Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
The vegetated bay has a couple of decent routes. The first tackles the open groove/chimney at the bottom of a long slab that leads down from the Merlin headwall.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the left side of the groove to reach a ramp. Go up here to a tree belay in a groove.
2) 5c, 18m. Move onto the ramp and up to a pedestal just left of a groove heading up the steep wall. Move up and left to climb the crack rightwards to a 'Damoclean' overlap (you'll know what this is when you get there). Pull over right into a groove and climb this to a ledge belay on the edge of the buttress.
3) 5a, 15m. Move up and right to a crack, and then traverse a line of weakness across the wall to gain the main corner.
4) 5c, 12m. Climb the left-hand corner with difficulty. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The vegetated bay has a couple of decent routes. The first tackles the open groove/chimney at the bottom of a long slab that leads down from the Merlin headwall.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the left side of the groove to reach a ramp. Go up here to a tree belay in a groove.
2) 5c, 18m. Move onto the ramp and up to a pedestal just left of a groove heading up the steep wall. Move up and left to climb the crack rightwards to a Damoclean overlap (you'll know what this is when you get there). Pull over right into a groove and climb this to a ledge belay on the edge of the buttress.
3) 5a, 15m. Move up and right to a crack, and then traverse a line of weakness across the wall to gain the main corner.
4) 5c, 12m. Climb the left-hand corner with difficulty.
Ticklists
Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Tremadog 2018/2019
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LucaC | 13 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The belay marked at the top of p2 on the rockfax topo is wrong (unless you like single wire belays). Carry on climbing up the wall for another 5m to a selection of cracked blocks and a hanging stance on a small ledge level with the start of the p3 traverse. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The belay marked at the top of p2 on the rockfax topo is wrong (unless you like single wire belays). Carry on climbing up the wall for another 5m to a selection of cracked blocks and a hanging stance on a small ledge level with the start of the p3 traverse. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Shrike
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))