UKC


Article A Scotsman's Duty

Gordon Smith writes about Scottish winter and alpine climbing adventures from the mid-seventies... In my day walking up the Allt a' Mhuilinn to the CIC Hut from the distillery was a horrid, mucky business. Bog-trotting was what we called it and often we wore wellies to keep our climbing boots, our socks, and our enthusiasms dry. There was this one time that I was bog-trotting up the hill and I came across one of those Englishmen. He said his name was Terry King; Terry to his pals but he was Kingy to me from that day on. He was wandering down in the late afternoon with his mate looking fed up after a day of mucking about doing nothing much at all. I was on my own which, being a teenaged climbing vagrant, I often was. I had a vague plan to do some soloing the next day but Kingy straight away made me, an utter stranger, promise to stay an extra day or two after and do some climbing with him when he came back up the hill. And so I did. I promised.

Facing the Samsara: Indian Women Climbing High

Nutan Shinde-Pawar profiles three women pushing boundaries in Indian climbing and competing on the world circuit... You might wonder where women feature in the Indian climbing community. In recent years, a major milestone in Indian climbing...

Phil Davidson Obituary - Top Lad

Mike Owen writes a tribute to close friend and bold soloist Phil Davidson, who passed away on Tuesday 2 February. It began with a message from Phil back in August 2018. Typical Phil, he just came straight out with it, no beating about the bush. "You're...

What's On Your Bookshelf What's on Your Bookshelf? #2

In our second What's on Your Bookshelf, Robert Durran lets us peruse his shelves of old, new, rare and...

Room 101 - Toby Dunn's Worst Climbing Experiences

Toby Dunn casts his mind back to ten climbing experiences of which he's not proud; overly enthusiastic...

Hard Knocks on Ben Nevis

Gwen Moffat shares a story about a salutary walk to the CIC hut in the fifties... There were snow clouds...


Avalanched on the Lancet Edge - a Cautionary Tale

Mountain rescue expert Dave 'Heavy' Whalley recalls a serious incident in the early 1970s, a time when avalanches in Scotland were poorly understood. These days we have far more information to help make safe decisions - if we choose to use it.

South-West Sport Climbing

September heralded the fast approaching end of the summer climbing season with many praying for an eternal Indian summer to get that last project clean. However, truth be told, the deteriorating weather can turn many crags into a dank seeping mess within...

Scrambling Classic Scramble - The Dubh Ridge

With acres of perfect slabs in a stunning island location, the Dubh Ridge isn't only one of the longest rock climbs in the UK, but also has to be among the most enjoyable at any grade. Dan Bailey and Nick Brown load up for an overnight trip to this laid-back...

A Guide to Climbing Trips in Europe by Train

Train travel enthusiast Amy Underwood Thompson shares some tips for planning and enjoying more...

Chamonix Jams

John McCune takes us on a tour and relives his experiences on the best of Chamonix's jamming cracks. As mixed climbing conditions become...

Stoney Middleton - Historical Relic or Overlooked Gem?

Stoney's legendary polished walls have been a forcing ground for generations and many...

Scrambling Cuillin Traverse: Taking the Easier Route

Adrian Trendall, author of new Cicerone guide Skye's Cuillin Ridge Traverse, explains how to smooth the hardest edges...


Running My Winter Running Accident - a cautionary tale

It may have been a lockdown-friendly local route he knew well, but a surprise slip on icy ground put fell runner Nick...

winter Snowshoes in Scotland - more than just a novelty

Requiring less skill than skiing, and making a big difference when progress on foot would be a nightmare, snowshoes have a clear niche in Scottish winter, reckons Alex Roddie. Having spent years insisting he could do without, Alex is now a...

Running Walk Before You Run - winter skills for hill runners

There are a lot of strong runners out there, but those coming to winter hill running without a grounding in mountain skills may not appreciate the severity of the challenge posed by snow on the hills, says fell running guide Keri Wallace. Here...

Understanding Winter Weather with Plas y Brenin Part 5 - Observations on the Hill

Forecasts are great tools at the planning stage, but once out on the hill you'll have to rely on your own observations and judgement. In the final part of our series Will talks us through the vital skill of staying alert and open minded.

Understanding Winter Weather with Plas y Brenin Part 4 - Planning and Decision Making

In part 4 of our series on winter weather and avalanche forecasts, Will breaks down the planning and decision making process into a clear, step-by-step system, which can be used whether you're walking, skiing or climbing.

Finding what works best for you and your body is key.  © Lattice Training

The Female Climber Series The Female Climber Series Part 1 - Training in Sync with your Hormone Cycle

Having studied the SAIS forecast, we opted very emphatically for a ridge  © Dan Bailey

Understanding Winter Weather with Plas y Brenin Part 3 - How to Use the SAIS Website

part 2 montage  © Matt Stygall

Understanding Winter Weather with Plas y Brenin Part 2 – What to Look For in the Weather Forecast

With an eye to the forecasts, we've been able to get out in dreamlike conditions on the Aonach Eagach  © Matt Stygall

Understanding Winter Weather with Plas y Brenin Part 1 - How Forecasts Work Together


First Ascents An Oral History of the First Winter Ascent of K2

Photo Awards Marmot Photography Awards 2020

Photo Awards Marmot Photography Awards 2019

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Curbar


British First Ascents in Patagonia

In the hazy, distant past before the current pandemic, a team of Brits enjoyed their own form of isolation in a remote valley in central Patagonia.  In January 2020, Simon Smith, Alasdair Fulton, Graham Dawson and Rob Lovell travelled t...

Runnel Vision – An expedition to find adventure in Brazil

James Taylor reflects on a trip to Brazil in 2019 where a strong team aimed to free climb a new route on the south face of Pedra Baiana; an 800m granite monolith.

El Potrero Chico - Multi-pitch Sport Climbing in Mexico

'The idea of going to El Potrero Chico, Mexico was agreed on. I got in touch with Peter to say I was going to be in North America between February and March. Wanting sunshine and multi-pitch sport climbing El Portrero kept coming...

Expedition Riso Patron Sur

In February/March 2018, Matteo Della Bordella (ITA) and Silvan Schüpbach (SUI) climbed the Riso Patron Sur in Chile,...

New Multi-Pitch in Kyrgyzstan - Alexandra Supernova

"Kyrgyzstan! Wow! Where is that? Can you climb there?" Almost everyone asks me this whenever I start...

New French Route on Baffin Island

In May, a team from the Chamonix-based GMHM (the French mountain military) opened a new route on Baffin Island, Canada....

Jiptik Valley 2016

In July of this year, Robert Taylor, John Proctor, Ciaran Mullan and Phil Dawson headed to the Jiptik valley in Southeast Kyrgyzstan....


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