125m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route with a tough and steep second pitch. The more ice the better
1) 2, 30m. Follow the gully until it closes in. Belay below an icy left-wall
2) 5, 30m. The chimney is overcome by strenuous bridging and then a step onto the left wall proper. Climb this to a good belay
3) 3, 35m. Climb over the large chockstone and belay beneath the final exit chimney
4) 3, 30m. Climb the chimney and a steep snow slope to finish. Belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant icy gully climb. The second crux pitch goes at sustained mixed V 6 if the ice-fall isn't fully formed, or climb Clogwyn Central.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Cold Climbs (slimmed down).

tradisrad 08/Mar AltLd O/S

Soloed P1, I led P2 and James led P3 + P4. Nice route, but definitely closer to V then IV, in my opinion.

James Rigby 08/Mar AltLd O/S

P1- solo P2- second (pretty impressive lead by ross) P3/4- lead with some interesting mixed sections about 4

Flavio 04/Mar Lead O/S

V 6 mixed variant. Proper thrutchy, really enjoyable. Bit of a waste in those conditions but I only own 2 screws and had placed one already!

Michael Bortoluzzi 04/Mar AltLd O/S

Mega! Brilliant lead by Deema on the crux pitch, ice was so good he did almost the entire pitch on it, avoiding most of the bridging and mixed climbing. Nice thuggy mixed climbing on sinker hooks on the top pitches, nice contrast. P1: 2nd, then solo up and down at the end of the day to retrieve the ice screw I dropped... P2: 2nd P3&4: Lead as one pitch (finished P2 a bit higher than normal I think so plenty of rope) Buzzing at the top and all the way down!

with Deema Mozayen
Hidden 04/Mar AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 04/Mar 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Hidden 03/Mar Lead
Hidden 03/Mar 2nd
Hidden 01/Mar AltLd O/S
peter.herd 28/Feb AltLd

Night time after work. Bit ming, -8 and blowy. Cool route tho!

with Brad Reed
Treeby 25/Feb Lead

Very brittle ice. Thin on the main pitch.

with Liam White
robgixer 17/Feb Lead rpt

Great condition despite being above freezing. V 5 and not hooked out at all.

CharleyAnn 17/Feb 2nd
tc7118 17/Feb 2nd
James Beaumont 16/Feb AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out with the Williams, unexpected connies, the 2nd pitch had some steep fat ice which gave a decent pump and felt about V 5, the corner pitch we did as the last pitch felt a touch harder tbh but likely due to the ice being thinner and more insecure. Great scenes

with James Williams
JamesWilliams 16/Feb AltLd O/S

Mega route. Soled the easy pitch up the start of the gully. Lead the phat ice pitches 2 and 4 (steep middle ice corner pitch) both felt V 5 as they were steep sustained and not hooked out at all, which was really nice. First full on ice route as well so happy to feel steady on it. Should of taken more screws only had 3 so had to run it out but plenty of rock bits around the side of the ice. Go day out with bow

James-m-h 05/Feb AltLd O/S

Climbed the mixed version great route as there's a bit of everything on it first v 6 second and first v 4 lead (I did top pitch)

with joedean
Hidden 16/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Dec/17 AltLd
Pete_Frost 15/Dec/17 AltLd rpt

Nearly couldn't find the crag in the fog! Hoped to do the 6 but found more of a 4 instead. The ice was dripping but plastic. A rope thread and a couple of nests of tat are in situ on the grade 6 line and they might even hold a fall, which was just as well because the better cracks were full of ice. Finished directly through the roof of the pitch 3 belay "cave" rather than turning left up the ramp.

with Chris Brooks
danJBA 14/Dec/17 Lead O/S
with Dan Brockwell, GregHood
GregHood 14/Dec/17 2nd

First proper winter climb. Enjoyed the first pitch from the diagonal boulder. The vertical ice bit felt exposed. Then a case of hot aches at the top of this made it less enjoyable. The last chimney bit was daunting but not as bad as it first looked. Followed Dan and Dan the whole way up. No idea on grades as nothing to compare it to.

geoff b 12/Dec/17 AltLd rpt

In excellent condition with great placements pretty much every time. We even managed to use full length ice-screws! Rod got the big pitch (P2) & we finished up to the left this time.

with Rod W
ernieb182 11/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
wolf.leeb 11/Dec/17 AltLd rpt

V 5 today, thin, but stayed on ice all the way. top was phat as usual. Need to walk more.. callum and John climbed travesty and followed us up this in less time :|

jethro kiernan 08/Mar/16 AltLd rpt

final days of winter

davebrox 18/Feb/16 AltLd rpt

solo first grade 2 pitch, led the second ice pitch (thin) and the last pitch. All under glorious blue skies!

with Lee
Mr. K 13/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Thin, mixed conditions and deserving of V, 6. We soloed the first grade II pitch to the base of the icefall. I lead an initial bold mixed pitch, about V, 5 to a belay in a chimney to the right of the main icefall. The mixed pitch up the chimney then across left on the icefall was a thin V, 6 with the crux being the squeeze chimney to gain the corner before questing left across the thin ice. Pete continued this pitch up some grade III steps to belay in a comfortable bay on the right. I lead the final pitch of moderate ground up to a steep/overhanding chimney on the right which felt about IV, 4. An awesome day out under blue skies with good visibility and very little wind, amazing we had the crag to ourselves! I think the rugby might have had something to do with it! There was plenty of ice around but not enough for screws. Bulldogs would be useful and I wished I'd brought a second one. Some turf was frozen, some wasn't but that was easy to avoid. There was a surprising amount of in situ tat about, I guess people have bailed off the route a few times!

with figfour
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
andy dunn 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Psycho_Delta, J
Cuillin Calling 14/Feb/15 AltLd

Main icefall very stepped so Gd IV today. Top pitch crumbling away, did the excellent ice on variation left finish instead.

steveb2006 10/Feb/15 Lead

21 years since last did this - good ice all the way. Stunning cloud inversion on top

Hidden 09/Feb/15 AltLd
Andrew Sloan 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 4th pitches. Did variant finish to the left of the original chimney finish.......thin melting ice and a delicate pull over the ice mushroom at the top....sporty, about tech 6! A brilliant route on a glorious winter day.

with Steve Grove
Rachel Slater 07/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Joris.Roulleau 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S

lovely route, good ice (soft at the top). Finished up the ice on the left, which was way more logical than the chimney.

with Richard Lizzimore
Nick Russell 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Like climbing a ladder, properly hooked out from being gangbanged for the past week or two. Not grade V in that condition.

Pete_Frost 07/Feb/15 AltLd rpt

Led P2 on perfect ice this time. Took a direct line and found ice as good as any I'd climbed in Rjukan.

with Anthony Eccles
9fingerjon 07/Feb/15 AltLd
Hidden 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
alastairbegley 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Fantastic conditions but completely hooked out. Grade IV in current conditions.

highclimber 07/Feb/15 AltLd dog

I did P1 and P3. fell on second on the ice (which is hooked to hell at th moment) when my axe popped while try to remove a screw. Top route but busy today.

tim newton 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
ianstevens 06/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Good ice low down, but more steps than a ladder. Still no walkover however, and the ice is a little brittle further up. Utterly spiffing route, deserves each and every star.

Hidden 05/Feb/15 2nd
Rob84 05/Feb/15 Lead
with Pidg
Hidden 04/Feb/15 AltLd
mynyddresident 04/Feb/15 AltLd rpt
with wolf
robgixer 04/Feb/15 Lead O/S

good ice all the way. started at the bottom of the ice and climbed in 2 pitches.

wolf.leeb 04/Feb/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 03/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
cymjt 02/Feb/15 -

Unfortuntely We had to bail back down clogwyn left hand branch on Clogwyn Du yesterday in darkness...we left 2 anchors sling on a large thread low down, and then a nut/hex belay (with sling) above one of the steep pitches (not sure which one, it was dark!) Im not entirely expecting to see it again, but if some kind soul would like to return it, then I'd happily buy you a pint or two/donate to MR/NWBF/whatever you want... Thanks!

stratandrew 01/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, great fun. Icefall in great Nick: A 45m P1 (starting a little higher up the gully) and a very long P2.

with gw3285
The Grist 01/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Helen harrison, Nick Allsop
Tadams 31/Jan/15 Lead O/S

2 long pitches - main ice fall up to good stance with great views, then ran top section together, ran partway up leftward slabs before taking steeper step up right into the very windy scoop and onto the top. Fantastic route.

with Tom Hewitt
kenneM 30/Jan/15 AltLd

In pretty good condition. Main pitch has plenty of ice but still kept as right as possible by the draw of the rock gear. Next pitch was excellent with first time placements!

with Steve Marner, Carl Davies
Hidden 25/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
kelly_426 24/Jan/15 2nd
with Tom Nichols, LDudill
lost.arrow 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Getting up at 06.00 would have put us first or second. Instead we were fourth, more than an hour waiting. Not a bad spot to wait. Glad I brought my pack could wear duvet jacket and drink hot coffee. The ice was thick and Stu got the plum second pitch. This and the following we pitched. The second pitch took three slings, two being in situ, missed out the in situ wire, a friend and then ice screw. On my turn had to wait a while before I could start. Limited belay options at top? The ice was accommodating with natural hook options and steps not to mention prior axe holes. Less so at the crux, stepping around a bulge. Up to a sling then the stance with three people on it. Rounded ice falls follow. I opt to go ASAP taking in the unused left side. I grab the bandoleer, which later to my discomfort, I find has enough pro but not all the draws. The falls take two ice screws and two bulldogs. Could have placed more using reworked slings and crabs. Once over the falls it's slabby ice-snow to the boulder belay at the top with not much spare on the sixties.

with Stu Sherwood
tom.e 22/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Claire
breed 19/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 19/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

I lead 2nd pitch. Brad lead a brilliant finihing pitch up a pitch up ice on th left

with Brad
AB1965 ??/2015 AltLd

Excellent conditions, blue sky, no wind. Great lead Bob

with Bob Johnson
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
tskelhon ?/May/13 AltLd O/S

No ice had formed - had to take mixed line at 6

clmacdonald ?/May/13 AltLd
Pete_Frost 08/Apr/13 AltLd

Ice a bit thin so Kin led grade 6 pitch. Ran final two pitches together - slightly too long for 60m rope but moved together on easy terrain until big flake belay could be reached.

Skinny Kin 08/Apr/13 AltLd dog

I fell off near the top of the chimney on the crux pitch as something snapped out on the L pick (probably some turf I managed to see). Gear (in situ, loads of them) was so good. I got back straight onto it. I led it clean the second time. Brilliant dry tooling. The best winter lead I had. Truely deserves a grade 6 and 3 stars.

with Pete Frost
mikeyjbs 04/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with mike moss
mike.moss 04/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd
Olli-C 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Split the main pitch so Andy lead the mixed bit and belayed half way up the chimney where the ice got fat. Liam lead the ice and I lead the top pitch, not sure if it was the top pitch of this route or the top pitch of pillar chimney. My hardest winter lead. Was great fun.

with Andy Hall, Liam Brown
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
steveboote ?/Mar/13 AltLd

With Vic Belshaw

TimJ 27/Feb/13 -

Still in excellent condition

Hidden 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
manxclare 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

thick and hard ice .. fabulous conditions....great company

with jon22
John sealey 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Great Ice, climbed Left of 2 chimneys at top on thin ice. Great Day

with Tony Ball
Mr-Cowdrey 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Tim led the crux pitch via the 6 variation. I strung together the last 2 pitches. Solid ice and bomber neve. Fantastic route done in proper winter conditions

kelliroberts3 26/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with merlin march, Pete Rigby
Neil D 26/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Mixed condition V,6. Sam led crux.

Pete Rigby 26/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Merlin March, Kelli Roberts
Tom Livingstone 22/Jan/13 Lead rpt

P1 and P4

with JezH
industrialiceman 20/Jan/13 -
tsl42 19/Jan/13 2nd dog

Andy led it hall. Burly middle pitch.

with Liam Brown, Andy mumc
Hidden 19/Jan/13 2nd
clams ?/Jan/13 2nd
with PR&K
Tom Livingstone 13/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Led all pitches, cheers Pete! Took mixed variation and then middle top gully

Owain Llewelyn 12/Dec/12 AltLd

Mixed variation on p1 and middle finish. Brilliant.

with Gareth E
Jack.H.92 03/Feb/12 AltLd
Glyn 03/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed V 6 mixed 2nd pitch. Ice was better higher up, moved left and finished up easy ramp. Plenty of sun and blue skies

with Tom Skelhon
Hidden ??/2012 -
Luke Brooks ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
jparry75 24/Dec/10 AltLd
with m.evans
Hidden 22/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 22/Dec/10 AltLd

Waited a long while to be at the crag with the ice there. Absolutely superb.

with Adam
timjones 21/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Neil McLean
mynyddresident 20/Dec/10 -

Becoming tradition for me . Wee bit cruddy in places and prob nearer tech 4 than 5 today.

with wolf
wolf.leeb 20/Dec/10 2nd O/S

1st proper ice route, ace.. apart from agonising hot aches, no one told me about that shit.

Adam Booth 19/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Finished it! Stunning day, great climb.

with Tom Jumar, Misha
Misha 19/Dec/10 2nd

2hrs to slog up through shin to knee deep snow, a guy from another team kindly broke trail. Had to swim up the approach gully. Tom made short work of P1, which wasn't particularly hard but thinner than when Phil, Ian and I did it last Feb. I carelessly came off seconding just as was about to pull round onto the ice after removing the last bit of gear in the corner - had a dodgy placement, thought might as well carry on and the axe ripped or slipped off as I swung the other one. Embarassing! Not the kind of thing I would have done on lead. Adam finished up great plastic ice on the fat second pitch, taking the leftward rising icefall and then a bit of ice on the right to the top (think I did that bit to finish Pillar Chimney). A top day even though had done the route before. For the first time ever, walked out the same way as we had come in as just followed our tracks.

with Adam Booth, Tom
Adam Booth 17/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Took hours to even get to the route through deep powder, so rapped off nr top of first main pitch. Awesome climbing all the same!

Ed Booth 17/Dec/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/10 AltLd
Tommy Harris ?/Dec/10 Lead O/S

not sure what the grade is but flanked off right just before tatt and joined top half of right hand direct.

with phillip belcher
masa-alpin 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

A superb and top-quality route! Interests are really sustained, from ice to mix! The P2 crux ice pitch was thin; 10cm maximum for screws in less than perfect ice. Took the direct chimney finish.

with Tom H
lithos 13/Mar/10 AltLd

Quality climbing throughout, felt super confident on it , I thought the ice was fine, got a few ok screws in but was really happy and moved quickly. Should do it in 2 pitches, belaying in the gully RH (good nuts) after the chockstone. We took the huge icefall finish as it looked so good - and it was

Simon Caldwell 13/Mar/10 AltLd

Soloed the first pitch, I led the prize pitch, C did the chockstone pitch, then I finished up the fantastic ice on the left. A brilliant climb, in perfect condition.

with Lemming
BorisVBlade 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S

most of the ice very thin. Not many screw placements.

with Guillaume Billardon
Will Smith 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Soloed to bottom of main pitch. Rob then led with surprising ease and only two screws. What a pitch! Steep and thin but brilliant positioned and very atmospheric in the mist. I led over the chockstone and then after a bit of faffing with belays continued to lead to the top over the top-class icefall to finish.

with lithos
TimPerkin 08/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Colin Beechey
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd rpt
emlynroberts 06/Mar/10 2nd

Soloed to the ice pitch, Fell off at top of steep section on next pitch, so had to climb it again! At my limit!

with Nigel Milner
Hidden 06/Mar/10 -
Hidden 26/Feb/10 AltLd
spidey 20/Feb/10 AltLd

first on route! 1 hr 20 min walk in! both led first pitch (2) jim led second and third in one pitch (5/6 and 4) i led last (4) 3 stars!

crossdressingrodney 20/Feb/10 2nd O/S

Terrifying & exhilerating! My walking crampons popped off on the first (easy) pitch. After fixing them back together with a sling, Alex led the crux pitch under showers of icicles and snow knocked down from above. Finished the route just as the last of the light faded and down-climbed an easy gully by the light of the moon.

with AlexM
Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
RachelP 18/Feb/10 2nd

reliably informed this is a grade V Geth and i went the mega hard way :S

with Geth, JamieH
Daniel Wicks 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S

thin, no ice near any insitu gear

with np134
np134 14/Feb/10 2nd
Misha 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Did in two pitches. Good lead by Phil on the steep ice of P1 with an entertaining mixed start. I did the direct narrow gully finish, with the crux being a few moves on thin ice to get round a hanging chandelier - fortunately there was a good nut not too far below! Excellent route which was in good condition, the only issue was that the ice was a bit brittle so while Phil was leading there was a fair bit of debris coming down from a couple of teams above.

with Ian W, philhilo
philhilo 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Lead the main pitch, good steep ice. Misha took top, short and thin.

with Misha, ian wyatt
AB1965 12/Feb/10 Lead

Excellent climbing through out. Tricky step left but v good gear.

Dave Heaton 12/Feb/10 AltLd

I lead crux pitch

Hidden 11/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
frost 07/Feb/10 AltLd
with D Garry
geoff b 07/Feb/10 AltLd

Brilliant route just in condition on the crux section. 2nd time I'd gone up there to find it. We were first in line on a busy day & were followed by at least 2 other parties. Did a direct finish at the top up a narrow groove & steep slab thinly glazed with ice at V5, between the 2 usual finishes.

with Jon Byrne
mux 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with frost
mynyddresident ?/Feb/10 -
with geraint
mynyddresident ?/Feb/10 AltLd
with liam
Hidden 31/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden 31/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden 24/Dec/09 AltLd dog
stevebarratt 24/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Very little ice. V 6

with JadeL
Karlos 10/Feb/09 AltLd

Soloed snow gully to beneath the chimney. Led half of second pitch but kept on mixed stuff in chimney due to thin conditions. Belayed at split in the gully. Seconded top part of pitch 2 in thin conditions. Led final snow gully and mixed climbed out of final chinmey in near darkness. Thought this route was often in - felt thin throughout to me?

with Tom
jcurley 05/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Mike led the pitch of 4. Excellent climb in great condition.

with FedUp
mynyddresident ?/Feb/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
davebrox ??/2009 AltLd

Paul James

zero six ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt ??/2008 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Tim W 06/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
with Myles Jordan
Happy Wanderer 05/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

Ice was as thick as the skin on my chattering teeth on P2! Led P1 & P3

with Ken T
Tom M Williams ?/Jan/05 AltLd O/S
with Pete ?
keith leonard ??/2005 -
with steve mead
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
phardman 02/Mar/96 Solo
phardman ?/Feb/96 -
michael burrows 24/Dec/95 AltLd O/S
with steve ward
Hidden 20/Feb/94 AltLd
Hidden 20/Feb/94 Lead O/S
MikePycroft 13/Feb/94 AltLd
MikePycroft 13/Feb/94 AltLd
steveb2006 13/Feb/94 AltLd

A return to this great climb after a retreat from a totally bear black ladders. There seems to be more snow up here than anywhere else. Again good ice on the main pitch and above.

Hidden ??/1993 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 12/Jan/91 Lead
with Andy W
steveb2006 21/Dec/86 Lead

Great climb with plenty of steep ice

with Mervyn Dudley
Martin Haworth ?/Feb/82 AltLd O/S
with Dave Snowden
nniff ?/Jan/82 -
nniff ?/Jan/82 -
Tim Sparrow ?/Jan/82 -
with nniff
nniff ?/Jan/82 -
Tim Sparrow ??/1982 -
with nniff, Ian Owen
Hidden 01/Jan/80 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin ?/Feb/78 AltLd O/S
with Dave Winter
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High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 20
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set