Rockfax Description
The leaning widening crack is climbed by strenuous jamming to a gruesome shelving exit where the crack flares. Gritstone brutality at its best, it can be a hideous affair, unless you are a proficient jammer with big leathery hands! © Rockfax

FA. Clive Rowland 1962. (Pete Crew according to some).

Ticklists: BMC On-Peak Rock: Jamming tests, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, 50 cracks to Squamish, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, WideBoyz Crack School.

Dan Geh 10/Oct Lead O/S

Bossed it. HVS.

with Arjun
Andy Peak 1 02/Oct Lead rpt


with Dan Lee
FlavioL1989 27/Sep Lead G/U

Such a pig, but so gooood

pearson9596 16/Aug Lead O/S
quiffhanger 16/Aug 2nd

Pretty sure I would have fell off this if I was leading it!

Stroppy 15/Aug Lead dog

Awesome route, a complete sandbag at E1, probably a complete sandbag at any grade (within reason). I would advise tape.

Hidden 02/Aug 2nd dog
soph 10/Jul Lead RP
with Michaela Tracy
RosePearson 23/May Lead dnf

Attempted but not completed. Failed at top after falling several times already.

JamieSparkes 22/May Lead O/S

hard work, but good jams.

with Clement Hutin
Andy Fielding 17/May Lead dog
with Mike Walton
drysori 16/May Lead
with Everyone!
Brannock 16/May 2nd rpt


tim newton 04/May Lead RP

Rach had a go first so the gear was in (thank goodness). Tried to flash on her gear but fell off the top. Went second go.

Rachel Slater 04/May Lead RP

Oooo yeah psyched! Never thought i'd get up this thing. Sat on the gear a lot the first time, found the best jams then lead it clean on the gear I placed the first time. Great route.

Mowglee 25/Apr 2nd dog
with Tom Nichols, Ali
mikeyjbs 24/Apr Lead dog

You definitely want to tape your hands up for this one

with mat downes
drysori 18/Apr TR
Canyak ??/2015 -
Rachel Slater 13/Jul/14 Lead dog

Even fist jamming wasn't big enough.

Olli-C 13/Jul/14 2nd

Tried to lead, didnt see the pocket, seconded.

nick ferro 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead RP
Ewano 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

Rested on gear, knackering!

Tony Holdsworth 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt

A bot of a story here. Pete led with rests and then I led clean on his gear. A great day and good weather.

with Peter Harris
phil64 17/May/14 Lead O/S


Calum Wadsworth 14/May/14 Lead dog

1 rest. Should go next time with less faff now I know which cams to take and where to place them. Decent battle though...

Nick1812P 14/May/14 Lead β
with Tom A, Calum
Teappleby 14/May/14 Lead

Really fun, the jams are all pretty bomber, it's just quite steep. Definitely no harder than E1.

Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
David Sherratt ??/2014 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
Tophe 05/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Ben Ochner, Jonny P
funsized 05/Oct/13 Lead RP


with Chris
beneole ?/Oct/13 Lead dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 08/Sep/13 Lead RP

What a struggle!

Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead
JulesV 25/May/13 -
dr_botnik 19/May/13 Lead dnf

took a couple of goes to reach the offwidth, I found this the crux and gave up. it was easy to retreve the gear from the block on the right

deacondeacon 19/May/13 Lead O/S

Really pleased to onsight this. I've been dreading it for ages but didn't find it too bad in the end, although I did do a little Ondra power scream at the top. Oh and no tape too.

Andy Peak 1 19/May/13 Lead

Not as hard this time

Hidden 04/May/13 Lead RP
steve_yo 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with jojo
Hannes B 02/Mar/13 Lead

5 falls, 3 stars

with Emmsi
andi turner ??/2013 -
john lynch 05/Oct/12 Lead dog

slipped near top, straight back on and up.

with ed luke, adam harrison
Boy 09/Sep/12 Lead

Felt hard, but it was the 64th route of the day!

masa-alpin 19/Aug/12 Lead dnf

With a anti-midge head net. Took a near ground fall from the crux, and didn't try again. Tough!

Hidden 19/Aug/12 2nd
Brannock 22/Jul/12 Lead dog

Lives up to its reputation and then some, butch, burly, sequency, relentless jamming, actually the top out is probably the worst bit, took its pound of flesh from my hands, even after tapping up.

Andy Peak 1 15/Jul/12 Lead

Dead arrd

with random
spragglerocks 15/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Andy
ianjfsutcliffe 26/May/12 Lead dog

Taping up isn't cheating.

with Courty
M_W_Court 26/May/12 2nd
Brown 16/May/12 Lead
with Ryan
efrance24234 14/May/12 Lead RP

seccond go ground up.. put a bloody cam were i needed to jam. brill route though! 3 stars

Obi-Wan is lost... 11/Mar/12 2nd
with Calum
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
benkelsey 22/Oct/11 Lead dnf

hard, end of day syndrome. come back and get slightly further off the ground this time

Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S
JRae 07/Jun/11 Lead dnf

So much blood. Got up to the good fists and had to back off, hands were still ruined from the unprintable + a month of climbing, this finished them! I'll be back.

with P Latham
disturbed_one51 21/May/11 Lead dnf

Got spanked at the end on the jams at the top as my hands just couldnt stay in the beast. Great fun but brutal.

with Wee man
thomasadixon 01/Apr/11 Lead dog

Tough, awesome. I can (just about!) jam! Seconded clean afterwards for the fun of it :)

with Mike
Graeme Hammond 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

ACE!!!! A much easier top out than I was expecting, large fists and good apprenticeship in gritstone jamming helped. Planned my gear placements from the ground, the sprinted for glory, abseiling for the gear took more time. Well chuffed, only a couple of minor cuts to the back of the hands too, tapping up would be cheating!

with Becky E
uphillnow ??/2011 Lead

On first attempt I rested about three quarters the way up. Came back a few weeks later when hands recovered. With the experience gained of shreding my hands I taped up - first time - but still managed to take skin off. Done since but with rest.

with Al Bennett
alasdair19 ??/2011 -

hands knackered.need friend 4

Hidden ??/2011 Lead
keith leonard ??/2011 Lead dnf
mwatson ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
Andrew Barker 22/Aug/10 Lead

A great introduction to what has now become my new favourite climbing style! Fell off a couple of times low down as I didn't get the right sequence but it really didn't matter, I haven't been so excited about topping out a route in a long time.

with Tom Lyons
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead dog
max_chan 17/Jun/10 2nd dog

Utterly dogged - rested after almost evey move. But still felt like an achievement to have got up it!

with Phil PCC
Tez29 28/May/10 2nd dog

Desperate, especially with the rope blocking the crack!

with Todd, Tom, Ivan
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
dav 18/Oct/09 Lead

ground up on 5th attempt... one of my favourites.

with Gill B
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead dnf
jacobjlloyd 11/Oct/09 2nd dog

Too much pain, couldn't push through. Almost quit completely. It has teeth! My hands were fairly bloody. Perfect introduction to grit jamming for a crimping limestone junkie!

with Felix
feilx 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Jake, john
craig d 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with penny and simon
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Brown 05/Jul/09 2nd dog
with John
Hidden 25/Jun/09 -
alicia 07/May/09 Lead dnf

Sigh...and *ow*...

with Bridget
eddy-on-the-rocks 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dan
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead dnf
Ian Hamer ??/2009 2nd dog
with Steve
al99 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Whitlock
Hidden 29/Jul/08 Lead dog
alaan 12/Jul/08 Lead dnf


with James and Jim
Pete Graham 13/Feb/08 Lead
with Tom Everett
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 25/Aug/07 Lead dog

Hardest 5b in the world!??

Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/07 2nd rpt
jamesturnbull ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Nicos 13/Nov/05 Lead RP
reg_measures 05/Jun/05 Lead dog
Tim Steward 05/Jun/05 Lead
with Torran Elson
Scottish78 01/Apr/05 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden 05/Sep/04 Lead dog
Cragrat Rich ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S

Really proud of my onsight of this one. Needed alot of gumption. Almscliff apprentiship helps, as will skin sacrifices

Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Nicos 17/May/04 Lead dnf
with mark richardson
shoulders 22/Jun/03 Lead
with dai
Ropeboy 27/Apr/03 Lead

Made a right hash of this!

Jon Read ??/2001 Lead dog

Can't fist jam for toffee.

tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH ??/2001 2nd
goi.ashmore 22/Aug/00 Lead RP
with Kaspar Martin
Hidden 09/Sep/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
BRUCESTRAC ??/1990 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Rob Davies ??/1990 2nd dnf

Date? Mick climbed first part quickly, but everything went pear-shaped at the finish

with Mick Moss
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead O/S
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
rogerskews ??/1976 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Remyveness, ashtond6, Hidden, Bernie L, Kassius, Geoff82, Hidden, Lukeyhear, CaelanB, rurp, OliverIF, hodge192, Hidden, Calum Wadsworth, Matt250, Duck Egg, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Siderunner, Hidden, tgeh, lewiz, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, peter myers, Hidden, RyanC, Hidden, Jonathan Hall, Hidden, colin harvey, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, alicia, Hidden, Hidden, Rachel Loaring, Hidden, timo.t, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, pep, Chris Sansum
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 60
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set