Rockfax Description
An excellent route and the classic of the face. The climb takes the black streak in the centre of the face. The rock is incredibly compact and provides the perfect climbing medium, albeit with very little potential for gear!
Start 60m to the right of the black streak, just right of an area of more broken rock, underneath a corner.
1) III, 80m. Climb the corner on easy ground (belays possible) to reach a prominent ledge on the left.
2) I, 80m. Traverse easily left along the ledge, passing a cairn (start of Via Delle Placche). Belay directly under the black streak.
3) V, 30m. 4) V, 30m. 5) V-, 30m. 6) IV+, 30m. Follow the black streak for four pitches.
7) III, 40m. Continue for another 20m to reach the large scar at three-quarter height. The Diagonal Route crosses the scar here and can be used if the exit pitches of the Messner are wet or as an enjoyable link-up between routes. Continue easily up the scar to belay at the top right corner (often some tat here).
8) IV, 40m. Follow a seam as it makes a rising traverse rightwards to a shallow corner. Climb this to its end before making a short traverse right to belay below a second corner.
9) IV, 40m. Climb slabs to the right of the corner (a number of possible lines) to reach the summit slopes. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Well spaced protection pegs up a featureless slab. Good climbing once accustomed to the runouts. UIAA V.

Messner & Messner.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Big Routes , Dolomites Trip

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