UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

15m. MIND GAMES WALL. A potentially distessing lead with no gear to protect the lower crux bulge and the prospect of hitting the starting slab.Start 3 metres right of the rib of the casbah,directly below the white scoop at the top of the wall.A difficult to read sequence on small pockets leads past a small overlap.Use an undercut in this to get the first of better holds that lead direct into the scoop,trend left to finish.
This route is better than Aquarius and Milk and honey,which are also both worthwhile,it has better ,cleaner rock,a good line and good climbing could I be bold enough to suggest a star?

Guy percival and Brian 17/Oct/2008.

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Route of Interest
Exterior Designer

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Hope Mansel)

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