RBonney 24/Sep/18 AltLd O/S

Against all the odds. This was supposed be the third stack of the weekend but the weather shut us down on the first 2. Sunday evening and the weather looked promising. Then we phoned the taxi we found out she could only pick us up at 9:30, and hour later than expected. We weren't sure we'd have enough time. When we got to Rackwick we set off at a fierce march, desperate to have enough time to get on it. We made it to the viewing point in 35 mins and headed straight down. Hostel to stack in an hour. We didn't even discuss if we had the time at the bottom we just racked up and cracked on. Piers led pitch 2 in the middle of which we caught rain but the old man kept most at bay. I struggled through the crux, I honestly thought I might come off, but I composed myself and found a low foot on the face. Once into the groove I knew it was easier from here. When I joined P at the belay we knew it was in the bag. Pitch 5 was out of this world. To see the sea and the sun lit rock on through the crack was magical. Moving up the final few moves it all felt surreal. And it still does to some extent. When P joined me on the top I had a small lump in my throat. What a fantastic experience and something I'll remember for the rest of my life. It was well worth all the disappointment of being denied the first 2. Thanks P for the best climbing experience of my life.

with Piers
mzchambers 12/Sep/18 AltLd β

Lead p3,4,5

Andrew Barker 03/Sep/18 AltLd rpt

Great to get back to Hoy again.

with Danny G, Chris Moran
Hidden 03/Sep/18 AltLd
Bobs Burger 02/Sep/18 -
Adam Coles 02/Sep/18 AltLd O/S
HaleAlex 27/Aug/18 AltLd

Lead pitches 1,3 and 5 Incredible route. Pitches 3 and 4 very grimy/fulmary but more than compensated for by the position and the final pitch and top out. What an adventure!

with pc1983
pc1983 27/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4. Once you've committed to pitch two and done the downclimb and traverse I found it to be one of the best pitches and good protection with good rests. Never too tiring. Bring big cams! Pitch 4 was green and full of fulmar shit! 5 was a joy, seeing the sun shine through the stack at points.

adamsriches 25/Aug/18 Lead β

Lead all pitches. Epic climb, went slightly off piste on third pitch which was exciting, ended up at an abseil station rather than the belay maybe. Certainly climbed up a chimney and around a ledge and down when I wasn't supposed to. Had seen some videos before so knew what to expect and had some gear beta too so can't claim the onsight. Started late so ended up abbing off in the dark which was atmospheric.

with Vaughan , punchpidge
punchpidge 25/Aug/18 2nd β
JendeHoxar 22/Aug/18 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
widdlestickmcpoos 22/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Joe Doyle acommpanying

Flavio 22/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Epic from the moment we abandoned a smeggy Pembroke trip. Drove home, picked up 60m ropes & guides, can't remember where/if we slept, pre-ferry grease climbs in Sarclet. 6am alarm to catch first Hoy ferry, met toothless gnarly handed school-run driver, dropped us in some farm, fully toothed wife/postwoman give us & random German a lift, rain. Spotted climbers - doubled walk in pace and descent. Perfect conditions from p1, nice swag on p2, and 3 fulmars struggling to generate vomit on p3-4, obligatory Gary L. mistake, p5 is ace. Early top-out in full sunshine, enjoyed a spare hour, had fish wraps and fulmars didn't notice, signed the book and abbed off. Got a lift back from couple who sailed from Cardiff & helped do new routes at st Kilda, perved at rare Eagles with some bird buffs telescope, had scones, they don't do refills, early boat back. Seals. Memorable, possibly the best climbing day ever and barely any climbing in it!

jld579 22/Aug/18 AltLd O/S
elcapitainkev 21/Aug/18 AltLd rpt
with Matt17
Matt17 21/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Been waiting for a long time for this one and it didn't disappoint! Led p2, half of 3 and 5. 2 and 5 are really brilliant, loved every minute. No taxis or buses though so had to walk across the island twice!! What a day! Stack 3 of the trip.

with K2
Rob McGurk 19/Aug/18 AltLd β

Lead pitches 1 and 2. Everything one could want from a route! Adventure, interesting climbing and topping out a freestanding feature. The crux was astoundingly good and leading it was a highlight. Took long ropes: the free-hanging final abseil was also quite something!

alanp1992 19/Aug/18 AltLd
Elaine Reed 19/Aug/18 AltLd dog

An excellent adventure. The traverse on Pitch 2 was very scary but the rest of it was quality. Got the crux clean and then lost my balance at the top of the slab after it, which was a bit annoying. The chimney was great fun though, with the rucksack proving quite useful. Lead Pitch 5, which was really lovely. Summiting into the sunshine was an incredible feeling.

with Al (Ford Castle), Rob McGurk
Hidden 11/Aug/18 -
Tim Rodgers 11/Aug/18 Lead
with kerry
Hidden 08/Aug/18 AltLd O/S
madeleine 08/Aug/18 AltLd rpt

Happiest day of my life.

Goodstuff 08/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Even pitches. P2 crux is one of the most incredible, out-there leads I've experienced. Demanding yet utterly enjoyable. Three 60m abseils from the top saw us down no problem. Great climb but average trip due to tight timeframe, midges, etc. Would love to go back for a longer period of time and with a more chilled atmosphere.

with Matt Barnet
alexanderforsyth 08/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Happiest day of my life.

klcmunro 07/Aug/18 2nd
Liam Ingram 07/Aug/18 Lead O/S
RHW 29/Jul/18 2nd

TimH(L) Alan Rick Richard

Tim Hamlet 29/Jul/18 Lead

Led every pitch with Rob Woodall, Rick Salter, Alan Whatley, Richard Mclellan. Rob and Alan completed their 2982 HUMPs (hundred meters of prominence). Windy but sheltered on the route. Top of pitch one had a useful length of rope to help with the traverse.

cottoneye 25/Jul/18 -

Excellent adventure climbing. 3 abseils to floor on 60m ropes

with Godwina
jackob 25/Jul/18 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing experience! definately feel like i got the full tick after being puked on by several fulmars! Lead p2+4. P2 felt pretty wild!

David Chase 09/Jul/18 -
with Max McQuillan
southernclimber 06/Jul/18 Lead O/S
guisboro andy 26/Jun/18 -
with dave
Larey 09/Jun/18 AltLd O/S
with Cailean harker
BewareOfFallingClimbers 08/Jun/18 2nd O/S
bigie bob 29/May/18 AltLd O/S
Jeremy_Thornley 29/May/18 AltLd
with Ian Gibb, Gareth Griffiths
ollyroberts 28/May/18 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2,3+5 Brilliant adventure climbing!

with Lee Paskin
Hidden 22/May/18 2nd
NinaR 15/May/18 AltLd O/S

Abseil fail so seconded 4th pitch and led 5th

Hidden 30/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
henwardian 30/Sep/17 Lead β

Repeat ascent but the crux pitch still feels pretty out there.

John Workman 19/Sep/17 2nd
JRJones 06/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

2 and 4? offwidth pitch.

Alasdair Fulton 05/Sep/17 Lead dnf

OK, so it's an amazing feature on a stunning island. But classic? Really? Maybe because we had really torrential rain a few days before it was extra sandy...but it was grotty, horrendous, polished. Got to top of 2nd pitch and bailed as climbing is meant to be an enjoyable experience. Saw some dolphins which made up for it.

with Pollux
herman0055 01/Sep/17 Lead
with Gareth
craig.potter ?/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Jamie Singleton ?/Sep/17 -

17 hour epic

with Ian Singleton
wheelsucker 29/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Derek Graham 29/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb, did pitches 2 and 4. Managed to avoid the Fulmar vomit whilst Gary was not so lucky. 3 abseils from the top. Top is full of tat, the other abseils have been cleaned up with what looks like fairly recent rope and Mallion. Stayed at Radwick Bay bothy which was pretty good and the warden Jimmy was a very friendly guy. All in all an excellent trip.

glenngordon 16/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with James Seaman, David Taylor
Davy Taylor 16/Aug/17 2nd

Glenn Lead

with James Seaman, Glenn Gordon
Milnes 13/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Bri Mac
pauldrew 09/Aug/17 AltLd
pete johnson 09/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Paul got the full vomit experience ha ha. Great day out.

Hidden 06/Aug/17 2nd O/S
marconi 01/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

P2 and 4. Tasha led p1, Marv p3, and then p5 in sustained rain. Unforgettable

with Marv
Hidden 29/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 29/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

A lifetime tick. The climbing was mind blowing, and playing chicken with vomiting Fulmars was kind of fun in a sadistic sort of sense...

UncleMephisto 29/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Magical. One of the best adventures with the perfect partner in crime. Never too hard but utterly traditional - being comfortable in chimneys and wide cracks goes a long way on the crux pitch. Topped out into a lightning storm, which summed up the whole trip - time and again, victory snatched from the jaws of defeat!

Hidden 29/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jul/17 AltLd
Heather Osborne 21/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Made it up for sunset and a sip of whisky at the top! Led P2 and P4. Struggled to make upward progress in the chimney on P2 for a while, but what an amazing pitch in an awesome route! And fortunately we avoided all the vomit

with Alasdair Dickinson
luckyjim 18/Jul/17 AltLd

Perfect day for climbing... warm ,sunny, dry rock with light winds and the Fulmars kept their vomit to themselves !

with D Helm
montymoo 14/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

A real epic day out.

lazza 14/Jul/17 AltLd

Omg, what an amazing climb. Pitch 2 is a bit out there, pitch 5 is brilliant. Got the early morning ferry to hoy after driving through the night from Bournemouth, got to the top at 9pm after a 6 hour climb. Probably not ideal but still some light in July at that time. Got back to the bothy at 1am zzzzz a truly amazing adventure. Thanks to Gareth and mark for a great climbing trip OMH

Gareth 14/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Great day, left Thursday night from Ringwood, at the top by 9pm on Friday, back at bothy for 1 in the morning. Just beat the rain that came in Saturday. Great trip to a wonderful place

Hidden 08/Jul/17 AltLd
dmacmorris 04/Jul/17 Lead rpt

As good as ever pitch 2 and 4 this time round.

Hidden 04/Jul/17 AltLd rpt
Finlandia 26/Jun/17 2nd
Annaclaire16 26/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Wonderful day with Simon and Tommy, sunshine and puffins.

with Simon, Finlandia
Tenntenntuihn 20/Jun/17 AltLd

We took my accordion and I played it on the top :) Probably a first in this respect! - Loads of fun

with Karl, Lee, Colin, Olly, Ingrid
ClimbMcG 20/Jun/17 -

What a ride with some awesome company. No pulling on gear or resting on ropes, result.

with Lee Morgan, Tenntenntuihn, Slipknot_olly
henry peter jenkins 20/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with John crooks
rinda_ree 10/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Malte= Pitches 1, 3(fulmar vomit), 5 Me= Pitches 2(crux), 4

with Malte Stozyk
Hidden 10/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
samdickensuk 05/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
JoeDickens 05/Jun/17 AltLd

An epic climb as a three. Led pitches 4 and 5. Getting down was almost as hard as getting up, although at least you could see the birds when abbing. Second pitch was not as technically demanding as expected but the unprotected traverse was a bit hairy as the third climber. Best climbing on pitches 2 and 5. Take lots of big cams, decent ab tat and something to encourage the birds not to vomit on you.

Hidden ?/Jun/17 AltLd
nicks ?/Jun/17 AltLd
ian d f ?/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with TimCul
Sam Shilliday 31/May/17 AltLd O/S

A risky gamble on a weather window paid off spectacularly with the best day of climbing I've ever done. Lead P2 and P4. Definitely a climb next to a crack not a crack climb!

mike mo 21/May/17 AltLd G/U
with Dave Roscoe
kelly_426 16/May/17 -
with LDudill
Hidden 16/May/17 AltLd O/S
Nikki Hawkins 07/Apr/17 AltLd G/U

Done in the lee of strong winds and rain. Claim as 5c for all the lagging we had to wear!!

with Paul Scott
harrig-01 ??/2017 AltLd
with herman0055, Sue
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 Lead O/S
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
annep 04/Oct/16 AltLd

Lead 1, 3 and 5. A great adventure!

mzchambers 04/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Lead 2+4. Had a belay on the second pitch as I poorly rigged the traverse. Fun coming off with a note left in but a sort climb sorted it.....

with annep
masa-alpin 19/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

What a climb and adventure! It not is only such an iconic rock and involves complex and arduous logistics/travel/approach, but also offers the best-quality rock-climbing pitches! Michelle lead P1 and P3, I did P2, P4, P5. (There were 2 in-situ cams stuck in P2.) Abed off in 2 pitches with 70m double. From Stromness to Stromness in a day (taking a bike). Missed the morning ferry from Scrabster by 10 min the previous day, but it turned out to be better, as we didn't carry camping/bivvying equipment on the day of climb.

with Michelle A
Natalie feather 17/Sep/16 AltLd
Rob Moorcroft 13/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Marti999 02/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
richardashe 02/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and Russ lead others.

Russtygibbons 02/Sep/16 AltLd
scarmichael 19/Aug/16 AltLd

Lead pitch 2 and 5,arguably the only two decent pitches on the route but very enjoyable climb! Strong winds made for an interesting abseil!

oliver.ghill91 19/Aug/16 2nd

Epic trip with my old man and brother. His first every climb in the UK. 14 hour drive. 10 hour climb, which included hauling my dad up the crux pitch. All round mission concluding in monster drive back to southampton. Memorable scenes.

with Dad, Patrick Hill
Patrick Hill 19/Aug/16 Lead rpt

10 hr up and down. Dad's first UK climb, jumared pitch 2 and 5. Hilarious!

Hidden 18/Aug/16 AltLd
Little AndyH 14/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/16 AltLd
noskki 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S

lucky break in stormy week. Fulmars reasonably relaxed. Rain on the walk out. Lost my approach shoes at the bothy in Rackwick Bay.

with frank
Hidden 04/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Spinney 02/Aug/16 -
glenngordon 02/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Vicky Gorn, Maggie Inglis
Hidden 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
dmacmorris 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

P1,3 and 5. A+ experience

Dougbart 17/Jul/16 Lead

Climbed between the rain. Toped out in the sun to puffins and razorbills and a salute from the passing Ferry. A day to remember.

with Gregor
ferdia 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
burto 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with moleo, ferdia
Tom Livingstone 20/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led evens

Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/16 AltLd
pftom 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P5, the best pitches. Good weather all day

with Angus Gillespie, Seb Lee
Maia 30/May/16 AltLd O/S

great day dodging fulmars!!

with Jenny Middlehurst, Jim Slater
Jim Slater 30/May/16 AltLd rpt

Perfect day, excellent weather, luckily we got to the base of the climb first. Led crux pitch. Those damn vomiting fulmars got me this time round...Oh and Jenny was so so brave!

with Jenny Middlehurst, Maia
penny.orr 27/May/16 AltLd
kermit_uk 27/May/16 AltLd O/S

Years in the making! As a 3 in under 24hrs from Sheffield! What an experience!

with Michelle_250, Steve Woolass
Michelle_250 27/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Steve , kermit_uk
donwito 27/May/16 AltLd dog

Wasn't quite ready for the exposure&sandiness of p2 and pulled on gear in the crux. Nevertheless what an adventure!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27/May/16 AltLd O/S

Great start to a great week, what a route! Even more sandy than I'd expected, but even better too - worth every minute of the drive to get there.

Skotch85 27/May/16 Lead O/S

Wito lead the crux pitch. Climb some sandy stuff before you go there and you'll be fine.

with donwito
Tasermiut 23/May/16 2nd dog
with lyneux
lyneux 23/May/16 AltLd dog

Epic day out with an edgy descent route. I lead P1 and P3, Ian: P2, P4 & P5. Be careful not to split P3 into two like I did. All of us covered in Fulmar puke by the end!

with Tasermiut, Ian Rickerby
Hidden 20/May/16 AltLd dog
Hidden 20/May/16 Lead
Adam Hill 16/May/16 AltLd

The Old Man delivered in spades what we were looking for. A great days adventure, from leaving the bothy in horizontal rain, a fully focused descent path, sandcastle building on P2, coming through the crux looking like we'd been caving, laughing at Simon getting puked on only to find it was my turn next, topping out in the sun, awesome abseil, missing our ferry. Like everyone else who's stood on the top, today will live long in the memory.

with Simon
bodovix 12/May/16 Lead O/S
rons 12/Apr/16 AltLd

Perfect day, wonderful climbing!

Hidden ??/2016 -
edgar ?/Oct/15 Lead
with Will Herriot, Hector Kennard
edgar ?/Oct/15 AltLd
with scottpaterson100, Matt Ince
scottpaterson100 ?/Oct/15 AltLd
with edgar
Hidden 29/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden 14/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
johnstacksanders 12/Sep/15 -
with Al Sanders
ride_998 ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
mim tiller 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Samantha Dickson 31/Aug/15 2nd O/S
jev 23/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Great adventure! Was sunny but too windy to stand at the top. Lead P1, 3, 5.

with Jonas
Davecapewell 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Awesome climb. Best adventure to date.

mattfarr 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Hoy is a great place to spend a couple of days. The route felt adventurous, pitch two and five are decent. All went well, we lucked out with the weather. Amazing experience overall.

Hidden 11/Aug/15 AltLd
Ian Jones 11/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Disgusting! Poor 1st pitch, 5c crux (seriously) and sandy. Glad to get off it.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
owain86 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Finally got around to going and doing this! Great trip.

Jamie Skelton 04/Aug/15 AltLd RP
08nbrierley 04/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Worth the journey. Lead pitches 2 and 4. Was a raining a bit at the start and very windy. Just managed to get the first ferry in and last back to Stromness.

mattierd 02/Aug/15 AltLd
with jeremy, Ross J
lukehunt ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Vikky
Hidden 02/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jul/15 AltLd
Fred_Richard 23/Jun/15 -
with Pete
salix 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead easy middle pitches past Fulmars. Perfect weather, and great climbing. Top pitch is the best. Fantastic day out.

with Brian, Euan, AmyG, Noemie
AmyG 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
eaf4 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

with Amy, Noemie and Will as well. perfect day, warm, no wind, no spew from fulmars. led pitch 2 & 4. tried to wimp out on 2nd pitch but Will wouldn't let me! loads of puffins on the top! brilliant day!

with Brian Shackleton
noemie5438 15/Jun/15 AltLd
with salix, AmyG
Hidden 12/Jun/15 -
TimKnight 12/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Top day - Making the last ab in the dark added to the mix

with Andrew Mitchell, Nick Charteris
Peter Metcalfe 11/Jun/15 AltLd

Take a massive cam for the off-width on the crux pitch or be prepared for a monster run-out! Pitches above that were scrappier than expected but final corner is a delight. Especially as you can see through right through the stack at that point!

with Pete
Hidden 11/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead β
mshansen 30/May/15 2nd
Pat-H 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Mhairi G 23/May/15 2nd
with Pat-H
HeatherF 22/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Baker
markfairbank 04/May/15 AltLd O/S

Seemed unlikely sat in the van in Rackwick bay in the rain but cleared up just in time! Started at 3, back down by 9. Immense, led p2, 3 and 5. No fulmars but plenty of sand and dampness to contend with.

Anne Fairbank 04/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 09/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Jacob Phillips ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
jimxxx ??/2015 -
Ri 04/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Every pitch this time. Nicer conditions all round despite the shower on the Pitch 2 belay.

madeleine 04/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Ri
glenngordon 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S Well done Mr. Duffy. It was the route that you had set your heart on and you climbed it well. Yes!

with iain thomson, ray duffy
Iain2754 13/Sep/14 2nd
with Ray Duff, Glen Gorden
davebrox 10/Sep/14 AltLd
with Ben Wallace, Vanders
Finlandia 05/Sep/14 Solo

Aye, ukc route 1 is a good one! Climb it before it falls in the sea. Be careful on the steep grass descent after rain, route itself seems to be affected little by moderate rain.

gazfellows 15/Aug/14 Lead

First off! This is no way a 3* route! ..... 10* is more appropriate. The adventure starts as soon as you get in the car. Everything from the go is a proper climbing experience ! For me this is the perfect climbing experience and the Old Man certainly has all the ingredients! If your lucky enough to go to Hoy make sure you stay until you have climbed the Original route. And I'll guarantee you won't be disappointed. If you are then maybe you should take up Green Bowls! The second pitch alone is worth the trip. EXELLENT Thanx for this one Sir C.B

with Nic
erictant 15/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Absolutely awesome experience. 8 hours base to base. Spent an hour on the top in beautiful weather waiting for 2 other parties. Led P2 and top pitch as Paul let me take all the glory; Thanks mate! Really sandy on P2 but managed it without pulling on anything. Incredible exposure and none of the pictures prepares you for how deep the chimney is. Thought the crux was the move after the pull onto the face. Paul took direct hit from a chick on P3, could still smell it all the way home.

with cox
madasten 15/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Incredible experience - not just the climb (which is epic in its own right) but the whole island is remote, beautiful and unforgettable. One of my best days of trad climbing ever! Around 6 1/2 hours bottom to bottom as we were the third group on it that day and were climbing as a trio. Lead pitches 2, 3 & 5. Drank beer and scotch on the top and danced naked... of course.

with Nicola, Anna, Miquel, gazfellows
Hidden 05/Aug/14 2nd O/S
gilmour_789 31/Jul/14 AltLd
with RKernan
RKernan 31/Jul/14 AltLd

4 day mission from Belfast. Did in 6 pitches,got confused on P3. Led P2, 3 and 5. P2 was interesting! Got surprised by a fulmar on P5, flinched, slipped on sandy rock and fell past the belay onto ancient gear! Sprained ankle and bruised arse. Great route. 5 hour round trip base on route.

Robb Bert 25/Jul/14 AltLd

Led P1,3&5. Fantastic weather. Only had a tee shirt so happy everything went as planned.

Coops_13 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

P 1, 3, 5. Amazing climb in amazing weather. Fulmar chicks tried to chunder on us, almost got taken out by a dead bird on 4th pitch.

Patrick Hill 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 4. Pitch 2 was spectacular but very sandy.

Hidden ?/Jul/14 -
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Cardi 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lovely day. Led P2,4&5. Rock dry, and not too sandy despite rain the day before. Crux felt like old school Whillans and Brown HVS, hard bit quite short lived then wonderful cruise to the belay. Jon got destroyed by 2 fulmars on the fulmar crux of pitch 3. Pitch 4 was much more obvious once I was on it. Pitch 5 was awesome. Great views from the top, but apparently missed a pod of killer whales passing moments before! Razorbills and puffins on top. Abseil down to an intermediate belay on pitch 4, then to the top of P2 on 60m ropes. Then the most exposed abseil ever down to the ground! Wine on the beach at Rackwick bay to top off a great day.

with Jon W
phil64 09/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

An amazing climb in an amazing place, Even worth doing just for the journey.Great to get so close to the fulmars and puffins.. haha Pefect gear would be single rack wires couple small cams then 2 x f3, 2 xf3.5, 1 xf4, 1,camalot4 & 1xf5. oh and lots of slings and long draws. Would be good to take a knife and new rope to replace the bundles of rotten tat. Next time!

with matt dean
SMc 07/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Luke, Ged
sparkass 04/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

With two of the best, thanks to Mike for tackling the tough stuff. Sandy, rainy, birdy and great. Although I seem to have an uncontrollable fear of fulmars! A good achievement and a proper mini adventure.

steely 04/Jun/14 2nd

Magic day out in the wind rain and fulmar vomit. Thanks to Duncan and mike for dragging me up it!

mshorter 04/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
peter.ravenscroft27 29/May/14 AltLd O/S

we finally made the pilgrimage and was not disappointed. an absolutely stunning, mind blowing, gnarly climb which I have ever done! started at 6:36pm and topped out at 10:39pm. i could have made sandcastles on all the holds on crux pitch. final abseil was in the dark! If you need a bus/taxi from moaness to rackwick as missed the one advertised phone: 01856791263. he will fit your needs and pick you up within 2 mins notice.

with Jack Godwin
Dave Turnbull, BMC 26/May/14 AltLd rpt

P2 definitely not easy; a struggle unless in dry condition. 5th time up the Old Man.

with Noah Rees, Harry Turnbull, Chris Rees
cobweb 25/May/14 AltLd
with Allan Moore, euan naismith
whispering nic 20/May/14 Lead O/S

Very atmospheric and a big adventure. The in situ rope between the 1st and 2nd stance is worn to a thread, so take 60m ropes to get straight to the deck from the top of pitch two, or a third 50 to tie between the two belays. Lots of Dubious tat on all the belays. From the bottom of the final corner pitch we made two big abseils which worked a treat. Only one fulmar was on target!

with Gerard
Simon Allcock ??/2014 AltLd O/S

led pitches 2 & 5. awesome sunny day, got the fulmar experience

with Wilki
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden 27/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
GazzerM55 21/Sep/13 AltLd

Exceptionally good trip. All the ingredients of why you start climbing in the first place! Cunning line, traverses, historical debris, sandy jamming, wild exposure and a good old fashioned battle up pitch 2 that you won't forget! Thanks to Albert and Fay on Hoy for hospitality and transport. We got the ferry back in time and walked into the Orkney Blues festival at Stromness saturday night! Traditional celebrations ensued!

with Ronnie Wriggs
Ri 13/Sep/13 AltLd

P2, 4 & 5. Great to do it.

Hugh Macgregor 13/Sep/13 AltLd

Pitch 1&3, no crux for me.

with Ri
cat22 08/Sep/13 2nd
tumbling wizard ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with andrew marshall
Fragmod 26/Aug/13 Lead
Brown 26/Aug/13 AltLd
with Andy R
pbuggy91 25/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Lead pitch 3 & 4, fell seconding pitch 2

James Oakes 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Very cool route, led pitch 2. Belays need tidying up a bit and the ab rope for p2 is knackered and probably unnecessary.

hlegge 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I lead the first and last pitches. The second pitch was hard and sketchy, the last pitch was amazing! Couldn't find the book on top which was a shame.

with Peter Bugryniec, James Oakes
Hidden 21/Aug/13 AltLd
danimal88 17/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

so after 5 washes the fulmar vomit is just about leaving my trousers. epic climb. finished last pitch and all abseils in the dark with one head torch in a bit of a maelstrom. climbed some vertical protectionless sand on pitch 4 courtessy of the glatter guide description. Yes I know it's my own fault for bringing it etc. Apologies for the probably now in situ rope situation from pitch 2 to the coll. amazing climb now it's finished. Update. thanks to AL for removing ropes from P2. if anyone manages to bring them back to the mainland and let us know that would be grand.

with charlie
Craig Holden 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S

pretty straight forward, crux sandy and bold. Got ropes stuck on ab from top of P2. Airy pruisik back up next morning.

with Robbie
Hidden 09/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
tonevert 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Very Sandy

with Gavin, Kevin Faux
Gavdee1 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Led first pitch, Kev then led the crux, Tony led the third pitch before Kev led through to the top

with Tony Johnson, Kev
Kevster 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Adventure! Fulmars in place still, only a couple though.

tomosb 08/Aug/13 AltLd
with Darren Thompson
mhawk 05/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/13 AltLd
Fiona McFarlane ?/Aug/13 AltLd

I led pitch 1,3 and 5 all clean. Fell on the crux on second on pitch 2 though. What a glorious route!

with Sarah Bayley
Hidden 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Gordon Lacey 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
AndyL ?/Jul/13 AltLd

Great day out!

with Antony
cuthill76 29/Jun/13 Lead

A great climbing adventure just a shame that the actual climbing is so poor. The crux pitch was just so sandy, and 3 and 4 scrappy and dirty. The top pitch is probably the best of the lot.

scotclimb 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Got it ticked, but the climbing is poor!!

afcervantesluna 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Second all climb, Except P5

Hidden 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Olli-C 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

3 day mission from york. Lead second pitch, avoided fulmar's vom until final abseil. Worrying stood on top knowing that you have to abseil past all the birds again. Liam did excellent job leading the abbs, fixed rope from top of second pitch to the ground definitely helped pull us across.

Rachel Slater 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

A great route, not for any of the pitches but the situation as a whole! We set of from the base at 9 and reached the ground again at 2. I lead pitch 1 and 3, Olli pitch 2 (very sandy) and Liam pitch 4. Pitch 3 I got covered in fulmar vomit which managed to cover all the clothes i was wearing despite wearing a full set of disposable waterproofs on top (looking like I was about to go caving, not climbing!).

HansStuttgart ?/Jun/13 AltLd

Great adventure

Dan Vaj 26/May/13 2nd β

Wow. Fulmar puke could not detract from this climb. Pitch 2 sandy and exposed.

with James McHaffie
Alex Mason 22/May/13 Lead O/S

Led P1,P3 and P4. Fucking cool climb. Wind was so strong our ropes blew out fully horizontal on the last abseil.

with George Ullrich
Hidden 19/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead
NeilOMalley 27/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

led P3&5, kudos to Jase for P2 and 4. bit green on the upper pitches 3&4 quite a bit of rain but still not too bad. no fulmars, no midges, awesome route. Aside from the daylight hours it seems like a good time of year to head. Stayed in the bothy for three nights. WARNING there is no beer on the island... not within walking distance anyway.

Hidden 10/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Milne 10/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1, 3 &4. not sure how i got landed with the scrappy ones (with no gear). epic voyage, set off from belper 21:00 sunday, topped out in the dark 20:15 monday after no rest or sleep. exciting abseil into a pitch black abyss in the rain. scramble out up the grass far more scary than the route. no fulmars to be seen, but crux pitch was like being on the beach, god knows how dave led it. its worth all the effort just for P5, truly awsome position when the stack splits in 2, and you can see right through it.

with jeff, truckmonkey
Hidden 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
timjones 02/Sep/12 2nd

What can I say. A fantastic route only slightly spoilt by the fact that I had to second it all due to broken ribs. I WILL be back to lead it!

with Neil McLean
NeilGriffiths 28/Aug/12 AltLd

A tremendous journey. Synergy - remote, committing, historic, scenic, adventurous, wildlife, good company, great characters on the way etc. The climbing is good, steep and exposed in places with a pitch from the gods to finish. I like interesting. I like celebrating with a bottle of malt.

with Adam
Hidden 28/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
James Oswald 15/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch and 4th. Simply ace but sandy. We were both sicked on...

with Colin Angus
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3 & 5. A few in situ fulmars on P3, but otherwise a brilliant experience. Pitches 2 and 5 are both excellent.

climbergg 07/Aug/12 AltLd
with Tim M
Dickon151 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
petekeron 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S


Tim M 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Jevans ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
MonkeyDawson 28/Jul/12 Lead

2nd time. Made even better by the pipes from the headland and a wee ceilidh on top!

with ZA
MonkeyDawson 14/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Euan Strachan 11/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Sandy wide crack: cracking. Did with mediumish size cams, there's 'plenty' of tat on route for the clipping. was windy enough to have probably abbed on 50m ropes! Last pitch is 4 star!

with Graham Dawson
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Mark Collins 05/Jun/12 AltLd dog

Lead pitches 1, 3, and 5 but fell at the crux. Way out adventure. I found talking to the birds meant they didn't puke on me, or was it that I was the last to pass and they had run out of ammo. The abseil from the top of pitch 2 to the ground is the most out landish of my life. Such a relief to touch down safely.

with Muttly
Muttly 05/Jun/12 AltLd β

Mark P1,P3 and P5. I took P2 and P4. Epic day, no idea how long it took because we were fortunate enough to meet some other climbers at the base and needed to wait our turn (weather was nice enough I didn't even check my watch). Sandy as anything on all the holds, the crux felt 5b but the hardest 5b I've ever done because of the conditions. I was really chuffed to get up and just as chuffed to get down. I also nailed the Geocache on the top :-)

Hidden 03/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Quite an expedition.

Andrew Sloan 29/May/12 AltLd dog

Led pitches 1,3 and 5. Struggled seconding up 5b pitch and fell trying to do move round second overhang and had to rest: thought it was nails hard. Also very sandy.Have waited a long time to get this big tick.Climbed in 3 hours 35 mimutes.3 abseils down with 60m ropes.Got vomited on by several of those little bastards!

TimPerkin 07/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great adventure! Led first and second pitches. Take big cams for the sandy, steep and excellent pitch 2, and attach a rope between 1st and 2nd belays for the descent or you will be left dangling in space. Last man down detaches the rope and gets pulled in by partners! Some of the in-situ ropes are shredded, and a bit of a nuisance as our ropes got tangled with them. Also had to reclimb part of pitch 3 to free rope.

with iforwms, Richard Harris
iforwms 07/May/12 AltLd O/S

Tim lead pitches 1 and 2, Rich pitch 4, and I climbed 3 and 5. Great route, massive move out of the crack, even seconding.

with Rich Harris, TimPerkin
iforwms 04/May/12 2nd dnf
with Rich Harris, TimPerkin
robpartridge ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Peter Aberneathy, Marcel Broenner
Paul Evans 29/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic experience and wonderful weather, we were so lucky. Some notes - the rope from the top of P2 to P1 belay is now through to the core, best to ab straight from top of P2 with 60m ropes. The belays at the top of P4 and P3 are rusty pegs and bolts, we put new tat on P4 belay and maillons on both these belays. We and others have also left backup wires at these belays, not a great solution. At some point these belays are going to need properly re-equipping. P4 and P4 abs have the rope running over ledges and even with a euro death knot it can still jam (Jim had to go back up to free ours on P3).

Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
JonG ??/2012 -
Narked4fun ??/2012 Lead
with George Wright, Keith Bell
Hidden ??/2012 -
stephen ashworth 10/Sep/11 2nd
with john frost, martin clarke, floss_81
Hidden 10/Sep/11 AltLd
martin clarke 09/Sep/11 AltLd

What an adventure a little slippery and damp from pitch 3. Thanks to john and the team for an unforgettable trip.

with floss_81, Frostie, steve ashworth
Frostie 09/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

What a Brilliant climb, lead the last 4 pitches. The last 2 pitches were a bit damp because it started to rain. If your thinking about having a go at climbing it don't be put off by the 5b crux move its not that bad. Enjoy.

with floss_81, Martin Clarke, Steve Ashworth
Laura Hamlet 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Sandy stuff on first two pitches. Some lower offs/belays looking a bit rusty but held ok for us! In situ rope for 2nd last abseil in good condition. We had to leave our twin ropes on the last abseil due to force 9 gale whipping them into spaghetti.

with Owen Raybould, Tim Hamlet
Tim Hamlet 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Laura Mckenna
Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd
nige 09/Aug/11 AltLd

Great experience. It would be good to take a knife up to cut some of the tat away from the fixed belays. Some of the belay gear is in good condition but some is very old and rotten. It would be good to remove the old stuff as it gets in the way, especially at the top of pitch two. There is a fixed line in place from the top of pitch one to the top of pitch two which is in good nick at present.

with ewan mccallum, mark hounslea
Bargate_Champ 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Left Guernsey on the Friday and after 3 ferries and driving the entire length of Britain we climbed the route on the Sunday. Check out this video of the road trip

Tophe 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Drove approx 800miles from Guernsey, on the first metre of climbing Nathan got sand in his eye and we had to bail due to the wind, It was him that planned it all so quite comical looking back at it. We climbed it the next day,It was very windy which made for a hard climb but it was somehow sheltered on the top, the crux pitch felt like E2+ plus to me and I was on a top rope!

crabby2009 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome - 25th Birthday challenge for the 25th Anniversary of the Guernsey Mountaineering Club! Took a bit longer than planned but went pretty smoothly. Placed a geocache at the top, as we could't find the ascent book.

JRae 21/Jul/11 AltLd

Epic. Spent a while cleaning / drying holds on the crux pitch which was like climbing on wet ball bearings - definitely didn't want to skid off this thing! Awesome climbing in a brilliant situation, the most exciting bit was dodging the fulmars!

chrism225 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with JRae
M_W_Court 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Epic!! Left Sheffield at 0300hrs and summitted at 2330hrs. Abbed off in the dark with one headtorch (mine) between four of us. Couldn't resist the lure when we arrived on hoy at 1800hrs and started climbing at 1930hrs. Spent about an hour and a half on the first ledge waiting for the pair with us to get through the crux pitch. Good climbing throughout, although the second pitch was pretty slippery (Although not as bad as Jonny made it sound!!) but still quality.

with Stuart Cartwright, JRae
Nic DW 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3.

with rob askew
Bob M 13/Jul/11 2nd

Every bit as good as expected. Very lucky to have perfect weather on a date we had fixed up a month earlier. The crux pitch is outstanding, finding a way through daunting terrain at a reasonable standard.

with Andy Nisbet
Hidden 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
simon_D 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Alex took the crux which had interesting out-there moves past the 2nd roof (hard with a bag on) but a great route and some incredulous situations (especially the pile of loose plates on top! and the sand..) 60m ab from the top of p2 crux overhangs will get you to the floor as we found out..

with Alex
mike hope 29/May/11 AltLd rpt

2nd visit and a great tick in between the rain for Chris with his sponsorship for Gloucester House

with Chris B
philhilo 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

Wow, what an experience, the drive, the ferries, Yesnaby, Rackwick, the company and finally the climb. Everything I had hoped for and worth every penny (lots) every minute (4 days) and every mile (1300). Helen P1, me P2 crux - no soft touch, required plenty of thinking about, Misha P3 and P5 (best pitch of VS I have done anywhere. Had to reclimb 1/2 a pitch on the third ab after rope lassoed a gargoyle way off line. The few birds were far more interested in bonking than us! Back to the top of headland in the dark - so much for summer rock finishing early. Helen had been warned to take a headtorch climbing with us!

with heg, Misha
Misha 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

The hardest bit was sorting the logistics a couple of days beforehand... Left Solihull 5.45am, Phil drove all the way, 6.30pm ferry to St Margaret's Bay, fly camped at Yesnaby, did four routes there, afternoon ferry from Houton to Hoy, camped outside the bothy (fantastic place). Didn't manage an early start so only started climbing at 1pm but that was ok as no one else on the route, in fact didn't see any other climbers all weekend. No bird problems either - a few fulmars sitting on ledges off to the side but not nesting yet. Helen led P1 (nice warm up) and P4 (going off route up an offwidth to start with), Phil led P2 crux, I led P3 (bit dirty) and P5 (great bridging on clean rock all the way, best pitch). Topped out at 7pm and took in the view and atmosphere. Perfect blue sky and hardly any wind all day - what more could we have wished for? Four abs back down, including final 60m free handing ab, took two and a half hours but at least the ropes pulled through fine. Back down at 10pm, just enough light to walk back up onto the headland, then walked back in the dark. Late dinner in the bothy, then up at 5.30am to get the 7.10am ferry. Looked at a couple of prehistoric monuments before getting the Pentland ferry at noon. Back in Solihull at 1.30am, home for 2am, work next day. Good route, great experience. Thanks to Phil for the vision! (Also thanks to William & Kate for the extra day off)

with Helen, philhilo
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd
ablackett 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
jonny taylor 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

What an incredible route! Everything I had hoped for. Found the second roof an extremely taxing (and sandy) offwidth problem. Top pitch was just sensational.

beds74 25/Apr/11 Lead

Classic! Amazing effort from the other half...As she had hung up her climbing boots! Good weather.

with Rebecca Edwards
pete87abs 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with marcel, rob
steveleahy 15/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
daviesxxx 15/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Mege route, Ilead main pitch Steve led top pitcht

Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Johnny Baker ??/2011 -
drew8connelly ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
sebrider 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

I'm speechless for once! Perhaps some really nice person with a sharp knife could clean up the hoards of tat off this thing, its litter in an amazing place. If I go again it will be cleaned! Especially the tat off the crux :(

Chris wilson 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

We had the stack to ourselves and didn't even have to share it with any fulmars. The travel, the location, the iconic route all combine to make this a really special trip.

andyinglis 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
paulnc 05/Sep/10 AltLd

Took all day climbing as a three with strong winds - one of the most adventurous days climbing I've ever had! Then back to the brilliant bothy by the beach - I'll remember this one for a while :)

with Rob Doman, Pete Cole
mikemartin 04/Sep/10 AltLd

I got the 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches. Ewan took a 10 metre whipper from the crux, he was held by a bit of tat around a wooden wedge. Easily the finest climbing adventure I've ever had.

Captain Solo 04/Sep/10 AltLd

Interesting day, a bit windy, crux pitch holds were a bit damp and sandy so ended up taking a wee fall. Straightforward after that! Great climbing and exciting abseil, glad to get ropes back ok.

JohnH1977 ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd RP
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
Will_Maxwell 25/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing! Lead 2nd and 4th pitch! 2nd pitch was an absolute belter!

with Rafael Pena
John Tanner 24/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Tom Led: 2 and 4 I Led: 1, 3 and 5 Pitch 2: What a crux! Pitch 5: Stunning moves and topping out is awesome

with tom106
funsized 24/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Tom took p2. Manage to end up in esoteric finish to p3 that finish in a heart-in-mouth traverse (i.e. went left up the chimney)

with Tom Green
tom106 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S

incredible! will not forget 2nd pitch

Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Westy
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Theeni ?/Aug/10 AltLd
eddy-on-the-rocks 27/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Started at 5pm after a long march from the ferry. Toughest e1 I've ever done. A seagull was sick in max's mouth. Awesome.

with max
cox 01/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Si Carter 22/Jun/10 Lead

With Rich Long, Mark Fairhurst.

French Erick 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with DaveHK
richardlong78 05/Jun/10 AltLd
with Mark Fairhurst, Simon Carter
Mark Fairhurst 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
John Roe 04/Jun/10 AltLd

Fantastic evenings climbing

Hidden 04/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 22/May/10 -
Hidden 11/May/10 -
prcleary ??/2010 -
richtea21 ??/2010 AltLd
with S.Pelly
Hidden ??/2010 -
Skinny Kin 09/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

It was still windy when we started the route at 1400 but sunny. After the crux pitch, it was very calm on the leeward side. The crux is definitely 5b; so sandy. The sunset at the top was icing on the cake. But the stuck abseil ropes were a bit of faff. Quite errie abseiling into pitch black. Fantastic bothy and magical beach. All add to the experience of climbing the Old Man. Will be back for my 40th.

hawkins321 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

fantastic adventure! did during high winds, the tail end of a hurricane!, so couldn't stand on the top long. epic.

with rosie atkinson
dmorgan27 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Terryl
ewen 11/Aug/09 AltLd
with jeb
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Chris
davenev 15/Jul/09 -

Luke you've enabled me to get to some great places but this was the best. Simply awesome adventure cheers mate! :)

Mr Tickle 15/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Thanks Dave, brilliant adventure. Damp on crux pitch which made it feel hard for 5b. Lifetime memories. Lead all apart from 1st pitch.

with davenev
becauseitsthere 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S


with Pete Mayhew, Paul Mayhew
Hidden 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 AltLd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 29/May/09 AltLd

A super adventure on a perfect day - sunny and calm. We had camped at Rackwick Bothy the night before (unmissable - a superb spot). Started climbing at 9am. Summited at 1pm. I led pitches 1, 2 and 4 (Fulmar thwacker required on the latter pitch). Pulled on the sling at the crux roof. Waited 5 hours on top in the scorching sun for the other 4 parties to complete before abseling down. Retrieved two abandoned 60m ropes on the stunning final abseil (returned to owners the next day).

with Mike Tempest and Dave Wilson
Hidden 29/May/09 Lead
mtempest 29/May/09 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Dave Mason 29/May/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant.....nothing more to be said

with Adam Gill
Hidden 25/May/09 AltLd O/S
Joemanglerocks 22/May/09 AltLd

Lead all but crux pitch. Incredible weather, very lucky. 3+ Fulmer strikes but puffins friendly enough.

with Bill O'Neill, Smiler Cuthbertson
colina 21/May/09 2nd O/S

too much to say here my 50th year...awesome adventure ,something i will remember for the rest of my life.last pitch was better than sex

with bob and smiler cuthbertson
Smelly Fox 20/May/09 AltLd O/S

Lead all but the first pitch. A very memorable day indeed. Especially the lightning strike!

with Scott Webster
sonaf 05/Oct/08 AltLd

led 1st & 3rd

with Chopper
Hidden 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/08 2nd
cem 17/Aug/08 AltLd dog
babymoac 17/Aug/08 AltLd

On the top on 50th birthday, perfect timing, shame to miss the boat to the pub !

with cem, GrahamD
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd
Chris Beck ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome Adventure!

Ed Booth 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Got naked on the top ;-)

Hidden 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Vish, Roel
twright180 15/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

i lead the crux

with John McCune
steveboote ?/Jul/08 AltLd

With Vic Belshaw and John Sage...stunning

richiebongo 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 05/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb. Led final pitch.

with Mike Hale, nick carter
Hidden 04/Jun/08 AltLd
upontop 25/May/08 AltLd

A classic climb and location, last pitch is the best and most enjoyable, but it was all chocolate.We had the stack to ourselves,except for the Fulmars who struck with accuracy.

with Tim
thrutch 25/May/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome climb. Worth doing just to climb the top pitch. 7 hours up and down. Best weather and views. We each lead climbed the top pitch and lowered back down thus letting us get down with 2 full abseils on 60m jobs.

with upontop
Andrew Barker 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

Fantastic - easily in my top ten days out climbing. Brilliant sunny weather and no-one else on the stack.Crux pitch is intimidating but didn't feel too hard for 5b. We got back down in three abseils - last went straight from top of crux pitch to ground with double 60m ropes.

with Ken and Hannah
Ken Applegate 05/May/08 AltLd
with Hannah Evans, Andy Barker
jonka ?/Apr/08 AltLd
with degs
decs 13/Feb/08 AltLd

Not bad for a cheeky raid in February

with Sam, Konrad, Gaz and Becky
Hidden 13/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
sgl 13/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Led Crux, pretty special to do it on a warm, blue sky day in mid February

with Gaz, Duncan, Konnie, Becky
gaz.marshall ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with sgl
csw ??/2008 2nd

guided ascent - following mick tighe - abbing down met tim emmett & friends making their way up to do the fastest descent (by parachute)

reg_measures ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Dan and Neil
chapmand ??/2008 AltLd
Ben C ??/2008 -
Hidden 22/Sep/07 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin 08/Sep/07 AltLd

To clebrate my 50th and Daves 40th, brilliant!

Dave Rumney ?/Sep/07 AltLd
ecowaller 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Paula
Duncan Skelton 11/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. One to remember.

with Kai Green
elegant cheddar ?/Aug/07 2nd
with adam hughes
akhughes ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 23/Jul/07 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 23/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
Mother Simon 23/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
Graham Iles 02/Jun/07 AltLd

Climbed in gale force conditions in four pitches. Lead the second and fourth pitches. Memorable.

Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
andy_pemberton ??/2007 AltLd

Done in a long weekend with an unlimited mileage hire car from Leicester. Didn't read the guide book and didn't bring a 3rd rope for the abseil! Fortunately another group turned up and we used theirs.

with Steve Sinfield
KRB 22/Oct/06 Lead rpt

Sunny day but preceded by a wet week. Rock soaking and thick with green slime for the whole of pitch 3 & 4. Top crack brilliant. 18 years since I first did it and despite conditions, still worth the trip.

with Chris & Martin
MazElden ?/Oct/06 AltLd
with tmawer
tmawer ?/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Dave Pritchard 30/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Burnsie
Hidden 23/Sep/06 AltLd
GeckoGeek 14/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Dirty but amazing location.

with Arin
arin78 11/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

Route is really dirty, but it was still fun. Final pitch is the best!

with Mark
Hidden ?/Sep/06 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/06 2nd
Lawrence Eccles ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Great climb. As others have said, it is littered with tat. Obviously there is tat on all the abseils; but there is also a lot of wooden wedges and rope dangling down the route and across the crux that would not be missed by me at least.

with A. Crook
sammoore ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Mark Reeves
Hidden ??/2006 -
Dirk Wallis 17/Aug/05 2nd
with gforce
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
cornishben ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Barnaby Carver and some scottish bloke
The Reaper 25/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out, starting with the early ferry out from Stromness, a taxi over to Rackwick bay with instructions to pick us up in time to get the last ferry back in the afternoon. The pressure was on. All went well on the ascent, the meaty pitch fell to Alex who dispatched it easily, we then romped up the top three pitches to top out just as the rest of the family arrived on the headland opposite. Some concern on the descent as Alex overshot one of the ab stations but thankfully recovered herself safely and we made it down just as the rain started. Rejoined the family for the walk back to Rackwick and home in time for supper. Great to share this experience with my daughter who has since gone on to do much harder and more scary things.

kevg ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Craw, Mark
mike hope 15/May/05 AltLd O/S

Wonderful adventure from Oxford to the summit. A dream that had been around for years.

with Martin S
JEP ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ??/2005 AltLd O/S


with Dan Carroll
Hidden 18/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/04 AltLd dnf
a_hein ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Oliver Metherell, Tom Spreyer
John Marsland 11/Jun/04 AltLd

Pulled on gear on crux.

with John Haslam
Mike Lee 08/Jun/04 AltLd O/S

Led last pitch only (70ft 4b) - VS corner to top out superb, completely breathtaking!! Seconded the other pitches. 460ft E1 5b 5 pitch

with Liz
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
steveb2006 10/Sep/03 Lead

A 4.30am start to get ferry to Stromness then to Hoy. Had planned to do route next day but weather is perfect so decide to get on it, just ahead of a couple of students. Lovely climb and views - Ian leads pitch 1 I lead rest. In evening we stay at Rackwick bay bothy - beautiful evening. Next day wind and then rain - get soaked on walk out

with Ian Cartwright
Hidden 28/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Just Another Dave ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
with Jo Bertalot
Ab Wilson 20/Jun/02 2nd O/S

My first trad climb so I seconded all the pitches. Second pitch is amazing - I'll never forget the feeling of working my way out of the overhanging crack and onto the face. Can confirm that 60m ropes reach the ground from the bottom of the second abseil.

with John Dale, Ian Woodgate
Chad123 ?/May/00 AltLd O/S

Classic big loose sea stack, with some memorable pitches and lots of cute puffins

with Muppet
Hidden 30/Apr/00 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1998 2nd O/S
Colin Edwards ?/Aug/97 2nd
with Simon Gough Brown
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
kylo-342 ?/Jun/97 AltLd
with Kirsten
James Underhill ?/Sep/96 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/96 -
Pete Main 06/Jun/96 Lead

with G the joiner
Pete Main 06/Jun/96 Lead
with G the joiner
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1996 AltLd O/S

Climbed with DS in the mid 1990s. A great excursion. Intermittent squally showers added to the experience. No fulmars, thankfully.

uphillnow 09/Sep/95 AltLd O/S

Heavy rain overnight. Drizzle on pitch 1, pitch 2 damp on first part but dried out by half way. Dave did final pitch

with Dave Richardson
crossleysm ?/Sep/95 AltLd O/S
Neil McA 06/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Bill Runciman
craig h ?/Aug/95 AltLd
with Jim Mellor, Liam Corrigan
Hidden ??/1995 -
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Hidden 18/Sep/94 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/94 AltLd O/S
richparry ?/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
Duncan I ?/Jun/94 AltLd
with Al Willoner
paul_j_burgess ?/Aug/93 AltLd O/S

Alternate leads. MS led the 5b crack pitch. Would have been good to have had some bigger cams.

with Martin Slater
Yourlead 08/Jun/93 2nd

Bruce & Paul climbing behind - Rapped off together

with Graham Penny
steve taylor ?/Apr/93 AltLd O/S

Fantastic adventure - ferries, long walks, bivvies, seagulls, guano, tat and lots of fear.

with mark grover
Hidden ?/Jun/92 AltLd
Bob 01/Oct/91 AltLd O/S
with N. Walton, A. Newton
conradallen 03/Jun/91 AltLd O/S
with Jimmy Clethero
Hidden ??/1991 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
with Myles
BigHairyIan 20/Sep/89 Lead O/S

Hard work for HVS, which is what it was listed as at the time. Superb adventure, poor rock though. can abb straight off top of pitch two with twin 60m ropes

with Martin (from South America)
Hidden ?/Aug/89 AltLd O/S
craig h ?/Aug/89 AltLd
with Dnmn
craig h ?/Jul/89 AltLd
with Luke Steer
Hidden ?/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden ?/May/89 2nd
rogerskews 02/Jun/88 AltLd O/S

Great adventure with help from Stevie (ferryboat) and Albert (taxi on Hoy). Take your own tat for the abseils !

with Bryn Roberts
mike bridges 29/May/88 AltLd O/S

Done on a long weekend for Kev`s Stag doo!we took photos of the "old man" from the ferry to Stromness,camped at Rackwick,(it never went dark)then climbed the next day.I led pitches 1,(3&4),Kev did 2&5.P.U and Ned climbed also,but as far as I can remember we all followed Kev up pitch 2! ha ha. Headstands on the top,(as you do)photos of each other and the puffins then a fantastic abseil down,(we utilized an in situ fixed rope with the outer sheath missing in places!)Great weekend,must go back!

with KRB
KRB 29/May/88 AltLd O/S

Did for my Stag weekend. Excellent weather, good climb, good weekend.

with Mike Bridges
RichardMc 13/Sep/87 AltLd
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Bgordon ?/Jun/87 -
Greg Cunningham ??/1987 AltLd
with chris hills
neil3965 ?/Jul/86 Lead
with Pip Gee, Russ Leaper
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
BobDuncan ?/Oct/85 Solo O/S

Backroped 2nd & final pitches. Scary stepping off the stance at the bottom of pitch 2 to jumar back up, swinging way out... overall a totally brilliant experience.

MikeYouCanClimb 28/Jul/85 AltLd
with Adam
nniff ??/1985 AltLd
with TAff the PTI
Nigel Bond 15/Jun/82 AltLd
with Steve, Charlie Leverton
dtalbot ?/Apr/81 AltLd
Martin Bennett 08/Sep/80 -
with IW
TonyF ?/Jul/80 AltLd O/S
with Martin Lancaster
pneame ?/May/75 2nd
Hidden ??/1975 Lead O/S
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 98
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 93
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set