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UKClimbing Team

505m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start on the right of the col, at the base of a small groove.
1) N4, 20m. Climb the groove up to a belay.
2) and 3) 80m. Grade N2 to N3 scrambling leads around the corner to the left, then up the ridge for two rope lengths.
4) N3, 45m. Move around a loose corner on the left and climb mossy blocks to the 'Lunch Ledge' below a prominent vertical chimney.
5) N4+, 25m. Climb the chimney past several chockstones. Go through a tunnel on the right, then back left to a belay. Wet near the top.
6) N3+, 20m. Head up a short wall then move right around a corner to a belay near the bottom of a gully.
7) N3, 20m. Climb straight up the ridge, staying to the left of the gully, to blocks and a belay.
8) N4-, 30m. Follow the ridge and climb up a shallow corner.
9) N2, 30m. Easy scrambling leads up to the base of a slab split by a jamming crack.
10) N4+, 25m. Climb the crack up the slab (by jamming and laybacking), to a good ledge under a large bulge in the ridge.
11) N4+, 35m. Traverse right across a big flake (and move slightly downwards), then leave the flake. Traverse right across a short wall into a chimney. Climb straight up the chimney to regain the ridge crest.
12) N2, 175m. Follow the slabby ridge (tricky at the start), then scramble up the ridge to a gap which requires a jump to cross. Continue more easily to the summit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50, Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Psk94 27 Sep, 2019 Solo rpt 3 timer bil til bil
3 timer bil til bil
tobyk 5 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S Maybe I’m a wuss but the jump looked massive. We opted to abseil in and scramble out the other side. Great route, started off in the clag but cleared to be an amazing day. It is a long day out, took us 14 hours car to car.
with Emma Knights
Maybe I’m a wuss but the jump looked massive. We opted to abseil in and scramble out the other side. Great route, started off in the clag but cleared to be an amazing day. It is a long day out, took us 14 hours car to car.
with Emma Knights
steve-grigg 1 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S
Helgelb 1 Aug, 2019 -
Lottie Green 1 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S
Vidvandre 27 Jul, 2019 -
Chma1 19 Jul, 2019 -
with Gjøran Hansen
with Gjøran Hansen
hlegge 19 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S Led all pitches except two classic ones which Melanie led (chimney and jam crack). Most of lower route on crumbly sandy fairly unpleasant rock. As for higher rock got nicer. Jump was scary to commit to but easy to actually do! Melanie totalled her knee on the jump so descent was longer to take care although thank god she could make it down under her own steam. The views were what made this route incredible. Most stunning views from trip!
with Chloe Ingold , Melanie Grunwald
Led all pitches except two classic ones which Melanie led (chimney and jam crack). Most of lower route on crumbly sandy fairly unpleasant rock. As for higher rock got nicer. Jump was scary to commit to but easy to actually do! Melanie totalled her knee on the jump so descent was longer to take care although thank god she could make it down under her own steam. The views were what made this route incredible. Most stunning views from trip!
with Chloe Ingold , Melanie Grunwald
cki 19 Jul, 2019 2nd
with hlegge
with hlegge
JagoNeath 7 Jul, 2019 AltLd
Heightseeker 16 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S cracking long route took all day the walk off was meaner than the climb pitch 11 is a bit hairy scary that big block will fall off one day
cracking long route took all day the walk off was meaner than the climb pitch 11 is a bit hairy scary that big block will fall off one day
Jepaulsen 8 Sep, 2018 -
with Marthe Limstrand
with Marthe Limstrand
Hidden 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2018 Lead
Hidden 10 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Greenerz 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Moved together through scramble parts Lead pitch 2,3,6,8,10 16 hours car to car
Moved together through scramble parts Lead pitch 2,3,6,8,10 16 hours car to car
thomb 22 Jul, 2018 AltLd Great climb. Don't worry too much about route description in rockfax - it misses a lot of small scrambles and walks between pitches.
with Harry
Great climb. Don't worry too much about route description in rockfax - it misses a lot of small scrambles and walks between pitches.
with Harry
Hidden 20 Jul, 2018 Solo
Tinuviel 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Vidvandre
with Vidvandre
Nikolay C.K. Tjøstheim 17 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S 10:20t. Bil - bil. Jeg gikk litt feil ved nest siste taulengde. Mye løst, mye gress, mye grus. Lite luftig klatring. En del fjellstil. Mye solo klatring. Hadde nydelig vær så utsikten gjorde at ruta var fin. Ellers en bra dag med tanke på å bruke kroppen mye. Veldig varierende klatring
10:20t. Bil - bil. Jeg gikk litt feil ved nest siste taulengde. Mye løst, mye gress, mye grus. Lite luftig klatring. En del fjellstil. Mye solo klatring. Hadde nydelig vær så utsikten gjorde at ruta var fin. Ellers en bra dag med tanke på å bruke kroppen mye. Veldig varierende klatring
Jacob Jutrem 17 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S 10t20m telt til telt under pianokrakken. Mye gress, jord, sand og grus. Normalruta ned.
10t20m telt til telt under pianokrakken. Mye gress, jord, sand og grus. Normalruta ned.
Psk94 12 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jarl Gåsvær
with Jarl Gåsvær
Tilt ?Jul, 2018 -
stjonns 28 Jun, 2018 Lead Kjk kurs. 5 taulag 15t og 15min bil-bil.
with Gaute Løvfall
Kjk kurs. 5 taulag 15t og 15min bil-bil.
with Gaute Løvfall
HansStuttgart 13 Aug, 2017 - very good day. Loved the jump, was smart enough to jump before looking down.... The walk in was annoying though
very good day. Loved the jump, was smart enough to jump before looking down.... The walk in was annoying though
Gianthit 5 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
SturlaS 20 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
stjonns 29 Jun, 2017 AltLd Klatrekurs, totalt 11 deltagere. Total tid 14t35min
with Håvard Birkeland
Klatrekurs, totalt 11 deltagere. Total tid 14t35min
with Håvard Birkeland
Ross Davidson 26 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
67hours 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S I led the second half, including the off-route short steep crack in region of P7/8, and the long layback/jamming crack. The compulsary, unavoidable jump is really something!
I led the second half, including the off-route short steep crack in region of P7/8, and the long layback/jamming crack. The compulsary, unavoidable jump is really something!
Hidden 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
alexm198 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Linked up with Småkallenryggen for a huge day out. Quality of the rock and the climbing improved dramatically here. Moved together for the whole thing. Very straightforward. Took 1h45.
Linked up with Småkallenryggen for a huge day out. Quality of the rock and the climbing improved dramatically here. Moved together for the whole thing. Very straightforward. Took 1h45.
Matt Harle 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
lydiag 4 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Dan, Will Johnson
with Dan, Will Johnson
M.Hallen 4 Aug, 2016 - Beautiful trip. Went up the left hand side of the ridge on first pitch the pass two other teams that were taking long time on gearing up. Simul-climbed up to lunch ledge. Messed up something on the 7&8 pitch. Went up a steep short wall that felt much harder than 4- (maybe 5). Had to wait before the crack pitch for maybe 2 hours. P11 is kind of a bottleneck.
with Carolina, Jarl
Beautiful trip. Went up the left hand side of the ridge on first pitch the pass two other teams that were taking long time on gearing up. Simul-climbed up to lunch ledge. Messed up something on the 7&8 pitch. Went up a steep short wall that felt much harder than 4- (maybe 5). Had to wait before the crack pitch for maybe 2 hours. P11 is kind of a bottleneck.
with Carolina, Jarl
dan_o_b 4 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
bridget143 21 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S The walk in along Djupfjord was the best bit, to camp on the beach at the end of the inner lake would be idyllic. We had amazing views and sunshine all day and it was a good job we had midnight sun as this route takes some time unless you are willing to simul-climb. Led some of the easier pitches. The chimney was great fun and the jamming crack was on nice rock but the rest was nothing to write home about. Abesiled and easily climbed out of the gap (in-situ slings). The descent is very arduous especially only 2 months after knee surgery (5 hrs), used the rope across friction slabs but there were several steep scree sections which some people have abesiled and a very steep gully to down climb after the traverse with loose rock. A day to remember!!
with Simen
The walk in along Djupfjord was the best bit, to camp on the beach at the end of the inner lake would be idyllic. We had amazing views and sunshine all day and it was a good job we had midnight sun as this route takes some time unless you are willing to simul-climb. Led some of the easier pitches. The chimney was great fun and the jamming crack was on nice rock but the rest was nothing to write home about. Abesiled and easily climbed out of the gap (in-situ slings). The descent is very arduous especially only 2 months after knee surgery (5 hrs), used the rope across friction slabs but there were several steep scree sections which some people have abesiled and a very steep gully to down climb after the traverse with loose rock. A day to remember!!
with Simen
jonnie3430 7 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Peter Reynolds ?Jun, 2015 Lead
Hidden 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
ferdia 26 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Lyndsey Mackay, Clare Muir
with Lyndsey Mackay, Clare Muir
Hidden 13 Jun, 2013 2nd
James Oswald ?Jun, 2013 Lead dnf Walked into this route after getting up at 4:30 in the morning to make sure there was time to pack after. After getting to the base of the route I was too cold and wet so decided to back off and walk back to Henningsvaer via Djupford.
with Ferdia, Lindsay, Clare Erskine
Walked into this route after getting up at 4:30 in the morning to make sure there was time to pack after. After getting to the base of the route I was too cold and wet so decided to back off and walk back to Henningsvaer via Djupford.
with Ferdia, Lindsay, Clare Erskine
Hidden ?Jun, 2013 Lead
RM199 21 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Steven Andrews 20 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Fantastic positions and worth it just for the view but the climbing is good in places and passes through some great rock......and to top it off there is a jump accross an abyss. Lofoten's Tower Ridge. Oh yes, and then there is the descent!
with Delphine
Fantastic positions and worth it just for the view but the climbing is good in places and passes through some great rock......and to top it off there is a jump accross an abyss. Lofoten's Tower Ridge. Oh yes, and then there is the descent!
with Delphine
Conan 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Nice mountaineering route. Lots of scrambling with a few climbing pitches on mostly solid rock. Jumping the gap was quite scary. Combined with the descent of the normal route made for a superb day out. Well worth the 3 stars
with Paul Farish
Nice mountaineering route. Lots of scrambling with a few climbing pitches on mostly solid rock. Jumping the gap was quite scary. Combined with the descent of the normal route made for a superb day out. Well worth the 3 stars
with Paul Farish
Hidden 11 Jun, 2011 Lead
Hidden 2 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Roch 26 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with MRT
with MRT
Hidden 8 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Joris.Roulleau ?Jul, 2009 Lead 2 or 3 good pitches and the fancy jump at the end. and fabulous views. Apart from that, not much fun really, the shitiest rock ever. Not really worth it. I recommend the walk up Vagakallen instead
with Libby Blundell
2 or 3 good pitches and the fancy jump at the end. and fabulous views. Apart from that, not much fun really, the shitiest rock ever. Not really worth it. I recommend the walk up Vagakallen instead
with Libby Blundell
dan gibson 21 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S No gap to jump, a lot of snow instead.
with helen gibson
No gap to jump, a lot of snow instead.
with helen gibson
eivindf ??, 2009 Solo O/S
Tarquin ??, 2009 -
Hidden 12 Jul, 2008 -
biggianthead 8 Jul, 2008 -
with T
with T
alan moore ?Jul, 2005 - Big honeymoon ramble. Mostly scrambling on dirt: big chimney was novel, as was the one pitch of climbing. Spectacular jump at the top and sunset on summit. Down at 1 am.
Big honeymoon ramble. Mostly scrambling on dirt: big chimney was novel, as was the one pitch of climbing. Spectacular jump at the top and sunset on summit. Down at 1 am.
Steve Lenartowicz ?Jul, 2004 Lead
with Clare
with Clare
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Voting
High n5-
Mid n5-
Low n5-
High n4+
Mid n4+
Low n4+
High n4
Mid n4
Low n4
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set