UKC

6088m. This route takes a direct line up the East Face of Huyana Potosi. From the hut go up to Campo Argentina, from here, pick a route across the glacier, avoiding some big crevasses to the base of the climb. The route is angled at 50" and is steeper at the top. It can take 2 1/2 hrs to get to the base of the climb and 38mins to get to the top on ice. On unconsolidated snow it can take a great deal longer. From the top it is possible to traverse to the south peak, an exhilerating and exposed III AD. Or you can drop down to the col between the the north and south summits. It is also possible to traverse up to the north, principle, summit above the west face, which is very exposed (III+, D-), but be extremely careful later in the season after the snow has turned to ice. Alternatively, you can drop down toward the left to join the Normal Route below the summit face.

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Route of Interest
Cabeza De Condor

Grade: AD+ ***
(Condoriri)

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