I'm here for the next few weeks. Looking to climb during week nights Mon - Thurs. Currently leading 6b+. Anybody fancy climbing for a few weeks?
I'm looking for a climbing partner at this wall as mine has disappeared to Prague :-( Ideally Wednesday evenings from about 7pm, possibly some Tuesday evenings.
I can lead climb. At the moment climbing up to about 6b+. I can do a pickup from Leamington if you need a lift.
Thanks for looking.
Excellant venue! Easily the best ive been too (not as many as i'd like but a few). 3/4 of the 'lead' room is resin surfaces with lots of features. the remaining 1/4 is plyboard. A lot of climbing for everybody here!! You will not regret a visit here, especially if its quiet!
They have also just added a new Bendcrete wall opposite the door to replace the small training wall that was there. 2 of the routes are top roped at the moment and there is another 6ish that are for lead climbing.
The best kept wall I've seen - holds cleaned regularly and new routes being put up several times a week. Some very interesting routes are always around and there's a dedicated group of staff and climbing club execs. Can get busy during club nights: Tues 4.30-6.30, Weds 12.30-2.30, Thurs 4.30-6.30, but then there're more people to climb with and get tips from!:-D
with reference to merlin and maillons- there is no "industry standard" with regard to the positioning of the "gate/screw" on the maillon-they are designed to take the load on their longitudinal axis like a krab-this has been checked with both bendcrete and the maillon manufacturers.
the up or down gate position is not vital to their strength and nor will it alter the chances of the gate/screw opening under use as long as they are tightened and this is checked every time we route set and on specific safety checks every 3 months .by all means report if you suspect one is not tight but the "hang position" is not intrinsic to their performance.
We have now noticed that all of the Maillons at the lower offs are on upside down and are starting to undo with constant vibration. This has been mentioned but staff don't seem bothered. Maybe they will when there is an accident!!
Beware of stupid boulder problem starts before the first clip! Also sandbagging is becomming an issue - some 6b/6b+ routes are easier than the 5's. This goes across the board with very little consistency in grading strategy
Excellent well maintained wall
routes and holds changed regularly,
many routes are well thought out.
It is a shame that other walls in the area seem to find it acceptable to continue with polished holds and changing routes infrequently.
However this wall does get very busy during week nights.