Rockfax Description
Follow the right-slanting crack to its end and then continue up the bulging wall rightwards on green sloping holds. Protection is poor though it is possible (and sensible) to move left at the break to get good cams. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List.

Hidden 06/Sep -
Gambit 01/Sep 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug Lead
Droyd 27/Jun Lead O/S

Thought I was doing The Knutter, whoops.

with Fredrik Hansson
Tjogge 27/Jun 2nd
with David Boothroyd
andrzej kierzek 15/May Lead dnf

Finished the crack. The horizontal break was too wide for cams that I had on me. Sadly, did not take m y biggest cam. Moved to the left and exited through the Knutter.

with Paul Davies
daviesp2 15/May 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr 2nd
David Sherratt 23/Apr Lead
David Sherratt 23/Apr Lead
Rob Davies 17/Apr TR

Neil backed off lead. Cam 6 would protect top moves.

Dervey 10/Apr Lead O/S
with Nicola, Rich
Richard Alderton 10/Apr 2nd
with Nic Ola, Liam
nic_nac_doodle 10/Apr 2nd
with Liam
Andy Moles 05/Apr Solo
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 28/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 03/Oct/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd
bencole 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Dad
Gudge 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Best route of the day - really enjoyed this! Not that badly protected either.

Pero 10/Jun/15 TR
ralphio 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Cam out left as per guidebook

with Coel
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/May/15 AltLd
with Julian M
mike8331 26/Apr/15 Lead
shell145 18/Apr/15 TR dog
with Ursula
cdpuk 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/14 2nd
Lenny 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
rurp 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Three big friends in shallow placements at the top

with ben rowland, bill farmer
Brian Rodgers 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ian Wyatt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
cragtyke 18/May/14 2nd
with john g
Hidden 10/May/14 Lead
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead
WB 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden 27/Apr/14 2nd
the power 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S

topped out direct solid at E1

with Paul Hy
Paul Hy 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Phil T
metal arms 09/Mar/14 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
vassy05 01/Sep/13 Solo
LucasHarazin 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd
chrisbussell 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
ColinD 04/Jun/13 2nd
with DavidS
ColinD 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Jo
joemallia 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Paul Whittaker, Jill Whittaker
bigbobbyking 19/May/13 2nd
with Chris Allan, Peter Hill
Nigel Bond 20/Apr/13 TR
with Bern Hardman
RM199 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Tamati 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
lcullum7 10/Nov/12 2nd O/S
woodsy 02/Nov/12 Lead
with tom
kermit_uk 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Steve Woolass
Dan_Carroll 15/Sep/12 Solo O/S
jshields 22/Jul/12 Lead

Previous solo mid'90s.

with Roman Jivkov
jwa 25/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Peter Hill
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mark20 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Ahab 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Used cams to left, as suggested in EG, prob reduces grade to HVSish... Top's a bit dirty

Hidden 06/May/12 2nd O/S
Woodiee 06/May/12 2nd O/S

crack is the easy bit - pretty slopey up top!

Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
tebs 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Adequately protected and much easier than the neighbouring HVSs

Hidden ??/2012 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
deacondeacon ??/2012 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
jon22 30/Oct/11 Lead
ffdalton 29/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Got to the bulge, no cam for the break, went left up the Nutter to finish well pissed off. Ps the weather was f in cold hands like ice no friction.

with Dean Dalton
Matt Cooke 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Paul1 16/Oct/11 2nd
with Mikey
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
fatbuoybazza 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Camalot 5 will just fit the large break out on the left side, number 6 would be bomber..

Somerset swede basher 02/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Skell 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
Neil R 23/Jul/11 2nd
with John
Brannock 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Soft for E1.

Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Sam Simpson 21/May/11 Solo O/S

Awesome, just wish the crack went on for another 200 metres

Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead β
willworkforfoodjnr 09/Apr/11 2nd RP

Backed off the lead, stupid because the top half is easy!

Ian Broome 29/Mar/11 Solo rpt
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Solo
APuddy 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/10 Solo O/S
stuckonarock 02/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Charles, Karo
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Jamie
adam carless 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Dunc's mate Pete lead it. On a rope it felt easier than the two HVSs to the left, but the gear doesn't look great.

Cragrat Rich 11/May/10 Lead O/S

Very rounded at top. Kind of 'winter friction' vs 'being able to feel your hands' trade-off dilemma

Hidden 11/May/10 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 09/May/10 TR dog
gw66 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
PenJD 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
disturbed_one51 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Wee man
The Mountain Goat 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 24/Apr/10 2nd
vanderz 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
joese7en 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
MRichardson ?/Apr/10 TR
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Solo O/S
shed_hed 17/Oct/09 TR O/S

Went to check initial moves in preperation for lead; ended up soloing up until bulge for crux. Got stuck so got a top rope dropped down and completed the route.

with Jake Harrison
Hidden 13/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 13/Oct/09 2nd
Robbie Massey 04/Oct/09 TR
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead
Bolehillbilly 14/Aug/09 Lead
with Kath
Sam W 18/Jul/09 Lead
Si dH 27/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Wasnt clear whetehr gear and holds could be used on Knutter at the top of the crack they were within reach - with them it must be a soft E1, but without, itwould be really hard - breaks are vry slopey, bulging and at the moment dirty. Good lead by Olly.

with Olly
Hidden 04/Jun/09 2nd
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Middleton
ellie macpherson 25/May/09 2nd
with mike henesey
Ben Sidsaph 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
Dave Heaton 24/May/09 Lead
A Downing 18/Apr/09 Lead RP
with DJ
deejmonkey 18/Apr/09 2nd
with Andy D
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd
morganator 29/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Stan Halstead
Hidden 05/Mar/09 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Graeme Hammond 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Jay
stuckonarock 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Matthew
Jeronimo 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
brian watson 27/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead rpt
duzinga 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Jim and Guido
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/08 -
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
RossT 08/Jun/08 2nd
with Guy R
mje1398 18/May/08 2nd
with John M
Hidden 16/Feb/08 2nd
Boy ??/2008 -
Hidden 04/Oct/07 Lead O/S
dicky79 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Pete
SGD 08/Sep/07 Lead

great climb - good low gear and a poor cam higher up, easy climbing though as long as your head is upto it

with Jonathan
Neil Mackenzie 01/Sep/07 Lead dnf

did not get very far up the crack, must mov e quicker and put gear in where i can rest

with Lewis
Hidden 30/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Anthony Allsopp 30/Aug/07 Lead O/S

A perplexing 5a move that completely outfoxed me. Ended up shoving my whole leg into the horizontal off-width to gain any height. Cut to pieces and must have looked very strange!

with Clare Curling (My best buddy)
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Solo O/S
timharrison 21/May/07 TR O/S
Hidden 10/May/07 Solo
Joe Costello 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ben and Liam
dan gibson 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Monk 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Don
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hammy 02/Mar/07 2nd
with Simon McCabe, Steve Hall
Hidden ??/2007 2nd O/S
kingholmesy ??/2007 Lead O/S
with SteveOc
Hidden 29/Oct/06 TR O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/06 Lead
aulda 10/Sep/06 2nd O/S

Scary finish on lead

with Dave S
viking ?/Sep/06 2nd
with gareth
dominic lee ?/Jun/06 Solo
Mark Riley 28/May/06 Solo O/S
arin78 06/Jun/05 2nd O/S
with Mark
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 31/Jul/04 Solo O/S
Smelly Fox 18/Jul/04 Lead β
with Slim Beam
Stig 16/Nov/03 2nd O/S
with Geraldine Lawless
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead
Ropeboy 26/Mar/03 Solo
cem 16/Mar/03 2nd
Chris Reid 15/Mar/03 Lead O/S
PenJD 16/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Jon Ascroft
chris sm 04/May/02 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/May/02 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 14/Feb/01 -
with Viv
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Martin Bennett 10/Jul/99 -
with Dave Cundy, Phil
Coel Hellier ??/1999 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/98 Solo O/S

Done the crack several times but not sure whether I ever finished direct - might have always joined the Knutter

Trobbo 25/Jul/98 Lead
with john blower
babymoac 21/Jun/98 -
Pete Nugent 13/Apr/97 Lead O/S
iskra2000 13/Oct/96 Lead
with Dan Bordoley
John Marsland 20/Apr/96 2nd
with Dave Mould
Chris Ellis 08/Oct/95 2nd
with Martin Veale
Scott McRae 13/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Johnny boy
Rich Kirby 13/May/95 Lead
with Hugh
Hidden 23/Apr/95 Solo rpt
Daniel Wrightson 02/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Richard Bradbury
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead


Hidden 24/Oct/93 Lead O/S
D Tempest 10/Oct/93 Solo
with Rick
leathers 06/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Evans
The Reaper 13/May/93 TR O/S


Mick King 09/May/93 Solo
Hidden 03/May/93 Lead
andybirtwistle 24/Jul/92 Lead
Andy Say 28/Jun/92 Solo
Roget 02/Aug/91 Solo O/S
steve taylor ?/Jul/90 Solo
with stumpy
Rob Davies 17/Apr/89 Lead

Avoided rounded finish

with Angus McLean, Mick Moss
goi.ashmore 30/Oct/88 Solo O/S
sadams ?/Sep/87 Solo
with Mark Bonham
Hidden ?/Jul/87 Solo O/S
stp 17/Nov/85 Solo O/S
John Marsland 18/May/85 Solo
Tom V ??/1985 -
babymoac 24/Jan/81 -
Mark Kemball 17/Jun/79 Solo
Hidden ?/Jun/79 Solo O/S
mikej 01/Apr/73 Solo
with Geoff Williams
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 55
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set