The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
More roof work - not as wide as Relax and Swing, but harder.
1) 6b, 12m. The original starting boulder has moved, so combined human tactics are required to reach the first fingerlocks in the roof seam. Battle it out into the corner above, then traverse right just below the next roof to a crack. Strenuously pass the roof to gain the left-hand groove. Belay.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the groove, past the faultline, to a roof. Move out right into a short exit groove. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Snell, K.Knight 19.9.1976. FFA. Pete Oxley, Steve Williams 7.6.1987.
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Blackers Hole)