Rockfax Description
A bold slab climb left of Tody's crack. It can be reached via Grip or Tody's itself. The final section is a gripper. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1974

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

Sam O'Rourke 14/Jan Lead
with Dan Cade
Charlotte Nelson 04/Dec/17 2nd
with Luke
Hidden 04/Dec/17 -
Hidden 04/Dec/17 Lead
bencole 12/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Good friction today. Moves felt very steady but certainly grabs your full attention.

charley 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 12/Sep/17 -
Hidden 01/Sep/17 -
Hidden 01/Sep/17 -
harry.morrish 26/Jun/17 Lead O/S

first E2!!

lucybradbury 26/Jun/17 2nd
The Reaper 20/Jun/17 TR O/S

Shunt. From the ledge only.

Hidden 07/Jun/17 -
tyho 11/May/17 Lead O/S
with ecp8
Davidchatterton 06/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with heyhoot
Hidden 06/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Gambit 30/Mar/17 2nd O/S

Liked it, looking forward to leading it

Andy Taylor 15/Mar/17 Lead
Hidden 03/Feb/17 -
greed178 ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 01/Nov/16 -
Hidden 25/Oct/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Oct/16 -
Hidden 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Katsmiff 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S

One tricky move. Not much gear if you don't place side runners.

The old James turnbull 03/Aug/16 -
with aiden
Col Kingshott 03/Aug/16 2nd
James Oswald 08/Jul/16 Lead
Mr. K 08/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/16 -
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead
scarmichael 30/May/16 Lead O/S

final sequence took a bit to work out but brilliant route!

MJLangley 30/May/16 2nd
Francois R 14/May/16 Lead

6a. Gets harder towards the top. Slipped on my foot and fell 20cm before reaching the top. The last cam worked well but I hit the ground after being slowed down by the rope just below the ledge. The cause being the rope was too thin for the belay device and Jason got both hands burnt by the rope. Hence the rope got slack again as I was around 3m above the ground. 5 star mountain rescue! Thanks to all who helped!

with Jason
tomwright1509 07/May/16 Lead O/S
Teappleby 21/Apr/16 Lead

A nice little route. Really nice evening, summer evening but not too hot. I was so happy just cruising classics all evening!

ninastirrup 21/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/16 -
Hidden 10/Apr/16 TR
Hidden 05/Sep/15 TR O/S
Eagertom 16/Aug/15 2nd

E2 clearly comes from lack of gear - I think this is mentioned in the guidebook. The moves up to the multiple cam placements are straightforward, and whilst the crux is both high and unprotectable, it's also totally manageable.

Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 09/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Bern, Tony
JendeHoxar 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Mike
MichaelGallimore 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Ian Clare ?/Jul/15 Lead
Sam McCarthy 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

very scary, took a while to commit.

Hidden 17/May/15 Lead O/S
Flavio 16/May/15 Lead O/S
MSchobitz 28/Apr/15 Lead O/S


Coel Hellier 14/Apr/15 Lead
Nick1812P 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Jake
pete1993 11/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Bernie, Nick
ned_85 11/Apr/15 Lead
with Ryan Baird
bigdrew 05/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Dunc Frish, Ian Milward
FelixJT ??/2015 Lead
with alex brighton
a_radiohead_fan ??/2015 Lead O/S
cem 26/Oct/14 Lead rpt
rurp 26/Oct/14 TR rpt

Tricky for Ben in the cold wind, great effort

with ben rowland
nclarey 26/Oct/14 2nd O/S
ashtond6 19/Oct/14 2nd rpt
DaveB61 05/Oct/14 2nd
jshields 05/Oct/14 Lead


mat cooper ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jing 20/Jul/14 TR dog

With helpful belay.

Hidden 20/Jul/14 TR dog
Hidden 05/May/14 2nd
Fragmod 16/Apr/14 Lead
WillDoyle 01/Apr/14 Solo
robw007 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S
CharlieMack 19/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Ash
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd
mark4344 05/Mar/14 TR
with Matt Payne
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
phillipwright ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
the power 22/Dec/13 2nd

with todys start

with Andy, deacon
Andy Peak 1 22/Dec/13 Lead
Jim Slater 15/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Felt fairly straightforward to me, no harder than Motorcade.

amccann 04/Dec/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/13 Lead dnf
dannyboy83 26/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Floris
Tom Peeper 06/Oct/13 Lead
Stroppy 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Fidmark 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S

first taste of trad! lead next time hopefully

Bertbee 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

First E2 - absolutely brilliant, and felt totally untroubled. Get in!

RKirke 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 29/Sep/13 Lead
Stefan_Morris 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with jenny
alp79 07/Sep/13 2nd O/S
ashtond6 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S

side runner, E1?

Gudge 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
cem 21/Aug/13 2nd rpt
JimboWizbo 18/Aug/13 TR O/S

With a view to lead. No problems but wasn't feeling the lead today.

with Beth
Hidden 01/Aug/13 -
Prof. Outdoors 30/Jun/13 TR
with Lorna
Cat G 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Committing last move, involving a precariously placed high left foot. Best trad lead to date and strangely enjoyable.

Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 17/May/13 2nd
Graeme Hammond 17/May/13 Lead O/S

started via Tody's wall, a good combination

with David Fisher
rurp 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

from todys, great contrast

Hidden 28/Apr/13 Solo dnf
sparkass 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
stuart34 07/Apr/13 2nd
with duncan
tcn_2002 16/Feb/13 2nd
with Ian Faulkner
sgl0jd 16/Feb/13 -
ian d f 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Tom C, Pete H
Hidden 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
JdotP 05/Jan/13 2nd O/S

Accessed via Tody's wall.

with Mr Sparkles
Roberttaylor 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Started up Todys. First E2.

with Tom e
The Big Sender 05/Jan/13 2nd O/S
saffy ??/2013 -
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Lead O/S
Wayne S 02/Dec/12 Lead β
with saffy
saffy 02/Dec/12 2nd
with Wayne S
pastep 11/Nov/12 Lead

Seconded it first. Would be a bold onsight.

with Will242
ebf 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Beautiful climb on a perfect slab. Very run out but without an obvious crux move, so easy to keep going as long as you keep calm!

minT(HUN) 11/Nov/12 TR O/S

Shame i didnt have time climbing onsight! always carry a headtorch!!! ;)

with Paul Stephenson
victim of mathematics 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Exciting, but never terrifying. Balancy moves between good pockets. Ace.

James Oswald 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Nice climbing

with Colin Angus
bencoope 21/Oct/12 AltLd
rocktigger 17/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Clare
Fragmod 05/Aug/12 2nd
SGD 21/Jul/12 Lead

brilliant! not as hard as the grip but it a real heart racer at the top. The moves felt more obvious but hard for 5b.

gordonday 12/Jul/12 TR O/S
with clive
Andy Peak 1 07/Jul/12 Lead
with H washbrook
Jay C 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Rosie L
rosieposey14 ?/Jun/12 -
deacondeacon 18/May/12 Lead

up Todys overhang first, have seconded it in the past.

Dave Foster 18/May/12 2nd rpt
with Si 2
Hidden 18/May/12 Lead O/S
jwpil 18/May/12 2nd O/S
with Deacon
pete1993 16/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
tgeh 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S

felt harder than Brown's

with killian
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Aid@n 19/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 13/Feb/12 Lead
david morse 13/Feb/12 2nd rpt
with lole
tonanf ?/Nov/11 AltLd
tuftynick 16/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16/Oct/11 AltLd
with Tufty
Chi Cheng 13/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Alex Thomson 02/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
robman 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with john ayrton
al123 25/May/11 Solo O/S

good fun. also climbed another E2 just right using a pocket as a side pull, felt abit harder than this one.

Dave Foster 22/May/11 Lead O/S

Not too difficult. Although I had a moment at the top when my right foot pinged from a pocket, leading to my right hand pinging from a sloper, leading to a right facing barn door off a left footed smearey left handed slopey crimpey thing... hang on a minute.

with Andy
JHiley 11/May/11 TR
mattorford 11/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/11 Lead O/S
AMarchant 18/Apr/11 Solo O/S

Just as good as Motorcade

disturbed_one51 16/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd dog
M_W_Court 30/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Lev 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
stefie c 23/Mar/11 2nd
thomasadixon 10/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Mike, andy
PeteH 02/Mar/11 2nd O/S
highlux 02/Mar/11 -
with Pete Hart
Bill Lawrence 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S

had a bit of a mental block, was ready to down climb, but managed to compose myself and finish it off, great route

with Bradley Cowley, Guy VG, oaksi2
James Oakes 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
braders94 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Gina_2 ??/2011 2nd
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 06/Nov/10 2nd rpt
with Mark Derby
robinsi197 30/Oct/10 2nd

Oo-er. Glad to be seconding.

with Nick
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Bridgeland
Tomprusk 25/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Nate
Nathanael-Mc 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 22/Oct/10 TR rpt
Tithe Technique 22/Oct/10 TR O/S

With shunt

Hidden 21/Oct/10 TR rpt
Hidden 20/Oct/10 TR rpt
Hidden 19/Oct/10 TR RP
Hannes B 05/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Josh W
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Cake 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Is it E1 if I put a runner in tody's crack from the ledge?

with Matt
Hidden 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
r@bag 29/Aug/10 Lead β


with Sarah Stirling, Bernie, Dom Sellars
Jonathan Hall 07/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
chris sm 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Will_Maxwell 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Carina Topham
Rob Laird 30/Jun/10 2nd O/S
gavster2405 30/Jun/10 2nd
ipegg 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Placed side runners

with Tony Walentowicz, Rob Laird, Gavin Philips
smallerrich 27/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ollie Wragg
donkster 19/May/10 2nd O/S
with mat
zombie_pat 16/May/10 2nd O/S
with Pete
AndyJBooth 15/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 14/Apr/10 Solo
RM199 ??/2010 Lead rpt

With side runner placed off the ledge. Hvs/e1 ish

uphillnow ??/2010 2nd
Drew M ??/2010 Lead
RM199 ??/2010 2nd O/S
jonnybull ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Niiice runout.

felixthelion 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
AlistairB 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Johan
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead β
Si dH 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good route. On the hardest moves, all the best footholds are in the wrong places and the hardest part was forcing myself to use the smears instead so I stayed in balance :oS Lots of gear faff. If you start up Tody's, the friend you want for the rockiover is the same one you want at the base of the final slab...

with Gary
Daniel Wicks 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Siddle
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
mic_b 11/Jun/09 Solo O/S
jsrous 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Oli Burrows, Matt Sharpe
Ollie B 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S

excellent route worth more than the 1 star it gets in the guide

with M.Sharpe
Wood for Trees 09/May/09 Lead O/S

Great route, disappointing to not span for the top, so some scrappy climbing leftwards helped me gain the top, scared Steve a bit. Very similar to motorcade in many respects.

with Steve Ramsden
Ram MkiV 09/May/09 Lead β

after guy and after shunting a friend a bit higher up the crack, cheeky

with Guy & Oli
Hidden 07/May/09 2nd
metal arms 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
London Luke ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with AJ
AJ007 15/Mar/09 2nd
with Dan
Hidden 06/Mar/09 2nd O/S
john lynch 06/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew, rich armour
Lewis Andrew 06/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with John Lynch, Rich Armour
sean0386 ?/Mar/09 TR
Hidden 02/Jan/09 Lead dog
hrgcb ??/2009 Lead O/S

nice balancey mooves abouve solid gear

with Kunal
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
inuklm ??/2009 -
with Henry Close-Brooks
Robert Besford ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Felix
Wayne S ??/2009 2nd
Misha 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
IanJackson 01/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Adam1973
Adam1973 01/Jul/08 2nd O/S
joe larner 20/Jun/08 Lead β
lowersharpnose 12/Jun/08 Lead

Previously seconded Mark on this.

with Danger
Hidden 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/08 Lead
adam carless 05/May/08 TR O/S

I'll definitely be back to lead this, on a high-confidence day!

SecretSquirrel 05/May/08 TR
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Mr Powly 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Pete Graham ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with James Fleming
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Andrew Barker ??/2008 Lead O/S
Dan 85 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with John
Dale Berry 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

First on sight E2.

with Claire Berry
MeMeMe 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S

E2! My mate Nick casually mentioned it as an alternate finish to Tody's Wall, I thought it was a bit stiff!

with Nick
Joe Dove 28/Jul/07 2nd
with kev
cmsg 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S

First E2. Did the Tody's Wall start. Felt fine. Happy.

with Dave Ross
Hidden 14/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/07 2nd O/S
climbingrick 25/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/07 Lead
A Crook 14/Jan/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Dom Whillans ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Dec/06 Lead O/S
david morse 24/Oct/06 Lead
with ric moat
Hidden ?/Oct/06 2nd O/S
Big Steve 17/Jun/06 TR rpt
Hidden 17/Jun/06 TR dog
Somerset swede basher 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with John Sargeant
Hidden 15/Apr/06 2nd
tatz45 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2006 Lead O/S

Date a guess

Boy ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Birdo ??/2006 -
with Dave Bird
John Sergeant ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/05 2nd
LankyPaddy 18/Mar/05 Lead O/S
fizzy_elephant ?/Mar/05 2nd O/S
with stu
UndercoverElephant ??/2005 Lead O/S
cem 18/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
SteveM 10/Jul/04 Lead
with Helen, Regina
Hidden 12/Jun/04 Lead
Apharri ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Theeni ?/Apr/04 2nd
feilx ??/2004 -
bunnikins 11/May/03 TR
with Laurence
r@bag 11/May/03 TR
Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2002 -
Mark Davies PK ??/2002 2nd O/S
Gus ??/2002 Lead O/S
with luisa giles
Hidden 31/Oct/01 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/00 2nd O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 2nd dnf

Ben took fall & sprained ankle so went to pub.

with Ben
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden 22/Nov/98 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/98 Lead rpt
craig h 06/Sep/98 Solo rpt
Chris Ellis 12/Dec/97 2nd
with Martin Veale
Hidden ??/1997 -
Hidden 02/Jun/95 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/94 Lead
Hidden 24/Aug/93 Lead
Chris Reid 24/Jan/93 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
NickJH ??/1993 Lead O/S
craig d ??/1993 -
Hidden 10/May/92 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/91 Lead
Hidden 14/May/91 2nd β
craig h 21/Oct/90 -
AB1965 10/Sep/90 Lead
wbo 01/May/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/90 2nd
Hidden 30/May/89 Lead
phardman 05/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 -
goi.ashmore 30/Sep/87 Solo O/S
sadams 03/Aug/87 Solo
with Guy Townsend
Hidden 01/Aug/87 2nd
Hidden 10/Jun/87 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 21/Nov/86 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/86 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/86 Lead O/S
John Lisle ??/1986 Lead
with AT
Tom V ??/1986 -
Hidden 17/Mar/85 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/84 2nd
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Hammy 17/Jun/82 2nd
with Fai Kwong, Richard West
Hidden 30/Mar/82 Lead
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
Ian Clare ??/1982 -
Hidden 17/Jun/81 Lead
tapley 11/Apr/81 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Solo
Hidden 07/Dec/80 Lead
Hidden 23/Nov/80 TR
Dave Musgrove 16/Aug/80 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1980 Lead
with FMC
Hidden 24/Nov/79 TR
Mark Kemball 28/Oct/79 Lead
with Paul Clark
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 53
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set