125m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route with a tough and steep second pitch. The more ice the better
1) 2, 30m. Follow the gully until it closes in. Belay below an icy left-wall
2) 5, 30m. The chimney is overcome by strenuous bridging and then a step onto the left wall proper. Climb this to a good belay
3) 3, 35m. Climb over the large chockstone and belay beneath the final exit chimney
4) 3, 30m. Climb the chimney and a steep snow slope to finish. Belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant icy gully climb. The second crux pitch goes at sustained mixed V 6 if the ice-fall isn't fully formed, or climb Clogwyn Central.

Ticklists

Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Cold Climbs (slimmed down)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
mattnuttall 3 Feb AltLd O/S This was plan B... good route though. Enough ice, not loads and by about 3pm dripping quite a lot... turbothaw maybe to do with the strong southerly wind. By 4:30 bottom of crag was Black and snow very wet.
This was plan B... good route though. Enough ice, not loads and by about 3pm dripping quite a lot... turbothaw maybe to do with the strong southerly wind. By 4:30 bottom of crag was Black and snow very wet.
ftocher 2 Feb AltLd
tradisrad 2 Feb AltLd rpt Led the crux pitch.
with ftocher
Led the crux pitch.
with ftocher
wolf.leeb 1 Feb AltLd rpt Central groove to finish.. thin verglas hooks and wild conditions topping out.. full tick. Felt like VI to me.
with Underhill
Central groove to finish.. thin verglas hooks and wild conditions topping out.. full tick. Felt like VI to me.
with Underhill
jamieevans 28 Jan AltLd O/S 2nd pitch is thin on ice, good mixed up the chimney and a nervy traverse back left. Bulldogs would have helped. Did the central chimney groove to finish which looked okay but was actually a desperate thrutch. V entertaining nonetheless!
2nd pitch is thin on ice, good mixed up the chimney and a nervy traverse back left. Bulldogs would have helped. Did the central chimney groove to finish which looked okay but was actually a desperate thrutch. V entertaining nonetheless!
tradisrad 8 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Soloed P1, I led P2 and James led P3 + P4. Nice route, but definitely closer to V then IV, in my opinion.
Soloed P1, I led P2 and James led P3 + P4. Nice route, but definitely closer to V then IV, in my opinion.
James Rigby 8 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S P1- solo P2- second (pretty impressive lead by ross) P3/4- lead with some interesting mixed sections about 4
P1- solo P2- second (pretty impressive lead by ross) P3/4- lead with some interesting mixed sections about 4
Flavio 4 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S V 6 mixed variant. Proper thrutchy, really enjoyable. Bit of a waste in those conditions but I only own 2 screws and had placed one already!
V 6 mixed variant. Proper thrutchy, really enjoyable. Bit of a waste in those conditions but I only own 2 screws and had placed one already!
Michael Bortoluzzi 4 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Mega! Brilliant lead by Deema on the crux pitch, ice was so good he did almost the entire pitch on it, avoiding most of the bridging and mixed climbing. Nice thuggy mixed climbing on sinker hooks on the top pitches, nice contrast. P1: 2nd, then solo up and down at the end of the day to retrieve the ice screw I dropped... P2: 2nd P3&4: Lead as one pitch (finished P2 a bit higher than normal I think so plenty of rope) Buzzing at the top and all the way down!
with Deema Mozayen
Mega! Brilliant lead by Deema on the crux pitch, ice was so good he did almost the entire pitch on it, avoiding most of the bridging and mixed climbing. Nice thuggy mixed climbing on sinker hooks on the top pitches, nice contrast. P1: 2nd, then solo up and down at the end of the day to retrieve the ice screw I dropped... P2: 2nd P3&4: Lead as one pitch (finished P2 a bit higher than normal I think so plenty of rope) Buzzing at the top and all the way down!
with Deema Mozayen
Hidden 4 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 4 Mar, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hidden 3 Mar, 2018 Lead
Hidden 3 Mar, 2018 2nd
Hidden 1 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
peter.herd 28 Feb, 2018 AltLd Night time after work. Bit ming, -8 and blowy. Cool route tho!
with Brad Reed
Night time after work. Bit ming, -8 and blowy. Cool route tho!
with Brad Reed
Treeby 25 Feb, 2018 Lead Very brittle ice. Thin on the main pitch.
with Liam White
Very brittle ice. Thin on the main pitch.
with Liam White
robgixer 17 Feb, 2018 Lead rpt Great condition despite being above freezing. V 5 and not hooked out at all.
Great condition despite being above freezing. V 5 and not hooked out at all.
CharleyAnn 17 Feb, 2018 2nd
tc7118 17 Feb, 2018 2nd
James Beaumont 16 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Fantastic day out with the Williams, unexpected connies, the 2nd pitch had some steep fat ice which gave a decent pump and felt about V 5, the corner pitch we did as the last pitch felt a touch harder tbh but likely due to the ice being thinner and more insecure. Great scenes
with James Williams
Fantastic day out with the Williams, unexpected connies, the 2nd pitch had some steep fat ice which gave a decent pump and felt about V 5, the corner pitch we did as the last pitch felt a touch harder tbh but likely due to the ice being thinner and more insecure. Great scenes
with James Williams
JamesWilliams 16 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Mega route. Soled the easy pitch up the start of the gully. Lead the phat ice pitches 2 and 4 (steep middle ice corner pitch) both felt V 5 as they were steep sustained and not hooked out at all, which was really nice. First full on ice route as well so happy to feel steady on it. Should of taken more screws only had 3 so had to run it out but plenty of rock bits around the side of the ice. Go day out with bow
Mega route. Soled the easy pitch up the start of the gully. Lead the phat ice pitches 2 and 4 (steep middle ice corner pitch) both felt V 5 as they were steep sustained and not hooked out at all, which was really nice. First full on ice route as well so happy to feel steady on it. Should of taken more screws only had 3 so had to run it out but plenty of rock bits around the side of the ice. Go day out with bow
James-m-h 5 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Climbed the mixed version great route as there's a bit of everything on it first v 6 second and first v 4 lead (I did top pitch)
with joedean
Climbed the mixed version great route as there's a bit of everything on it first v 6 second and first v 4 lead (I did top pitch)
with joedean
Hidden ??, 2018 Solo
Hidden 16 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Dec, 2017 AltLd
Pete_Frost 15 Dec, 2017 AltLd rpt Nearly couldn't find the crag in the fog! Hoped to do the 6 but found more of a 4 instead. The ice was dripping but plastic. A rope thread and a couple of nests of tat are in situ on the grade 6 line and they might even hold a fall, which was just as well because the better cracks were full of ice. Finished directly through the roof of the pitch 3 belay "cave" rather than turning left up the ramp.
with Chris Brooks
Nearly couldn't find the crag in the fog! Hoped to do the 6 but found more of a 4 instead. The ice was dripping but plastic. A rope thread and a couple of nests of tat are in situ on the grade 6 line and they might even hold a fall, which was just as well because the better cracks were full of ice. Finished directly through the roof of the pitch 3 belay "cave" rather than turning left up the ramp.
with Chris Brooks
danJBA 14 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S
with Dan Brockwell, GregHood
with Dan Brockwell, GregHood
GregHood 14 Dec, 2017 2nd First proper winter climb. Enjoyed the first pitch from the diagonal boulder. The vertical ice bit felt exposed. Then a case of hot aches at the top of this made it less enjoyable. The last chimney bit was daunting but not as bad as it first looked. Followed Dan and Dan the whole way up. No idea on grades as nothing to compare it to.
First proper winter climb. Enjoyed the first pitch from the diagonal boulder. The vertical ice bit felt exposed. Then a case of hot aches at the top of this made it less enjoyable. The last chimney bit was daunting but not as bad as it first looked. Followed Dan and Dan the whole way up. No idea on grades as nothing to compare it to.
geoff b 12 Dec, 2017 AltLd rpt In excellent condition with great placements pretty much every time. We even managed to use full length ice-screws! Rod got the big pitch (P2) & we finished up to the left this time.
with Rod W
In excellent condition with great placements pretty much every time. We even managed to use full length ice-screws! Rod got the big pitch (P2) & we finished up to the left this time.
with Rod W
ernieb182 11 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
wolf.leeb 11 Dec, 2017 AltLd rpt V 5 today, thin, but stayed on ice all the way. top was phat as usual. Need to walk more.. callum and John climbed travesty and followed us up this in less time :|
V 5 today, thin, but stayed on ice all the way. top was phat as usual. Need to walk more.. callum and John climbed travesty and followed us up this in less time :|
jethro kiernan 8 Mar, 2016 AltLd rpt final days of winter
final days of winter
davebrox 18 Feb, 2016 AltLd rpt solo first grade 2 pitch, led the second ice pitch (thin) and the last pitch. All under glorious blue skies!
with Lee
solo first grade 2 pitch, led the second ice pitch (thin) and the last pitch. All under glorious blue skies!
with Lee
Mr. K 13 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Thin, mixed conditions and deserving of V, 6. We soloed the first grade II pitch to the base of the icefall. I lead an initial bold mixed pitch, about V, 5 to a belay in a chimney to the right of the main icefall. The mixed pitch up the chimney then across left on the icefall was a thin V, 6 with the crux being the squeeze chimney to gain the corner before questing left across the thin ice. Pete continued this pitch up some grade III steps to belay in a comfortable bay on the right. I lead the final pitch of moderate ground up to a steep/overhanding chimney on the right which felt about IV, 4. An awesome day out under blue skies with good visibility and very little wind, amazing we had the crag to ourselves! I think the rugby might have had something to do with it! There was plenty of ice around but not enough for screws. Bulldogs would be useful and I wished I'd brought a second one. Some turf was frozen, some wasn't but that was easy to avoid. There was a surprising amount of in situ tat about, I guess people have bailed off the route a few times!
with figfour
Thin, mixed conditions and deserving of V, 6. We soloed the first grade II pitch to the base of the icefall. I lead an initial bold mixed pitch, about V, 5 to a belay in a chimney to the right of the main icefall. The mixed pitch up the chimney then across left on the icefall was a thin V, 6 with the crux being the squeeze chimney to gain the corner before questing left across the thin ice. Pete continued this pitch up some grade III steps to belay in a comfortable bay on the right. I lead the final pitch of moderate ground up to a steep/overhanding chimney on the right which felt about IV, 4. An awesome day out under blue skies with good visibility and very little wind, amazing we had the crag to ourselves! I think the rugby might have had something to do with it! There was plenty of ice around but not enough for screws. Bulldogs would be useful and I wished I'd brought a second one. Some turf was frozen, some wasn't but that was easy to avoid. There was a surprising amount of in situ tat about, I guess people have bailed off the route a few times!
with figfour
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
andy dunn 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Psycho_Delta, J
with Psycho_Delta, J
Cuillin Calling 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd Main icefall very stepped so Gd IV today. Top pitch crumbling away, did the excellent ice on variation left finish instead.
Main icefall very stepped so Gd IV today. Top pitch crumbling away, did the excellent ice on variation left finish instead.
steveb2006 10 Feb, 2015 Lead 21 years since last did this - good ice all the way. Stunning cloud inversion on top
21 years since last did this - good ice all the way. Stunning cloud inversion on top
Hidden 9 Feb, 2015 AltLd
Andrew Sloan 8 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Led 2nd and 4th pitches. Did variant finish to the left of the original chimney finish.......thin melting ice and a delicate pull over the ice mushroom at the top....sporty, about tech 6! A brilliant route on a glorious winter day.
with Steve Grove
Led 2nd and 4th pitches. Did variant finish to the left of the original chimney finish.......thin melting ice and a delicate pull over the ice mushroom at the top....sporty, about tech 6! A brilliant route on a glorious winter day.
with Steve Grove
Rachel Slater 7 Feb, 2015 2nd O/S
Joris.Roulleau 7 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S lovely route, good ice (soft at the top). Finished up the ice on the left, which was way more logical than the chimney.
with Richard Lizzimore
lovely route, good ice (soft at the top). Finished up the ice on the left, which was way more logical than the chimney.
with Richard Lizzimore
Nick Russell 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Like climbing a ladder, properly hooked out from being gangbanged for the past week or two. Not grade V in that condition.
Like climbing a ladder, properly hooked out from being gangbanged for the past week or two. Not grade V in that condition.
Pete_Frost 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd rpt Led P2 on perfect ice this time. Took a direct line and found ice as good as any I'd climbed in Rjukan.
with Anthony Eccles
Led P2 on perfect ice this time. Took a direct line and found ice as good as any I'd climbed in Rjukan.
with Anthony Eccles
9fingerjon 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
alastairbegley 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Fantastic conditions but completely hooked out. Grade IV in current conditions.
Fantastic conditions but completely hooked out. Grade IV in current conditions.
highclimber 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd dog I did P1 and P3. fell on second on the ice (which is hooked to hell at th moment) when my axe popped while try to remove a screw. Top route but busy today.
I did P1 and P3. fell on second on the ice (which is hooked to hell at th moment) when my axe popped while try to remove a screw. Top route but busy today.
tim newton 7 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
ianstevens 6 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Good ice low down, but more steps than a ladder. Still no walkover however, and the ice is a little brittle further up. Utterly spiffing route, deserves each and every star.
Good ice low down, but more steps than a ladder. Still no walkover however, and the ice is a little brittle further up. Utterly spiffing route, deserves each and every star.
Hidden 5 Feb, 2015 2nd
Rob84 5 Feb, 2015 Lead
with Pidg
with Pidg
Hidden 4 Feb, 2015 AltLd
mynyddresident 4 Feb, 2015 AltLd rpt
with wolf
with wolf
robgixer 4 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S good ice all the way. started at the bottom of the ice and climbed in 2 pitches.
good ice all the way. started at the bottom of the ice and climbed in 2 pitches.
wolf.leeb 4 Feb, 2015 AltLd rpt
Hidden 3 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
cymjt 2 Feb, 2015 - Unfortuntely We had to bail back down clogwyn left hand branch on Clogwyn Du yesterday in darkness...we left 2 anchors behind...one sling on a large thread low down, and then a nut/hex belay (with sling) above one of the steep pitches (not sure which one, it was dark!) Im not entirely expecting to see it again, but if some kind soul would like to return it, then I'd happily buy you a pint or two/donate to MR/NWBF/whatever you want... Thanks!
Unfortuntely We had to bail back down clogwyn left hand branch on Clogwyn Du yesterday in darkness...we left 2 anchors behind...one sling on a large thread low down, and then a nut/hex belay (with sling) above one of the steep pitches (not sure which one, it was dark!) Im not entirely expecting to see it again, but if some kind soul would like to return it, then I'd happily buy you a pint or two/donate to MR/NWBF/whatever you want... Thanks!
stratandrew 1 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Brilliant route, great fun. Icefall in great Nick: A 45m P1 (starting a little higher up the gully) and a very long P2.
with gw3285
Brilliant route, great fun. Icefall in great Nick: A 45m P1 (starting a little higher up the gully) and a very long P2.
with gw3285
The Grist 1 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Helen harrison, Nick Allsop
with Helen harrison, Nick Allsop
Hidden 31 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
kenneM 30 Jan, 2015 AltLd In pretty good condition. Main pitch has plenty of ice but still kept as right as possible by the draw of the rock gear. Next pitch was excellent with first time placements!
with Steve Marner, Carl Davies
In pretty good condition. Main pitch has plenty of ice but still kept as right as possible by the draw of the rock gear. Next pitch was excellent with first time placements!
with Steve Marner, Carl Davies
Hidden 25 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Jan, 2015 2nd
lost.arrow 24 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Getting up at 06.00 would have put us first or second. Instead we were fourth, more than an hour waiting. Not a bad spot to wait. Glad I brought my pack could wear duvet jacket and drink hot coffee. The ice was thick and Stu got the plum second pitch. This and the following we pitched. The second pitch took three slings, two being in situ, missed out the in situ wire, a friend and then ice screw. On my turn had to wait a while before I could start. Limited belay options at top? The ice was accommodating with natural hook options and steps not to mention prior axe holes. Less so at the crux, stepping around a bulge. Up to a sling then the stance with three people on it. Rounded ice falls follow. I opt to go ASAP taking in the unused left side. I grab the bandoleer, which later to my discomfort, I find has enough pro but not all the draws. The falls take two ice screws and two bulldogs. Could have placed more using reworked slings and crabs. Once over the falls it's slabby ice-snow to the boulder belay at the top with not much spare on the sixties.
with Stu Sherwood
Getting up at 06.00 would have put us first or second. Instead we were fourth, more than an hour waiting. Not a bad spot to wait. Glad I brought my pack could wear duvet jacket and drink hot coffee. The ice was thick and Stu got the plum second pitch. This and the following we pitched. The second pitch took three slings, two being in situ, missed out the in situ wire, a friend and then ice screw. On my turn had to wait a while before I could start. Limited belay options at top? The ice was accommodating with natural hook options and steps not to mention prior axe holes. Less so at the crux, stepping around a bulge. Up to a sling then the stance with three people on it. Rounded ice falls follow. I opt to go ASAP taking in the unused left side. I grab the bandoleer, which later to my discomfort, I find has enough pro but not all the draws. The falls take two ice screws and two bulldogs. Could have placed more using reworked slings and crabs. Once over the falls it's slabby ice-snow to the boulder belay at the top with not much spare on the sixties.
with Stu Sherwood
tom.e 22 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
with Claire
with Claire
breed 19 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 19 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S I lead 2nd pitch. Brad lead a brilliant finihing pitch up a pitch up ice on th left
with Brad
I lead 2nd pitch. Brad lead a brilliant finihing pitch up a pitch up ice on th left
with Brad
AB1965 ??, 2015 AltLd Excellent conditions, blue sky, no wind. Great lead Bob
with Bob Johnson
Excellent conditions, blue sky, no wind. Great lead Bob
with Bob Johnson
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
tskelhon ?May, 2013 AltLd O/S No ice had formed - had to take mixed line at 6
No ice had formed - had to take mixed line at 6
clmacdonald ?May, 2013 AltLd
Pete_Frost 8 Apr, 2013 AltLd Ice a bit thin so Kin led grade 6 pitch. Ran final two pitches together - slightly too long for 60m rope but moved together on easy terrain until big flake belay could be reached.
Ice a bit thin so Kin led grade 6 pitch. Ran final two pitches together - slightly too long for 60m rope but moved together on easy terrain until big flake belay could be reached.
Skinny Kin 8 Apr, 2013 AltLd dog I fell off near the top of the chimney on the crux pitch as something snapped out on the L pick (probably some turf I managed to see). Gear (in situ, loads of them) was so good. I got back straight onto it. I led it clean the second time. Brilliant dry tooling. The best winter lead I had. Truely deserves a grade 6 and 3 stars.
with Pete Frost
I fell off near the top of the chimney on the crux pitch as something snapped out on the L pick (probably some turf I managed to see). Gear (in situ, loads of them) was so good. I got back straight onto it. I led it clean the second time. Brilliant dry tooling. The best winter lead I had. Truely deserves a grade 6 and 3 stars.
with Pete Frost
mikeyjbs 4 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
with mike moss
with mike moss
mike.moss 4 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd
Olli-C 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Split the main pitch so Andy lead the mixed bit and belayed half way up the chimney where the ice got fat. Liam lead the ice and I lead the top pitch, not sure if it was the top pitch of this route or the top pitch of pillar chimney. My hardest winter lead. Was great fun.
with Andy Hall, Liam Brown
Split the main pitch so Andy lead the mixed bit and belayed half way up the chimney where the ice got fat. Liam lead the ice and I lead the top pitch, not sure if it was the top pitch of this route or the top pitch of pillar chimney. My hardest winter lead. Was great fun.
with Andy Hall, Liam Brown
Hidden 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
steveboote ?Mar, 2013 AltLd With Vic Belshaw
With Vic Belshaw
TimJ 27 Feb, 2013 - Still in excellent condition
Still in excellent condition
Hidden 24 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
manxclare 24 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S thick and hard ice .. fabulous conditions....great company
with jon22
thick and hard ice .. fabulous conditions....great company
with jon22
John sealey 24 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 24 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Great Ice, climbed Left of 2 chimneys at top on thin ice. Great Day
with Tony Ball
Great Ice, climbed Left of 2 chimneys at top on thin ice. Great Day
with Tony Ball
Mr-Cowdrey 23 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Tim led the crux pitch via the 6 variation. I strung together the last 2 pitches. Solid ice and bomber neve. Fantastic route done in proper winter conditions
Tim led the crux pitch via the 6 variation. I strung together the last 2 pitches. Solid ice and bomber neve. Fantastic route done in proper winter conditions
kelliroberts3 26 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
with merlin march, Pete Rigby
with merlin march, Pete Rigby
Neil D 26 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Mixed condition V,6. Sam led crux.
Mixed condition V,6. Sam led crux.
Pete Rigby 26 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S
with Merlin March, Kelli Roberts
with Merlin March, Kelli Roberts
Tom Livingstone 22 Jan, 2013 Lead rpt P1 and P4
with JezH
P1 and P4
with JezH
industrialiceman 20 Jan, 2013 -
tsl42 19 Jan, 2013 2nd dog Andy led it hall. Burly middle pitch.
with Liam Brown, Andy mumc
Andy led it hall. Burly middle pitch.
with Liam Brown, Andy mumc
Hidden 19 Jan, 2013 2nd
clams ?Jan, 2013 2nd
with PR&K
with PR&K
Tom Livingstone 13 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S Led all pitches, cheers Pete! Took mixed variation and then middle top gully
Led all pitches, cheers Pete! Took mixed variation and then middle top gully
Owain Llewelyn 12 Dec, 2012 AltLd Mixed variation on p1 and middle finish. Brilliant.
with Gareth E
Mixed variation on p1 and middle finish. Brilliant.
with Gareth E
Jack.H.92 3 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Glyn 3 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Climbed V 6 mixed 2nd pitch. Ice was better higher up, moved left and finished up easy ramp. Plenty of sun and blue skies
with Tom Skelhon
Climbed V 6 mixed 2nd pitch. Ice was better higher up, moved left and finished up easy ramp. Plenty of sun and blue skies
with Tom Skelhon
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Luke Brooks ??, 2011 -
adie84 ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 24 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
jparry75 24 Dec, 2010 AltLd
with m.evans
with m.evans
Hidden 22 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 22 Dec, 2010 AltLd Waited a long while to be at the crag with the ice there. Absolutely superb.
with Adam
Waited a long while to be at the crag with the ice there. Absolutely superb.
with Adam
timjones 21 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Neil McLean
with Neil McLean
mynyddresident 20 Dec, 2010 - Becoming tradition for me . Wee bit cruddy in places and prob nearer tech 4 than 5 today.
with wolf
Becoming tradition for me . Wee bit cruddy in places and prob nearer tech 4 than 5 today.
with wolf
wolf.leeb 20 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S 1st proper ice route, ace.. apart from agonising hot aches, no one told me about that shit.
1st proper ice route, ace.. apart from agonising hot aches, no one told me about that shit.
Adam Booth 19 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Finished it! Stunning day, great climb.
with Tom Jumar, Misha
Finished it! Stunning day, great climb.
with Tom Jumar, Misha
Misha 19 Dec, 2010 2nd 2hrs to slog up through shin to knee deep snow, a guy from another team kindly broke trail. Had to swim up the approach gully. Tom made short work of P1, which wasn't particularly hard but thinner than when Phil, Ian and I did it last Feb. I carelessly came off seconding just as was about to pull round onto the ice after removing the last bit of gear in the corner - had a dodgy placement, thought might as well carry on and the axe ripped or slipped off as I swung the other one. Embarassing! Not the kind of thing I would have done on lead. Adam finished up great plastic ice on the fat second pitch, taking the leftward rising icefall and then a bit of ice on the right to the top (think I did that bit to finish Pillar Chimney). A top day even though had done the route before. For the first time ever, walked out the same way as we had come in as just followed our tracks.
with Adam Booth, Tom
2hrs to slog up through shin to knee deep snow, a guy from another team kindly broke trail. Had to swim up the approach gully. Tom made short work of P1, which wasn't particularly hard but thinner than when Phil, Ian and I did it last Feb. I carelessly came off seconding just as was about to pull round onto the ice after removing the last bit of gear in the corner - had a dodgy placement, thought might as well carry on and the axe ripped or slipped off as I swung the other one. Embarassing! Not the kind of thing I would have done on lead. Adam finished up great plastic ice on the fat second pitch, taking the leftward rising icefall and then a bit of ice on the right to the top (think I did that bit to finish Pillar Chimney). A top day even though had done the route before. For the first time ever, walked out the same way as we had come in as just followed our tracks.
with Adam Booth, Tom
Adam Booth 17 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S Took hours to even get to the route through deep powder, so rapped off nr top of first main pitch. Awesome climbing all the same!
Took hours to even get to the route through deep powder, so rapped off nr top of first main pitch. Awesome climbing all the same!
Ed Booth 17 Dec, 2010 2nd
Hidden ?Dec, 2010 AltLd
Tommy Harris ?Dec, 2010 Lead O/S not sure what the grade is but flanked off right just before tatt and joined top half of right hand direct.
with phillip belcher
not sure what the grade is but flanked off right just before tatt and joined top half of right hand direct.
with phillip belcher
masa-alpin 14 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S A superb and top-quality route! Interests are really sustained, from ice to mix! The P2 crux ice pitch was thin; 10cm maximum for screws in less than perfect ice. Took the direct chimney finish.
with Tom H
A superb and top-quality route! Interests are really sustained, from ice to mix! The P2 crux ice pitch was thin; 10cm maximum for screws in less than perfect ice. Took the direct chimney finish.
with Tom H
lithos 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd Quality climbing throughout, felt super confident on it , I thought the ice was fine, got a few ok screws in but was really happy and moved quickly. Should do it in 2 pitches, belaying in the gully RH (good nuts) after the chockstone. We took the huge icefall finish as it looked so good - and it was
Quality climbing throughout, felt super confident on it , I thought the ice was fine, got a few ok screws in but was really happy and moved quickly. Should do it in 2 pitches, belaying in the gully RH (good nuts) after the chockstone. We took the huge icefall finish as it looked so good - and it was
Simon Caldwell 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd Soloed the first pitch, I led the prize pitch, C did the chockstone pitch, then I finished up the fantastic ice on the left. A brilliant climb, in perfect condition.
with Lemming
Soloed the first pitch, I led the prize pitch, C did the chockstone pitch, then I finished up the fantastic ice on the left. A brilliant climb, in perfect condition.
with Lemming
BorisVBlade 13 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S most of the ice very thin. Not many screw placements.
with Guillaume Billardon
most of the ice very thin. Not many screw placements.
with Guillaume Billardon
Will Smith 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Soloed to bottom of main pitch. Rob then led with surprising ease and only two screws. What a pitch! Steep and thin but brilliant positioned and very atmospheric in the mist. I led over the chockstone and then after a bit of faffing with belays continued to lead to the top over the top-class icefall to finish.
with lithos
Soloed to bottom of main pitch. Rob then led with surprising ease and only two screws. What a pitch! Steep and thin but brilliant positioned and very atmospheric in the mist. I led over the chockstone and then after a bit of faffing with belays continued to lead to the top over the top-class icefall to finish.
with lithos
TimPerkin 8 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Colin Beechey
with Colin Beechey
Hidden 7 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Mar, 2010 AltLd rpt
emlynroberts 6 Mar, 2010 2nd Soloed to the ice pitch, Fell off at top of steep section on next pitch, so had to climb it again! At my limit!
with Nigel Milner
Soloed to the ice pitch, Fell off at top of steep section on next pitch, so had to climb it again! At my limit!
with Nigel Milner
Hidden 6 Mar, 2010 -
Hidden 26 Feb, 2010 AltLd
spidey 20 Feb, 2010 AltLd first on route! 1 hr 20 min walk in! both led first pitch (2) jim led second and third in one pitch (5/6 and 4) i led last (4) 3 stars!
first on route! 1 hr 20 min walk in! both led first pitch (2) jim led second and third in one pitch (5/6 and 4) i led last (4) 3 stars!
crossdressingrodney 20 Feb, 2010 2nd O/S Terrifying & exhilerating! My walking crampons popped off on the first (easy) pitch. After fixing them back together with a sling, Alex led the crux pitch under showers of icicles and snow knocked down from above. Finished the route just as the last of the light faded and down-climbed an easy gully by the light of the moon.
with AlexM
Terrifying & exhilerating! My walking crampons popped off on the first (easy) pitch. After fixing them back together with a sling, Alex led the crux pitch under showers of icicles and snow knocked down from above. Finished the route just as the last of the light faded and down-climbed an easy gully by the light of the moon.
with AlexM
Hidden 20 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
RachelP 18 Feb, 2010 2nd reliably informed this is a grade V Geth and i went the mega hard way :S
with Geth, JamieH
reliably informed this is a grade V Geth and i went the mega hard way :S
with Geth, JamieH
Daniel Wicks 14 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S thin, no ice near any insitu gear
with np134
thin, no ice near any insitu gear
with np134
np134 14 Feb, 2010 2nd
Misha 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Did in two pitches. Good lead by Phil on the steep ice of P1 with an entertaining mixed start. I did the direct narrow gully finish, with the crux being a few moves on thin ice to get round a hanging chandelier - fortunately there was a good nut not too far below! Excellent route which was in good condition, the only issue was that the ice was a bit brittle so while Phil was leading there was a fair bit of debris coming down from a couple of teams above.
with Ian W, philhilo
Did in two pitches. Good lead by Phil on the steep ice of P1 with an entertaining mixed start. I did the direct narrow gully finish, with the crux being a few moves on thin ice to get round a hanging chandelier - fortunately there was a good nut not too far below! Excellent route which was in good condition, the only issue was that the ice was a bit brittle so while Phil was leading there was a fair bit of debris coming down from a couple of teams above.
with Ian W, philhilo
philhilo 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead the main pitch, good steep ice. Misha took top, short and thin.
with Misha, ian wyatt
Lead the main pitch, good steep ice. Misha took top, short and thin.
with Misha, ian wyatt
AB1965 12 Feb, 2010 Lead Excellent climbing through out. Tricky step left but v good gear.
Excellent climbing through out. Tricky step left but v good gear.
Dave Heaton 12 Feb, 2010 AltLd I lead crux pitch
I lead crux pitch
Hidden 11 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
frost 7 Feb, 2010 AltLd
with D Garry
with D Garry
geoff b 7 Feb, 2010 AltLd Brilliant route just in condition on the crux section. 2nd time I'd gone up there to find it. We were first in line on a busy day & were followed by at least 2 other parties. Did a direct finish at the top up a narrow groove & steep slab thinly glazed with ice at V5, between the 2 usual finishes.
with Jon Byrne
Brilliant route just in condition on the crux section. 2nd time I'd gone up there to find it. We were first in line on a busy day & were followed by at least 2 other parties. Did a direct finish at the top up a narrow groove & steep slab thinly glazed with ice at V5, between the 2 usual finishes.
with Jon Byrne
mux 7 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with frost
with frost
mynyddresident ?Feb, 2010 -
with geraint
with geraint
mynyddresident ?Feb, 2010 AltLd
with liam
with liam
Hidden 31 Jan, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 31 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 AltLd
Mark Reeves ??, 2010 Lead dog Way harder than it looks when not all ice. In mixed conditions it is more VI. Had to rest on peg and send mate up it!
Way harder than it looks when not all ice. In mixed conditions it is more VI. Had to rest on peg and send mate up it!
Hidden 24 Dec, 2009 AltLd dog
stevebarratt 24 Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S Very little ice. V 6
with JadeL
Very little ice. V 6
with JadeL
Karlos 10 Feb, 2009 AltLd Soloed snow gully to beneath the chimney. Led half of second pitch but kept on mixed stuff in chimney due to thin conditions. Belayed at split in the gully. Seconded top part of pitch 2 in thin conditions. Led final snow gully and mixed climbed out of final chinmey in near darkness. Thought this route was often in - felt thin throughout to me?
with Tom
Soloed snow gully to beneath the chimney. Led half of second pitch but kept on mixed stuff in chimney due to thin conditions. Belayed at split in the gully. Seconded top part of pitch 2 in thin conditions. Led final snow gully and mixed climbed out of final chinmey in near darkness. Thought this route was often in - felt thin throughout to me?
with Tom
jcurley 5 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S Mike led the pitch of 4. Excellent climb in great condition.
with FedUp
Mike led the pitch of 4. Excellent climb in great condition.
with FedUp
mynyddresident ?Feb, 2009 AltLd
Hidden ?Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
davebrox ??, 2009 AltLd Paul James
Paul James
zero six ??, 2009 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt ??, 2008 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Tim W 6 Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Myles Jordan
with Myles Jordan
Happy Wanderer 5 Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S Ice was as thick as the skin on my chattering teeth on P2! Led P1 & P3
with Ken T
Ice was as thick as the skin on my chattering teeth on P2! Led P1 & P3
with Ken T
Neil McA 27 Feb, 2005 Lead O/S Excellent. hard and thin, tech 6 on the day.
with Ivan Green
Excellent. hard and thin, tech 6 on the day.
with Ivan Green
Tom M Williams ?Jan, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Pete ?
with Pete ?
keith leonard ??, 2005 -
with steve mead
with steve mead
Hidden ?Mar, 2004 Lead O/S
phardman 2 Mar, 1996 Solo
phardman ?Feb, 1996 -
michael burrows 24 Dec, 1995 AltLd O/S
with steve ward
with steve ward
Hidden 20 Feb, 1994 AltLd
Hidden 20 Feb, 1994 Lead O/S
MikePycroft 13 Feb, 1994 AltLd
MikePycroft 13 Feb, 1994 AltLd
steveb2006 13 Feb, 1994 AltLd A return to this great climb after a retreat from a totally bear black ladders. There seems to be more snow up here than anywhere else. Again good ice on the main pitch and above.
A return to this great climb after a retreat from a totally bear black ladders. There seems to be more snow up here than anywhere else. Again good ice on the main pitch and above.
Hidden ??, 1993 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 12 Jan, 1991 Lead
with Andy W
with Andy W
steveb2006 21 Dec, 1986 Lead Great climb with plenty of steep ice
with Mervyn Dudley
Great climb with plenty of steep ice
with Mervyn Dudley
Martin Haworth ?Feb, 1982 AltLd O/S
with Dave Snowden
with Dave Snowden
nniff ?Jan, 1982 -
nniff ?Jan, 1982 -
nniff ?Jan, 1982 -
Tim Sparrow ?Jan, 1982 -
with nniff
with nniff
nniff ?Jan, 1982 -
Tim Sparrow ??, 1982 -
with nniff, Ian Owen
with nniff, Ian Owen
Hidden 1 Jan, 1980 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin ?Feb, 1978 AltLd O/S
with Dave Winter
with Dave Winter
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 20
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set