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ARTICLE: The Natural

The Natural

Mick Ward shares a fictional story of a talented female climber, whose course was altered by the dark side of 1960/70s hedonism... "She's a natural, a complete natural… the best climber I've ever seen."

Perfect Partners #15: Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall

Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, better known as the Wide Boyz are one of Britain's most prolific climbing partnerships. The Sheffield based pair are well suited. Both share a penchant for cracks, training, and adventures. Unlike most...

Factor Two - S2 Episode 3: Rick Allen - Clouds Come and Go

In the last two episodes we looked at aspects of flow, whether seeking the euphoria as an escape or chasing it as a performance tool. But there's an area of climbing where flow won't be enough. The objectives are too long, too...

Dave Gregory - A Life Lived to the Full

A stalwart of British climbing Dave Gregory passed away recently. In this article his long-time climbing partner and...

Requiem Revisited - Ken Crocket on Dave 'Cubby' Cuthbertson

Ken Crocket writes about legendary Scottish climber and photographer Dave 'Cubby' Cuthbertson,...

Tommy Caldwell - The Push

On the 4th anniversary of the first ascent of The Dawn Wall by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson, we are pleased to release this...

In Memory of Al Evans

Mick Ward reflects on the life of Al Evans, a much-loved character of the British climbing scene and long-time highly active member of...


DESTINATION GUIDE: Bouldering in Oukaimeden, Morocco

Bouldering in Oukaimeden, Morocco

Oukaimeden is a small village in the High Atlas Mountains (2700m.) of Morocco and only 90 minutes drive from Marrakech. A new boulder destination with thousands of untouched sandstone boulders. Dutch climber and local resident Keoma Jac...

Bishop: the Buttermilks and Beyond...

If you were to ask a child to draw a prototypical boulder, the chances are they'd sketch something similar to the Buttermilks. When combined with the alpine backdrop, this must make Bishop one of the most aesthetic places to boulder in the...

Hostile Terrain - Trad Adventures in North Devon & Cornwall

Devon's honorary Brummy Stu Bradbury takes a look at some of the more esoteric offerings of the South West's North Coast. Be warned: this article should come with a public health and safety warning, so tread lightly...

Spittal Crag, Northumberland

Franco Cookson shares the delights of Spittal Crag in Northumberland... In 2005 Cassim Ladha, Steve Burdett and...

Hodge Close Quarry - An Unlikely DWS Paradise

Neil Gresham takes a closer look at what could either be a chossy hole in the ground or a quirky...

Donegal

Donegal, in the northwest of Ireland, contains more climbable rock than the rest of Ireland combined, with two major mountain ranges, eight...

Carinthia - Austria

Austria has no shortage of top-quality climbing. Tirol, in the west of the country, is already known as a world-class alpine and...


ARTICLE: Franco Cookson's Guide to Headpointing

Franco Cookson Franco Cookson's Guide to Headpointing

The evil word. Pre-practice, top roping, working: all synonyms for that most diabolical of threats to stylistic purity. Even before Alastair Lee's aesthetic masterpiece Onsight, headpointing had got a bit of a dubious reputation for allowing Trad ...

Neil Gresham Technique and Training Toe-Hooking and Clamping

Neil Gresham continues his technique series and the theme of footwork, taking an in-depth look at toe-hooking.

Top Tips Ten Top Tips for Buying Winter Boots

Whether you're a winter walker or a winter climber, buying the right boot can be bewildering, so MIC Jake Phillips has some advice to help you make that crucial decision.

Pertex Expedition Series Pertex Expedition Series Part 4: How to get to Basecamp

In part four, we follow the team as they head to India and begin the journey to Janhukot. They explain...

British Mountain Guide Becoming a British Mountain Guide

Aspirant British Mountain Guide shares some thoughts and tips that he's learnt whilst preparing for the BMG training scheme.

Lattice Training Series with Tom Randall Part 7: Training Lessons from the Over 50's

Crack connoisseur, training guru and director of Lattice Training, Tom Randall, shares some training tips in this...

Lattice Training Series with Tom Randall Part 6: Finger Injuries

As a climber, if you are regularly pushing yourself and trying hard, it is likely you will get a finger injury at some point. The only...


DIGITAL FEATURE: Volume 3

Humans of Climbing Volume 3

DIGITAL FEATURE: The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Range East, Pembroke

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Range East, Pembroke

DIGITAL FEATURE: The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Wilton

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Wilton

DIGITAL FEATURE: Volume 2

Humans of Climbing Volume 2


TRIP REPORT: Expedition Riso Patron Sur

Expedition Riso Patron Sur

In February/March 2018, Matteo Della Bordella (ITA) and Silvan Schüpbach (SUI) climbed the Riso Patron Sur in Chile, establishing King Kong (900m, M7+, 90°). They sent in the following report.

New Multi-Pitch in Kyrgyzstan - Alexandra Supernova

"Kyrgyzstan! Wow! Where is that? Can you climb there?" Almost everyone asks me this whenever I start to tell the story of my last summer-holiday. "Yes, you can!" Kyrgyzstan is the home of the Pamir-Alai-Mountains. There are many...

New French Route on Baffin Island

In May, a team from the Chamonix-based GMHM (the French mountain military) opened a new route on Baffin Island, Canada. After two weeks of free climbing and difficult aid climbing, the team of four climbers reached the summit of an aesthetic tower that...

Jiptik Valley 2016

In July of this year, Robert Taylor, John Proctor, Ciaran Mullan and Phil Dawson headed to the Jiptik valley in Southeast Kyrgyzstan....

Greenland - New Peaks, New Routes

Can I commit to a trip to Greenland this summer? Can I commit quickly? Can I commit now!? A personal account of...

The Bad Man from Bodie - Greenland New Routing

Wil Treasure and Duncan Barrack share a trip report from Greenland's Tasermiut Fjord, where they...

The American Direct - Up, Over & Round the Top

The Drus towers high and mighty over Chamonix. It's very pointy. The west face is an immense wall of...


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