Rockfax Description
The reachy left arete of the smart slab, with gear in the low break. Hard for the short. A fair intro to harder gritstone aretes. © Rockfax
FA. Graham Hoey 1986.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JamieSparkes | 17 Sep, 2017 |
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βeta: Softer than cotton wool, or a pointless eliminate if you choose not to place the perfect face height cam before embarking on the admittedly fun moves up the arete, E1 5b? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Softer than cotton wool, or a pointless eliminate if you choose not to place the perfect face height cam before embarking on the admittedly fun moves up the arete, E1 5b? |
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Sam Doyle | 21 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: I'd say being tall was a disadvantage as you miss out on a brilliant move up to the flake. You'd have to be pretty unlucky to hit the deck from a fall at the crux. Cheers Dr. Hoey | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I'd say being tall was a disadvantage as you miss out on a brilliant move up to the flake. You'd have to be pretty unlucky to hit the deck from a fall at the crux. Cheers Dr. Hoey |
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IOAN D | 5 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Is it a route??? yes its a nice problem , shame that it's not longer. grade bout right E3 5b i recon. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Is it a route??? yes its a nice problem , shame that it's not longer. grade bout right E3 5b i recon. |
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match | 20 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Downgrade to E3 correct. Trickier for the short, but prob still E3. Lovely route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Downgrade to E3 correct. Trickier for the short, but prob still E3. Lovely route. |
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Chris the Tall | 15 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Long reach is a definate advantage. My first E3 onsight, but I have to admit it only felt like E2 5b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Long reach is a definate advantage. My first E3 onsight, but I have to admit it only felt like E2 5b. |
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Andy Clarke | 25 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: I tested the gear & ended up swinging gently to & fro, upside down, about a foot above the ground. A fine sequence of balancey moves, once worked out. But I'll be ticking it in the definitive. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I tested the gear & ended up swinging gently to & fro, upside down, about a foot above the ground. A fine sequence of balancey moves, once worked out. But I'll be ticking it in the definitive. |
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TomG | 30 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: You must've lost a lot of skin. | βeta? | |
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βeta: You must've lost a lot of skin. |
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mark s | 16 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: i soloed it,felt about e2. | βeta? | |
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βeta: i soloed it,felt about e2. |
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TomG | 16 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: The gear will hold you off the ground on the final reach for the flake. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The gear will hold you off the ground on the final reach for the flake. |
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Michael Hood | 1 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: When I did this in the 80s it was graded HVS 4c!!! (I think this was a legacy of Bancroft's Recent Developments) and thinking it felt a little tricky at the grade I found you can place a runner to protect the crux in the diagonal flake (visible in the photo of Luisa onsighting) just to the left of RH Crack. This makes it about E1 5c and you can get it in without going off route or touching (with your hands) any rock off route. Useful to know if you get scared. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: When I did this in the 80s it was graded HVS 4c!!! (I think this was a legacy of Bancroft's Recent Developments) and thinking it felt a little tricky at the grade I found you can place a runner to protect the crux in the diagonal flake (visible in the photo of Luisa onsighting) just to the left of RH Crack. This makes it about E1 5c and you can get it in without going off route or touching (with your hands) any rock off route. Useful to know if you get scared. |
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Monk | 1 Dec, 2003 |
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βeta: It's all over in a few seconds but what a few seconds! I think this is reach dependant (it wasn't just one move for me!). I found it hard and technical and I don't think the gear is high enough to catch you if you blow the moves to the good holds. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's all over in a few seconds but what a few seconds! I think this is reach dependant (it wasn't just one move for me!). I found it hard and technical and I don't think the gear is high enough to catch you if you blow the moves to the good holds. |
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Monk | 18 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: It gets E4 in the Froggatt guide. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It gets E4 in the Froggatt guide. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Chatsworth Edge)