Rockfax Description
Start up the green groove just right then continue up the arete (runners in Heather Wall) which manages to feel surprisingly independent once you get going! © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978

rwking 04/Oct/16 Lead O/S

First E grade

Katsmiff 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Just did Ratbag same grade, which felt easy. Thought it would be more of the same. Little bit scary with hardly any gear. Wishing I hadn't only brought my slipper stickies.

Hidden 18/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/16 TR
karol dubas 19/Sep/15 DWS RP
with Bartek, Atka, Marcus Wright
bryce.dorin 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Craig, Corty
RKirke 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Stroppy 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
jon22 16/May/15 Lead
manxclare 16/May/15 2nd
with jon22
Andy Peak 1 09/May/15 Lead rpt

Reaches the parts other E2s dont:-)

with phill ukc
Ardo 09/May/15 2nd O/S
with Andy
Fraser hill-casey 02/May/15 Lead O/S

Lots of lichen on the top smears but still very enjoyable.

MSchobitz 28/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Feels pretty exposed once higher up on the arete.

Matt Groom 24/Mar/15 Lead
atom 09/Aug/14 2nd β

Lovely corner crack to start then onto the arete, though I think I used the crack too much to really get the grade, Amazing slabby section at the top

j4star 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 30/Jul/14 2nd
dan_blair87 09/Jul/14 2nd O/S
mapperley samurai 09/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Dodgy litchen on some of the smears.

with Dan Blair
Hidden 01/Jul/14 TR O/S
dannyboy83 19/May/14 Solo O/S
WillDoyle 17/May/14 Lead O/S
stephenhartley 26/Feb/14 2nd
with Rich H
amccann 04/Dec/13 Solo O/S
pearson9596 17/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Hiscox
MD 30/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Seconded this a few years ago, quite committing once you've left the final ledge.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Not hugely pumpy but hugely committing.

with Mike D
georgedunton 19/May/13 2nd O/S
elCapitano 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
rurp 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S

slappy on the arete.

JdotP 05/Jan/13 2nd O/S
with Mr Sparkles
Hidden 05/Jan/13 Lead β
adam carless 27/Oct/12 TR O/S

there was a rope on Grip and I'd already done that so I thought "why not". One move which might be worrying on lead before the good holds arrive.

andyjirvin 18/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Attempted, got a few moves up, but backed off and finished on Heather Wall. Could do it, but windy and head not quite in the game. Really want to come back and lead now - maybe a bit of top-rope practice first?

deacondeacon 13/Sep/12 Lead

Led clean. Seconded about 6 months ago. Surely runners in Heather Wall aren't in at E2. Felt spot on E2 without.

Andy Peak 1 13/Sep/12 2nd
with Andrew Deckon
jshields 19/Aug/12 Lead
MikeDowsett 19/Aug/12 2nd
Gareth Bowen 14/Jun/12 2nd β

Top is all there.

tchallen99 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 18/May/12 Lead O/S
with Si 2
Hidden 18/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Chi Cheng 13/Sep/11 2nd O/S
SGD 28/Mar/11 Lead

2 cams in the low break. Found this quite sequency, good moves on pinches, pebbles, smears and a mono pocket :)

Hidden 19/Mar/11 TR O/S
llamaglama 19/Mar/11 TR
with Jam
PeteH 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Deserves a star. Some lovely moves at the top. Agree that there's no need (at the given grade) for runners in Heather Wall after the break.

mwatson ??/2011 -
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
chris sm 24/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
tom.e 21/Apr/10 Lead β
Mr Powly 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
JPGR 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Yvette
Pete Graham 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Dorey
gazfellows 14/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 23/Mar/10 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/2010 2nd
felixthelion 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Didn't place gear in heather wall and don't think side runners are really acceptable at the grade. There are bomber cams in the break, which is admittedly quite a long way down once you reach the top move(s), but for E2 i don't think side runners should be allowed. the gear in the break is more than adequate.

with Rob
sasmojo 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Nice route even with the foot popping, at which point I was gripped, all turned out nicely though.

with James W
Neil D 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
BorisVBlade 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/09 2nd
chris sm 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Nice route.

with Pippa Froggatt
AlistairB 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Excellent, shame it's quite eliminate as the climbing is of good quality. Worth at least a star I think.

with Neil R
Neil R 02/Aug/09 2nd
MD 21/Mar/09 2nd
with Misha
Misha 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Robert Besford ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Felix
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
PenJD 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Heather Swift
fizzy_elephant 24/May/08 Lead rpt
with Amy Baker
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd
Hidden 09/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Jamie Light 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Nice finish up the steep slab and arete..

Dom Whillans ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with jamie light
John Lisle ??/2008 -
with Clive
Andrew Barker ??/2008 Lead O/S

Scary, only used gear at the base of the arete, feels more independent that way.

Hidden 08/Oct/07 Lead O/S
tatz45 25/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Oddjob 25/Feb/07 2nd dog

Foot slipped on some lichen. 100% Heart in mouth awesome lead from Andre.

with Andre
donkster ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Ropeboy 19/Nov/06 Lead
Andrew Sloan 12/Nov/06 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Andy, Steve
fizzy_elephant 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Really nice route. Spot the pocket and go and its over in a flash.

with stu
Somerset swede basher 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with John Sargeant
Hidden 15/Apr/06 TR
david morse ?/Apr/06 2nd
with chris todd
mattwyles1 ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Nov/05 Lead O/S
SteveM 16/Apr/05 Lead
with Catt
Tobias at Home ??/2005 Lead O/S

First E2

cem 18/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Gus ??/2002 Lead O/S
with luisa giles
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 TR
with Ben
Hidden ?/Jun/99 TR dog
Hidden 30/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 38
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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