UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the well-named fierce left-hand crack by finger-jamming, then layback the cluster of cracks above, usually with a wobble. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Crew 1962.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jon Greengrass 6 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: ???? that just about sums up the approach to this route. I'm glad i didn't try and lead it but hey if you can get more than a few feet of the ground you'll find the rest of the route ok.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ???? that just about sums up the approach to this route. I'm glad i didn't try and lead it but hey if you can get more than a few feet of the ground you'll find the rest of the route ok.
johncoxmysteriously 29 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: One of the easiest HVSs on the edge. What's going on?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the easiest HVSs on the edge. What's going on?

Logged Ascents

225 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 41
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Link

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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