Rockfax Description
Another great route and low in the grade, which is always nice. Climb a small corner to a narrow stepped-overhang. Layback onto the front face to a poor rest, then follow the thin technical crack, using the left arete as required. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, WideBoyz Crack School.

georgenvk 11/Oct 2nd dog
soph 03/Oct Lead rpt
with Fabrizio Della Rossa
Sean Kelly 03/Oct 2nd

Very pumpy. Went on this thinking it was a HVS!

with Chris Ebbutt
chris ebbutt 03/Oct Lead dog

Failed to read the move up the thin crack.

with Sean
rajeshwarbisht 27/Sep 2nd dnf
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 27/Sep Lead O/S
RKirke 15/Aug Lead O/S
Stroppy 15/Aug 2nd dog
Radical-G 07/Jun TR RP
John Higgs 30/May Lead dog

On Al's and Tim's left in gear.

drysori 16/May Lead
with Everyone!
Brannock 16/May 2nd
clams ?/May Lead dog

Led w/ aiders

CatMc ?/May 2nd dog
with clams
Mowglee 25/Apr Lead RP
with Tom Nichols, Ali
Mowglee 18/Apr Lead dog
with Ali
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd β
Hidden 18/Apr Lead dnf
drysori 17/Apr TR
Mr Wild 06/Apr 2nd
Macleod ??/2015 Lead O/S
Canyak ??/2015 -
Ed morris 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with stefan
morganator 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
tim.fairhall 13/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Eric+Kasia
JonmapDL 30/Jul/14 Lead dog

misread it. didn't listen to guide "use arete"...

Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
simon1965 06/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with James
Stig 06/Jun/14 Lead dog

Got my arse kicked.

Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead
theomoore 26/May/14 Lead RP


Rachel Slater 25/May/14 Lead O/S

Short and sweet :)

Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
jonleighton 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 01/Dec/13 2nd
Duncan Campbell 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Short-lived but hard crux. Very well protected though.

with Cherry Bedford, Robbie
rustaldo 30/Nov/13 Lead dog

Found it hard to read once around the corner, crack looks alot better from the ground!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 30/Nov/13 2nd
pie_eater_pete 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
ashtond6 10/Nov/13 Lead dnf

crux extremely hard to read

JamesTurnbull97 10/Nov/13 Lead

Gear in after belaying my dad, gear in

Hidden 29/Sep/13 -
madasten 08/Sep/13 2nd dog

Safe as houses but much harder than it looked from the ground! Another one to come back to another day.

with Gaz
gazfellows 08/Sep/13 Lead

Gave a coat of lookin at, then tied on t give it a go. Climbed round the lip on to the face, put some gear in, then got pumped, then sat on it.!! Took a few attempts to get the crux move wired, then topped out. Ace route tho, but not sure about low in the grade as the book sez! Will be back wig me man B.. Aarrgghhhh..

with Billy nic, steff
Mike W 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S
joesmith 16/Jun/13 2nd dog
with tony
climberchristy 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Fell on crux on first attempt. Then finished it and Ben seconded. Then I led it clean a bit later. Crux is hard to read onsight. OK once you know the sequence. A great route. Such a classic line.

with Ben Cole
Hidden ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead RP
Andy Peak 1 19/May/13 Lead

This is not a worm up:-) fell off finished rote, pulled ropes and lead clean

bigbobbyking 19/May/13 2nd dog

had to rest to remove gear that Peter had fallen on. Wouldn't have done it without the rests either way...

marcduhig 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Richard, Owen
owenhancock22 20/Apr/13 TR dnf
Hidden ?/Apr/13 Lead dog
Dave Musgrove Jnr ??/2013 Lead O/S
JHiley 27/Oct/12 2nd dog

Managed to fall across the crux therefore skipping it out and then shamelessly aid the rest. E1/ E2 is clearly still another planet for me at the moment.

john lynch 05/Oct/12 2nd rpt
with ed luke, adam harrison
Apharri 05/Oct/12 Lead RP
jshields 01/Sep/12 2nd

Previous lead Oct'95

with Paul Tretheway
JamieSparkes 16/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead
Ethan 12/May/12 Lead β
with Sam
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead dnf
Ricky Rocks 05/May/12 Lead dog

shut-down. v.much learning my trade in the world of crack climbing.

pigeonslipper 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
john lynch 13/Mar/12 Lead dog


with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
marcduhig 28/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Started to rain. That one of many reasons I failed. boo

Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead β
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd
Ahab 16/Aug/11 Lead dog

One to come back and get clean. I reckon the guidebooks assessment as easy E2 is fair; gear is great and easy to place. I would recommend it to an E1 climber as one to jump on, but I wouldnt expect them to get the onsight!

Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
BeccaSnowden 14/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Tom
thomasadixon 14/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Still didn't feel soft at the grade! Had rested on it in 4/9.

with Becca
Hidden 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S
JRae 07/Jun/11 2nd
with P Latham
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead dog
Graeme Hammond 03/May/11 Lead O/S

Was very close to falling off (duff sequence?)but pushed on as the gear was good and just made it :) Not a true on-sight as started the climb before but down climbed due to sticky hot humid conditions and midges .

Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Fran S8 17/Apr/11 Lead β
Dave Foster 09/Apr/11 Lead

Ass on a plate. Took more than a few goes to work out the crux. Felt similar grade/style as Black Hawk Bastion. As others have said, worth going back to for stab at clean lead.

with Robin
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
uphillnow ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
highlux 22/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 21/Sep/10 2nd rpt

Went OK

with Dan McKinlay
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
DavidR 08/Aug/10 Lead dog

Terrible effort. Very disappointed not to do better on this. Came unstuck moving up where the crack thins.

drcorbasisgod 07/Aug/10 Lead dog
Dogmusher 07/Aug/10 2nd dog
with chris parson
jelaby 31/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead dnf
mark20 31/May/10 Lead dnf

Fell off crux, incredibly greasy today.

Tez29 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ivan
Cragrat Rich 11/May/10 Lead O/S

Great climb, lots of good gear and very nice moves through the crux... which got dutifully despatched by an electrifying display of style

Hidden 11/May/10 Lead O/S
liamoloughlin 28/Apr/10 Lead
geddicakes 28/Apr/10 2nd dog
with Liam
Owen W-G 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Had low expectation of success due to poor form/fitness/injuries but went pretty well, so probable softie at E2. V good tho, 3* for sure. Overhung start and arete finish both easier than it looks, gear straight out the top draw, plus a sweet layback crux with tiptoe smearing. Stunning weather that day too.

with Gav & Si
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead dog

A good route. Will be back to do it properly sometime once I'm fit again.

with Brian and Tom Eagle
jimmys 17/Oct/09 2nd dog
with remus
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead dog
jacobjlloyd 11/Oct/09 2nd dog

Not hard to do, just hard to read.

with Felix
feilx 10/Oct/09 Lead RP
with Jake
Ketu 27/Sep/09 Lead dog
Kirill 27/Sep/09 2nd dnf

could not do the crux

Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with AJ, michael porter
Hidden 14/Sep/09 2nd
Compo 06/Sep/09 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 11/Jul/09 Lead G/U

Dropped my wires. Jam, foot up reach. Easy second go :-(

Hidden 05/Jul/09 -
Ben1983 04/Jul/09 Lead dog
Tony Holdsworth 08/Jun/09 2nd rpt

Neat lead by Pete

with Peter Harris
Hidden 08/Jun/09 -
ellie macpherson 25/May/09 Lead dog
with mike henesey
Milne 10/May/09 2nd dog

didnt feel low in the bloody grade, real hard work and lots of it.

Ben_Bullbridge 10/May/09 2nd dog
with Milne
tallsop 10/May/09 Lead

First E2 lead, rested a few times, got there in the end. loved the slappy moves up the arete :)

with terry
Hidden 22/Apr/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
figfour 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with ken
Tom Eagle 05/Apr/09 -
Brown ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Henry
feilx 11/Oct/08 Lead dog
with Floris
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
HughM 20/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Shane Norton
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd RP
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead dog
WB 18/May/08 Lead rpt
with Guy
Nicos 18/May/08 Lead O/S
joe larner 10/May/08 Lead
Ian Broome 19/Apr/08 Lead RP
with Al
petellis 16/Feb/08 Lead dnf
mattyork2 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Skell 10/Feb/08 Lead dog
with Kelvin
dan gibson ??/2008 -
Phill Mitch ??/2008 Lead O/S
with dave
Dave Bond 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
Hidden 01/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/07 2nd dog
ksjs 14/Jul/07 Lead dog

very very good - perfect protection. took 3-4 gos to work out crux, worth repeating

Hidden 17/Jun/07 2nd dog
Ian Broome 12/Jun/07 Lead dog

still to do clean one day!

with Matt
Hidden 11/Jun/07 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Pete Graham ??/2007 2nd
jamesturnbull ??/2007 Lead
Ian Broome 21/Oct/06 Lead dog
with Andy Reeve
loonyclimber 08/Oct/06 Lead

Felt tough and sustained...but there's gear by the bucketfull but hard work for E2..(or do i need to stop being a jessie and just pull harder??) Well done Al for flashing it.. :D

with Alex
Alex Mason 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S

quite tough, good hand jam and thin smears for feet, suprisingly pumpy.

with kieth poskitt et al
Boy ??/2006 -
Neil Ireson ?/Aug/05 Lead
with Guy R
Mark Riley ?/May/05 Lead rpt
cem 24/Apr/05 Lead dog

Knocked all my wires out with my foot as I was moving on to the front face & then got pumped getting something else in asap so had to rest on gear

with Miles Butteriss
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
BruceW ??/2005 Lead β

Second attempt of day. Gear already in. Tried it in the 90's first.

with Becca, Justin
Hidden 30/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
shoulders 19/May/02 Lead O/S
with tom
Carl Smethurst 22/Jul/01 2nd
with Ian Pickles
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Apr/00 2nd
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 05/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/97 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/97 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/97 Lead
ste_d 19/May/97 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 01/Apr/97 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ??/1997 2nd dog
with Richard Ibberson
Hidden 16/Jul/96 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/96 Lead
Hidden 30/Apr/95 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Apr/95 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/1995 -
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
goi.ashmore 28/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
robyn1 ??/1992 -
Rich Kirby 22/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Hidden 31/Aug/91 Lead RP
Hidden 21/May/91 Lead O/S
Roget 20/May/90 Lead O/S
with jon
Dave Musgrove 23/Sep/89 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 04/Jun/89 2nd
Rob Davies ?/May/88 2nd
with Mick Moss, Brian Hannon
Derek Ryden ?/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with Mick Falzon
shark 06/Jun/87 Lead
Bruce Kerr 17/Apr/87 2nd
with Grahame Nicoll
TonyF 23/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Paul Harrison
Hidden 12/Jul/86 AltLd
John Marsland 20/Oct/85 Lead
with George Shaw
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
charlesmfrench 06/Aug/83 AltLd O/S


steve L 11/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
Mark Kemball 23/May/81 Lead
with Paul Clark
Hidden 07/Sep/80 2nd
andy gittins ??/1980 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 61
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set