This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
This route is best known as a finish to Heart of Darkness but it does have a reasonable 1st pitch. Abseil to the base of Diedre Sud.
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse right for 5m then climb up steeply to reach a shallow corner. Follow it to a small ledge on the left. Continue over a bulge, and the groove above, to reach the line of breaks. Move up to another break and traverse right to belay on a ledge.
2) 5b, 18m. Move rightwards up a flake to gain the fine wide crack which leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin, J.Greenland 11/Aug/1971.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Tony Holdsworth | 17 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: E1 without a doubt. A HVS leader would be have a pretty torrid time of it on P2. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: E1 without a doubt. A HVS leader would be have a pretty torrid time of it on P2. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stennis Head)