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Orang-outang*** E2 5c

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[Orang-Outang, 2 kb]12m. Yet another great route and low in the grade. Climb a small corner to a narrow stepped overhang. Layback onto the front face to a poor rest, then follow the thin wire-filled crack. On the crux, the left arete will probably be of use. © ROCKFAX
FA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Photo: Orang-Outang © Andy Stephenson
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 188 logbooks, and on 33 wishlists.

misread it. didn't listen to guide "use arete"...
JonmapDL - Lead dog - 30/Jul/14 with Phil Jennings

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/14

simon1965 - 2nd rpt - 06/Jun/14 with James

Got my arse kicked.
Stig - Lead dog - 06/Jun/14 with Simon1965

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/14

pumpy!
theomoore - Lead RP - 26/May/14

Short and sweet :)
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 25/May/14 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

DNF. Ninja move to the triangle shaped rock half way up
Chris Perry - 2nd - 01/Dec/13

Short-lived but hard crux. Very well protected though.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Cherry Bedford, Robbie

Found it hard to read once around the corner, crack looks alot better from the ground!
rustaldo - Lead dog - 30/Nov/13 with Alex, Kit Perry

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/13 with bwestwood

crux extremely hard to read
ashtond6 - Lead dnf - 10/Nov/13

Gear in after belaying my dad, gear in
JamesTurnbull97 - Lead - 10/Nov/13 with Dave Turnbull

Hidden - 29/Sep/13

Safe as houses but much harder than it looked from the ground! Another one to come back to another day.
madasten - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/13 with Gaz

Gave a coat of lookin at, then tied on t give it a go. Climbed round the lip on to the face, put some gear in, then got pumped, then sat on it.!! Took a few attempts to get the crux move wired, then topped out. Ace route tho, but not sure about low in the grade as the book sez! Will be back wig me man B.. Aarrgghhhh..
gazfellows - Lead - 08/Sep/13 with Billy nic, steff

Mike W - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

Sam Simpson - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Tom Doldon

joesmith - 2nd dog - 16/Jun/13 with tony

Fell on crux on first attempt. Then finished it and Ben seconded. Then I led it clean a bit later. Crux is hard to read onsight. OK once you know the sequence. A great route. Such a classic line.
climberchristy - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Ben Cole

Hidden - Jun/13

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/13

This is not a worm up:-) fell off finished rote, pulled ropes and lead clean
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 19/May/13

had to rest to remove gear that Peter had fallen on. Wouldn't have done it without the rests either way...
bigbobbyking - 2nd dog - 19/May/13 with Peter Hill

marcduhig - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/13 with Richard, Owen

owenhancock22 - TR dnf - 20/Apr/13 with Marc Duhig

Hidden - Lead dog - Apr/13

Managed to fall across the crux therefore skipping it out and then shamelessly aid the rest. E1/ E2 is clearly still another planet for me at the moment.
JHiley - 2nd dog - 27/Oct/12

john lynch - 2nd rpt - 05/Oct/12 with ed luke, adam harrison

Apharri - Lead RP - 05/Oct/12 with John Lynch

Previous lead Oct'95
jshields - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Paul Tretheway

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 16/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/12

Ethan - Lead β - 12/May/12 with Sam

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/May/12

shut-down. v.much learning my trade in the world of crack climbing.
Rick hard Rock - Lead dog - 05/May/12 with steve_yo

pigeonslipper - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

pumped
john lynch - Lead dog - 13/Mar/12 with Lewis Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Started to rain. That one of many reasons I failed. boo
marcduhig - Lead dnf - 28/Oct/11 with Sexy Liz

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead β - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Oct/11

One to come back and get clean. I reckon the guidebooks assessment as easy E2 is fair; gear is great and easy to place. I would recommend it to an E1 climber as one to jump on, but I wouldnt expect them to get the onsight!
Ahab - Lead dog - 16/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - Jul/11

BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/11 with Tom

Still didn't feel soft at the grade! Had rested on it in 4/9.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/11 with Becca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/11

JRae - 2nd - 07/Jun/11 with P Latham

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Jun/11

Was very close to falling off (duff sequence?)but pushed on as the gear was good and just made it :) Not a true on-sight as started the climb before but down climbed due to sticky hot humid conditions and midges .
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 03/May/11 with John Bayliss, Richard Williams

Fran S8 - Lead β - 17/Apr/11

Ass on a plate. Took more than a few goes to work out the crux. Felt similar grade/style as Black Hawk Bastion. As others have said, worth going back to for stab at clean lead.
Dave Foster - Lead - 09/Apr/11 with Robin

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

David Smith - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

highlux - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/10

Went OK
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 21/Sep/10 with Dan McKinlay

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/10

Terrible effort. Very disappointed not to do better on this. Came unstuck moving up where the crack thins.
DavidR - Lead dog - 08/Aug/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

drcorbasisgod - Lead dog - 07/Aug/10 with Mark O'Neill

Dogmusher - 2nd dog - 07/Aug/10 with chris parson

jelaby - Lead dog - 31/Jul/10 with notgnarly

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/10

Rest to get the bloody gear out that was fallen on!
slacky - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/10 with Julie, Ben

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Jun/10

Fell off crux, incredibly greasy today.
mark20 - Lead dnf - 31/May/10

Tez29 - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Ivan

Great climb, lots of good gear and very nice moves through the crux... which got dutifully despatched by an electrifying display of style
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 11/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/10

liamoloughlin - Lead - 28/Apr/10

geddicakes - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/10 with Liam

Had low expectation of success due to poor form/fitness/injuries but went pretty well, so probable softie at E2. V good tho, 3* for sure. Overhung start and arete finish both easier than it looks, gear straight out the top draw, plus a sweet layback crux with tiptoe smearing. Stunning weather that day too.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Gav & Si

Seymore Butt - 2010

TonyF - Lead - 2010

A good route. Will be back to do it properly sometime once I'm fit again.
kingholmesy - Lead dog - 2010 with Brian and Tom Eagle

jimmys - 2nd dog - 17/Oct/09 with remus

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Oct/09

Not hard to do, just hard to read.
jacobjlloyd - 2nd dog - 11/Oct/09 with Felix

feilx - Lead RP - 10/Oct/09 with Jake

Ketu - Lead dog - 27/Sep/09 with Graham, Kirill

could not do the crux
Kirill - 2nd dnf - 27/Sep/09 with Rob Truckle, Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/09 with AJ, michael porter

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/09

Compo - Lead dog - 06/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09

Dropped my wires. Jam, foot up reach. Easy second go :-(
Dave Warburton - Lead - 11/Jul/09 with Franco Cookson

Hidden - 05/Jul/09

Ben1983 - Lead dog - 04/Jul/09

Neat lead by Pete
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 08/Jun/09 with Peter Harris

Hidden - 08/Jun/09

ellie macpherson - Lead dog - 25/May/09 with mike henesey

didnt feel low in the bloody grade, real hard work and lots of it.
Milne - 2nd dog - 10/May/09 with tom allsop

Ben_Bullbridge - 2nd dog - 10/May/09 with Milne

First E2 lead, rested a few times, got there in the end. loved the slappy moves up the arete :)
tallsop - Lead - 10/May/09 with terry

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09

figfour - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with ken

Tom Eagle - 05/Apr/09

Brown - Lead O/S - 2009 with Henry

feilx - Lead dog - 11/Oct/08 with Floris

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Bryony Weathers

HughM - Lead dog - 20/Sep/08 with Shane Norton

Hidden - 2nd RP - 23/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Jun/08

WB - Lead rpt - 18/May/08 with Guy

Nicos - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with rich howels

joe larner - Lead - 10/May/08

Ian Broome - Lead RP - 19/Apr/08 with Al

petellis - Lead dnf - 16/Feb/08

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Pete Ellis

Skell - Lead dog - 10/Feb/08 with Kelvin

dan gibson - 2008

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2008 with dave

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Simon Wren

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/07

very very good - perfect protection. took 3-4 gos to work out crux, worth repeating
ksjs - Lead dog - 14/Jul/07 with goosebump

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Jun/07

still to do clean one day!
Ian Broome - Lead dog - 12/Jun/07 with Matt

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/07

John Roberts (JR) - 10/Jun/07 with Simon Hudson

Rob Kennard - 2007

Pete Graham - 2nd - 2007 with Malcolm Scott

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2007

Ian Broome - Lead dog - 21/Oct/06 with Andy Reeve

Felt tough and sustained...but there's gear by the bucketfull but hard work for E2..(or do i need to stop being a jessie and just pull harder??) Well done Al for flashing it.. :D
loonyclimber - Lead - 08/Oct/06 with Alex

quite tough, good hand jam and thin smears for feet, suprisingly pumpy.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06 with kieth poskitt et al

Boy - 2006

Neil Ireson - Lead - Aug/05 with Guy R

Mark Riley - Lead rpt - May/05 with Dave Ayton

Knocked all my wires out with my foot as I was moving on to the front face & then got pumped getting something else in asap so had to rest on gear
cem - Lead dog - 24/Apr/05 with Miles Butteriss

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Second attempt of day. Gear already in. Tried it in the 90's first.
BruceW - Lead β - 2005 with Becca, Justin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead - 2004

shoulders - Lead O/S - 19/May/02 with tom

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 22/Jul/01 with Ian Pickles

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - Apr/00

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/97

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Sep/97

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/97

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/97

ste_d - Lead O/S - 19/May/97 with mik

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/97 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/97

Mark Riley - 2nd dog - 1997 with Richard Ibberson

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jul/96

ChrisJD - Lead - 13/Jul/96 with LukeS

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/95

bullybones - 1995

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/94 with Simon Coles

robyn1 - 1992

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/91 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - Lead RP - 31/Aug/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/91

Roget - Lead O/S - 20/May/90 with jon

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/89 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/89

Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - Jul/87 with Mick Falzon

shark - Lead - 06/Jun/87

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 17/Apr/87 with Grahame Nicoll

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jul/86

John Marsland - Lead - 20/Oct/85 with George Shaw

Hidden - Lead - 1984

2,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/83

steve L - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/82 with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson

Mark Kemball - Lead - 23/May/81 with Paul Clark

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/80

andy gittins - 1980

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Voting
Total votes cast 158
hard E30 of 56
E30 of 56
easy E34 of 56
hard E29 of 56
E229 of 56
easy E27 of 56
hard E17 of 56
E10 of 56
easy E10 of 56
hard 6a0 of 55
6a0 of 55
easy 6a6 of 55
hard 5c23 of 55
5c23 of 55
easy 5c3 of 55
hard 5b0 of 55
5b0 of 55
easy 5b0 of 55
3 Stars33 of 47
2 Stars12 of 47
1 Star2 of 47
0 Stars0 of 47
Bag of .....0 of 47
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Style of ascent

Lead119 of 188 (63.3%)
Followed42 of 188 (22.3%)
Toproped1 of 188 (0.5%)
Alt Leads2 of 188 (1.1%)
Unknown24 of 188 (12.8%)

'Climbed'65 of 188 (34.6%)
clean O/S47 of 188 (25.0%)
clean β4 of 188 (2.1%)
clean rpt11 of 188 (5.9%)
clean RP8 of 188 (4.3%)
dogged44 of 188 (23.4%)
dnf9 of 188 (4.8%)