UKC

Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a  seasonal restriction "....  due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT  that they  "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying". 

No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st. 

Rockfax Description
Climb the rightward trending groove to a light brown stain below a small overlap. Traverse out left above this to finish past another small overlap. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb a groove running rightwards to a small overlap. Traverse left above the overlap to a small pitted slab. Follow via another overlap to the top

J talbot 01/Jan/1963.

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Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 6
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Under Milk Wood

Grade: VS 4a ***
(Three Cliffs Bay)

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