Rockfax Description
The roof crack to the right is a battle. The use of knees, and loss of chunks of flesh, are pretty much par for the course. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1956

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

TomatoPro 18/Nov Lead O/S

Stoked. Lovely jams. Found a massive crimp in the crack but opted for the jams because they're great. Flew through it.

with Cindy
marcduhig 07/Nov Lead O/S
chancer 05/Nov 2nd dnf
with Marc Duhig
David Dickinson 05/Nov 2nd dog

This would be an absolutely terrifying lead. Super thuggy and precarious feeling, the crux comes above the roof on the awkward rounded bulge.

with Ben Fordsman
GeorgiePorgie1 29/Oct Lead O/S

4D climbing! Pumpy undercut, behind the head pump dunk, 180 degrees turn and jamming becomes your favorite weapon. Pure bliss on top!!!

with Jim Broomhead
jimbonfire 29/Oct 2nd
with Georgio
nickb1 17/Sep Lead RP

Nemesis of the day vanquished.

with tom b, annep11, josh
Kirill 13/Aug Lead dnf
with Ilia
Ilia Nadyrbayev 13/Aug 2nd O/S
TomKingston 07/Aug 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug Lead rpt
five 16/Jul Lead dnf
ladislav 16/Jul Lead dnf
with Alan
Hidden 01/Jul Lead rpt
Gympaul 25/Jun Lead

memorable stomach muscle pull under overhang......

with chris
adam6509 24/Jun Lead
adam6509 24/Jun Lead
partz 24/Jun 2nd O/S

Just about

jing 27/May Lead O/S

First E1! Picked this route as it seemed like it's going to rain. Put in a couple of good cams and went for it! Found the roof section ok really, didn't jam as much as used it as an undercut. The jams after were great though. Got rope stuck and had to untie one rope near the top. Can't believe I got this. Wow me!

with Vince L
tyho 11/May Lead O/S
with ecp8
bryce.dorin 07/May Lead dnf

Pulled over the lip once but then slipped out of the final crack, too tired to repeat it afterwards

with Will, Felix
Pippa 09/Apr 2nd O/S
James Smith 09/Apr Lead O/S


with pippa, rich
bigdrew 25/Mar Lead O/S
with olly
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd O/S
Rory_Cummings_NI 20/Oct/16 Lead O/S
ashtond6 15/Oct/16 Lead dnf

Reversed as hurting finger injury

ferdia 11/Sep/16 2nd
with Tess Lyons, Ben Silvestre
smokeyj 08/Sep/16 Lead RP
tessa teapot ?/Sep/16 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/16 TR
Misha 14/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Fun but intimidating (been a while since I've been intimidated by an E1!). I climbed it as a roof crack, with good hand jams and feet in the crack. Ended up cutting loose on a good jam for RH and with LH on the big juggy scoop thing, RF went on the good foothold and straightforward hand jams after that. Felt the rope pull in a bit when I cut loose but E said she didn't feel anything so guess it was just due to the way the rope ran through the gear, so I'll take the onsight. How to climb an E1 like an E3!

with Eszter
DavidR 03/Jul/16 Lead dog

Disappointed to fail on this AGAIN...throwing for the hold at the crux.

w-watson 14/May/16 2nd
Flavio 14/May/16 Lead rpt
HarryBowyer 14/May/16 TR dog
with Eszter
soph 01/May/16 2nd rpt
with Gosia Lipinski
Stroppy 17/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Sam Husband 17/Apr/16 2nd RP

After falling many times on lead. Watching ed do it made it a lot more obvious so will have to come back and lead it.

with Ed
dbottomley 13/Apr/16 Lead G/U
with tom bennell, sam mccarthy
Sam McCarthy 13/Apr/16 Lead G/U

tried a while back, failed. did on toms gear

soph 05/Apr/16 Lead
with Prerna Dangi
ferdia 20/Mar/16 Lead


Andy Moles 20/Mar/16 2nd
with Ferdia
Alfie Maun 19/Mar/16 Lead dog
M_Robinson 19/Mar/16 2nd O/S


Hidden 27/Feb/16 Lead dnf
shaunhumphreys 22/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Ace route, sinker fist jam in the roof!

climberchristy 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt

A pumpy little tussle. First led in 2011.

with bencole
Droyd 29/Jun/15 Lead dog
with Will, Chris
Sam McCarthy 06/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Flavio 16/May/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic roof crack, almost felt sick at the top but great 'fun'.

Matt Shepherd 16/May/15 Lead rpt
ben.phillips 16/May/15 2nd β
Joedt 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 2nd
phildawson 02/May/15 Lead dnf

took plenty of falls trying to get through the roof but didn't manage it beore the rain got to everything. Then aided it to get the gear back. Hard work and educational (not to mention damp).

with Zheylo Vasilev, Jake Jones, Michael Finegan
CharlieMack 16/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Repeat to collect gear after Andy had a valiant effort.

with Andy
Nick1812P 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Nick
AsleepOnBelay 11/Apr/15 2nd dog
with ian
gazfellows 22/Mar/15 Lead

A right foot jam and a hand jam over the lip! Happy dayz ;)

with Nic
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead O/S
The Grist 10/Nov/14 Lead RP
harry_lewis 01/Nov/14 Lead dog
Kirill 26/Oct/14 Lead RP

Finally managed to get up this.

with Ricardo Da Silva
Hidden 26/Oct/14 Lead
The Grist 18/Oct/14 Lead dog
with Tom Doldon
tim newton 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 21/Sep/14 2nd rpt
pete1993 21/Sep/14 2nd
with Calum W
Teappleby 21/Sep/14 Lead

really fun climbing, I found it to be like one step up from roof route at Rivelin, but one step easier than the unprintable at Stanage.

Calum Wadsworth 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

On Toms gear.

mark4344 13/Sep/14 Lead rpt

finally got this clean. pumpy route.

with Dan Vaj, Matt Payne
Stroppy 20/Jul/14 Lead dog

Got over the lip but pumped out getting the next cam in. Very gutting, great fun and impressive for 5b!

with Steve McClure
Brannock 12/Jul/14 Lead

Hard, tried out jamming gloves for the first time, big help on the roof section probably riding help after pulling round the roof. Quality struggle.

MPSBunny 12/Jul/14 2nd dog

John smashed this out with his funky homemade jamming gloves though had to take a couple of rests (swings) on gear. The ropes got stuck as he got near the top and he contemplated untying (I think he might have from one from one rope) due to the rope drag around the lip. Before seconding I abbed down to reclip the blue rope because I didn't want to take a massive swing. Upon climbing up to the roof crack I decided that I wasn't up for the second as I was convinced I would hit the floor if I fell off despite Robby's claim that it would be fine. The solution to this was to untie from one rope clip some gear to it and see how close it swung to the ground. After this experiment proved that I probably wouldn't hit the ground I tied in and on the demands that if I did hit the ground I expected 10 drinks from both Robby and Brannock I jumped off and took massive swing whilst screaming "fuck" in as high a pitch as I could manage!! Upon actually trying the route it turns out it is three big hand jams followed by a pull around on the lip.

stuart34 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Loosie
admackie 31/May/14 -
with rob
jwpil 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Deacon
deacondeacon 31/May/14 Lead

Tried a couple of times before. went ok today

Chriswallis2 16/Apr/14 Lead RP

Made it too hard for myself. Lowered off, clean 2nd go with the roof cams clipped.

with Jenny
Climbster 01/Apr/14 2nd dnf

Got a foot trapped in the roof crack on second, v. off-putting.

with Vick, Ian
Mr Wild 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Kiss the guns:>D! Just managed the on-sight after climbing for the last 11 days.

with Vic, Matt
CharlieMack 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Jen Maxfield
phillipwright ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Cake 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

First time I've done a horizontal foot-jam. Rope got completely stuck between two lobes on a cam before second could come up. Great fun for me though

Julesthe1st 07/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Andy Borne
elbeanio 07/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Wils 25/Aug/13 2nd
hlegge 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Awesome imposing line, bit easier than expected from looking at it from bellow

Fragmod 14/Aug/13 Lead
Jack93 08/Aug/13 Lead RP

Fell off the first time coming out around the lip but everything went smoothly on the second attempt. Awesomely fun route; I kind of wish the roof bit was longer!

Chris Redding 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Hard work.. but fun :D

Amy Hare 08/Aug/13 TR
Stuart Johnston 25/May/13 Lead dog

One fall at the lip. Second go easy once knew the beta.

with Sadie Renwick
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Thinker01 27/Apr/13 2nd dog

God that was awkward, hard work

RFWilkie 27/Apr/13 Lead dog

A right struggle!

with Mark
Jonathan Hall 20/Apr/13 Lead

What a mother this is. So close but slumped onto my jammed hand which stayed jammed. Ouch.

mark4344 20/Apr/13 Lead dog

needed a rest before topping out. so pumpy for a short climb.

with Matt Payne
cem 14/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Failed again!

andi turner ??/2013 -
Albachoss 06/Oct/12 2nd

Just epic! a great tussle made easier for me with fluttery foot-jams. Now to lead...

with Ben
nimajneb 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
TM_Horton 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S

brutal fun ! had an awesome time on this buttress today :)

with webby
Hidden 03/Oct/12 2nd dnf
Coops_13 06/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't get the thin hand jams to stick above roof :(

Olli-C 09/Aug/12 2nd dog

Aided, pretty damn hard. No idea what to do with my feet.

Rachel Slater 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic route!! Easier than it looks (if you are short..). Definitely a lot easier than the Mincer.

M_W_Court 22/Jul/12 -
elCapitano 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Kenny
gazfellows 20/May/12 Lead dnf

back in 2 weeks ..arrrhhh

with Billy nic, steff
masa-alpin 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Excellent climb! I think it was the first time for me that my feet went cut loose thoroughly relying on jamming even for a fraction of a second. Very committing. Cams placed on the roof crack were pushed and moved by the rope drag, but my second managed to retrieve them.

with Rob G, Simon P, Chris G, Lee P
minaturechris 13/May/12 2nd dog

I need to improve my jamming technique!

with Lee Parsons, Masa
robgixer 13/May/12 2nd
Karl Wooffindin 12/May/12 Lead RP

Climbed it previously on 2nd with a friend. Still doesn't take it away from this climb. Stunning.

with Nick D
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd dog
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/12 2nd
Kirill 18/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Could not do it on top rope either, but will come back.

with Elise Belle, Graham Dolman
Andy Peak 1 18/Mar/12 Lead

very easy for E1

with random
Alex@home 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with The Doctor
Elise2977 ?/Mar/12 TR dog
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 27/Nov/11 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Nov/11 AltLd
cem 30/Oct/11 Lead dnf

'Did not finish' not an accurate summary as I barely started it (was just curious to see what the start was like). There goes the onsight but will be back when feeling less knackered

mark20 21/Oct/11 Lead O/S
tuftynick 16/Oct/11 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16/Oct/11 AltLd
with Tufty
Ally Smith 15/Oct/11 Lead β
with Naomi, Gareth
Matt Cooke 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Rosh
w.pettet-smith 22/Sep/11 Lead

good wholesome fun. not as bad as it looks

with ben, guy
Guy Atkinson 18/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Out of practice and weak, my left hand just wasn't jamming properly! Gave it a fair few goes and then rain started pouring down the crack.

with Chris Swift
Chi Cheng 13/Sep/11 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 17/Aug/11 2nd

Horrendous, nuff said. not my sort of thing at all!

with Ruth Taylor, Andy Turner
tonanf ?/Aug/11 -
with Phil L
Andy Hardy 12/Jul/11 Lead dog
Barry D 12/Jul/11 2nd

Phil and Andy

with Andy H
Hidden 28/Jun/11 2nd rpt
nicolat ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 24/May/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 24/May/11 Lead dog
with loundsy
JRae 22/May/11 Lead
thomasadixon 22/May/11 Lead O/S

No need to jam until you've passed the roof! Class route.

with Johnny
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead dnf
markalmack 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S

what a beast. Wish the roof crack was longer.

with james marjot
steve_yo 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
highlux 09/Jan/11 -
with Martin Veale
cymjt ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
Graeme Hammond 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

excellent fun and not that hard if you get the jams right just a bit bunched at the corner

with Pete aka Dad
sam820 26/Sep/10 Lead β

Gear in-situ (rope got stuck so lead instead of seconding)

with Matt Roper, Terry
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
sparkass 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Didn't jam once

with Emerson Clark
natalietanzer 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S


with gary
MikeLeeds 15/Aug/10 Lead

Went up to the crack several times trying to figure out the best way to do it, eventually decided you needed two hands jammed in the crack and to control the swing of your legs from left to right, got jams in, left hand fist jam absolutely solid, swing right foot to small lips on right face, knee contact is inevitable, take right hand out, desperately grope for good hand hold on right lip, pull yourself up, left elbow on ledge, toes in little foothold, wang a nut in, take five minutes to get you breath back. Hand jams are solid, lost very little skin, well chuffed :-) ( One rope got jammed though while going up final slab and had to untie it with one hand, glad it was a bowline )

Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd
Oceanic 07/Aug/10 -
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi 07/Jul/10 Lead
Andrew1 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Jun/10 Lead dog
vark 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Chi Cheng 22/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/10 2nd
Andrew Sandercock 14/Mar/10 Lead RP

took 2 falls that i shouldn't have, lowered, replaced gear and lead clean. really annoyed about blowing the onsight, great route.

with Chrismo
Gazzawatson ??/2010 2nd
Drew M ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
JulesV 20/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with dave evans
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead
gnc760 19/Sep/09 Lead RP
with James Kay
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead β
Don Jebus 15/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with frazer
mark s 13/Sep/09 Lead
with andi,grimer
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
James Oakes 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Bill Lawrence 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S

proved my manhood on this beast of a climb!

with alex mason, oaksi2
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd RP
DavidR 13/Jun/09 Lead dog

Fell off the crux. Got is second go.

Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Dr Caterpillar 02/May/09 2nd dog


mlmatt 25/Apr/09 Lead
with Dan Masterman
DanH9883 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Kenny D
mel holmes 08/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alex@home
Ian Parnell ?/Apr/09 Lead
with Jon Winter
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead
nige 15/Mar/09 Lead
with mark hounslea
gnc760 31/Jan/09 Lead dnf
with Cocky
andy jennings ??/2009 2nd β
with Floris
Tez29 19/Oct/08 Lead dog
with Mousey
Hidden 18/Oct/08 2nd
Stig 17/Sep/08 Lead dog

Had done the hard bit but pumped out in the crag. Pathetic lack of commitment and really pissed off.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd dnf
datoon 13/Jul/08 Lead dog
with S
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
joe larner 20/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Nice route. quite comfy jams. pulled my slipper off in a foot jam and had to put heel back in once i got to the lip.

Hidden 24/May/08 2nd dog
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Andrew Barker ??/2008 Lead

Fell off on first try after missing a really obvious foothold. Led ground-up.

Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Big sloth-like struggle. Almost forgot there was a foothold on the lower edge until I was nearly off! One of the hardest earned onsights I can remember

jonnyboy 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with NCC Nic
gb83 11/Aug/07 2nd dog

took an almighty whipper on this one, came pretty close to decking. thought hands were good, moved feet into the crack then off i pop ;-) had to prussik to get back on route so not the full tick

with I.Killey
Joe Dove 28/Jul/07 2nd
with kev
Alex Mason 05/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Good route and not that thrutchy!

with Vash
v.jester ?/Jul/07 2nd
with alex
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead RP
jchenoweth 10/Jun/07 2nd dog
with NJSharp
Mike_Hayes 20/May/07 Lead
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead rpt
robman 15/Apr/07 Lead dnf


with Tim
doug s 17/Mar/07 Lead
with Jerry
Hidden 14/Mar/07 Lead dog
alicia 14/Mar/07 2nd

Something that is easier for the short, for once! Quite enjoyed that.

with Nick Smith
davetigger ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
steve taylor ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 19/Nov/06 2nd dnf
mattyork2 19/Nov/06 Lead dnf
Martyn ?/Jun/06 Lead dnf
with Simon Bayliss
Rob Grant ?/Apr/06 2nd
with tim marsh
Hidden 18/Feb/06 Lead
Hidden 18/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
shaunhvs ??/2006 Lead

Could only do it with the use of knees.Rope got stuck in crack as i went over the lip!

with Gary Butcher
dannyboy83 ?/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with Dad
Nicos 20/Nov/05 Lead
Nicos 20/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/05 Lead rpt
ChrisBrooke 12/Nov/05 Lead dog
with John Fryer
Hidden 12/Nov/05 Lead
Pythonist 02/Oct/05 Lead dog

Brutal, but somehow very tempting and encouraging. One rest at the lip before committing to the top section. Possible E2 5c if you layback the whole thing (which I did...)

Hidden 18/Jul/05 2nd dog
Hidden 03/Jul/05 Lead O/S
SteveM 04/Jul/04 Lead
with Cogie
Hidden 12/Jun/04 Lead
mark s ??/2004 -
feilx ??/2004 -
Chris Davids ?/Jul/03 2nd dog
with Reuben
ginger ?/Mar/03 -
Duncan I ??/2002 Lead
with Chris Polden
Gus ??/2002 Lead O/S
with luisa giles
VPJB ??/2002 -
Hidden 21/Aug/01 Lead
frost ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with D Garry
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2000 -
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
ajc 20/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/99 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1999 Lead
with Andy Kassyk
Hidden 18/Oct/98 2nd β
Stoney Boy 06/Sep/98 2nd O/S
with Mark Walker
five ?/Jul/98 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 14/Feb/98 2nd
with Pete Kirkham
Hidden 08/Feb/98 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 02/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with Chris Gilligan, William Wilson, adam ellwood
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Jan/98 Solo
with Chris Ranner
WB ??/1998 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 12/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Banham-Hughes
Chris Reid 28/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/95 Lead
Roget 18/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with jon
SR1970 ?/May/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 -
Chris Ellis 29/May/94 Lead
with Martin Veale
andybirtwistle 01/May/94 Lead
with Steve Brewis
Hidden 11/Jul/93 2nd
nokishatov 01/May/93 Lead O/S
IanD353 ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
craig d ??/1993 -
Neil R 20/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with Richard W
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
NickJH ?/May/91 2nd O/S
with N Hancock
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Billg ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead dnf

spent too much time under the overhang

michael burrows 28/Mar/86 2nd
with steve williams
andy tetsill ?/Mar/85 Lead
with Manchester Poly
Gezzer ??/1984 -
uphillnow ?/Oct/83 Lead
with Mark (sam)
charlesmfrench 08/May/83 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
babymoac ?/Jun/81 Lead
with MTW
Andy Say 03/May/81 Lead
Hammy 22/Nov/80 Lead
with Rob Lawson
JEP ??/1980 -
Andy Fielding ??/1980 Lead
nbotting ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Nigel Baker
JEP ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 14/Apr/79 Lead O/S
with Keith Robertson
Andy Nicholson ?/May/78 Lead O/S
with Steve Brodie
Steve Bell ??/1978 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/77 2nd
Mark Kemball 12/Jun/76 Lead
with George Mumford
Derek Ryden ?/Oct/75 TR O/S
with Andy Douse
rogerskews ??/1973 -
with Dane Atkins
clanger ??/1972 -
mikej 15/Jun/69 Lead
with Mike Browne
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