crap bolts crap pegs and crap crap the bolts where a 1/4 inch by parba and hand drilled with a star drill took about 5 maby 10 min to place one

Yeah, all the way. Belays too, as I remember!

Sorry Mr Crapper - but you are talking from your bottom - I know too well how these were placed and yes they were 1/4" bolts interspersed with 3/8" coach bolts for stoppers - but each one took 20 to 30 minutes to drill and fix by hand over over several weekends. I've a £1 waiting for each one you can drill in 10 minutes!! Then try 6 or eight in a row with a star drill!!
It's a lot different now with sticky boots and lightweight crabs. This was done in big boots and quite heavy gear.
Please do not disparage the actions of the men who led the way into some of this then uncharted territory. Try London wall sometime and then reflect on what other doors the 'dangle and wack brigade' opened for you.

Actually CB, Brian and I are both old enough to know exactly what you are talking about. Neither of is criticising anyone, and I for one have hand drilled many bolts. It's a fact though, that the state of the bolts on the Superdirect when this photo was taken, was terrible. I've free climbed London Wall and other Millstone cracks and totally agree with you.

I think you scared CB off, Jon! I remember doing the first pitch of this (second) with my heart in my mouth in awe of Dave Awbery leading it. It took us so long we did the full ~130 ft ab of the HUGE nest of tat at the first belay in the twilight. This must have been spring 1972, I think. Quite character-building. Should be a pic appearing in my gallery... An impressive job by the initial ascensionists.

Well took a look at this again as it's now exactly 50 years since this was first climbed. So not scared off ..just didn't know there were any replies..
Truth be told yes the first pitch was always hsiry & scary.. that pitch was bolted by person or persons unknown previoulsly and was in a hairy state when we first climbed it having mistaken it for the start of the direct route, and it finished level with the halfway ledges. When later forcing the Superdirect to the top we had to decide what to do with the 'tat' that was already there. Seemed stupid to just add more bolts and the rock isn't great in some places either so a minimal number of new bolts were placed with hefty 'stopper' coach bolts placed every 15' or so depending on the rock. Myself and Fritz were responsible in their entirety for the top wall bolts.
These were of course mild steel bolts..stainless steel was still in the unobtanium category.. that said..I doubt we could have afforded to buy stainless bolts either..
Cheers..Klem

I did think this was the Superdirect, but the black streak below Paul looks identical to that on the photos of the Directissima.