Rockfax Description
Slight but worth doing for the situation. Start from the promontory, at the base of the abseil, where the promontory abuts the crag at a large blunt spike.
1) 5b, 37m. Make a frightening traverse left from the spike to a groove that leads up to a tiny ledge. Climb the left arete of the groove above to another ledge. Shuffle left and head up and left past a peg to a detached flake. Gain the top of the flake by a semi-mantel move. Climb a line of weakness up and right to a small overlap. Step right into a niche below a steep crack. Follow the crack to a good ledge. Belay further back on a grassy ramp.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up the grassy ramp to the shoulder and a junction with Deygo. Move up a slab rightwards to gain a groove and finish up this. © Rockfax
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , North Wales Rock Graded List , The Road to Shibboleth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)