125m, 4 pitches. Brilliant icy gully climb. The second crux pitch goes at sustained mixed V 6 if the ice-fall isn't fully formed, or climb Clogwyn Central.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
jethro kiernan 08/Mar/16 AltLd rpt

final days of winter

davebrox 18/Feb/16 AltLd rpt

solo first grade 2 pitch, led the second ice pitch (thin) and the last pitch. All under glorious blue skies!

with Lee
Mr. K 13/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Thin, mixed conditions and deserving of V, 6. We soloed the first grade II pitch to the base of the icefall. I lead an initial bold mixed pitch, about V, 5 to a belay in a chimney to the right of the main icefall. The mixed pitch up the chimney then across left on the icefall was a thin V, 6 with the crux being the squeeze chimney to gain the corner before questing left across the thin ice. Pete continued this pitch up some grade III steps to belay in a comfortable bay on the right. I lead the final pitch of moderate ground up to a steep/overhanding chimney on the right which felt about IV, 4. An awesome day out under blue skies with good visibility and very little wind, amazing we had the crag to ourselves! I think the rugby might have had something to do with it! There was plenty of ice around but not enough for screws. Bulldogs would be useful and I wished I'd brought a second one. Some turf was frozen, some wasn't but that was easy to avoid. There was a surprising amount of in situ tat about, I guess people have bailed off the route a few times!

Climbingspike ??/2016 -
andy dunn 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Cuillin Calling 14/Feb/15 AltLd

Main icefall very stepped so Gd IV today. Top pitch crumbling away, did the excellent ice on variation left finish instead.

Hidden 10/Feb/15 Lead
Hidden 09/Feb/15 AltLd
Andrew Sloan 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 4th pitches. Did variant finish to the left of the original chimney finish.......thin melting ice and a delicate pull over the ice mushroom at the top....sporty, about tech 6! A brilliant route on a glorious winter day.

with Steve Grove
Rachel Slater 07/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Joris.Roulleau 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S

lovely route, good ice (soft at the top). Finished up the ice on the left, which was way more logical than the chimney.

with Richard Lizzimore
Nick Russell 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Like climbing a ladder, properly hooked out from being gangbanged for the past week or two. Not grade V in that condition.

Pete_Frost 07/Feb/15 AltLd rpt

Led P2 on perfect ice this time. Took a direct line and found ice as good as any I'd climbed in Rjukan.

with Anthony Eccles
9fingerjon 07/Feb/15 AltLd
with Matt G
Hidden 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
alastairbegley 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Fantastic conditions but completely hooked out. Grade IV in current conditions.

highclimber 07/Feb/15 AltLd dog

I did P1 and P3. fell on second on the ice (which is hooked to hell at th moment) when my axe popped while try to remove a screw. Top route but busy today.

tim newton 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S
climbEdclimb 06/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Good route with a decreasing quality of ice towards the top.

with Ian Stevens
ianstevens 06/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Good ice low down, but more steps than a ladder. Still no walkover however, and the ice is a little brittle further up. Utterly spiffing route, deserves each and every star.

Hidden 05/Feb/15 2nd
Rob84 05/Feb/15 Lead
with Pidg
Hidden 04/Feb/15 AltLd
mynyddresident 04/Feb/15 AltLd rpt
with wolf
robgixer 04/Feb/15 Lead O/S

good ice all the way. started at the bottom of the ice and climbed in 2 pitches.

wolf.leeb 04/Feb/15 AltLd rpt
with nic
Hidden 03/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
cymjt 02/Feb/15 -

Unfortuntely We had to bail back down clogwyn left hand branch on Clogwyn Du yesterday in darkness...we left 2 anchors behind...one sling on a large thread low down, and then a nut/hex belay (with sling) above one of the steep pitches (not sure which one, it was dark!) Im not entirely expecting to see it again, but if some kind soul would like to return it, then I'd happily buy you a pint or two/donate to MR/NWBF/whatever you want... Thanks!

stratandrew 01/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, great fun. Icefall in great Nick: A 45m P1 (starting a little higher up the gully) and a very long P2.

The Grist 01/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Helen harrison, Nick Allsop
Tadams 31/Jan/15 Lead O/S

2 long pitches - main ice fall up to good stance with great views, then ran top section together, ran partway up leftward slabs before taking steeper step up right into the very windy scoop and onto the top. Fantastic route.

with Tom Hewitt
kenneM 30/Jan/15 AltLd

In pretty good condition. Main pitch has plenty of ice but still kept as right as possible by the draw of the rock gear. Next pitch was excellent with first time placements!

with Steve Marner, Carl Davies
Hidden 25/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jan/15 2nd
lost.arrow 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Getting up at 06.00 would have put us first or second. Instead we were fourth, more than an hour waiting. Not a bad spot to wait. Glad I brought my pack could wear duvet jacket and drink hot coffee. The ice was thick and Stu got the plum second pitch. This and the following we pitched. The second pitch took three slings, two being in situ, missed out the in situ wire, a friend and then ice screw. On my turn had to wait a while before I could start. Limited belay options at top? The ice was accommodating with natural hook options and steps not to mention prior axe holes. Less so at the crux, stepping around a bulge. Up to a sling then the stance with three people on it. Rounded ice falls follow. I opt to go ASAP taking in the unused left side. I grab the bandoleer, which later to my discomfort, I find has enough pro but not all the draws. The falls take two ice screws and two bulldogs. Could have placed more using reworked slings and crabs. Once over the falls it's slabby ice-snow to the boulder belay at the top with not much spare on the sixties.

with Stu Sherwood
tom.e 22/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Claire
breed 19/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 19/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

I lead 2nd pitch. Brad lead a brilliant finihing pitch up a pitch up ice on th left

with Brad
AB1965 ??/2015 AltLd

Excellent conditions, blue sky, no wind. Great lead Bob

with Bob Johnson
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
tskelhon ?/May/13 AltLd O/S

No ice had formed - had to take mixed line at 6

clmacdonald ?/May/13 AltLd
Pete_Frost 08/Apr/13 AltLd

Ice a bit thin so Kin led grade 6 pitch. Ran final two pitches together - slightly too long for 60m rope but moved together on easy terrain until big flake belay could be reached.

Skinny Kin 08/Apr/13 AltLd dog

I fell off near the top of the chimney on the crux pitch as something snapped out on the L pick (probably some turf I managed to see). Gear (in situ, loads of them) was so good. I got back straight onto it. I led it clean the second time. Brilliant dry tooling. The best winter lead I had. Truely deserves a grade 6 and 3 stars.

with Pete Frost
mikeyjbs 04/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with mike moss
mike.moss 04/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd
Olli-C 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Split the main pitch so Andy lead the mixed bit and belayed half way up the chimney where the ice got fat. Liam lead the ice and I lead the top pitch, not sure if it was the top pitch of this route or the top pitch of pillar chimney. My hardest winter lead. Was great fun.

with Andy Hall, Liam
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
steveboote ?/Mar/13 AltLd

With Vic Belshaw

TimJ 27/Feb/13 -

Still in excellent condition

Hidden 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
manxclare 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

thick and hard ice .. fabulous conditions....great company

with jon22
jon22 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Great Ice, climbed Left of 2 chimneys at top on thin ice. Great Day

with Tony Ball
Mr-Cowdrey 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Tim led the crux pitch via the 6 variation. I strung together the last 2 pitches. Solid ice and bomber neve. Fantastic route done in proper winter conditions

kelliroberts3 26/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with merlin march, Peter Rigby
Neil D 26/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Mixed condition V,6. Sam led crux.

Pete Rigby 26/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Merlin March, Kelli Roberts
Tom Livingstone 22/Jan/13 Lead rpt

P1 and P4

industrialiceman 20/Jan/13 -
tsl42 19/Jan/13 2nd dog

Andy led it hall. Burly middle pitch.

with Liam Brown, Andy mumc
Hidden 19/Jan/13 2nd
clams ?/Jan/13 2nd
with PR&K
Tom Livingstone 13/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Led all pitches, cheers Pete! Took mixed variation and then middle top gully

Owain Llewelyn 12/Dec/12 AltLd

Mixed variation on p1 and middle finish. Brilliant.

with Gareth E
Jack.H.92 03/Feb/12 AltLd
Glyn 03/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed V 6 mixed 2nd pitch. Ice was better higher up, moved left and finished up easy ramp. Plenty of sun and blue skies

with Tom Skelhon
Hidden ??/2012 -
Luke Brooks ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
jparry75 24/Dec/10 AltLd
with m.evans
A Crook 22/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

An absolute classic brilliant. Got it on the second attempt (helps when it is in nick)

NeilGriffiths 22/Dec/10 AltLd

Waited a long while to be at the crag with the ice there. Absolutely superb.

with Adam
timjones 21/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Neil McLean
mynyddresident 20/Dec/10 -

Becoming tradition for me . Wee bit cruddy in places and prob nearer tech 4 than 5 today.

with wolf
wolf.leeb 20/Dec/10 2nd O/S

1st proper ice route, ace.. apart from agonising hot aches, no one told me about that shit.

with nic
Adam Booth 19/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Finished it! Stunning day, great climb.

with Tom Jumar, Misha
Misha 19/Dec/10 2nd

2hrs to slog up through shin to knee deep snow, a guy from another team kindly broke trail. Had to swim up the approach gully. Tom made short work of P1, which wasn't particularly hard but thinner than when Phil, Ian and I did it last Feb. I carelessly came off seconding just as was about to pull round onto the ice after removing the last bit of gear in the corner - had a dodgy placement, thought might as well carry on and the axe ripped or slipped off as I swung the other one. Embarassing! Not the kind of thing I would have done on lead. Adam finished up great plastic ice on the fat second pitch, taking the leftward rising icefall and then a bit of ice on the right to the top (think I did that bit to finish Pillar Chimney). A top day even though had done the route before. For the first time ever, walked out the same way as we had come in as just followed our tracks.

with Adam Booth, Tom
Adam Booth 17/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Took hours to even get to the route through deep powder, so rapped off nr top of first main pitch. Awesome climbing all the same!

Ed Booth 17/Dec/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/10 AltLd
Tommy Harris ?/Dec/10 Lead O/S

not sure what the grade is but flanked off right just before tatt and joined top half of right hand direct.

with phillip belcher
masa-alpin 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

A superb and top-quality route! Interests are really sustained, from ice to mix! The P2 crux ice pitch was thin; 10cm maximum for screws in less than perfect ice. Took the direct chimney finish.

with Tom H
lithos 13/Mar/10 AltLd

Quality climbing throughout, felt super confident on it , I thought the ice was fine, got a few ok screws in but was really happy and moved quickly. Should do it in 2 pitches, belaying in the gully RH (good nuts) after the chockstone. We took the huge icefall finish as it looked so good - and it was

Simon Caldwell 13/Mar/10 AltLd

Soloed the first pitch, I led the prize pitch, C did the chockstone pitch, then I finished up the fantastic ice on the left. A brilliant climb, in perfect condition.

with Carmen
BorisVBlade 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S

most of the ice very thin. Not many screw placements.

with Guillaume Billardon
Will Smith 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Soloed to bottom of main pitch. Rob then led with surprising ease and only two screws. What a pitch! Steep and thin but brilliant positioned and very atmospheric in the mist. I led over the chockstone and then after a bit of faffing with belays continued to lead to the top over the top-class icefall to finish.

with Rob
TimPerkin 08/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Colin Beechey
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd rpt
emlynroberts 06/Mar/10 2nd

Soloed to the ice pitch, Fell off at top of steep section on next pitch, so had to climb it again! At my limit!

with Nigel Milner
Hidden 06/Mar/10 -
Hidden 26/Feb/10 AltLd
spidey 20/Feb/10 AltLd

first on route! 1 hr 20 min walk in! both led first pitch (2) jim led second and third in one pitch (5/6 and 4) i led last (4) 3 stars!

with Jimmy
crossdressingrodney 20/Feb/10 2nd O/S

Terrifying & exhilerating! My walking crampons popped off on the first (easy) pitch. After fixing them back together with a sling, Alex led the crux pitch under showers of icicles and snow knocked down from above. Finished the route just as the last of the light faded and down-climbed an easy gully by the light of the moon.

Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
RachelP 18/Feb/10 2nd

reliably informed this is a grade V Geth and i went the mega hard way :S

with Geth, Jamie
Hidden 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S
np134 14/Feb/10 2nd
Misha 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Did in two pitches. Good lead by Phil on the steep ice of P1 with an entertaining mixed start. I did the direct narrow gully finish, with the crux being a few moves on thin ice to get round a hanging chandelier - fortunately there was a good nut not too far below! Excellent route which was in good condition, the only issue was that the ice was a bit brittle so while Phil was leading there was a fair bit of debris coming down from a couple of teams above.

with Ian W, Phil
philhilo 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Lead the main pitch, good steep ice. Misha took top, short and thin.

with misha, ian wyatt
AB1965 12/Feb/10 Lead

Excellent climbing through out. Tricky step left but v good gear.

Dave Heaton 12/Feb/10 AltLd

I lead crux pitch

Hidden 11/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
frost 07/Feb/10 AltLd
with D Garry
geoff b 07/Feb/10 AltLd

Brilliant route just in condition on the crux section. 2nd time I'd gone up there to find it. We were first in line on a busy day & were followed by at least 2 other parties. Did a direct finish at the top up a narrow groove & steep slab thinly glazed with ice at V5, between the 2 usual finishes.

with Jon Byrne
mux 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with frost
mynyddresident ?/Feb/10 -
with geraint
mynyddresident ?/Feb/10 AltLd
with liam
Hidden 31/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden 31/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden 24/Dec/09 AltLd dog
stevebarratt 24/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Very little ice. V 6

Karlos 10/Feb/09 AltLd

Soloed snow gully to beneath the chimney. Led half of second pitch but kept on mixed stuff in chimney due to thin conditions. Belayed at split in the gully. Seconded top part of pitch 2 in thin conditions. Led final snow gully and mixed climbed out of final chinmey in near darkness. Thought this route was often in - felt thin throughout to me?

with Tom
jcurley 05/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Mike led the pitch of 4. Excellent climb in great condition.

mynyddresident ?/Feb/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
davebrox ??/2009 AltLd

Paul James

zero six ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt ??/2008 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Tim W 06/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
with Myles Jordan
Happy Wanderer 05/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

Ice was as thick as the skin on my chattering teeth on P2! Led P1 & P3

with Ken T
Tom M Williams ?/Jan/05 AltLd O/S
with Pete ?
keith leonard ??/2005 -
with steve mead
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
phardman 02/Mar/96 Solo
phardman ?/Feb/96 -
michael burrows 24/Dec/95 AltLd O/S
with steve ward
Hidden 20/Feb/94 AltLd
Hidden 20/Feb/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/94 AltLd
Hidden 13/Feb/94 AltLd
Hidden 13/Feb/94 AltLd
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 12/Jan/91 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden 21/Dec/86 Lead
Martin Haworth ?/Feb/82 AltLd O/S
with Dave Snowden
nniff ?/Jan/82 -
Tim Sparrow ??/1982 -
with Ned, Ian Owen
Hidden 01/Jan/80 AltLd
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 15
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set