Rockfax Description
Climb left out of the capped corner and pull back onto the slab. Balance up this to a blind harrowing finishing crack. Originally and still often finished leftwards to English Overhang at HVS 5a. © Rockfax

FA. John Fearon 1957

Ticklists: Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

mshorter 24/Jan Solo O/S
with tom
johncoxmysteriously 11/Mar/16 Lead

With the old guidebook at VS 5a, which is not unreasonable for the original finish up English Overhang. It is however extremely unreasonable for the route as described, i.e. 'direct' up the slab, which I should imagine is (a) unclimbed and (b) at least E5. Even with the arete E2 5b strikes me as a bit mean, given that it features 5c climbing above a pretty nasty fall. Future guidebooks could usefully sort this one out.

with Mike Pollak
Phil Anderson ??/2016 TR dog
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 19/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Mike Grant
MSchobitz 25/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Got on this thinking it was E2 5b, as in Rockfax. Climbed from under the roof onto the arete which has good gear, then moved up the slab using the arete. Didnt commit to the direct finish and bailed left about half a meter below the top out. Definitely decking out height for the top moves and still pretty hard. Hard E2 5c at least!

B-bop 18/Aug/14 TR O/S
with Matt Grange
mattgrange 17/Aug/14 TR dnf

Started raining! A very nervy lead if done properly, i.e.not using the left arete. Used left hand start up the arete, some good moves.

Stroppy 06/Oct/13 2nd dog
dannyboy83 06/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/13 TR dog
WillDoyle 03/Apr/13 Lead

Escaped left.

gordonday 12/Jul/12 TR O/S

really not sure if done correctly, blind crack very hard.

with clive
jwpil 18/May/12 2nd O/S

Used the left aret, not sure if that allowed. Desperate otherwise.

with Deacon
Stone Muppet 12/May/12 Lead O/S

HVS finish

with sd-l, md
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Andy Clarke 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Nicely contrasting sections. E2 5b in Rockfax, which I think is probably fair, if you use the LH arete plus crack. Burly start, then bold and pretty tenuous above, with the only meaningful gear at half-height.

with Ralph
Adam Potter ??/2012 Lead dnf

Climbed this thinking it was a VS 5a (Back in the day before I'd reached E grades). Got half way up the top crack and fell/slipped down the slab until toes luckily caught on a horizontal lip. Had a wobbly and got a mate to run up to the top to lower a rope down to me. Guess I'll have to try it again some day but am in no hurry.

disturbed_one51 02/Dec/11 2nd
tonanf ?/Nov/11 AltLd
Kirill 30/Oct/11 2nd dnf

couldn't do the upper slab

ewanthomson 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Ed morris 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with ewan
Hidden 30/Jul/11 TR O/S
Robin S 17/Apr/11 TR O/S

Can you get a nut or microcam in at 2/3rds?

steve_yo 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Brown 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Lilifa
highlux ??/2011 Solo O/S

harder than i was expecting!

RM199 ??/2011 Lead RP

Hvs crack exit as bold and green

PeteH 13/Dec/10 Lead O/S
highlux 26/Nov/10 Solo O/S
stephenhartley 25/Sep/10 2nd
Tez29 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Mousey
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
mark20 13/Mar/10 2nd O/S
J.Wells 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/09 2nd rpt
markhilton 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Joe Dove 24/Jun/08 Lead

not vs5a as book says

with paul
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/May/08 Solo
Nom 16/Apr/08 TR O/S

Quite easy but would make a scary unprotected lead.

with Joe Bream
Hidden 16/Apr/08 TR O/S
tontopink 12/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
JonBray 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Used blind crack and left-hand arete at top of slab, thinking it was VS 5a.

mikehenesy ?/May/07 2nd O/S

Say's VS in the guide book! Well thin at the top, good start though.

with fudge
Hidden ?/May/07 Solo
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/07 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2007 -
Nicos 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
fizzy_elephant 08/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with stu
viking ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with morgan
reg_measures 29/May/05 Lead rpt
with allison, angela
SteveM 07/May/05 2nd
with Tobs
Pythonist ??/2005 2nd O/S
with Chris Jennions
masa-alpin 29/May/04 Lead dnf

Decked from the upper slab, got ribs broken, rescued, and hospitalised for 10 days (Thank you for the mountain rescue team!!). My helmet was also significantly damaged, but it must have saved my life. It was graded as VS 5a in the definitive guidebook. So, after the initial hard section, I believed the hard section was over, whereas in reality the upper slab is harder and underprotected. Also, as a VS climber, I didn't have micros, which are supposed to be crucial according to the newer guidebooks (but no mention in the definitive guide). Both the two pieces of gear after the overhang, which I knew were poor, popped out in the fall. Lesson: The given grade in a guidebook can be wrong, maybe to a criminal extent…

with Claudia
Hidden ?/May/03 2nd
Hidden 09/Mar/03 Lead
Rock Fairy ?/May/01 2nd
with Carl
tlr ??/2000 Solo
DuckingFesperate ?/Apr/99 Lead O/S

Climbed thinking it was VS5a, no chance!

with Rich Ray
Chris the Tall ?/Jul/98 TR

We both failed to lead it - was given VS 5a

with Bill G
Hidden 24/Jun/97 Solo
Hidden 17/Apr/94 -
goi.ashmore 31/Oct/87 Solo O/S
Chris Wright 14/Apr/87 Solo O/S
Hammy 28/Mar/81 Solo
with Simon Cardy
Hammy 22/Nov/80 Solo
with Rob Lawson
Hidden 13/May/78 2nd O/S
Mark Kemball 08/Feb/75 Lead
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead
mikej 02/May/70 Solo
with E
mikej 15/Jun/69 Solo dnf
with Mike Browne
mikej 15/Jun/69 TR
with Mike Browne
mikej 21/Sep/67 Solo dnf
with John Lee
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set