Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
The yellow wall high on the crag.
1) 6a, 24m. Follow Enigma to where its bulging groove fades and move right to a belay ledge under the yellow wall.
2) 6b, 12m. Move out right (peg) to the arete and climb its left wall to another peg. Regain the arete and climb to a good ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 12m. The arete above finishing on the left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) 6a, 24m. Follow Enigma to a large ledge in the groove just left of the arête.
2) 6b, 12m. Move right onto the wall, PR, swing onto the arête and climb the wall left of the arête (peg runner), then move back onto the arête which leads to a ledge, PB.
3) 5b, 12m. Climb straight up the arête above. Exit left to finish.
M.Crocker, M.Ward 31/Aug/1986.
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)