The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
From near the start of Central Wall, climb rightwards to enter the shallow left-trending groove and follow it to where it fizzles out. Make difficult moves leftwards across the wall to reach easier ground. Go direct to the abseil point or right to the fixed belay on Arachno? No!. © Rockfax
FA. G.Smith, Nat Allen, B Metcalfe (5 points) 1968.
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)