Rockfax Description
A short but challenging route with spaced bolts. Start as for Footuk then branch right under the overhangs.
1) VII, 30m. Climb direct as for Footuk, then traverse right for a few metres to the line of bolts of the Variante via col Vento. Pull through a stiff overhang to a stance above.
2) VII+, 30m. Climb direct then move right to reach the lower-off from Variante via col Vento (optional belay). Continue direct with steep vertical climbing to a lower-off. It is possible to lower off here rather than continuing to the summit.
3) V, 30m. To continue to the summit, traverse right then climb diagonally right to join the final two pitches of Via Myriam. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
P1 - 6b+, P2 - 6c+
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Grade: VII+ ***
(Marmolada)