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Crag Notes: Stepping Forth  © Anna Fleming

Article Crag Notes: Stepping Forth

We park at the lighthouse and slither down to the tide line. Waves break onto glistening black rocks. The tide is on the ebb. The sky is grey, the water like steel and a cold wind blows down the Firth of Forth. It is the 4th January: we have come to Aberdour to kick start the new trad season. I'm glad I wore so many layers.

Stats of the Decade Collage  © UKC Articles

2010-2019 - The UKC Climbing Decade in Numbers

Xtreme Scenario: A study on the aesthetics of the technical equipment used in climbing.  © Tomorrow Bureau
Xtreme Scenario: A study on the aesthetics of the technical equipment used in climbing.  © Tomorrow Bureau

Xtreme Scenario: Outdoor Gear ASMR?

Gear geeks be warned: these videos might get you hot under the harness. Digital design studio Tomorrow Bureau recently released a two-part film in which climbing gear and outdoor equipment appear in computer generated graphics, with spine-tingling sound...

News of the decade: 2015-2019.  © UKC Articles
News of the decade: 2015-2019.  © UKC Articles

Defining a Decade - Climbing News of the 2010s (Part 2)

The latter half of the 2010s brought 9c, 9A and new horizons in women's climbing. In January 2015, online engagement with climbing-related searches had grown by 69% from January 2014 thanks to Dawn Wall mania, while searches related to...

Decade Montage 2010-2014  © UKC
Decade Montage 2010-2014  © UKC

Defining a Decade - Climbing News of the 2010s (Part 1)

Looking back at the start of the decade, the climbing world was a very different place. Adam Ondra was...

Climbing into 2020.  © Natalie Berry
Climbing into 2020.  © Natalie Berry

10 Ways to be a Better Climber in 2020

2020: an Olympic year in which Sport Climbing will make its big debut. Not everyone can become an Olympian, but there's...

Darkinbad the Brightdayler.  © Adam Russell
Darkinbad the Brightdayler.  © Adam Russell

Darkinbad the Brightdayler

Andy Moles weaves a story of reading and climbing a classic book and line... Have you read Ulysses? I studied Ulysses, by...


Groups enjoying the easily accessible ice cragging on the Lillaz Cascata.  © Steve Broadbent

Cogne – Icefall climbing in the Italian Alps

The small resort of Cogne sits at 1500 metres above sea level, on the edge of the Gran Paradiso National Park in northwest Italy. As well as being the cross-country skiing capital of Aosta, with over 70 kilometres of ski trails, Cogne is one of th...

Steve on Malovista pitch 4.  © Pat Littlejohn
Steve on Malovista pitch 4.  © Pat Littlejohn

Trad Climbing on Mallorca

Mallorca is an island with high limestone mountains and massive sea cliffs. Traditional climbing on Mallorca goes back a very long way. It mostly took place in the mountains, which are like the Eastern Alps on a smaller scale, but unlike the Alps they can...

Crag Notes: An Eve on Strange Midland Stones (1998 – 2019)  © Nikki Clayton
Crag Notes: An Eve on Strange Midland Stones (1998 – 2019)  © Nikki Clayton

Crag Notes: An Eve on Strange Midland Stones (1998 – 2019)

In Crag Notes this month, Mark Goodwin looks at one of Britain's least likely rock pastures: Leicestershire. Beacon Hill sprouts from from a hilltop in an otherwise flat, rural and distinctly un-rocky county. It's vista above the...

Crag Notes - A Grey Seals Memory  © Nick Bullock
Crag Notes - A Grey Seals Memory  © Nick Bullock

Crag Notes: A Grey Seal's Memory

In this month's Crag Note Nick Bullock takes time to reacquaint himself with North Stack Gogarth, a crag he's shared an intimate...

Cities, seas and sit starts.  © Simon Slater
Cities, seas and sit starts.  © Simon Slater

Helsinki Bouldering

Pete Edwards shares the beta on urban bouldering spots in and around Helsinki, Finland... Climbing on a city break these...

Lenin Peak, North Face: Standard route ascends middle of glacier then trends right and goes on to right ridge line via Camp 1.  © JSTaylor
Lenin Peak, North Face: Standard route ascends middle of glacier then trends right and goes on to right ridge line via Camp 1.  © JSTaylor

Lenin Peak 7,134m - The World's easiest Seven Thousander?

Lenin Peak, which sits on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, is widely cited as the...

Anyone keen for Albarracin now? ;o)  © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH
Anyone keen for Albarracin now? ;o)  © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH

Albarracin: Spanish Sandstone Bouldering

Albarracin is an extremely popular bouldering destination in eastern Spain. Easily accessible, abundant in low...


Improve your movement  © Nick Brown - UKC

Neil Gresham Technique and Training Improve Your Movement

Neil Gresham examines movement in climbing and expands on how to improve one of the most important aspects of climbing.

Lock Off Training - Greg Boswell  © UKC
Lock Off Training - Greg Boswell  © UKC

Preparing for Winter - Greg Boswell Rab: Preparing for Winter - Lock Off Training

In this episode, Greg discusses the importance of training lock offs, which you regularly perform outside when reaching up for holds and placing gear.

Greg Boswell - Ice Axe Pulls  © UKC
Greg Boswell - Ice Axe Pulls  © UKC

Preparing for Winter - Greg Boswell Rab: Preparing for Winter - Ice Axe Pulls

Greg Boswell takes us through his tips for getting ready for winter climbing. In this episode, Greg talks about the importance of replicating similar movements to those that you find outside, specifically locking off on ice axes.

Preparing for Winter = Circuit Training  © UKC
Preparing for Winter = Circuit Training  © UKC

Preparing for Winter - Greg Boswell Circuit Training

Greg Boswell takes us through his tips for getting ready for winter climbing. In this episode, he discusses the importance of circuit training and gives some advice on how to vary your training; from replicating time spent on a climb to the importance of core strength.

Tess tethered at Jerry's Roof, Llanberis Pass.  © Pete Edwards
Tess tethered at Jerry's Roof, Llanberis Pass.  © Pete Edwards

Who Let the Dogs Out: How to be a Responsible Crag Dog Owner

I used to have a theory in the first few years of my climbing career: if you want to climb hard, get a dog. Look back on those climbing videos of old and check out how many of them featured a crag dog and there are loads: Hard...

Traverses can be a valuable tool for spotting basic footwork or body position errors, while keeping things fun.  © Ari Schneider

Coaching Kids - 7 ways 7 Year Olds Learn to Climb

To avoid locking off on overhanging walls, practice twisting in (either by stepping through and using your outside edge, or doi  © Nick Brown - UKC

Neil Gresham Technique and Training Posture in Climbing

Tim Neill on Directes des Capucines  © Calum Muskett

altitude and acclimatisation High Altitude and Acclimatisation Part 4 - Training and Preparation for High-Altitude

A typical visit to a sport crag.  © Adam Perrett

Sport Climbing 10 Things to Do at a Sport Crag


Paul Cox on Right Eliminate, Curbar  © Mike Hutton

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Curbar

Marmot Photography Awards 2018  © UKC

Photo Awards Marmot Photography Awards 2018

Jack Lawdedge on Trail of Dreams E4 6A  © Mike Hutton

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Rhoscolyn

James Ibbertson on The Wall of Horrors, Almscliff  © Mike Hutton

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Almscliff


El Portrero Chico  © Jacob Roman

El Potrero Chico - Multi-pitch Sport Climbing in Mexico

'The idea of going to El Potrero Chico, Mexico was agreed on. I got in touch with Peter to say I was going to be in North America between February and March. Wanting sunshine and multi-pitch sport climbing El Portrero kept coming up in discussions...

Big exposure on Riso Patron Sur.  © Silvan Schüpbach
Big exposure on Riso Patron Sur.  © Silvan Schüpbach

Expedition Riso Patron Sur

In February/March 2018, Matteo Della Bordella (ITA) and Silvan Schüpbach (SUI) climbed the Riso Patron Sur in Chile, establishing King Kong (900m, M7+, 90°). They sent in the following report.

Benno on pitch 9 of Alexandra Supernova.  © Benno Wagner
Benno on pitch 9 of Alexandra Supernova.  © Benno Wagner

New Multi-Pitch in Kyrgyzstan - Alexandra Supernova

"Kyrgyzstan! Wow! Where is that? Can you climb there?" Almost everyone asks me this whenever I start to tell the story of my last summer-holiday. "Yes, you can!" Kyrgyzstan is the home of the Pamir-Alai-Mountains. There are many...

The team on the summit  © GMHM
The team on the summit  © GMHM

New French Route on Baffin Island

In May, a team from the Chamonix-based GMHM (the French mountain military) opened a new route on Baffin Island, Canada....

Ciaran on approach  © John Proctor
Ciaran on approach  © John Proctor

Jiptik Valley 2016

In July of this year, Robert Taylor, John Proctor, Ciaran Mullan and Phil Dawson headed to the Jiptik valley in Southeast Kyrgyzstan....

Polar Daze on Mount Hannes  © Paul Seabrook
Polar Daze on Mount Hannes  © Paul Seabrook

Greenland - New Peaks, New Routes

Can I commit to a trip to Greenland this summer? Can I commit quickly? Can I commit now!? A personal account of...

Delicate granite slab climbing on The Bad Man of Bodie  © Wil Treasure
Delicate granite slab climbing on The Bad Man of Bodie  © Wil Treasure

The Bad Man from Bodie - Greenland New Routing

Wil Treasure and Duncan Barrack share a trip report from Greenland's Tasermiut Fjord, where they...


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