnf - 17/May/04 with mark richardson

shoulders - Lead - 22/Jun/03 with dai

Can't fist jam for toffee.
Jon Read - Lead dog - 2001 with Alan James

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 22/Aug/00 with Kaspar Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/95

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/93

BRUCESTRAC - 1990 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Chris Craggs - Lead O/S - 1980

paul__in_sheffield - Lead - 1980

rogerskews - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
rurp, OliverIF, hodge192, Calum Wadsworth, Matt250, Duck Egg, Siderunner, Dan Geh, tgeh, lewiz, iceaxejuggler, JamieSparkes, peter myers, RyanC, Jonathan Hall, colin harvey, alicia, Rachel Loaring, timo.t, PanzerHanzler, pep, Chris Sansum

Voting
Total votes cast 149
hard E20 of 52
E22 of 52
easy E218 of 52
hard E18 of 52
E115 of 52
easy E11 of 52
hard HVS8 of 52
HVS0 of 52
easy HVS0 of 52
hard 5c0 of 50
5c1 of 50
easy 5c19 of 50
hard 5b10 of 50
5b15 of 50
easy 5b4 of 50
hard 5a1 of 50
5a0 of 50
easy 5a0 of 50
3 Stars33 of 47
2 Stars13 of 47
1 Star0 of 47
0 Stars1 of 47
Bag of .....0 of 47
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Style of ascent

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dogged
dnf