UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
The shallow corner has an unhelpful set of sloping, slippery holds and great gear to get going. The upper half is a doddle. Oddly there are easier 5b moves out there - don't you love the grading system! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1948.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , The Gritlist , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District

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User Date Notes
Charlotte Whitmore 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Polish low down
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βeta: Polish low down
catty_9 15 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Felt the huge block on the left part way up shift when I had my fingers in the crack
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βeta: Felt the huge block on the left part way up shift when I had my fingers in the crack
Annaproffitt 23 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Very cool start- a reminder of what smears are. Makes it all the more interesting with numb January hands!
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βeta: Very cool start- a reminder of what smears are. Makes it all the more interesting with numb January hands!
Mutl3y 7 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Went up this one yesterday evening after a fine afternoon of climbering. The start is a bit tricky, but very worthwhile. I find these problems a bit peculiar because you top out half way up but still have to do the rest of it.
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βeta: Went up this one yesterday evening after a fine afternoon of climbering. The start is a bit tricky, but very worthwhile. I find these problems a bit peculiar because you top out half way up but still have to do the rest of it.
SGD 20 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I liked this one a lot. I found the start bloody hard, but thats the point - isn't it? After the hard start it's a nice relaxed climb but...at the top should you step right around the upper block or continue up on the arete?? Also while I was doing this climb a guy soloed 'downhill racer' - very inspiring, I remember looking across and thinking 'what the hell is he standing on?'
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βeta: I liked this one a lot. I found the start bloody hard, but thats the point - isn't it? After the hard start it's a nice relaxed climb but...at the top should you step right around the upper block or continue up on the arete?? Also while I was doing this climb a guy soloed 'downhill racer' - very inspiring, I remember looking across and thinking 'what the hell is he standing on?'
GrahamD 8 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The first 10' of this route are plain blood awkward ! Don't expect to cruise it if its remotely damp.
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βeta: The first 10' of this route are plain blood awkward ! Don't expect to cruise it if its remotely damp.
Monk 13 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The arete boulder problem is only B4. But a goodun!
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βeta: The arete boulder problem is only B4. But a goodun!
Paul Boardman 17 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A bit slippy for a solo... the first few moves being the worst though. I didn't think that this route justified any stars. Yeah, it's quite nice but nothing special. Especially with all the polish.
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βeta: A bit slippy for a solo... the first few moves being the worst though. I didn't think that this route justified any stars. Yeah, it's quite nice but nothing special. Especially with all the polish.
Robo 27 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone tried the boulder problem up the arete right of this route? It's quite hard, especially with polished footholds. Anyone know the grade?
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βeta: Anyone tried the boulder problem up the arete right of this route? It's quite hard, especially with polished footholds. Anyone know the grade?

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 238
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 185
Votes cast 200
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brown's Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Bamford Edge)

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