Rockfax Description
The direct version is slightly harder. Start at the triangular niche.
1) 4c, 32m. Move left along the easy traverse and, near its end, head directly up to a break-line and traverse this to a crack. Climb the crack direct to below the roof, and follow Lighthouse Arete to the belay on a ledge.
2) 4a, 35m. As for Lighthouse Arete P3. © Rockfax
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Emile.swain | 3 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: My first sea cliff climb. Abb’d off to the triangular niche following a convenient edge at an angle to descend on the left side of another group. Easy to see the 1st pitch route from the start.. loverly climb, lots of places to rest and place gear, A very easy VS. Looks a little steep but we’ll protected. 2nd pitch I think we took an alternate route, at the belay felt like we should have ascended directly up, but we went left instead . Which incidentally was chossy wet garbage slab. Sometimes hard to tell from the image and guide description. Awesome climb, | ||
Show beta
βeta: My first sea cliff climb. Abb’d off to the triangular niche following a convenient edge at an angle to descend on the left side of another group. Easy to see the 1st pitch route from the start.. loverly climb, lots of places to rest and place gear, A very easy VS. Looks a little steep but we’ll protected. 2nd pitch I think we took an alternate route, at the belay felt like we should have ascended directly up, but we went left instead . Which incidentally was chossy wet garbage slab. Sometimes hard to tell from the image and guide description. Awesome climb, |
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Kasia Piatek | 13 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hundreds of birds around. Many sat below the crux roof, the ledge covered in fish smelling bird guano, other than that, an epic route, well protected, second pitch more like a scramble with some loose rock. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Hundreds of birds around. Many sat below the crux roof, the ledge covered in fish smelling bird guano, other than that, an epic route, well protected, second pitch more like a scramble with some loose rock. |
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Crofty | 28 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good climbing, Ewan didn't like the overhang at the start of P2, so I ended up leading both pitches. Only stopped raining as we drove past Bangor and only had a couple of drops fall while on Holyhead. M62 had cars with water up to number plates on slip road at Oldham!!! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good climbing, Ewan didn't like the overhang at the start of P2, so I ended up leading both pitches. Only stopped raining as we drove past Bangor and only had a couple of drops fall while on Holyhead. M62 had cars with water up to number plates on slip road at Oldham!!! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Smurf Zawn)