Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
The stunning thin crack in the left arete of the Skylark groove. Begin 1m right of Winter Warmer and make hard moves up a thin crack to gain the left end of the Skylark roof (good thread). Pull over as for Skylark and move up right to the base of the groove. Hand traverse left along a break to gain the arete and climb this using a thin crack via sustained moves to reach a good break and junction with Skylark. Finish as for Skylark. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The route climbs the stunningly obvious thin crack in the left arête of the Skylark groove. Start 1m right of Winter Warmer and make hard moves up a thin crack to gain the left end of the Skylark roof (good thread). Pull over as for Skylark and move up right to the base of the groove, hand traverse left along a break to gain the arête and climb this using a thin crack with sustained moves to reach a good break and junction with Skylark/Muppet Show. Finish as for Skylark, taking care with the loose rock.
Martyn Richards, Andy Sharp 30/Aug/2014.
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)