Derbyshire > Stanage High Neb >
 
Hearsay Crack* E1 5a

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<< The Knutter
 
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10m. Follow the right-slanting crack to its end and then continue up the bulging wall rightwards on green sloping holds. Protection is poor though it is possible (and sensible) to move left at the break to get good Friends. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 175 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

topped out direct solid at E1
the power - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Paul Hy

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Phil T

metal arms - 2nd - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13

vassy05 - Solo - 01/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/13

chrisbussell - 2nd - 04/Jun/13 with Tim O'Neill

ColinD - 2nd - 04/Jun/13 with DavidS

ColinD - 2nd - 04/Jun/13 with Jo

joemallia - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/13 with Paul Whittaker, Jill Whittaker

bigbobbyking - 2nd - 19/May/13 with Chris Allan, Peter Hill

Nigel Bond - TR - 20/Apr/13 with Bern Hardman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13

Tamati - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13

lcullum7 - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/12 with Mike Mason

woodsy - Lead - 02/Nov/12 with tom

kermit_uk - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Steve Woolass

Dan_Carroll - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/12

Previous solo mid'90s.
jshields - Lead - 22/Jul/12 with Roman Jivkov

jwa - Lead dog - 25/Jun/12 with Peter Hill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12

Ahab - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

Used cams to left, as suggested in EG, prob reduces grade to HVSish... Top's a bit dirty
Oliver Houston - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12

crack is the easy bit - pretty slopey up top!
Woodiee - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with oliwarlow

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Dan Mckinlay - 2012

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 2012

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/11 with John Sealey

jon22 - Lead - 30/Oct/11 with The Bad Cough

Got to the bulge, no cam for the break, went left up the Nutter to finish well pissed off. Ps the weather was f in cold hands like ice no friction.
ffdalton - Lead dnf - 29/Oct/11 with Dean Dalton

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Rosh

Paul1 - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with Mikey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/11

Camalot 5 will just fit the large break out on the left side, number 6 would be bomber..
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with liv_the_div

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/11

Skell - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Jules

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/11

Soft for E1.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

Jim Walton - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Tom Brittan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/11

Awesome, just wish the crack went on for another 200 metres
samsimpson - Solo O/S - 21/May/11

Chris backed off 1/3 up scared/sweaty. Pulled ropes and lead past his gear. Short & sweet.
Alex Thompson - Lead β - 09/Apr/11 with Nick Allen, Dreadlocks Chris

Backed off the lead, stupid because the top half is easy!
willworkforfoodjnr - 2nd RP - 09/Apr/11 with Alex Thompson

Ian Broome - Solo rpt - 29/Mar/11

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - Solo - 2011

APuddy - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Oct/10

stuckonarock - 2nd rpt - 02/Oct/10 with Charles, Karo

CJEFF - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Doctor Bunny

nice, used cams out left as per guide, but probably still E1 for sloping sideways run out.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Jamie

Dunc's mate Pete lead it. On a rope it felt easier than the two HVSs to the left, but the gear doesn't look great.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10

Very rounded at top. Kind of 'winter friction' vs 'being able to feel your hands' trade-off dilemma
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 11/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/10

Jim Malo - TR dog - 09/May/10

gw66 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

PenJD - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/10 with Simon Kincaid

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with Wee man

The Mountain Goat - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with Mark Williams

vanderz - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

joese7en - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10

MRichardson - TR - Apr/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 17/Oct/09

Went to check initial moves in preperation for lead; ended up soloing up until bulge for crux. Got stuck so got a top rope dropped down and completed the route.
shed_hed - TR O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Jake Harrison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/09

Pete Graham - 2nd - 13/Oct/09 with Ben Dorey

Robbie Massey - TR - 04/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/09

Sam W - Lead - 18/Jul/09 with Tom Bide

Wasnt clear whetehr gear and holds could be used on Knutter at the top of the crack they were within reach - with them it must be a soft E1, but without, itwould be really hard - breaks are vry slopey, bulging and at the moment dirty. Good lead by Olly.
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Olly

danm - 2nd - 04/Jun/09

simonp - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Dan Middleton

ellie macpherson - 2nd - 25/May/09 with mike henesey

Ben Sidsaph - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Guy Buckingham

Dave Heaton - Lead - 24/May/09

A Downing - Lead RP - 18/Apr/09 with DJ

deejmonkey - 2nd - 18/Apr/09 with Andy D

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/09

morganator - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Stan Halstead

Hidden - 05/Mar/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Jay

stuckonarock - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Matthew

Jeronimo - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Graeme Hammond

brian watson - 2nd - 27/Sep/08 with scott titt

Hidden - Lead - 14/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/08

duzinga - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Jim and Guido

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/08

Hidden - 10/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

RossT - 2nd - 08/Jun/08 with Guy R

mje1398 - 2nd - 18/May/08 with John M

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Feb/08

Boy - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/07

dicky79 - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Pete

great climb - good low gear and a poor cam higher up, easy climbing though as long as your head is upto it
SGD - Lead - 08/Sep/07 with Jonathan

did not get very far up the crack, must mov e quicker and put gear in where i can rest
Neil Mackenzie - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/07 with Lewis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/07

A perplexing 5a move that completely outfoxed me. Ended up shoving my whole leg into the horizontal off-width to gain any height. Cut to pieces and must have looked very strange!
Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/07 with Clare Curling (My best buddy)

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Jul/07

timharrison - TR O/S - 21/May/07 with Hedley Proctor

Hidden - Solo - 10/May/07

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Ben and Liam

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07

Monk - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Don

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Hammy - 2nd - 02/Mar/07 with Simon McCabe, Steve Hall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2007

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2007 with SteveOc

Hidden - TR O/S - 29/Oct/06

Scary finish on lead
aulda - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Dave S

viking - 2nd - Sep/06 with gareth

Mark Riley - Solo O/S - 28/May/06

arin78 - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/05 with Mark

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/04

Smelly Fox - Lead β - 18/Jul/04 with Slim Beam

Stig - 2nd O/S - 16/Nov/03 with Geraldine Lawless

Bit scarier than I expected for HVS ...
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/03 with Paul G

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Jul/03

Ropeboy - Solo - 26/Mar/03

cem - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/03 with Graham Dolman

PenJD - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/02 with Jon Ascroft

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 04/May/02 with Neil Binns

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 14/Feb/01 with Viv

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

Hidden - 2000

Coel Hellier - Lead - 1999

Done the crack several times but not sure whether I ever finished direct - might have always joined the Knutter
Chris the Tall - Solo O/S - Sep/98

Trobbo - Lead - 25/Jul/98 with john blower

babymoac - 21/Jun/98

Pete Nugent - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/97

iskra2000 - Lead - 13/Oct/96 with Dan Bordoley

John Marsland - 2nd - 20/Apr/96 with Dave Mould

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 08/Oct/95 with Martin Veale

Scott McRae - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/95 with Johnny boy

Rich Kirby - Lead - 13/May/95 with Hugh

Hidden - Solo rpt - 23/Apr/95

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/95 with Richard Bradbury

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/93

leathers - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/93 with Charlotte Evans

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/93

Andy Say - Solo - 28/Jun/92

Roget - Solo O/S - 02/Aug/91

steve taylor - Solo - Jul/90 with stumpy

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 30/Oct/88

sadams - Solo - Sep/87 with Mark Bonham

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jul/87

stp - Solo O/S - 17/Nov/85

John Marsland - Solo - 18/May/85

Tom V - 1985

babymoac - 24/Jan/81

Mark Kemball - Solo - 17/Jun/79

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jun/79

mikej - Solo - 01/Apr/73 with Geoff Williams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, payeo20, Neil Mackenzie

Voting
Total votes cast 141
hard E20 of 49
E20 of 49
easy E20 of 49
hard E10 of 49
E123 of 49
easy E112 of 49
hard HVS14 of 49
HVS0 of 49
easy HVS0 of 49
hard 5b0 of 48
5b1 of 48
easy 5b6 of 48
hard 5a5 of 48
5a36 of 48
easy 5a0 of 48
hard 4c0 of 48
4c0 of 48
easy 4c0 of 48
3 Stars0 of 44
2 Stars5 of 44
1 Star37 of 44
0 Stars2 of 44
Bag of .....0 of 44
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Style of ascent

Soloed28 of 175 (16.0%)
Lead73 of 175 (41.7%)
Followed53 of 175 (30.3%)
Toproped7 of 175 (4.0%)
Unknown14 of 175 (8.0%)

'Climbed'71 of 175 (40.6%)
clean O/S88 of 175 (50.3%)
clean β2 of 175 (1.1%)
clean rpt6 of 175 (3.4%)
clean RP2 of 175 (1.1%)
dogged2 of 175 (1.1%)
dnf2 of 175 (1.1%)
Unknown2 of 175 (1.1%)