The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
A reasonable start and finish are linked by some poor rock and a lot of vegetation in the upper half of the first pitch.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb the crack in the left wall of the slabby groove to bulges, then traverse left to easier rock. Graze up the rib and grotty terrain to a belay below cleaner rock. A tough pitch.
Direct Start, E2 5c - climb the vegetated crack to the left.
2) 5a, 14m. Trend left up the wall to a niche, then head up and slightly leftwards to belay in the cave.
3) 4c, 15m. Finish leftwards, as for West Wall Climb. © Rockfax
FA. Des Hadlum G.Smith (3 points) 1968.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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GeorgT | 18 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: WARNING: The first 15 metres of pitch 1 is climbed on rock. The rest of pitch one is a series of loose mud ledges with very little gear placements and solid ground to hold onto or stand on. Shame, as pitches 2 and 3 are climbable and enjoyable. Consider whether they are worth navigating loose rock and mud to access however. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: WARNING: The first 15 metres of pitch 1 is climbed on rock. The rest of pitch one is a series of loose mud ledges with very little gear placements and solid ground to hold onto or stand on. Shame, as pitches 2 and 3 are climbable and enjoyable. Consider whether they are worth navigating loose rock and mud to access however. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Beeston Tor)